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Electric gate keypad type?

  • 14-09-2020 2:26pm
    #1
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭


    Hi All,

    Thanks for all tips/suggestions - very helpful forum.

    Just wondering can anyone identify type of keypad in attached picture. Intercom is Golmar but I can't see anything on keypad.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    Hi All,

    Thanks for all tips/suggestions - very helpful forum.

    Just wondering can anyone identify type of keypad in attached picture. Intercom is Golmar but I can't see anything on keypad.

    Thanks.


    I have never seen it before so I got curious and I found these :


    https://www.google.com/search?q=HFeng+voltage+digital+keypads&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk01G6gulHZx2lkqhsDYTYl7mjPJw7A:1600107062467&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBhb6on-nrAhWQShUIHfa8AHsQ_AUoAXoECAsQAw&biw=1280&bih=607


  • #3
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    Thanks kub. They look like contenders!

    This is a replacement keypad - I had my gates set to manual for ages and now when I try and return to electric mode it's not working - they are swing type gates but I notice that one 'hinge' does not fit fully on gate on closure so it's hard to use over-ride key on that side. The other side is not a problem.

    When I eventually get it to close and lock it the keypad flashes red when code is used but gate won't open. Is there anything I can check myself to rectify?

    Apologies as I may not be capturing enough details.


  • #4
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    Thanks kub. They look like contenders!

    This is a replacement keypad - I had my gates set to manual for ages and now when I try and return to electric mode it's not working - they are swing type gates but I notice that one 'hinge' does not fit fully on gate on closure so it's hard to use over-ride key on that side. The other side is not a problem.

    When I eventually get it to close and lock it the keypad flashes red when code is used but gate won't open. Is there anything I can check myself to rectify?

    Apologies as I may not be capturing enough details.


    Are you using the keypad to electronically open the gate ?


    Usually a red light on a keypad means there is a code error, have you any other means of electronically opening the gates ?


  • #5
    irishfire
    Registered Users Posts: 93 ✭✭irishfire


    Prastel EasyBKA (or other suitable knock-off)

    Particularly horrible bit of kit that appeared on standalone gates/barriers for a while here but seem to be gone from new installs recently thank God

    Water gets in behind buttons and it will either select the wrong number, not register a keypress, or spasm and lockout on tamper indefinitely, replace, rinse and repeat every 2-4 years as far as I can tell with them

    Do yourself a favour and replace it with an ACT/Vanderbilt or GSD keypad (or have it done by someone else).

    If it's a genuine one, you can cut the moulded cable off the back of that keypad and reuse it to save running a new cable up for the replacement keypad if it's an awkward run.


  • #6
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    irishfire wrote: »
    Prastel EasyBKA (or other suitable knock-off)

    Particularly horrible bit of kit that appeared on standalone gates/barriers for a while here but seem to be gone from new installs recently thank God

    Water gets in behind buttons and it will either select the wrong number, not register a keypress, or spasm and lockout on tamper indefinitely, replace, rinse and repeat every 2-4 years as far as I can tell with them

    Do yourself a favour and replace it with an ACT/Vanderbilt or GSD keypad (or have it done by someone else).

    If it's a genuine one, you can cut the moulded cable off the back of that keypad and reuse it to save running a new cable up for the replacement keypad if it's an awkward run.

    Thanks irishfire for support. I will look into replacing - it's as mentioned about 3 years old and installer charged me €150 to supply+install. It's the last time I'll be dealing with him.

    In reply to @kub - I tried to open gates from inside at intercom but that does not work either. When I key in correct keypad code it moves to green and then back to flashing red. As mentioned the RHS gate is a bit awkward to connect to hinge - image attached with hinge I'm referring to. The LHS one clicks straight in and once in close position it cannot be manually moved without over ride key. I hope I'm explaining myself correctly!


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  • #7
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    irishfire wrote: »
    Prastel EasyBKA (or other suitable knock-off)

    Particularly horrible bit of kit that appeared on standalone gates/barriers for a while here but seem to be gone from new installs recently thank God

    Water gets in behind buttons and it will either select the wrong number, not register a keypress, or spasm and lockout on tamper indefinitely, replace, rinse and repeat every 2-4 years as far as I can tell with them

    Do yourself a favour and replace it with an ACT/Vanderbilt or GSD keypad (or have it done by someone else).

    If it's a genuine one, you can cut the moulded cable off the back of that keypad and reuse it to save running a new cable up for the replacement keypad if it's an awkward run.

    They certainly have that poor quality appearance alright, agreed about the Act 5, GSD or HKC standalone


  • #8
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    Thanks irishfire for support. I will look into replacing - it's as mentioned about 3 years old and installer charged me €150 to supply+install. It's the last time I'll be dealing with him.

    In reply to @kub - I tried to open gates from inside at intercom but that does not work either. When I key in correct keypad code it moves to green and then back to flashing red. As mentioned the RHS gate is a bit awkward to connect to hinge - image attached with hinge I'm referring to. The LHS one clicks straight in and once in close position it cannot be manually moved without over ride key. I hope I'm explaining myself correctly!

    With regard to the one you attached, did you try twisting the manual override in the opposite direction once you had them aligned ?
    Sometimes the springs fail on them.


  • #9
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    kub wrote: »
    With regard to the one you attached, did you try twisting the manual override in the opposite direction once you had them aligned ?
    Sometimes the springs fail on them.

    Hi kub - so that would be anti-clockwise you want me to turn it as it's the RHS gate looking in?


  • #10
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    Is there a single unit that can replace both seperate keypad + intercom (Golmar) that you can recommend or is it best to leave them seperate. Just thinking this while I'd be replacing that keypad.

    Is wiring an issue here? It's a golmar handset in kitchen to answer call from intercom. Thanks.


  • #11
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    Hi kub - so that would be anti-clockwise you want me to turn it as it's the RHS gate looking in?

    Yes that one, as in the one that is not clicking in for you.
    Is the shoe, ie the metallic part perfectly aligned and parallel with the gate when you are trying to re engage it ?


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  • #12
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    kub wrote: »
    Yes that one, as in the one that is not clicking in for you.
    Is the shoe, ie the metallic part perfectly aligned and parallel with the gate when you are trying to re engage it ?

    The issue with shoe is when I pull gate back and it meets middle metal stopper - it's not alligned - I have to pull it back a bit further to allign it correctly - does this make sense to you?
    I will do that shortly and let you know - what should I be looking out for - anything in particular if it doesn't work.


  • #13
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    The issue with shoe is when I pull gate back and it meets middle metal stopper - it's not alligned - I have to pull it back a bit further to allign it correctly - does this make sense to you?
    I will do that shortly and let you know - what should I be looking out for - anything in particular if it doesn't work.

    Yes the alignment sometimes can be out a little especially if the shoe section is not welded on in a precise parallel way.

    If it does not work then have a look at the locking device and check to see does a lug appear when you put the manual override into the locked position


  • #14
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    kub wrote: »
    Yes the alignment sometimes can be out a little especially if the shoe section is not welded on in a precise parallel way.

    If it does not work then have a look at the locking device and check to see does a lug appear when you put the manual override into the locked position

    I can see the 'lug' - looks like a cog shaped spring when I unlock RHS gate.

    I locked both sides of gate earlier and tried to open electronically from outside keypad - it goes from flashing red, to a beep/constent red and then nothing.

    Just to say with my gates - LHS gate locks automatically once closed. RHS needs over ride key counter clockwise to lock.

    I found out why it's not opening! One of the fuses - .16A has blown - issue is when I replaced it, it blew fuse again - unsure what's causing.


  • #15
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    I can see the 'lug' - looks like a cog shaped spring when I unlock RHS gate.

    I locked both sides of gate earlier and tried to open electronically from outside keypad - it goes from flashing red, to a beep/constent red and then nothing.

    Just to say with my gates - LHS gate locks automatically once closed. RHS needs over ride key counter clockwise to lock.

    I found out why it's not opening! One of the fuses - .16A has blown - issue is when I replaced it, it blew fuse again - unsure what's causing.


    I take it you discovered this fuse on the gate control board.


    Check that board and the area around it for any indication of a recent visit by a slug, but please switch off the power first.
    Check the back of the PCB also for same.


  • #16
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    kub wrote: »
    I take it you discovered this fuse on the gate control board.


    Check that board and the area around it for any indication of a recent visit by a slug, but please switch off the power first.
    Check the back of the PCB also for same.

    Hi kub - looks like you're correct. the board is in a separate box but something got in - can't figure out how! Anyway you'll see from back of board pic there is something after happening. Am I right in saying there isn't even any point in trying to clear it off and testing another fuse?

    The CP is a Gibidi F4 plus - I'm not even sure where to get a replacement one and if it is then a matter of reattaching all wires exactly - advice again appreciated.


  • #17
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    That sir, is a slug after doing his worst.

    If you are handy at soldering you could put a link across the damaged track and hopefully a component onboard the PCB has not been destroyed. Usually the soldering does the trick.

    You could try slug pellets on the ground under the control box, but you would need to keep them maintained regularly.


  • #18
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    kub wrote: »
    That sir, is a slug after doing his worst.

    If you are handy at soldering you could put a link across the damaged track and hopefully a component onboard the PCB has not been destroyed. Usually the soldering does the trick.

    You could try slug pellets on the ground under the control box, but you would need to keep them maintained regularly.

    Thanks. Never used a soldering iron before but could try and take my chances. Failing that is this what I'd be looking for with a replacement kub -
    https://shopsegema.it/en/centrali-cancelli-battente-gibidi/9913748-f4-plus-centrale-di-comando-per-cancelli-a-battenti.html


  • #19
    kub
    Registered Users Posts: 6,528 ✭✭✭kub


    coxy123 wrote: »
    Thanks. Never used a soldering iron before but could try and take my chances. Failing that is this what I'd be looking for with a replacement kub -
    https://shopsegema.it/en/centrali-cancelli-battente-gibidi/9913748-f4-plus-centrale-di-comando-per-cancelli-a-battenti.html


    Contact these lads, they should be able to sort you out :




    https://accesssystems.ie/


  • #20
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    kub wrote: »
    Contact these lads, they should be able to sort you out :




    https://accesssystems.ie/

    I got a quote back very quickly. I will look to doing swap from old to new myself. Kub, if I take down exactly current wiring is there anything else I need to be careful of/take a/c of - thanks for all the tips btw.


  • #21
    coxy123
    Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭coxy123


    Hi,

    Is there a way to troubleshoot why electric gates won't now operate from inside handset 'open gate button' linked to intercom. I can call in to handset from gate end. Thanks.


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