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BMW R 1150 GS

2»

Comments

  • #32
    enrique66_35
    Registered Users Posts: 275 ✭✭enrique66_35


    Detritus70 wrote: »
    Well, attempt number one went absolutely nowhere. :D
    ...
    Don't you just love it when you spend hours working and achieved absolutely nothing.
    Ah well, at least the weather was nice.

    As long as you learned something, got some experience working on the bike then I'd say you achieved plenty! ;)


  • #33
    cococoady
    Registered Users Posts: 963 ✭✭✭cococoady


    two wheels good wrote: »
    [EDIT] Correction: The ABS sensor is behind the rear wheel. Parts fiche.
    Zubair's advice is correct.
    Also check for play in final drive. This can upset the sensor gap. But if it's all fine after 5mins riding this is unlikely problem- fortunately!

    Also:
    Normal service resuming after 5mins makes me think is the battery voltage could be low. Put the battery on charge and see if there's any improvement.
    ABS not working could be brushes stuck in ABS unit. Has anyone had a look at it? I don't think it's labour-intensive; cover can be removed with ABS in-situ AFAIK.
    Check that brake light switches are working correctly.

    You could be onto something with the battery alright. A couple of mornings the bike wouldn't start for me but did start later in the afternoon. I took the battery out and connected it to a trickle charger which said it was 80% full. Said I'd top it up to 100% whilst it was out. Couple of days later the bike wouldn't start again in the morning. Connected the charger to it again and it said there was only 20% charge in it. Going to get a new battery and hope that sorts everything.


  • #34
    two wheels good
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    ABS errors are often caused by weak batteries. These colder mornings...
    Consider fitting a trailing power lead to the new battery so that you can connect the charger - and avoid the CanBus current complications on the acc socket.


  • #35
    two wheels good
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    R1150 engine bars; consider yourself lucky if your bars aren't also attached at the gearbox mounting/foot peg hanger.

    Tank removal is easy thanks to QD connectors mostly. Worth replacing the little o-rings sometime at that age. The plastic of the male connectors can become brittle with age, careful handling required. If replacing, usually replaced with brass items.


  • #36
    galwaytt
    Registered Users Posts: 12,751 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Put an Odyssey PC680 battery in it.

    I used to fit them.to very RT and GS I ever had.

    https://www.murraymotorsport.com/extreme-racing-25-dry-cell-battery-pc680?gclid=CjwKCAjwlID8BRAFEiwAnUoK1YojglaiICN0v34XANTB_kJKNnMH2y5jkCBapHaKVbUn0jWhZ20U0BoCcqAQAvD_BwE

    Set up charger directly, forget via the CanBus

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



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  • #37
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Well, finally got around to changing the oil on Mathilda. Got the right tool and it was a doddle.
    I didn't have to entirely remove the tank, just remove the seat, undo one bolt and lift the tank a little.
    The I had enough access to undo the bolts to remove the frame and then proceed with the oil change.
    Put everything back together, started her up and she ran like a bag of sh*te. :D
    After a bit of digging I realised that the throttle cable on the right had come out and wasn't seated correctly. Put it back bike ran beautifully.
    So that's new sparkplugs, air filter, oil and filter. Pumped up the tires (were a bit down) and went for another test drive.
    Bike runs very well, well apart from the still slightly rough feeling gear box or final drive, but that's really not much of an issue and will be addressed later.


  • #38
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    529998.jpg

    529999.jpg

    530000.jpg

    530001.jpg

    530002.jpg


  • #39
    Hotblack Desiato
    Registered Users Posts: 33,832 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Yeah that BMW oil specially pumped out of BMW oilfields by BMW and refined in a BMW refinery then hand-poured into special BMW bottles sure is superior stuff, what would oil companies know about making oil, eh?? :p :pac:

    Life ain't always empty.



  • #40
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Hotblack Desiato wrote: »
    Yeah that BMW oil specially pumped out of BMW oilfields by BMW and refined in a BMW refinery then hand-poured into special BMW bottles sure is superior stuff, what would oil companies know about making oil, eh?? :p :pac:

    Yeah, not going back there again.
    They told me a full service could cost €1000. :eek:


  • #41
    two wheels good
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    Nice condition. Nice colour too.

    I see you have the desirable and rare Touratech side panels.
    Detecting an unseated throttle cable, and the sense of relief is a rite of passage.


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  • #42
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    two wheels good wrote: »
    Nice condition. Nice colour too.

    I see you have the desirable and rare Touratech side panels.
    Detecting an unseated throttle cable, and the sense of relief is a rite of passage.

    The bike is in good condition overall, if one looks closer it becomes clear that this is a bike that has spent some time outside, some metal parts could do with a touch up and some plastic parts are a little faded, but it's a good basis to start with.
    But I can tell you now, this bike is going to be every day transportation for me, it'll never be a polished concourse winner. :D


  • #43
    nigeldaniel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,327 ✭✭✭nigeldaniel


    Detritus70 wrote: »
    Yeah, not going back there again.
    They told me a full service could cost €1000. :eek:

    Yee Gods 1K for a full sere... you could get a fix it upper for that!!!
    I was half thinking of a high miler R800 a while back at Classic Bikes Dublin but with all the travel restriction and hassle, I gave it a miss.

    Dan.



  • #44
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Mini update, weather has been unsuitable for riding here in the Allgäu, we've had a lot of snow.
    But for the past week things have improved and while the mountains are still snow covered, the low lying areas are mostly clear.
    Changed the gearbox and final drive oil yesterday, Motul 75W140 in the box and Motul 80W90 in the final drive.
    After everything I've done the bike does feel smoother than initially, but the oil from the final drive looked like it never had been changed. There was sludge in it and there were a few metal shavings on the drain plug, nothing much.
    It rides fine now, but I will definitely investigate into replacing the final drive crown wheel at some point.
    No pics as there's nothing much to show.

    Next on the list, adjusting valve clearance.


  • #45
    Sir Galahad
    Registered Users Posts: 691 ✭✭✭Sir Galahad


    Great to see an update. Since I posted here last the servo on the brakes failed. It’s a 2005 so not unexpected. Thankfully I was stationary in traffic when it failed. Servo now removed as well as abs and all is well now. Keep us updated.


  • #46
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Sir Galahad wrote: »
    Great to see an update. Since I posted here last the servo on the brakes failed. It’s a 2005 so not unexpected. Thankfully I was stationary in traffic when it failed. Servo now removed as well as abs and all is well now. Keep us updated.

    Sure thing. The ABS in mine is the old, non-servo type. I've heard that the newer ones can be troublesome.
    The problem with mine is that the ABS will quit if your battery isn't 100% fresh and fully charged. That's when you get the alternating blink of doom.
    Drive it for a few km, turn off and on again, all is well.
    But that was to be expected after months in the garage.
    Have to say I'm loving this bike and thankfully nothing has gone wrong with it so far (knock on wood, throw salt over shoulder and clutches lucky rabbit's foot)


  • #47
    Sir Galahad
    Registered Users Posts: 691 ✭✭✭Sir Galahad


    Detritus70 wrote: »
    Sure thing. The ABS in mine is the old, non-servo type. I've heard that the newer ones can be troublesome.
    The problem with mine is that the ABS will quit if your battery isn't 100% fresh and fully charged.

    I think yours is "ABS 1" and is trouble free and fit for purpose. Once you replace the battery or start riding it for the summer again it wont give you problems. Enjoy.


  • #48
    two wheels good
    Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    ABS: Wait a few seconds between ign. on and starting. Gives the ABS self-test time to complete before the current draw from starter.
    If the starter is gummed-up or magnets are beginning to detatch (common prob) the current draw is high and increases possibility of ABS faults. Symptom: starter slow to turn-over.

    But braking power isn't impaired - unlike servo failure. As you say just restart later, or keep battery charged. Nuisance is having to set the clock!


  • #49
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    two wheels good wrote: »
    ABS: Wait a few seconds between ign. on and starting. Gives the ABS self-test time to complete before the current draw from starter.
    If the starter is gummed-up or magnets are beginning to detatch (common prob) the current draw is high and increases possibility of ABS faults. Symptom: starter slow to turn-over.

    But braking power isn't impaired - unlike servo failure. As you say just restart later, or keep battery charged. Nuisance is having to set the clock!

    I'll give it a try.
    Starter turns fine unless bike has been standing and I only had to set the clock once, that was the first start after the winter.
    In warm weather and regular driving, I've no problems.
    The ABS just doesn't like it if the battery isn't 100% fit and healthy, but it should survive the summer.
    Not done any riding lately, because:

    549684.jpg


  • #50
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Sir Galahad wrote: »
    I think yours is "ABS 1" and is trouble free and fit for purpose. Once you replace the battery or start riding it for the summer again it wont give you problems. Enjoy.

    Yes, it's ABS 1.
    Nearly bought a later BMW with type 2.
    Glad I didn't. The later one felt much smoother to drive than my pepper grinder, but I guess that's down to final drive crown wheel.
    And of course I've single spark instead of double.


  • #51
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Small update.
    The bike had it's inspection, new tires and rear brake pads.
    It feels much better on the new rubber and the cops who stopped me agreed that TUV, new tires and brakes are indeed the way to go. :D
    You will get stopped a lot by cops here if you're on a bike.
    Usually they take over a roadside car park, usually in a speed restricted zone, a guy with a radar gun hides down the road and clocks you and radios the results to the guys in the car park. Further up the road another cop waves at you to pull into the car park and there will be further cops who process everyone that got stopped.
    It's like an assembly line. You get used to it. And the cops are usually sound.
    This weekend I will attempt to adjust the valve play.

    As for the rear end, I'm just calling the bike Pepper for now.
    There is still a certain slight roughness.
    I've watched videos on rebuilding that rear end and concluded that buying a whole rear diff is the way to go, since I don't have gear pullers and a hydraulic bearing press.
    At the moment it's only a small issue that bears watching over time.


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  • #52
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Update on the bike being reluctant to start and ABS warning lights.
    It used to be a pain starting the bike, had to hold the throttle, it was conking out and ABS was complaining. Turned it off and on again after a few km and all was well.
    Turns out I'm an idiot and I hadn't RTFM.
    On the left there's a small lever for raising the rpm for a cold start. It can't be a choke, since the bike has fuel injection. When you engage the lever, the throttle moves slightly. Which is very odd, since when do you get fuel injection that requires you to engage some form of choke lever? I've never seen that.
    The lever is very small, the writing has faded, so it's just a small, black know that is easy to overlook
    Bike starts and runs perfectly when using the lever.


  • #53
    Hotblack Desiato
    Registered Users Posts: 33,832 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Years ago I bought a new CBR600, had awful trouble starting it on cold days, was thinking there was something wrong with it.

    Turned out the choke mechanism was quite stiff when new and up until then all I'd been doing was taking the slack out of the cable and not really applying any choke at all :o

    But yeah having a fuel injection system that doesn't automatically look after cold starts is very weird.

    Life ain't always empty.



  • #54
    Sir Galahad
    Registered Users Posts: 691 ✭✭✭Sir Galahad


    Detritus70 wrote: »
    Update on the bike being reluctant to start and ABS warning lights.
    It used to be a pain starting the bike, had to hold the throttle, it was conking out and ABS was complaining. Turned it off and on again after a few km and all was well.
    Turns out I'm an idiot and I hadn't RTFM.
    On the left there's a small lever for raising the rpm for a cold start. It can't be a choke, since the bike has fuel injection. When you engage the lever, the throttle moves slightly. Which is very odd, since when do you get fuel injection that requires you to engage some form of choke lever? I've never seen that.
    The lever is very small, the writing has faded, so it's just a small, black know that is easy to overlook
    Bike starts and runs perfectly when using the lever.

    It is a choke. Use it until you have “one bar” on the RID then turn it off.


  • #55
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Sir Galahad wrote: »
    It is a choke. Use it until you have “one bar” on the RID then turn it off.

    I've just never seen a choke on anything fuel injected


  • #56
    blade1
    Registered Users Posts: 12,084 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Detritus70 wrote: »
    I've just never seen a choke on anything fuel injected

    I've two fuel injection aprilias with a choke or cold start as its called.


  • #57
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    Well, now I know. :D


  • #58
    galwaytt
    Registered Users Posts: 12,751 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Sir Galahad wrote: »
    It is a choke. Use it until you have “one bar” on the RID then turn it off.

    it's just a fast idle really, no choking's involved. Just raises idle rpm until it's warm enough to not needed.

    OP - one thing all that Gen of BMW's need is a good battery. When I had RT's 1100/1150 and up to GS12, I always fitted an Odyssey PC680 battery.

    If they ECU on those doesn't get enought juice at power-on, it just throws a hissy fit.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • #59
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    No real update yet again, been driving Pepper more than fixing her. The speedo driver broke, you have to pull the front axle halfway out to replace that and later I adjusted the valve clearances.

    I am always blown away by the absolute minute NM figures for all the nuts and bolts, like 20 or 30 NM for the bolts holding the front wheel in place an 8(!!) NM for the counterlock nuts for the tappets. I forgot to check that beforehand and apllied rather a lot more force, like a lot.

    I had the bike on the main stand and kept the rear end in the air with a broom handle (I only use the most professional gear) and I turned the rear wheel in neutral. No crunchiness or play whatsoever. I then started the bike, put it in first and let the clutch out.

    There is definitely something not quite right, there is something sounding a bit rough, but I can't figure out if it's the shaft or if it's coming from the gearbox direction. I don't have any problems when driving and she's now sitting at nearly 95000 km, so I put a good few miles on that bike.



  • #60
    Colm Cummins
    Registered Users Posts: 25 ✭Colm Cummins


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/117797162#Comment_117797162

    Not advised to run the bike on the main stand. They will all make a bit of noise.



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  • #61
    Detritus70
    Registered Users Posts: 714 ✭✭✭Detritus70


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118011555#Comment_118011555

    Yes, I googled around a bit and found out that doing that will result in noise.

    Bike is going very well so far and have been commuting on it a fair bit



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