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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    You can also manage without it. Use a large allen key but turn it only finger tight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 530 ✭✭✭terencemc


    Hi there, I have a canyon nerve mtb from 2011. I got the suspension serviced in 2014 before moving abroad. I have only used the bike once or twice since. I know the official line is to get the bike serviced every year. What are your thoughts on using it again without a service?
    Also someone told me to invert the bike to let the lubricant reapply itself to the pistons - has anyone else heard this?

    Cheers
    [font=Arial, sans-serif]front suspension: Fox Float Evolution RL O/B[/font]

    [font=Arial, sans-serif]rear suspension: Fox Float Performance RP2 BSD[/font]


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭68 lost souls


    dahat wrote: »
    Thanks! It's the pre load tool I need to get.

    To maintain accuracy between shifts I'm guessing a torq wrench should also be used?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,187 ✭✭✭Fian


    Ok so my trusty commuter hybrid - a Trek Valencia, is probably reaching it's sell by date. I know the correct answer is always "get a new bike" but for the purpose of this query lets just put that aside.

    The bike is about 6 years old & has done about 20,000km commuting too and from work. Tends to be left outside alot too, and where I park it nowadays it is exposed to rain/weather - until a year ago or so it was under a roof though.

    In recent days it has developed a sound a bit like a coke can being slowly crushed, which comes from the axle between the pedals where they connect into the frame. (that is the "bottom bracket" right?). I expect that there is a bearing in there that needs lubrication/replacement? The noise is there whether I am pedalling or freewheeling, but it is particularly loud when i am pulling away from lights/starting up.

    I could just drop it in for a service, but honestly I am wondering if it is time to give up the ghost. I figure there are many other bits ready to go soon as well. I think i have replaced the cassette and front rings at some point, so those are not on their last legs. Even so if this were a car when it got to the point that the cost of repairs exceed the value of the car i would just decide to replace it. I don't want to pay a series of €80-€100 repair bills as various pieces of the bike need to be fixed, when the bike itself is presumably worth less than €200 at this stage.

    Am I right to expect that there are inevitably further repairs on the horizon - that the bike has essentially worn down at this stage? Is the sensible / cheaper thing to just replace it? I imagine i would need special tools to get at the bearing myself - assuming that a bearing is the cause of the noise.

    I am quite fond of it, on the other hand I would probably prefer a bike with some faster gearing - this one never ever comes out of the big ring on front (on my flat commute) and tbh that big ring is a bit too small - it is probably 45 teeth or something, less than 50 anyway, despite being a triple. I am thinking it ditch it and get an aluminium road bike instead to use for commuting. I do have a good road bike at home for the weekends. I also have a second aluminium road bike but the back wheel on that needs replacing and that bike is too big for me as well, though i guess it would suffice for commuting. Maybe I could swap a nine speed cassette onto the back wheel of my trek (which is 8 speed - will it take it?) and stick that onto the road bike for commuting.

    Anyway I guess questions are:

    1 - is it a bearing that needs replacing?
    2 - does that job require specialised tools?
    3 - is the bike likely on its last legs anyway? Is replacing cheaper in long run?
    4 - Could I put a 9 speed cassette onto the hub of my back wheel from teh trek? (i do have a cassette tool and chain whip.) Oh just remembered it is a disc back wheel so probably not a runner - can i remove the disc? the aluminium road bike is rim brakes.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,982 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Fian wrote: »
    In recent days it has developed a sound a bit like a coke can being slowly crushed, which comes from the axle between the pedals where they connect into the frame. (that is the "bottom bracket" right?). I expect that there is a bearing in there that needs lubrication/replacement? The noise is there whether I am pedalling or freewheeling, but it is particularly loud when i am pulling away from lights/starting up.
    yes, that part is called the bottom bracket, but if the noise is there when you're not pedalling, it makes it much less likely to be the BB. could be something in the back wheel - i had a couple of instances before where i had noise, more noticeable under pedalling load, which was fixed by dabbing a drop of basic 3-in-1 style oil on each spoke nipple (the little nut which joins the spoke to the rim).
    could also be a spoke about to fail?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,187 ✭✭✭Fian


    yes, that part is called the bottom bracket, but if the noise is there when you're not pedalling, it makes it much less likely to be the BB. could be something in the back wheel - i had a couple of instances before where i had noise, more noticeable under pedalling load, which was fixed by dabbing a drop of basic 3-in-1 style oil on each spoke nipple (the little nut which joins the spoke to the rim).
    could also be a spoke about to fail?

    Hmm, I can see why that makes sense tbh now i think about it. Maybe I am not accurately locating where the sound is coming from, though it certainly sounds like it is coming from the BB. Will throw it up on bike stand and spin the wheels at the weekend, too dark by the time i get home to do it after work. I will also check the tension in the spokes. While i am at it i will finally get around to dropping the wheel off my old road bike in to get fixed, needs a new hub I think and i will definitely not attempt to build a new wheel. thanks for that.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,466 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Should a kmc quick link/power link work with a sram chain? I imagine they do and it connected fine.

    It was only after putting the chain on I found the sram powerlink on the floor.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Should be fine, if the quick link is intended for the same speed chain as you're using it on.

    There may be some exceptions with some fancy stuff, like 11-speed chains (eg: can't use any speed links, or must use the specified one made by the chain manufacturer, or similar), but most stuff works with most other stuff.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,466 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    It's just 10 speed. I intended on using the kmc chain but it was only 110 links. Not sure if bought it new from shop or unused from someone.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,187 ✭✭✭Fian


    Fian wrote: »
    Hmm, I can see why that makes sense tbh now i think about it. Maybe I am not accurately locating where the sound is coming from, though it certainly sounds like it is coming from the BB. Will throw it up on bike stand and spin the wheels at the weekend, too dark by the time i get home to do it after work. I will also check the tension in the spokes. While i am at it i will finally get around to dropping the wheel off my old road bike in to get fixed, needs a new hub I think and i will definitely not attempt to build a new wheel. thanks for that.

    I figured out what the problem was and where the rattle/crunching noise was coming from. Unfortunately i figured it out when the cassette started spinning without engaging the back wheel, on my way into work this morning. Second time this has happened to me this year, bought a new wheel for my old road bike since my previous post.

    So is this the free hub that has failed? Do I need a new wheel or could i get away with a cheaper repair? I am tempted to replace this bike with a cheap road bike to commute on but my wife is really panicked at the idea of me commuting on "a thin skinny bike" though she is fine with me heading off on a road bike at the weekends. I think she thinks a thin bike will give me less protection in traffic. The noise had become louder when freewheeling than when pedalling, still was loudest pulling away from lights though.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,408 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    hoping to buy an evil the following frame in the next month or so. Wondering what i can get away fork wise on it, i know people run 140mm forks with it but im wondering how badly a dual position 160/130 will sit with it? Am i as well off to just put a 140mm fork on it?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,982 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    washed the bike today - chain had a bit of crud on it.
    one thing i have pondered is the benefit of occasionally giving it a good clean, and then taking it off and leaving it soak in some form of motor oil overnight; anyone ever tried this or similar? seems like a reasonable way of getting a reasonably thick lube between the rollers.

    would be a little easier than the molten wax trick mentioned earlier in the thread.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    washed the bike today - chain had a bit of crud on it.
    one thing i have pondered is the benefit of occasionally giving it a good clean, and then taking it off and leaving it soak in some form of motor oil overnight; anyone ever tried this or similar? seems like a reasonable way of getting a reasonably thick lube between the rollers.

    would be a little easier than the molten wax trick mentioned earlier in the thread.

    Any good oil will have excellent capillary action so it will get in between the pins and rollers easy enough. If you leave the chain for a little while after applying the lube then that should give enough time for it to penetrate everywhere.

    Soaking in motor oil means that you would have to clean excess oil off before refitting and I shudder at the thoughts of how much crud it would attract!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    So I've messed up my chain I gave the bike a good clean and degreased the chain and gearset too. I think I did too good a job though on the chain as despite my best efforts it doesn't seen to matter what lubrication I use the chain rusts up at the slighest hint of moisture. I guess I've cleaned away a base protective coating from the chain if there is such a thing? Can it be restored or is the chain bunched?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    It probably can’t be restored, but you can keep using it until it needs to be changed because of normal wear.
    What did you use to clean it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    I don't know the brand off hand but it was a degreaser spray. It looked fantastic when I was finished but the first time it got wet it rusted over.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,982 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I once completely stripped a chain - immersed it in white spirits and re-lubed with nowt more than some ptfe based spray (a few applications, allowing the solvent to dry between each one) and just normal chain oil then. Didn't have any issues with rust after.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    tnegun wrote: »
    I don't know the brand off hand but it was a degreaser spray. It looked fantastic when I was finished but the first time it got wet it rusted over.

    Be careful with some cleaners/degreasers - if they are very acidic or alkaline, they can damage the finish of the chain, but also damage the metallurgy, causing the link-plates to become brittle and crack.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,937 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    tnegun wrote: »
    I don't know the brand off hand but it was a degreaser spray. It looked fantastic when I was finished but the first time it got wet it rusted over.
    Did you relube the chain after degreasing it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Yeah but it was just 3 in 1 oil. It was a tec 7 degreaser, have the chain off now and am soaking it in motor oil as it had gone stiff but think its bunched.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I’m looking to replace a bottom bracket on a mates bike. It’s a Shimano BB71 press fit. We’ll go halves on the tools but I’m unsure which tools I need. Will the one in the link below do the job.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/x-tools-press-fit-bottom-bracket-installer/rp-prod155423

    Also will any removal tool do?

    I haven’t tackled press fit before. Any help appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 454 ✭✭MediaMan


    tnegun wrote: »
    Yeah but it was just 3 in 1 oil. It was a tec 7 degreaser, have the chain off now and am soaking it in motor oil as it had gone stiff but think its bunched.
    I've never used 3-in-1 as a chain lube, but my understanding is that it is too light for that use. I'd suggest using a wet chain lube and that should keep the rust at bay.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Thanks after reading around I have a new chain and some wet lube ordered if the wet lube doesn't save it I will replace it


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,249 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    New 1x11 mtb (still haven't worked out what stupid questions I have about the suspension) - will my road 11 speed quick link work for the chain? Hopefully won't be an issue for a while, but still prefer to carry the appropriate one just in case.

    Is an 11 speed chain an 11 speed chain or are there subtle differences between road/mtb/1x?


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,685 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    New 1x11 mtb (still haven't worked out what stupid questions I have about the suspension) - will my road 11 speed quick link work for the chain? Hopefully won't be an issue for a while, but still prefer to carry the appropriate one just in case.

    Is an 11 speed chain an 11 speed chain or are there subtle differences between road/mtb/1x?

    Don't know about 1x11 MTB but for road chains I've used KMC and SRAM 11 speed quicklinks and found SRAM are far handier to get on, where the KMC needed a tool to get on. For a roadside repair, I've used a 10sp quicklink on an 11sp chain in an emergency which was fine apart from a bit of derailleur rub at the front (not an issue for 1x11). 11 speed quicklinks aren't (supposed to be) re-usable, so I currently carry a spare SRAM 11sp quicklink and 10sp quicklink in my saddle bag.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭ec18


    Thinking of changing the brake levers on my Cross country bike, they're shimano at the minute, is there anything to look out for if looking for new ones? or is it a matter of just swapping them out for new ones?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    washed the bike today - chain had a bit of crud on it.
    one thing i have pondered is the benefit of occasionally giving it a good clean, and then taking it off and leaving it soak in some form of motor oil overnight; anyone ever tried this or similar? seems like a reasonable way of getting a reasonably thick lube between the rollers.

    would be a little easier than the molten wax trick mentioned earlier in the thread.

    I do this often, but with aircraft engine oil, which has a detergent added during manufacture. Chain comes out spotless after soaking overnight. Pity I can't dip the whole bike..


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    I do this often, but with aircraft engine oil, which has a detergent added during manufacture. Chain comes out spotless after soaking overnight. Pity I can't dip the whole bike..

    Car engine oil also has detergents (which is why, since the 1960's, there hasn't been much talk of getting your engine "de-coked"), but (IMHO) car engine oil is too thick (would take too long to drain out, and would still attract dirt afterwards) - is aircraft engine oil thinner than car stuff?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,149 ✭✭✭Joe1919


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Car engine oil also has detergents (which is why, since the 1960's, there hasn't been much talk of getting your engine "de-coked"), but (IMHO) car engine oil is too thick (would take too long to drain out, and would still attract dirt afterwards) - is aircraft engine oil thinner than car stuff?

    Car engine oil mixed with one part oil to 3 parts paraffin/kerosene or diesel seems to work well for me as a wet lube on ordinary metal bikes. However, it can be messy so you need to wipe of excesses with rags and avoid getting on tyres and brakes and rims. It may also not be recommended on carbon frames.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    ec18 wrote: »
    Thinking of changing the brake levers on my Cross country bike, they're shimano at the minute, is there anything to look out for if looking for new ones? or is it a matter of just swapping them out for new ones?

    if you have v brake type set up - pretty sure you can work away with whatever v brake levers you want

    If you have hydraulic / disc brakes:
    One thing to keep in mind is that your Shimano system will be filled with mineral oil. Other systems could be Dot 4 or 5.1 used in Avid, Hope, Formula and various other brakes. Easiest thing would be to stick to Shimano assuming your calipers are Shimano too. If you really had to mix in a non Shimano lever I'm sure you could but prob not worth it.

    Forgive me if I'm overexplaining but you will also prob need to bleed the system if replacing levers although 1/100 chance you'll get away with it.

    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hydraulic-brakes-can-i-mix-up-the-makes-of-calipers-and-levers


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