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Aritech Alarm Internet Dialler

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    So - I mentioned there are two ways -

    here is the slightly more complex to make method - it requires a two transistor circuit board to be made up - but once done you can just plug it into the ABCD keypad terminals like a regular keypad.


    34panu0.jpg


    - it took a lot of trial and error to make it as simplified as this... You would of course need to solder it up on a board to make a permanent installation of it..
    But here is what it looks like when made up on a messy but working prototype breadboard.

    28meb9x.jpg

    :)

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Annnd - the easy way -

    Parts needed are just the One Diode and a couple wires - no transistors.

    The CS350/CD34 uses pins(17&18) - CD72/92 uses different pins (20 & 21)


    Some Important NOTEs: (for the less experienced) The Chip may be upside down on some boards - so count from the edge left of the one with the notch. And watch out for solder going where it shouldn't. Dont do it with the panel powered on.


    Here is a working CD72 setup:
    2j1a1qv.jpg


    You may be able see the diode there - and the DC-DC 12v to 5v converter - the soldering is done at the back to keep it neat.


    Here are the Connections
    6s77vc.jpg

    And the CD72 Connections
    j66255.jpg


    Good luck - let me know how any of you get on who try it... :)

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    Hello Ozmo,

    I've been following this with great interest, and I hope to implement this at home
    on my Aritech CS350 alarm panel.

    I think I'll go for your second option (the more difficult one), because the alarm panel is
    in use under the stairs. And I guess I would need to disconnect all of the connections
    (the bell, the sensors, the power, etc.). And then remove the board to solder the two wires.

    The other option, to just connect with ABCD as if it's another remote keypad - this is
    a much better option for me I think. I want to keep the existing keypad in use and in-situ,
    so this will be sort of 'in parallel'.

    So, I will try to make that breadboard 2-transistor circuit in your picture.
    I found 2N2222A-2N2222 on ebay, I guess they are ok for this purpose?

    3-x-2N2222A-2N2222-NPN-Transistor-0-8A-40V-TO-18

    Thanks.
    Best regards,


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    mrkayak wrote: »
    Hello Ozmo,
    I think I'll go for your second option (the more difficult one), because the alarm panel is in use under the stairs. this is a much better option for me I think....
    So, I will try to make that breadboard 2-transistor circuit in your picture.
    I found 2N2222A-2N2222 on ebay, I guess they are ok for this purpose?

    3-x-2N2222A-2N2222-NPN-Transistor-0-8A-40V-TO-18


    Thats them - but Pretty much any NPN transistor will be fine for this application - the resistors are chosen to keep the power requirements to a minimum.

    I've tried BC109 and 2N2369 - and both work perfectly and can be got from Maplins or Radionics really cheaply - a few cents.

    The resistors are very important to get the right values though - but I've tried to use as many of the same values to make easy buying - you can buy a pack with a selection of resistors works out better than buying singularly.

    Plus you would be surprised the amount of great components you can salvage from an old PC Power Supply - just google the part numbers.
    (Powerful Mosfets and Triacs are especially good finds - can do lots of great stuff with these like relay-less remote Arduino controlled mains light dimmers etc. - but thats for another thread :D )

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    ok thanks.

    The transistors on ebay were 3 for a dollar (free delivery), so that was good enough for me!
    I have a pack of mixed value resistors, so hopefully will have ones of the required values.

    You mentioned somewhere earlier in your parts list, a TTL to RS-232 converter for the Arduino.
    Is that still required for this option..? (I don't see it mentioned anywhere, or in any of the pictures).

    It looks like the breadboard 2-transistor option provides the interface from the
    Arduino TX/RX to the Panel Remote Keypad ABCD. So, I guess the TTL to RS-232 converter
    is not required for this option?

    I've ordered everything else (incl 12V to 5V DC converter to power Arduino from the 12V alarm panel),
    so just need to confirm this one.

    Thanks.


    (btw, here's your original parts list)

    You will need:
    1. Arduino Leonardo or Clone (or Uno/Uno Clone or other 32K device should be ok)
    About $10 on ebay
    2. Ethernet Shield - or clone. Revision 2 (R2) are cheap and prefect.
    About $10 on ebay
    3. TTL to RS232 convertor (Search for "TTL Converter Module MAX3232CSE")
    About $2 on ebay (link)

    p.s. Have you considered a wireless connection for this Arduino application? For me, at least I think it would be handier
    than having to run a cat-5 cable from my router to under the stairs where the alarm panel is located. I saw a post where
    a cheap router (TL-WR702N, around usd25) can be hacked to make a wireless shield to provide a wifi
    connection for the arduino


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    ozmo wrote: »
    So - I mentioned there are two ways -

    here is the slightly more complex to make method - it requires a two transistor circuit board to be made up - but once done you can just plug it into the ABCD keypad terminals like a regular keypad.


    34panu0.jpg


    - it took a lot of trial and error to make it as simplified as this... You would of course need to solder it up on a board to make a permanent installation of it..
    But here is what it looks like when made up on a messy but working prototype breadboard.

    28meb9x.jpg

    :)

    Couple of questions, While I have seen circuits like this before, and I should know more, I have very limited experience building them, (although that looks straightforward) even though I have seen them, I should know and understand more about the design.
    So these probably seem like simple obvious things, few questions.

    I can see A, C and D on the circuit, I'm assuming that B (common GND) is the output of the transistor emitters and the resistor R7 (all the down arrows in the circuits).

    The 5v supply, its just a tap off from the 12v in the second circuit and the horizontal line where it says (slightly less than 5v) is that just where the the 5v power supply is? from my understanding, where it taps off after R6 (10k) wouldn't divide the voltage so the PS must be on the horizontal line (just want to confirm as Im not sure?).

    Could you even use two resistors in parallel at that point to get the voltage division required for 5v and tap off from that? instead of a power supply? would that work? maybe it just complicates things, Im half thinking it might not work for some reason as Im not sure if the voltage would only be at the resistor and not just after it.

    Probably not lastly,
    The circuit diagrams shows 6 resistors R1-7 (less R4), 4* 4.7k, 1*22k, 1*10k and. But the working example only has 5 resistors (I think there is one hidden in the top left corner of the breadboard beside the transistor and red and black connections. On checking, the 3 blue are 4.7k I think, the other visible one is 10k? there seems to be a resistor missing? Is it somewhere else physically in this example? (ie at the arduino board?)
    edit, is the 22k resistor missing? to the panel?
    Im sure this is my error in misreading the yellow breadboard or how the two diagrams of the circuits overlap on the breadboard, but the breadboard looks different to the circuit diagrams? the 10k resistor seems to be interconnected with the 3 4.7k resistors?. I know I should just go by the circuit diagrams, but I was trying to follow it on the breadboard just to see.

    lastly, is there some size or type of diode to use?? if doing the other circuit?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    cerastes wrote: »
    Couple of questions
    I can see A, C and D on the circuit, I'm assuming that B (common GND) is the output of the transistor emitters and the resistor R7 (all the down arrows in the circuits).

    Correct, Yes
    cerastes wrote: »
    The 5v supply, its just a tap off from the 12v in the second circuit and the horizontal line where it says (slightly less than 5v) is that just where the the 5v power supply is?

    I thought it would be easiest to power the whole circuit off 12v rather than have two power supplies. That text is just comment label that if you measure it it should be 5v at that point.

    cerastes wrote: »
    Could you even use two resistors in parallel at that point to get the voltage division required for 5v and tap off from that? instead of a power supply? would that work?

    As you do say - not at that point - as when Q2 switches on - the voltage level at that point (ArdRx) will go to 0v.

    But it would be possible to create a second one in parallel as you suggest - however the resistors could get very hot as they would have to dump 7 volts of the 12volts out as heat. Same problem with the cheap 7805(or equivalent) chip built into the arduino - wastes power - The DC-DC board is great and doesnt have this problem.

    But - do not power the Arduino via the 5v And plug in the USB at the same time. Dont think that would be so good for the Arduino.

    cerastes wrote: »
    The circuit diagrams shows 6 resistors R1-7 (less R4), 4* 4.7k, 1*22k, 1*10k there seems to be a resistor missing?
    I know I should just go by the circuit diagrams, but I was trying to follow it on the breadboard just to see.

    Oh - well spotted - R7 has gone awol since I removed it from the panel - consider the breadboard photo for illustration only - it should be much neater - I had planned to soldering it up on this cool shield - the circuit is the guide to follow.

    41HMS2TdNPL.jpg
    cerastes wrote: »
    lastly, is there some size or type of diode to use?? if doing the other circuit?
    Standard diode IN4002 is fine.



    Also - about R4 not being required in the circuit - R4 was the resistance of the Alarm Panel in my simulations - its not something you add to the circuit but the circuit has to cope with it once its connected up.

    mhraq9.jpg

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    mrkayak wrote: »
    Is that [TTL to RS-232 converter] still required for this option..? (I don't see it mentioned anywhere, or in any of the pictures).

    Thanks - that part I was hoping to use for the printer interface circuit - but it didn't make the final cut (Voltages it output were all over the place) - So you are correct, not using it.
    mrkayak wrote: »
    p.s. Have you considered a wireless shield for this Arduino application?

    Yes - that would be great alright. I dont have an Arduino wifi shield to test with - but if anyone has one they would like to donate to the project- I can update the code and electronics to support it.... :)

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Updated code in Github -

    https://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleAritechArduinoRKP

    Moved all configuration to the main page - so easier to edit stuff like IP's and Email address etc from the standard Arduino IDE - and also tweeked it to run faster.
    The yellow light on the Arduino will now flicker if its sending correctly (each message it sends to the panel)- so you will know if its working by looking at it.

    The CD72 and CD34 have very slightly different protocol - code is fixed now so it works well and supports both.

    I also managed to pickup a CD91 to test - and the diode trick does Not work with this panel - you need make the ABCD interface.

    About the Quick set buttons - I don't have one of these keypads to test and see what codes it sends.
    The two keypads I have are like the photo I posted above and the down-down and up-up "show open zones" and "inhibits menu" on works ok.


    Also - I don't have a real CS350 to test - but I believe its basically an updated CD34 - so should work - I'm interested in knowing how you get on....

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    I've ordered all the parts last week.. so it will be at least another few weeks before I can try this and give you any feedback


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  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    ok, I've got all the bits an pieces ... so hopefully will have a go at making this over the next few days


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    ok, I"ve made the breadboard circuit (ABCD) keypad.

    Then I downloaded SW from Git.
    Got compile error, due to missing sha1, base64.

    So, I downloaded these and added them to the library.
    Got past those errors, but now getting compile errors:


    Any ideas? I guess it's the wrong sha1.cpp or sha1.h

    (sorry I can't paste anything, since I'm a new user)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Its probably you havnt the board selected in the IDE - but follow this and check off everything.


    >ok, I"ve made the breadboard circuit (ABCD) keypad.
    grand - double check the wires before connecting up - should be 5volts max going to the arduino if you measure it before you connect it.

    >I downloaded SW from Git.
    > Added them to the library.

    ok - you should put all the library files into a folder - 9 files.
    <Arduino IDE>\libraries\CastleRKP\
      Config.h
      Log.cpp            Log.h
      RKP.cpp            RKP.h
      SMTP.cpp          MTP.h
      WebSocket.cpp  WebSocket.h
    

    The 10th file goes where you arduino projects go - it Must be in a directory called the same as the .ino file.
    There Must be none of the library files in here.
    C:\Projects\Arduino\MyCode\CastleAritechArduinoRKP
            CastleAritechArduinoRKP.ino
    

    *To pick up the library you must close and restart Arduino IDE


    *Then double click on the
    CastleAritechArduinoRKP.ino
    to launch the Arduino IDE


    Choose the board you purchased - I use Leonardo.

    and press the Check code (tick) button....

    If there is an error - just past the text of the error - bit in red - just the error will be enough.

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    ok, I downloaded WebService library and included that.
    Now everything compiles and uploads without any errors.

    I can bring up the arduino web server at [my ip]:8383

    So, looking good so far.

    Next I need to connect my breadboard circuit to my aritech alarm panel.

    That's a bit tricky as the router (for the ethernet connection) is quite far
    away from the alarm panel.

    So, I guess connect arduino to the router, and then run a 6-core alarm
    cable from arduino to the alarm panel.
    4 wires for the ABCD, and the other 2 to power the arduino.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    mrkayak wrote: »
    So, I guess connect arduino to the router, and then run a 6-core alarm
    cable


    4 wires are fine - A is 12v and B is ground

    edit: oh unless you are putting the 5v in the panel and running 5v with the 4 wires? Usually best to have the 5v supply wires short if possible - more stable.

    Just Remember - really important or the arduino might not like it - mentioned it already - don't power with 5v And plug in a USB plug at the same time!
    You can have power going to 9v(sometimes labeled VIn) and be usb connected but not the 5v and usb connected.

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    so, I have six wires from my breadboard:
    ABCD, ARD-TX, ARD-RX

    My router is around 14 meter cable-run from the alarm panel.
    So, either I run an ethernet cable (cat-5) to the alarm panel, and locate the arduino beside the alarm panel.

    Or, I have the arduino at the router, and then run the ABCD wires to the alarm panel.

    I guess I can take +12V, and 0V from the ABCD (on the breadboard) and connect them to the input of
    the DC converter. Then connect the output of the DC converter to the +5V and 0V to power the arduino.

    In this case the cable-run for my "remote keypad" would be 14 meters, but the 5v connection to
    power the arduino would be short.

    Does that make sense?

    BTW, 15 meters of 4-core alarm cable delivered is around 12 euro (ebay).
    For around 17 euro, I can get a TL-WR702N and make a homemade wireless shield for the arduino.

    So, I think that sounds like the best option.
    The cable run from router to alarm panel is across the front hallway ... so it would have to go
    up and down and around two door frames. I could do it reasonably neat, but for a few euros more
    the wireless option might be the better choice.

    Any comments welcome!

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    mrkayak wrote: »
    In this case the cable-run for my "remote keypad" would be 14 meters, but the 5v connection to
    power the arduino would be short.

    I have ethernet to the alarm box - and the arduino and power are all inside the existing alarm cabinet. I was lucky and was able hide the ethernet cables in the wall.





    Interesting idea with the wifi unit - I see from articles its 5v powered so you could power it from the same supply rather than require more power sockets. Maybe Arduino Wifi parts will come down in price eventually.


    Maybe something could be done with 2 of these (1 euro each) and a second arduino. Good bit of coding required though.
    link to NRF24L01 Wireless Module
    Alarm Panel ---> arduino--> NRF24L01 ---(wireless)----> NRF24L01 -->arduino --> Ethernet card --> Router ??

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    looking at manual for aritech cs350, each remote keypad has a dip switch
    to set the ID of the keypad. One keypad has to have ID1 (all 4 switches on DIP = off)
    Did you have any issue adding the Arduino ABCD 'keypad', since it has
    no dip switch to set the ID?

    Did you keep your original keypad connected, and add the Arduino keypad
    as a second keypad?

    I'm planning to connect the 4 wires from my Arduino keypad
    ABCD to 12,13,14,15 on the Aritech panel.
    My existing keypad (CD3008) is wired to the same 12,13,14,15.

    Acc to the manual they can be connected (upto 4) in a star,
    or multi drop (connected in parallel).

    Also, it seems you need to select the 'install remote' option on the screen..
    the display shows the connected keypad(s), and you confirm the new one.

    You didn't mention any of this in your notes..
    I wonder is that because your alarm panel and keypad are much different..?

    thanks

    also, just for testing I'm planning to connect like this:

    Breadboard alarm Panel
    A, B, C,D -> 12,13,14,15

    Breadboard Arduino
    Ard-Tx, Ard-Rx -> Tx, Rx

    Arduino
    Ethernet -> router
    USB -> laptop (this will also power the arduino)

    This is just to make sure everything is working ok.
    I plan to use the DC converter to power the arduino from
    the alarm panel - but not til I get everything up and running
    and working correctly first.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    mrkayak wrote: »
    .

    Yes - Exactly as you say - I just mentioned you install the keypad as normal - maybe should have mentioned this involves as you say using the "Install RKP" menu. You can tap into the 4 wires anywhere - panel or at an existing RKP. I could update the code readme with any issues you come across.

    The ID is set in the config file - its set to be the Second RKP - but change it as needed.


    PM me a photo or url to the breadboard you made up and I can visually check it if you like. Before connecting to Arduino check voltages going to Arduino RX and TX - should be under 5v.


    Just a note to stop annoying the Neighbours - if the Alarm Panel is Disarmed - and you remove or reset the Arduino - you will get an RKP Fault as the panel notices the RKP has disappeared and the sirens will sound - you can avoid the Alarm going off by entering anywhere in the Engineer menus while you disconnect/reset/recompile on the Arduino. To remove the Arduino permanently just do the Install RKP thing with no Arduino present.

    (You can also electrically disable the sirens or mess with the outputs menu - but the above is easier)

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    ok, I've connected breadboard ABCD to the terminals on my existing keypad
    (I entered engineer mode before removing front cover of keypad)

    As soon as I connect my one, the existing keypad resets and then just displays:
    1.4 -=- 1994 (also the amber led (!) lights up on the keypad)

    pressing any combination of buttons on the keypad doesn't seem to do anything.
    Until I disconnect, and then the keypad goes back to normal again.

    Arduino is up and running, and I can browse to [my ip]:8383.
    though the keys aren't echoed on the screen when I press them, so I guess
    the communication between Arduino and panel is not right somewhere.

    I tried reboot/restart/reload Arduino, but doesn't seem to make any difference.

    I noticed in the code (RKP.cpp)
    mdevID=-1;

    Should this be a number for the ID of the keypad?
    The existing one is off-off-off-off

    Also, is it necessary to to define the new keypad in the engineering menu *before* connecting it?

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    If arduino is disconnected and only abcd connected to breAdboard, then keypad does double reset.

    If ab and panel Rx connected, then keypad does double reset.

    If a and b and panel Tx connected, then no problem.

    This is without any connection at all to arduino.

    Only when panel Rx connected to breadboard, then keypad does double reset

    So does that mean there's something wrong with the panel Rx, Ard Tx circuit?

    On your setup, can you have just abcd breadboard connected to keypad (no arduino at all). Does that work for you without keypad double reset?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    That is correct - the TX Off state (Arduino not transmitting) is 5V - so with the Arduino missing - the ArdTX to the circuit is 0v - which sends a High 12+ voltage to the panel - this prevents the real keypad from transmitting until the Arduino is replaced (or you connect the circuit ArdTX to 5v).

    Attached is my test panel with the breadboard - the yellow Leonardo Led flashes each time a packet is sent (3 or so a second)

    mucq3m.jpg

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Congratulations to mrkayak who PMed me to say he got the above working as well on an Aritech CS350 :D

    “Roll it back”



  • Registered Users Posts: 32 mrkayak


    ozmo wrote: »
    Congratulations to mrkayak who PMed me to say he got the above working as well on an Aritech CS350 :D


    Many thanks to Ozmo for all your help.
    It was my first breadboard circuit, and first time with Arduino.

    Hoping to make this wireless too - I've ordered TL-WR702N.


  • Registered Users Posts: 174 ✭✭maurice1


    Well done Ozzo, looks good.
    I did something similar 2 years ago with aritech 10 zone panel cs450 and has been working fine since
    I Connected the 16 input/outputs through resistors into the leonardo arduino inputs, Think they were 1k
    eg:
    int input0 = 0; //D0 GREE Armed/UnArmed
    int input1 = 1; //D1 YELL Alarm
    int input2 = 2; //D2 BLUE P.A.
    int input3 = 3; //D3 ORNG FIRE
    int input4 = 5; //D5 RED Internal Siren
    int input5 = 7; //D7 BLCK Ext Bell
    int input6 = 10; //D10 WHT Doorbell
    int input7 = 11 ; //D11 BRN OR testswitch for input0
    int Led1 = 13;
    int analog0 = A0; //A0 W/O Entry/exit
    int analog1 = A1; //A1 O/W Hall+lounge
    int analog2 = A2; //A2 W/B Cloak+Laundry
    int analog3 = A3; //A3 B/W Patio+Kit
    int analog4 = A4; //A4 W/G Bed123+enS
    int analog5 = A5; //A5 G/W Bed4+Bath
    int analog6 = A8; //D6 W/B PIR Hall+Kit
    int analog7 = A9; //D8 B/W PIR Patio

    When their values changed providing input 0 was low (armed) it sent an email from smtp.upcmail.ie to me@eircom.net.
    This seemed to work fine for a week or 2 but then forgot to send them.

    I then made it that everytime the hall door opened I got an email so that kept it awake.

    I also bought 100 texts from txtlocal.co.uk for about £5,
    so when outside bell goes on I get a text, showing which sensors are open at the time.
    I also get an email showing every sensors state.

    I prefer your system of just 6 wires, but my system only requires a resistor on the input.

    I ran the ethernet to the panel, as wifi is only another thing to go wrong

    For ease I got a piece of veroboard and mounted the pins on it backwards with a resistor on the inputs and the wiring on it. I nomorenails it to the alarm box with the pins sticking out so it is stationary and the ethernet shield just pushes onto it and the leonardo just pushes onto it.

    Butchered a 1A usb car cigarette adaptor fed from 12v battery to power it up and grounded the negative.

    I coded it so that led13 flashes like a strobe to show that it is alive and when sending an email it goes on for a second or 2. This made it easier to test.

    In engineering mode / output test and i make output 0 low, I can go around the house and test the whole alarm, via eircom emails


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    Some good ideas in that - thanks for sharing them - a setup like that should work on any make of alarm panel. I like the idea of the text alerts.

    Its kinda similar to the first project I listed here allright - it used one wire to the printer port for monitoring the panel status - but it seems very few panels have this printer port.

    The second (4 wire) project gives you full remote access to the panel and engineer menus - lets you set/unset/partset and view the logs etc. I'm using the single diode trick, so no circuit/bread board needed just 2 wires to panel and 2 wires for power
    - I found it very useful last week when I was away and put my mind at ease when I could see why the alarm had gone off. ta.

    ea3z1t.png

    “Roll it back”



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,601 ✭✭✭cerastes


    I've been terribly slow out of the starting blocks, got sidetracked as usual.
    I'll have to re-read the thread and get cracking ordering stuff, I've a voucher for maplins but I think I'll use that for something else as I was looking at their stuff and they seem pricey for items.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 cnijboer


    Dear OZMO,

    great project, i love it for enhancing my CD34 panel with internet access!
    When using your code, i encountered a problem while compiling it. I received
    the following errors:

    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp: In static member function 'static bool RKPClass::loop_PanelMon()':
    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp:105: error: 'Serial1' was not declared in this scope
    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp: In static member function 'static void RKPClass::SendToPanel(int, bool)':
    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp:412: error: 'Serial1' was not declared in this scope
    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp: In static member function 'static void RKPClass::Init(byte)':
    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp:435: error: 'Serial1' was not declared in this scope

    I think something went wrong with the libraries, although i'm not sure what. I'm hoping you're willing to check ;-)

    Best regards from the Netherlands!

    Christiaan


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,826 ✭✭✭ozmo


    cnijboer wrote: »
    D:\arduino_NIEUW\arduino-1.0.2\libraries\CastleRKP\RKP.cpp:435: error: 'Serial1' was not declared in this scope

    Hi, thanks for the comments :D

    I only have a couple "Leonardo" arduino here - I believe the "Uno" arduino does not have "Serial1." - Instead "Serial." is connected to pins 0 and 1 instead.

    So make sure the Leonardo board is selected in the compiler if you are using a Leonardo
    or just rename all "Serial1.xxxx" to "Serial.xxxx" if you are using a UNO- .

    ie. just drop the 1.


    Good luck - and keep us updated on how you get on with the project... :)

    “Roll it back”



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2 cnijboer


    hey Ozmo,

    You were right about the Arduino Uno, i changed the Serial1.xxx in Serial in the library files.
    This did the trick: the system works!! really super. I can connect to my panel online, a CD34 system.

    Now it's time to make a neat system with a PCB connected to Arduino instead of a prototyping breadboard, and put the whole
    system in a box near my router.

    many thanks Ozmo for all the hard work on this project!!

    Best Regards,

    Christiaan


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