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soild fuel stove advise

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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    Dempo1 wrote: »
    Hi again,

    Unfortunately this was after thought so i don't want to disturb the roof, i was kinda hoping to sit the stove away from the wall, free standing as such so i guess i stuck with the insulated chimney, this said, i noticed you mentioned only the section going through the wall needs to be insulated so perhaps this might keep the cost down. The current quotes are running between €900 and €1,200 and this does not include installing costs but my plumbers a decent chap, thank god! the stove only cost €299, small enough but should do the trick nicely

    I'm as cheap as they come and even I'd pay more than €299 for a stove. But the prices sound about right for the chimney, if you'd have built in a brick chimney you'd still should have lined it so it might not have been as cheap as you think. Main thing really would be to make sure the job is done so if/when your 299euro stove burns out you can easily slip in another, that means the chimney needs installing properly so it is supported correctly and its weight isn't just dumped onto the stove as a support.


  • Registered Users Posts: 26,919 ✭✭✭✭Dempo1


    ttm wrote: »
    I'm as cheap as they come and even I'd pay more than €299 for a stove. But the prices sound about right for the chimney, if you'd have built in a brick chimney you'd still should have lined it so it might not have been as cheap as you think. Main thing really would be to make sure the job is done so if/when your 299euro stove burns out you can easily slip in another, that means the chimney needs installing properly so it is supported correctly and its weight isn't just dumped onto the stove as a support.

    LOL, I Got it at a clearance sale in tullamore, i too was shocked at the price, its a 6kw Mazona, ok there not stanleys but i have seen them in action and fantastic www.superstore.ie

    Is maith an scáthán súil charad.




  • Registered Users Posts: 26,919 ✭✭✭✭Dempo1


    kodak wrote: »
    Hi,

    I got my flue off mi flues in summer hill. They will quote you on flue if you send them a list of flue parts. I think they will also design it for you, if you need it.

    Perhaps you should look at Doherty FLues in the UK. http://www.docherty.co.uk/#Vitmaster

    They are very good products. Not sure about a stockist here thou.. I got some thrown in with my stove, came from england..

    Appreciate the link and advice, i will certainly check them out

    Is maith an scáthán súil charad.




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,664 ✭✭✭makeorbrake


    10-10-20 wrote: »
    Any chimney stack which is made of brick will absorb heat over the duration of the lit period and will mainly release this back into the room over the next few hours....It releases the heat from the fire back into the room over nearly 18 hours.
    Its a fair point but if the heating is needed over a period of 4/5 hours (which would be the norm in my scenario), it would be more beneficial getting it out into the room (and beyond) rather than slowly released over 18 hours. Does that make sense?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Hello all,

    This is a very informative thread but I still find myself getting confused with some of the technical stuff.

    Im interested in getting a solid fuel stove fitted into my sitting room but im not sure what type would suit. It will most likely burn turf.

    My sitting room is 20 x 12

    My fireplace is 16 inches in width, 22 inches in height & the depth is 10 inches. Ill attach some pic's which might explain it better.

    Ill leave it at that for now but I think ill have about 5000 more questions:o


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Old horrible 70s fireplace (YUK)

    Now,same fireplace allmost ready for an inbuilt 8kw casette multi fuel stove.:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭fmcc


    Richard imho I would say an esse 301 insert would be more than sufficient and very little needs to be done to the fireplace. You would need to remove the studs from the brass frame and the frame itself could be sprayed black as some of it will be showing around the edge of the stove.

    Paddy looks good but if siting straight in don't forget to use a high temp plaster around the stove unless your planning to tile or cover the area with something else.
    http://cosystoves.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2009-05-25T05%3A35%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=7


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Thanks Fmcc. Ill look into this type.


  • Registered Users Posts: 619 ✭✭✭SmithySeller


    Have been thinking about a stove myself. My room is quite large, 7.5 x 5.5 x 3metres high. I have the following fireplace, hearth, surround, everything is the same;

    http://www.wrenfireplaces.ie/fireplaces.html

    For a clean install I was thinking of the following (it's right down the bottom of the page, the arched insert);

    http://www.tripp.ie/stoves/products

    but my biggest concern is that 4KW is not enough for the room size. Anyone have any idea? Are there any drawbacks for such a stove compared to freestanding ones?

    Cheers..


  • Registered Users Posts: 938 ✭✭✭Rainbowsend


    Have been thinking about a stove myself. My room is quite large, 7.5 x 5.5 x 3metres high. I have the following fireplace, hearth, surround, everything is the same;

    http://www.wrenfireplaces.ie/fireplaces.html

    For a clean install I was thinking of the following (it's right down the bottom of the page, the arched insert);

    http://www.tripp.ie/stoves/products

    but my biggest concern is that 4KW is not enough for the room size. Anyone have any idea? Are there any drawbacks for such a stove compared to freestanding ones?

    Cheers..

    We installed a stove last winter, and it has been great in fact too warm, our room wouldnt be as big as yours is, maybe 3.5 x 4.5 with normal height ceiling, we installed a 6.8kw and while we wouldnt be closing the door to the room as we are in a bungalow and it heats basically the whole house, we only have the stove and a storage heater in the hallway thats it, even though the winter was abnormally cold we were grand, and the amount of coal we burnt was minimal compared to what we normally burnt, about a quarter I would say.

    Free standing is better than insert, as you would get heat off all the stove not just the front, so a lot of your heat would still be disappearing up the chimney. 8kw would be the recommended size for your room.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭bubbles747


    hi
    just bought a second hand stanley oisin stove hence no manual, i have looked up the stanley website and it does not say wheather the top baffle plate can be removed or how to do it for cleaning the flue, the flue is coming out of the back of the stove, so could anyone tell me how to remove the baffle plate for cleaning as i dont want to force it out and then maybe not get it back in again! thanks!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    bubbles747 wrote: »
    hi
    just bought a second hand stanley oisin stove hence no manual, i have looked up the stanley website and it does not say wheather the top baffle plate can be removed or how to do it for cleaning the flue, the flue is coming out of the back of the stove, so could anyone tell me how to remove the baffle plate for cleaning as i dont want to force it out and then maybe not get it back in again! thanks!

    Can't find the pdf atm but if you download it at the very least you should have a parts diagram (if not download the parts list) which should show you whats in the way. afaik there is a sub baffle bit on each side left and right as you look at it (they often drop off) and you remove these first then its just a lift and twist to get it out. Essentialy the top baffle rests on the firebricks and has a lip to hold them in place.

    Part of the pdf for the stove from the Stanley site should include assembly dissembly and cleaning instructions.

    pdf format Manuals are here and aren't that obvious if you don't know they are there;)

    And the one you want is here


  • Registered Users Posts: 720 ✭✭✭muggyog


    Is it the same as this?
    If so click on the pdf (ttm's link is better quality but this has part numbers).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,045 ✭✭✭ttm


    muggyog wrote: »
    Is it the same as this?
    If so click on the pdf (ttm's link is better quality but this has part numbers).

    Thats the same as page 47 of the Stanleys parts list, interesting to note there is no mention of the "wings" that I thought were on either edge of the top baffle? So essentially Stanleys parts list doesn't include a part the is mentioned in the manual (part # 15a). Just guessing but maybe they don't bother with then on the newer models as they realise they fell off and didn't get replaced?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,156 ✭✭✭cubix


    Lads read through the begining of the post when it first Kicked off but never made the jump. But with cold weather on the way no time like the present. Have included a photo for ref but will more than likely mount the stove on some kind of slab on the floor outside the original fireplace. Then come the wamer weather will disconnect the stove which would leave the room as is in the picture. Before I boarded up the fire place I removed the grate/fire brick & sand. The house is only 10yrs old so I am thinking I will have a round type flue 7-9". So would like to ask what type of pipe work will I need and what is the best way to seal the pipe into the original chimmeny lining. Also the room is approx 7x 3.5mtr with normal ceiling, would a 4KW do this room.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 938 ✭✭✭Rainbowsend


    Cubix....it is not the type of thing you can really take out in the summer, it needs to be permanently secured to the chimney and sealed against smoke leakage, it would be a major messy job to take it out for the summer! You will probably like the look of it when it is installed anyway and that wont arise.

    A 8kw is the size recommended for your size room, but if you are well isulated and the house is not a particularly drafty one, then a 6.8kw will probably do.

    There is an insert that attaches to the chimney liner which has to be sealed and then the flue of the stove fits onto that, not a very difficult job but awkward as space is tight especially when fitting to the chimney.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,156 ✭✭✭cubix


    Thanks Rainbowsend, your probably right. The only thing is if I am going the permanent route I may try to fit a stove that inserts into the wall but dont have much room to play with. The space only measures 16.5 wide x 19.5 high x 13.5 deep(all inchs) as per picture. Could go a little higher if I re-instated opening back to floor but would like to keep floating affect above skirting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 938 ✭✭✭Rainbowsend


    The only thing about the inserts are the loss of heat, you will have three quarters of the stove in the wall, so effectively only having a quarter of the heat face in the room, with a free standing stove all the heat is kept in the room.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,156 ✭✭✭cubix


    Im hearing you RS;) but I think it would take up to much space all year round. With regars to loosing heat due to being inserted do the newer insert stoves not have an air gap(box with in a box) so when the heat radiates out, instead of getting absorbed into the block work it gets push out into the lounge?. Or am I being to optimisitc:rolleyes:


  • Site Banned Posts: 344 ✭✭johneym


    hi Folks,

    sorry for hijacking

    i want to connect up my new stove. I have not done this before but have been quoted 1700 to do it. Cannot afford that so will be doing it myself. This is my plan so far so please correct me and offer any advice.
    I will buy the liner and pull it down to the start of the clay flue opening at the bottom. These old clay flues are held in place by blocks at an angle.
    I will be using the back exit from the stove and will have about a 125 mm pipe out from the stove spigot. Then I need a 90 degree elbow bend on to this. Or perhaps I dont need the pipe at all an can just insert the 90 degree elbow bend into the stove spigot. The stove spigot will be about 200mm from the centre line of the flue?
    I can then pull the flixi liner directly down onto the upper opening of this elbow and seal all with fire cement. I will fill the opening between the liner an flue with rockwoll and fire cement.The fireplace will be bricked in and these bricks will also hold the horizontal pipe coming from the stove back.
    On the roof I will pour down vermicalite outside the liner to secure it and attach the cowl thing to the liner and clay flue.

    How is this?
    Thanks a lot


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  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭buttonsc


    Any clues as to where will I get a 8" to 5" Stainless Steel flue reducer in the greater Dublin area. I have been quoted €120, but they are out of stock, and a couple of other places dont have them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    The only thing about the inserts are the loss of heat, you will have three quarters of the stove in the wall, so effectively only having a quarter of the heat face in the room, with a free standing stove all the heat is kept in the room.

    Insets primarily work on convection. This means they draw cold air under the stove, around the back and then bring that heat out above the door. From what I can gather these "insets" that fit against an open fireplace, but don't require removing the fireback don't do this, so don't get confused. The Clearview inset is up to 5KW heat output as is the Pioneer 400.


  • Registered Users Posts: 189 ✭✭sooty_soupy


    buttonsc wrote: »
    Any clues as to where will I get a 8" to 5" Stainless Steel flue reducer in the greater Dublin area. I have been quoted €120, but they are out of stock, and a couple of other places dont have them.
    If your stove manufacturer needs a 5" flue, then give it one and get the best from the stove. The boy racer with the bloody big exhaust complains that the engine is very heavy on fuel but it sounds good. what do you think a stove that needs a 5" exhaust is going to do with an 8" one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 938 ✭✭✭Rainbowsend


    If your stove manufacturer needs a 5" flue, then give it one and get the best from the stove. The boy racer with the bloody big exhaust complains that the engine is very heavy on fuel but it sounds good. what do you think a stove that needs a 5" exhaust is going to do with an 8" one.

    If you are connecting to a clay liner which are 8" then all that is needed is a 8 to 5" convertor, I got mine from Hopkins & Co in Wicklow town if you ring them they might be able to advise you where to get one in Dublin. You could try Heiton Buckley either.


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 lpm


    Lads the house is approx 10yrs old, would this be a concrete or clay liner or are they all clay. Do I need to run a liner in the chimney or can I just hook the stove directly up to the chimney. Lastly any pointers who's the best for price around the country with regards to a small stove 5-8kw. Looking for one that will burn wood/coal/turf etc.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭buttonsc


    lpm wrote: »
    Lads the house is approx 10yrs old, would this be a concrete or clay liner or are they all clay. Do I need to run a liner in the chimney or can I just hook the stove directly up to the chimney. Lastly any pointers who's the best for price around the country with regards to a small stove 5-8kw. Looking for one that will burn wood/coal/turf etc.

    Thanks

    Waterford Stanley are having their "Heat Week Promotion 16th to 25th October " and have €100 off an Oísin Stove now €399,check their site for stockists. The Oísin stove should suit your needs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 lpm


    Thanks will do, any heads up on the liner query.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Gings home value always had them at that price. Thats where I got mine 2 years ago at that same price.

    http://www.gings.ie/stanley%20offers.htm#stoves


    had it lit last night for the first time since winter.

    I need to reinstall it. I have cracked fire cement around the spigot at the rear. Possible leek . Although the Co2 detector in the room cant detect it even when held close.

    I would rather repair now when is not that cold yet.

    I would recommend the little stove. It has well payed for itself by now. great investment.
    dsc00089jk.th.jpg

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us


  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭buttonsc


    If you are connecting to a clay liner which are 8" then all that is needed is a 8 to 5" convertor, I got mine from Hopkins & Co in Wicklow town if you ring them they might be able to advise you where to get one in Dublin. You could try Heiton Buckley either.
    Thanks..........Will give both a ring in the morning. Hope either will be able to point me in the right direction.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭buttonsc


    If your stove manufacturer needs a 5" flue, then give it one and get the best from the stove. The boy racer with the bloody big exhaust complains that the engine is very heavy on fuel but it sounds good. what do you think a stove that needs a 5" exhaust is going to do with an 8" one.
    I have the 5" flue, it in turn has to connect to an 8" clay liner hence the need of a reducer.
    You have lost me with the reference to the boy racer?????? Makes no sense at all.:confused:


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