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A&R Marketplace - Arcade and Retro 3D Printing Service

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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,524 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Green/Black for the legs perhaps.
    I must go hunting for replacement rotors as well, not a 3D printable resource, at least not yet!
    Would you mind running me up a stand for the SMB Game and Watch as well?
    And just PM me the bill including shipping and I will fix you up.
    I'd say the drone community would appreciate a person who can build replacement parts, hopefully I won't come knocking too often repair jobs!
    It's a 3DR Solo drone, I have yet to fly the thing... kinda nervous!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    A few sample prints. Not really retro related apart from the Metal Slug tank.
    Nine tails was printed in clear resin and then hand painted with alcohol inks, the rest are from the printer with supports removed.

    rtGKMDv.jpg

    Uu6c7ES.jpg

    DOAzF4p.jpg

    crLyFsd.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Green/Black for the legs perhaps.
    I must go hunting for replacement rotors as well, not a 3D printable resource, at least not yet!
    Would you mind running me up a stand for the SMB Game and Watch as well?
    And just PM me the bill including shipping and I will fix you up.
    I'd say the drone community would appreciate a person who can build replacement parts, hopefully I won't come knocking too often repair jobs!
    It's a 3DR Solo drone, I have yet to fly the thing... kinda nervous!

    I'll check if i have green in the required material, but i definitely have black. Sure I can include the Game and Watch stand.

    As for the drone, take it slow at first and get the hang of it. Don't be like me and go mental on your first flight. I got DJI's first Phantom drone years ago and didn't read the manual or do much research. I learned my lesson pretty quickly that day :0/


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,524 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Black is absolutely fine.
    I'm hoping to take it on its first flight tomorrow, as soon as I have it all connected, app and all.
    And keep it in open areas too, no chances being taken here!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭Gradius


    Obscure thing, but I'd definitely like to get a set of 4 cps1.5 screw caps, in grey to match the cover.

    These are the little bits of plastic that sit in the screw holes.

    Not a breeze where to get the designs though!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Gradius wrote: »
    Obscure thing, but I'd definitely like to get a set of 4 cps1.5 screw caps, in grey to match the cover.

    These are the little bits of plastic that sit in the screw holes.

    Not a breeze where to get the designs though!

    Have a look on Thingiverse or yeggi.com. Good bit of cps stuff around.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭Gradius


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    Have a look on Thingiverse or yeggi.com. Good bit of cps stuff around.

    No joy, just a bit too obscure I suppose. Some interesting stuff though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Gradius wrote: »
    No joy, just a bit too obscure I suppose. Some interesting stuff though.

    I'd say its only a very basic design that's needed. If you ever feel like it I'm sure you could design it in tinkercad(very basic user friendly 3d design web app).
    https://www.tinkercad.com/

    I mainly use fusion360 and some other more advanced tools, but still load up tinkercad if it's just something super quick and basic I need.

    I designed this X Axis Pulley Idler in tinkercad a few years back. Took about 10 mins using drag and drop basic shapes and the design/3d print is still running on one of my laser cutters.

    OQXMMnj.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,224 ✭✭✭Gradius


    Thanks for the tip :)


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 4,658 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hyzepher


    You think you could print a pinball lockdown bar?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Hyzepher wrote: »
    You think you could print a pinball lockdown bar?

    Do you have the file to print?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,524 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Steve X2 wrote: »
    I'll check if i have green in the required material, but i definitely have black. Sure I can include the Game and Watch stand.

    As for the drone, take it slow at first and get the hang of it. Don't be like me and go mental on your first flight. I got DJI's first Phantom drone years ago and didn't read the manual or do much research. I learned my lesson pretty quickly that day :0/

    Those arrived today and are perfect!
    Thanks again!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    Those arrived today and are perfect!
    Thanks again!

    Good stuff, An Post took their time on this one :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,845 ✭✭✭✭Tom Mann Centuria


    Would anyone have a suggestion where I could get this thing printed? The four section one? My son loves marbles, well tbh I'd love this thing too! And any idea of cost.


    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4429805


    *Appreciate it's not retro so no offence taken at all if this post gets deleted.

    Oh well, give me an easy life and a peaceful death.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    @Steve X2 hey Steve, have you ever done any printing for c64 cart cases? I want to buy an Epxy Fast load cart, but to buy them with a cart shell direct from the UK is working out at nearly 50 euro. Sordan sell them too, but the reset button is located in a different spot to the futurewas8bit versions https://sordan.ie/product/706/epyx-fastload-cartridge-commodore-64-disk--sd2iec-turbo-loader/



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Yes I printed a few C64 and custom C64 cases over the years. Handy enough print if it's just a standard case. Looking at sordans pcb, are you'd looking for a standard case with a hole or something like that just over the reset button?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Exactly Steve yeah, something bog standard but with access to the reset button where they have placed it. That said, it'd prob be a bit of an issue actually being able to reach down to the pcb button, from the top of a case would it?

    On a different note, have you done anything in the area of GPU supports? Ie, the little pillars or bars that are poised on the far end of a gpu? I've a build to start here son enough and there's a chungus 3080Ti smiling at me, daring me to not support it! (they really are massive cards!). I was looking at the online, and it seems a bit of a minefield in terms of retail ones....plus with China now more or less out of the picture due to An Post, maybe 3D Printing one can yield some good results?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I mean I cut just make the hole bigger to allow a finger to fit in (Jesus! 😄). But in all seriousness, if i make the opening too big it might not look great.There's the simple option of making a small hole to allow a button extension to go through the body of the case and touch the button itself, But as i dont have the PCB getting that perfect might be a bit of a job. I've my test printer beside me here in the office and its not in use, i can see if i can extrapolate the pcb dimensions from the image on the sordan site come up with a dummy pcb design.

    I found a C64 custom case I designed in Fusion 360 back at the start of the year. I can't remember what the plan was for it. But i added vents so i must have been thinking of sticking something hot in there.


    As for the GPU support.There's a lot of options out there, from simple to complex. I like the simple "support jack" below. But i don't think it'd go with most peoples case setup.

    Have a look on thingiverse and PrusaPrinters and see if you find a design you like.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    That case looks ideal Steve, barring the vents and potential for a finger sized hole (!). Would it be very hacky if I were to desolder the existing reset switch, and just mount it to the top of the case from the inside (therefore the case would only need a small hole), and just reconnect it to the pcb via some wiring? Are different case colours an option?

    Re the GPU stand, I'll have a look now on those sites Steve, cheers. It'll be an all white build with a tempered glass side, so I really need to find the right look.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    If you're willing to desolder it then you can have the button wherever you think works best. I can just stick whatever size opening you think you'll need. As for colours, basically whatever you like. I just got a new vanilla white from Prusa yesterday that looks well if you're looking for that slightly off white finish(i picked it up to see how it goes with Amiga's and other white and off white retro gear). But I can do most colours so just let me know. The case i posted above is galaxy black prusa plastic which has fine metallic glitter in it. You probably want a solid colour I would imagine?

    Vanilla White:


    Anyway, a quick design and a very quick print and this is what I think the Sordan board will look like in the C64 cart case. I might be off by a millimeter here and there, but it fits the case and i can screw it closed so it must be pretty close. Lots of free(wasted?) space inside. Might need a smaller case.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Steve that's incredible, thanks so much for that. Aye I'd say a smaller "stubby" case would be preferable, however not strictly needed, only if its not too much hassle on the design end.

    I'd say the off white might go quite well with the C64C styling?

    Re the opening, I suppose the handiest thing would be to flip the button 90 degrees, and have it on the "top" of the cart, as opposed to the front if you get me? Might be better for the connectors then too as they're not being pressed down upon each time. Not sure how much work is involved in making that happen though?



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    No problem on the stubby case as its just a quick edit on the sketch in Fusion 360. Do you want it very short, or a bit of free room for cables?

    Smaller than this?




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Steve that looks great, and I think the bit of space for wiring is the way to go yeah. How is the material for making openings in? It's too difficult to calculate the opening required for the button press, so the old fashion Dremel might work if the material is up to it? Slow and steady obv....

    Thanks again Steve, super helpful as always



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    I'd definitely recommend having the hole in place. I have those buttons here and the square base is 6mm x 6mm x 3.5mm. Maybe a small 6x6mm square hole somewhere to allow the button to be placed? But its up to you of course. Those buttons are definitely 6mm x 6mm though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Ah then that's perfect, I thought you'd have to try and extrapolate the size of the button from the Sordan image! Fire ahead with the 6x6 so, I'll prob let half of the metal base of the button protrude from the hold, and try mount the switch into place from there (it'll need to withstand presses, so as much as I'm not a fan of hot glue, it might have to suffice here given what there is to work with?)

    Jusr on the GPU Sag Support front Steve.....there's a lot of mad designs out there. I found one that matches the case AND model GPU I'll be using, but the site is a bit unknown to me, so it could be missing some essential printing info? The file is available to download, and is STL.....but after that I haven't a clue - https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/gpu-bracket-support (there's also no reviews of it which isn't ideal!) Failing that I think I'll have to actually assemble the machine to see what measurements I'm working with, before I choose an adjustable one...



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Sounds like a plan. Now, just let me know where you want the button hole to be.

    Here?

    The GPU stand is an easy print. But, as it'll be in there next to some pretty toasty components I wouldn't do it in PLA plastic as it'd turn to mush and sag pretty quickly. The best material I have is high quality PC(Polycarbonate), but only in Jet Black. PETG might also be ok for the stand, and i have that in quite a few colours and blends. I also have ASA in jet black, thats basically ABS plastic, just a little better.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    Re the switch, would it mount nicely in whatever half of the case houses the pcb? Instead of half and half. That way, the shell can be opened completely without having to worry about wires pulling etc....

    Re the stand, sounds like PETG in the whitest white you have might be an option Steve? Depending on the thermal durability of PETG obviously. I plan to have three front intake fans feeding fresh air in, and the rad will be top mounted pushing heat out, so I'd be hopeful there'd be decent airflow in that area....but then the gpu is going to generate some proper heat at the same time.....hmm



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Could do it like this.


    Then the other side of the cart closes the hole.

    Then if you need to file/sand the opening to make it bigger for some reason it will be easier with less chance of cracking the plastic.


    Edit:

    Could you leave the original button in place and just patch in a new one? Might be easier than unsoldering?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aussel-10Values-Tactile-Momentary-Assortment/dp/B01N67ICEC/



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,425 ✭✭✭Inviere


    @Steve X2 that new image is nigh on perfect, exactly what i had in mind. I suppose I COULD swap in a long leg switch too, good thinking, but I think I prefer the snug/non protruding look of the relocated one as shown in your mock up above.


    What do you reckon on the PETG front for that gpu support? Thermals make it questionable?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,846 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    PETG should be ok in there. I'm not sure I have it in white, but I'll be in the workshop tomorrow and can see what I have there.

    I run a 3090 in my main pc so i know just how hot these things get. With most PLA plastics(the most common stuff used in 3D printing) once the temps get to 45-60c it starts to soften. With PETG your talking around 75-90c and the polycarbonate blend i use(Prusament) is fine until around 110-120c.



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