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Vanilla are planning an update to the site on April 24th (next Wednesday). It is a major PHP8 update which is expected to boost performance across the site. The site will be down from 7pm and it is expected to take about an hour to complete. We appreciate your patience during the update.
Thanks all.
Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...
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Fixed up a GC I bought for spares years ago. Battery was dead and the region mod switch it's previous owner (or seller) did was a mess.
The switch itself was bodged in, the wires were loose do it was stuck in JPN mode and there was zero slack to resolder anything.
All running now, I'll put this in the man cave, I reckon!
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Found a power supply for a top loader NES I bought from another forum and popped to my parent's to get an RF cable this afternoon.
Turns out on Trinitron sort of supports NTSC over RF! I managed to get a colour image, but couldn't get the sound to work, just static.
Now, no idea if this is the NES or the TV and it's moot, as now I've tested it, I'm gonna order a NES RGB kit
Never done one of those mods before so that should be fun!
I'm waiting on a 3D printed multi-out to come back into stock with little luck, so I might have to drill a hole for an 8 pin DIN connector, or remote the RF unit and widen the RF out hole.0 -
Wayhay! Completed an install of the NESRGB kit in a Twin Famicom! It was a complete pain to remove the PPU because the pin holes are plated through.
Hardest part was removing the PPU. Gave up trying to use a desoldering gun and got out the hotair rework station, 2min later out it popped
one thing I noted, the old composite output not doesn't really work now, maybe I should route the new composite from the NESRGB to the external port? Maybe just fix why its messed up.
Colour pallets are kinda funky, interesting to see. Image is super RGB crisp 0 -
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I'm sure its very easy when you have done it dozens of times which he hasColonel Panic wrote: »Videos like Voultar's make desoldering those through holes look so easy! What desoldering gun do you have? I ended up drilling very neat holes for the outputs/switch, I could have removed the large DIN but wasn't bothered. The Twin has lots of space along the back of it. Let me get some photos up later.
I used this el-cheapo one which was served me well to date. Towards the end of using it I was certain I'd just solder it all back up when I got out the hot air rework station (a very china copy version) and it worked a charm! In saying that, I had 90% of the solder already removed so I'm sure that helped. Tip, if you want to add fresh solder to aid the removal, do so sparingly.
Genius idea, will keep that in the brain for the next time I'm removing a troublesome componentBrownFinger wrote: »I good trick for clearing out through hole solder is flux them and heat them up then quickly blow (with your mouth!) a short sharp blast and it'll blow the solder off onto your work mat!
keep your lips off the iron !
Was playing Mario and other FDS games with a OSSC on a 65" TV - Mario is a super clear pixel'd lad :cool:0 -
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Colonel Panic wrote: »Aye, it's just funny seeing his videos where it's flux, reflow and boom! Not one trace of solder. Any desoldering I've done has been a very stressful experience.
I'm dreading doing it to mine!
Would love to see pics of the mod!
Sorry for the delay - photos, on the Twin the NESRGB is hidden underneath the mainboard
PPU removed and socket installed
NESRGB board wired up
Rear video/audio socket
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When I was about to install that connection I was thinking the same thingColonel Panic wrote: »Oh that's very satisfying looking.
Where did you get audio from? The existing RCA jack? Yup, just from the existing output jack. I did think about doing a pseudo-stereo mod but at the time of researching it looked a little funky (no clear guide on how to, well I couldn't find one) so for now I did keep the L&R channel wiring separate on the 3.5mm jack so I can do it in future without having to touch that socket.
The pallet switcher, it comes with a 3 position toggle switch - kinda want to see if a 4 position switch might be possible as with the way I've it wired, there is no option for 'off'. Might need a rotary switch instead0 -
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True, would save another hole in the case. Just interesting to see how it effects some well known classic games. Super red Mario or pastel orange/red.The Last Bandit wrote: »I didn't bother with the palette switch on my NES when I done it, just picked one I was happy with and left it at that.
Just ordered a rotary knob from aliexpress, will see what that looks like might just leave as is.
Bits also to put a newer HDD in a OG Xbox I've had for many years and RAM to upgrade another OG Xbox to 128mb to see what Sega Chihiro(hacked) games look like.0 -
I started RGB modding my top loader NES this evening by prepping the 3D printed multi out I got from eBay and removing the RF module from the NES.
I'm not very impressed with the 3D printed thingy, the fit isn't great, especially for the AC jack. I stupidly ended up melting the jack trying to reposition it to fit.
So, now I'll need to source another one. Gah!
I don't get why someone who's got access to and prints these things wouldn't get this right. Sorry I left good feedback on eBay based on a rough eyeballing of the product.
Anyway...
My so so soldering
Gutted NES
Figuring out cable routing. I'm gonna use the palette switch simply because the hole is there. And of course, the site of the switch grazes the voltage regulator heat sink when eventhing's installed!
I learned after I'd ordered that the seller was infamous for hot glue assault when selling modded consoles.
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Removing the PPU is a pain in the neck, I followed KeRbDoG's advice but one bit came out with the plated through hole attached.
Thankfully the PPU itself appears to be intact.
I'm hoping the rest goes a bit more smoothly, just seeing how to assemble all the bits right now.
Once I solder in the socket, I'll do a jumper wire to the relevant chip. I've already confirmed via an adjacent via which pins I need to connect.
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I finished up my NESRGB mod this evening and things seem to be working okay, if a little temperamental. Not sure if it's the games/cart slot or my bypassing (the bypass is connected to a chip that does some VRAM addressing magic)
Anyway, troubleshooting further is a job for another day after I clean the cart contacts with IPA and make sure I haven't bridged anything.
Socketing
Bypassing the traces I ruined pulling the PPU. There were two, not one.
Ready to test
3D printed AV out
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Wonder if the top part of those two solder points of the PPU have traces to another point which might not have a good connection which might cause issues you are having?Colonel Panic wrote: »Bypassing the traces I ruined pulling the PPU. There were two, not one.0 -
I've been working on an OG Xbox for the past few weeks, TSOP/BIOS flashing was a pain as it is a Winbond EEPROM.
Plan is to solder in RAM to bring it from 64MB to 128MB so it can run Chihiro arcade XBEs which are modified. I had tried already, but RAM wasn't compatible fun times! Some incoming from AliExpress so will try again. Flashing to the XBlast OS BIOS allows you to test the RAM as you install them 1by1 so will save a lot of head scratching I hope.
Turns out, this Xbox did not want to play ball with IDE->SATA drive interfaces. No idea why not, tried two different types.
Large IDE drive found and installed/setup, need to setup whatever dashboard makes sense to drop into on power on.0 -
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No idea yet, doubt it would be exactly like it, believe those arcade units have additional controller/video PCBs so it wouldn't be a simple 'stick it in the cab' setup. I'd only really want to see the modified XBEs to allow them to run on normal consoles with 128MB installed.BrownFinger wrote: »Is it possible to get a xbox to function exactly like a chihiro ?
As in stick one in your cab and you couldnt tell the difference ?
I could just run these on my other 128MB Xbox, but this 90% a project to see if I can solder in the extra RAM and not break the thing 0 -
Famicom Disk drive mod chip installed allowing the drive to fully write to disks.
Needed to make an adapter to allow the FDSStick connect to the Famicom Sharp's internal drive and also allow the console power the drive.
...and boom! I can re-write a Famicom disk which never worked for me, JAP Super Mario Bros. 2! Now will it work in another drive? No idea, must test
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Join Date:Posts: 49986
Rainy sunday so spent the morning putting Free McBoot on my PS2 system.
Why hadn't I done this already? Well my PS2 is chipped and I was using an old exploit to have a PS1 game launch into the homebrew Elf Launcher.
Had a bit of trouble, the elf launcher I had was very old so couldn't run the Free McBoot install. So had to use the old Elf Launcher to run the new Elf Launcher and then McBoot.
So this means I no longer have to rely on the disk drive of the PS2 to play games.
Was looking through my list of games I've installed on the HDD, the PS2 has not been turned on in ages and there's so many interesting games on the system. I'm eyeing up a playthrough of Breath of Fire: Dragon Quarter which is supposedly a rogue-lite game before rogue-lites were a thing. It was made by a lot of the Dead Rising team so is a game you are meant to die in and restart with improved stats just like Dead Rising.
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Join Date:Posts: 49986
I've been neglecting the PS2 for a long time and it has a really diverse library. I have it on my desk now so hopefully it will get me to give some games a go.
One positive was that I was able to delete a good few games from the HDD as they got re-releases since the last time I turned on the PS2.
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