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My garden Room Build

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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    Looks good. The bare side of the roof is up against the exterior wall I take it? Why not continue the parapet on three sides? Drain all the roof water as opposed to most of it...
    Would the parapet timber have to be a hardwood or commercial strength to withstand year round temperature fluctuations and possible warping? Someone with better experience would know more, they're just the thoughts of an insomniac DIYer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Looks good. The bare side of the roof is up against the exterior wall I take it? Why not continue the parapet on three sides? Drain all the roof water as opposed to most of it...
    Would the parapet timber have to be a hardwood or commercial strength to withstand year round temperature fluctuations and possible warping? Someone with better experience would know more, they're just the thoughts of an insomniac DIYer.

    No, the whole thing is stand alone. Good question about the parapet - I was going to make it of the same as the rest of the joists, anyone here know the answer ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    So, I moved it on a bit.

    I finished the sheeting of the walls, it was quick and easy.
    I orginially order 9mm as I though it would make it easier to put up. TJ didnt have it in stock and only after a bit of moaning from me did they deliver 11mm. It was easy enough to fit anyway.

    I then moved on to putting the vapour barrier - and I am not sure its the right way round !

    Loking at the doeumentation, it seems to be fine. But I'd like to be sure, so I didnt nail it on too firmly.
    Anyone here enlighten me as to how to know ( other than the roll looks the right way round )


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  • Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    By "vapour barrier", do you mean the black-faced stuff?

    If it's on the outside, it's not a vapour barrier, it's a windtight membrane, and the black face goes on the outside. Is it fleece-backed?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    What floor covering have you planned for the exposed porch area? It looks as though it might be a bit vulnerable to the rain.

    It's coming together well. Have you sorted out a spark yet?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Lumen wrote: »
    By "vapour barrier", do you mean the black-faced stuff?

    If it's on the outside, it's not a vapour barrier, it's a windtight membrane, and the black face goes on the outside. Is it fleece-backed?

    Yes, breather membrane sorry. Black on the outside, got it - it made sense that the roll would roll out that way.

    thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    What floor covering have you planned for the exposed porch area? It looks as though it might be a bit vulnerable to the rain.

    It's coming together well. Have you sorted out a spark yet?

    I am going to go with composite decking I think with poly sheeting underneath.

    yes, got a "sparky" thanks - all the stuff ordered from meteor - thanks to Lumen for the heads up


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,033 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    Not even 2A at peak load you'll be fine. I'd say there will be no more than 10A peak from what you have planned. Better to be over spec though as you'll most likely have a coffee machine/kettle possibly a small fridge all followed shortly after by your bed and belongings :D

    The wiring spec is as much (if not more) about the drop over the 55M and not just the load.

    Get an electrician to spec if and dig the trench yourself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    GreeBo wrote: »
    The wiring spec is as much (if not more) about the drop over the 55M and not just the load.

    Get an electrician to spec if and dig the trench yourself.

    I'm well aware of that thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    roof decking on - took me WAYyyyyyy longer than I thought and I really dont know what I was at

    Was going to try make the firring strips myself but in the end decided to drop up to brookes and buy them. The fall isnt as much as I had hoped.

    I bought 75x44 strips thinking they were 4.2m which would have been perfect, but they were 4.8m meaning the drop was 75 to 8-10mm by the time I had cut them down - but its still 1-60 ( by my calcs ) which is enough

    Also for some bizzare reason 1 was a mile out and this through out my calcs by a bit meaning the spaceing doesnt look great but is fine.

    As you can see I put them up across the joists. I am building a cold roof and therefore I did this to increase airflow across the rafters.

    One bit of advice I would give everyone is - if something is in your way stop and take the time to move it rather than being lazy and trying to work around it.
    I spent an age trying to work with the tarp on, it made it very difficult but I was just being lazy

    Otherwise, its not as hard as you might think

    Next, I have to go borrow a ladder and get some help lifting the epdm onto the roof - probably Monday. so any tips welcome !

    hope this is useful to someone.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 45 naraicjul


    Just like to applaud the OP on the excellent work and commentary.

    Do you plan a publishing a breakdown of the costs - I'd imagine that quite a lot of people would like to attempt to emulate your great work?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    yes - I think I have accounted for every screw, stone and stick gone into it so far, but I wont do anything till I have it complete as I dont want to have to re-edit it all the time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,134 ✭✭✭maxamillius


    Ballpark what do you think it’ll end up costing?


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Ballpark what do you think it’ll end up costing?
    My guess would be "more". :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Ballpark what do you think it’ll end up costing?

    I'm at 4.8k now - I still need 1 or 2 electrical bits and pay sparky - c250

    plasterboard and jointing - 150

    skirting board - 100

    laminate flooring - 160

    So a ballpark would be 5.5k


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,134 ✭✭✭maxamillius


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I'm at 4.8k now - I still need 1 or 2 electrical bits and pay sparky - c250

    plasterboard and jointing - 150

    skirting board - 100

    laminate flooring - 160

    So a ballpark would be 5.5k

    Good work, looking forward to seeing the finished product


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,645 ✭✭✭krissovo


    Good work, looking forward to seeing the finished product

    +1 You got me thinking I could build my own:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I'm at 4.8k now - I still need 1 or 2 electrical bits and pay sparky - c250

    plasterboard and jointing - 150

    skirting board - 100

    laminate flooring - 160

    So a ballpark would be 5.5k

    Look what you've got, and you did it yourself!


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,033 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I'm at 4.8k now - I still need 1 or 2 electrical bits and pay sparky - c250

    plasterboard and jointing - 150

    skirting board - 100

    laminate flooring - 160

    So a ballpark would be 5.5k


    Would be interested to see a breakdown when you are done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭Static M.e.


    Just found this great post. Keep the pictures coming please! :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,530 ✭✭✭Car99


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    I'm at 4.8k now - I still need 1 or 2 electrical bits and pay sparky - c250

    plasterboard and jointing - 150

    skirting board - 100

    laminate flooring - 160

    So a ballpark would be 5.5k

    Does 5.5K include tools you had to buy for the project?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    If you put up roughfully how many hours you spent on it also.
    It be great as you'd be amazed at how many would think a trades man would knock up something similar for a couple grand all in "sure it's only a few lengths of 4x2 and some plywood" is what I generally hear.

    Good work by the way looks like your enjoying it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w


    Really interested to see how much all the timber cost


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Car99 wrote: »
    Does 5.5K include tools you had to buy for the project?

    No, I had everything myself already bar a Lidl battery circular saw ( thats caused me more issues than fixed ) - I consider those costs as irrelevant however as they will be used on other projects


  • Registered Users Posts: 185 ✭✭Highcontrast1


    are you doing epdm? where did you get the rubber from locally? i'm attempting a flat roof on a shed but can't decide between rubber for roofs and firestone. hoping to get something locally though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    are you doing epdm? where did you get the rubber from locally? i'm attempting a flat roof on a shed but can't decide between rubber for roofs and firestone. hoping to get something locally though.

    See here : https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=113322076


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    So, I spent a good bit of Sunday and a couple of hours each day this week finishing off the roof.

    Some things to note : Yes EPDM is simple to install but weights a freakin ton - I had to pay a man a pint to help me lift it onto the roof.

    No the metal trims supplied by the company in Baldoyle are not nice not easy to install, and they dont look great imo either. I think they make the decision to use grey fascia ( a fair bit more expensive ) a poor one as the contrast alot.

    I think the answer might be to buy the rubber here and have the "kit" shipped from the UK - they trims can be got the right colour etc.

    The freefoam fascia and soffit are easy enough to install and fit, but a word of warning : the plastic capped nails are a fooking pig as the hammer seems to slip off the head when the nail is about 75% home, and getting them out is painful as there is nothing to use the claw against without damaging the fascia itself as they are soft.

    Anyway - I think we are watertight - and here is the result.
    I have not yet finished the back/gutter end.

    Apologies : I keep meaning to take more photos but I forget !

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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,322 ✭✭✭✭Supercell


    Looking fantastic, I think the grey fascia looks pretty good to be honest.
    With the black roof and timber construction this looks like it could get very warm during the summer, have you plans for ventilation?

    Have a weather station?, why not join the Ireland Weather Network - http://irelandweather.eu/



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,616 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Heavier hammer or firmer hand on the pins for the fasica .


    Looks well. The black will fade away your just noticing it now cos it's new.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Supercell wrote: »
    Looking fantastic, I think the grey fascia looks pretty good to be honest.
    With the black roof and timber construction this looks like it could get very warm during the summer, have you plans for ventilation?

    I had not thought of it to be honest - I may wait to see how air tight I get it first, there may be lots of natural ventilation !

    Its fairly hot out there today and it seems nice and cool though - but there isnt a big door on it yet ! :)


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