Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all,
Vanilla are planning an update to the site on April 24th (next Wednesday). It is a major PHP8 update which is expected to boost performance across the site. The site will be down from 7pm and it is expected to take about an hour to complete. We appreciate your patience during the update.
Thanks all.

Building a bartop, few questions RE supplies.

  • 19-07-2015 3:37pm
    #1
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭


    Hey guys,

    I am in the planning stage of building a bartop and all that is really left is to buy the timber, marquee and monitor though I will list what I already have in case I have missed something.

    What I have:
    Computer innards for running hyperspin.
    2x joysticks
    16x buttons various colors.
    P1 and P2 buttons
    All the microswitches required.
    USB interface for controls.
    Speakers

    Now, this is my first build but I have been planning on building it for quite some time. My hyperspin collection is bursting at the seams at over a TB. What I need help with is deciding what size monitor to go with. As this is a bartop I am not going for authenticity, an LCD panel will do fine. I will be building a full sized cabinet in the future and will go to crt route. So for those who have made a bartop in the past what do you think is a good sized monitor to go with?

    Also, the timber. I am thinking about going for MDF, I figure I can do this in one 4ftx8ftx3/4in sheet. Where do builders usually source their timber? I admit I have not done a lot of research in to it. How do people usually get the timber home? Do they get it cut into smaller sheets? Perhaps 2 4x4 sheets? Do the major chains cut to size like b&q?

    Also, can anyone suggest a place to get a marquee printed? Most places I have seen online are US based.

    The control panel will consist of 2 players, 6 buttons each the P1 and P2 buttons, 2 pinball buttons and a coin button. Due to having two players perhaps I would be best off with a 22-24 inch monitor? to keep it wide enough to be comfortable with 2 players? I have access to a 24inch monitor.

    Thanks for any help you guys can offer. Once I get the build started I will be sure to document it and share with you guys here.

    P.S. I am based in Limerick if you know of any suppliers I might take a look at.


«1

Comments

  • #2
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Go with birch ply instead of mdf


  • #3
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    Go with birch ply instead of mdf

    My worry with plywood is I would have to be way more careful in the woodwork having to worry about the grain and such. My expertise is not carpentry so would be way more comfortable with the mdf which can be cut and molded to whatever shape one desires.

    Perhaps for my fullsize build in the future I will consider a plywood.


  • #4
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Sounds like your minds made up


  • #5
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I'd go with a 19" 5:4 or 4:3 screen, and avoid a wide panel. The majority of the games you'll play on it will be 4:3 based, & will look terrible either stretched out to 16:9, or else leave you with blank borders either side of the screen.


  • #6
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    Myrddin wrote: »
    I'd go with a 19" 5:4 or 4:3 screen, and avoid a wide panel. The majority of the games you'll play on it will be 4:3 based, & will look terrible either stretched out to 16:9, or else leave you with blank borders either side of the screen.

    So you think that would be large enough for two players? That was my original thought too but I would hate to have two players cramped in to play a game.

    I guess I can't ask for too much though from a bar top as they are normally single player only.

    Wide screen is nice if you want to fill the blank space with bezels using something like rocketlauncher. I would never play an arcade game in anything but it's own aspect ratio.


  • Advertisement
  • #7
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I think it's large enough for two, but that's just my 2c. A wider unit with bezels on the side etc would obviously cater to 2 players better, but unless it's gonna see some serious 2p usage, I'd prefer the smaller more compact setup


  • #8
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    Myrddin wrote: »
    I think it's large enough for two, but that's just my 2c. A wider unit with bezels on the side etc would obviously cater to 2 players better, but unless it's gonna see some serious 2p usage, I'd prefer the smaller more compact setup

    Good point, 2 players would only ever get usage a few times a month on beer nights :)

    Now to source a 19inch monitor. Should not be too difficult I think.

    Thanks for the input!


  • #9
    Damien King
    Registered Users Posts: 195 ✭✭Damien King


    Hi, congrats on taking the plunge!

    In my opinion a 19" 4:3 would be the way to go. you might want to re think the MDF, The time you could potentially spend getting the finish just right for painting could be more than time spent taking care cutting decent material.

    Some black ash melamime with chrome t molding could look the part....

    heres a couple of pics of stuff I've built for clients..these 2 bartops were designed for 19" monitors, as you can see the proportions are pretty good, they were large bartops though.

    other pic shows a fulsize with a 20" 4:3, the marquee was printed,mounted on lightbox film and backlit.

    Control panel overlay is clear polycarbonate.

    Feel free to ask or PM me if you need advice on a build

    355766.JPG


    355767.jpg
    PB088778.JPG

    Untitled-1.jpg


  • #10
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    Damien King wrote: »
    Hi, congrats on taking the plunge!

    In my opinion a 19" 4:3 would be the way to go. you might want to re think the MDF, The time you could potentially spend getting the finish just right for painting could be more than time spent taking care cutting decent material.

    Some black ash melamime with chrome t molding could look the part....

    heres a couple of pics of stuff I've built for clients..these 2 bartops were designed for 19" monitors, as you can see the proportions are pretty good, they were large bartops though.

    other pic shows a fulsize with a 20" 4:3, the marquee was printed,mounted on lightbox film and backlit.

    Control panel overlay is clear polycarbonate.

    Feel free to ask or PM me if you need advice on a build

    355766.JPG


    355767.jpg
    PB088778.JPG

    Untitled-1.jpg

    That full size is pretty impressive. Not very traditional but has that tron feel to it. Give me ideas of getting RGB LED strips myself on my fullsize in a few month.

    The bartops you have there are pretty much what I am going for, the correct shape and the dimensions definitely look on point. I think I will leave a trackball out of this build though, trying to keep the price down. They are definitely nice though.

    You are the second person now against mdf. Hmm.. I am just afraid of ruining the timber. I still need to find somewhere that will deliver a single 4'x8' sheet.

    I have a 3'x8' sheet of chipboard I might use to practice with. It has been cut down the middle though into two 1.5'x8' sheet.Can you tell me the rough dimensions of your bartop?


  • #11
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    One more question. for t-molding, what bit is required for a router?


  • Advertisement
  • #12
    Damien King
    Registered Users Posts: 195 ✭✭Damien King


    salamanca22 wrote: »
    One more question. for t-molding, what bit is required for a router?

    You will need a slot cutter, you will need to order 2 pieces: the attachment (arbour) for the router then a cutter bit for the arbour tricky enough to get a 2mm bit in Ireland but can be ordered from uk. shouldnt cost more than £35 (approx 50 euro) for the 2 parts, parcel motel will save a few quid delivery.

    I've dealt with these guys before:

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-2-wing-slotting-router-cutters

    if you have a router then heres an idea for you:

    make your test panel out of the chip board using whatever tools you have, once you have the perfect shape then you could always get a bearing guided template cutter for the router and use that to cut the side panels with the chipboard shape acting as a template. you might need to use spacers in between the 2 to allow for a couple of passes at different depths but its not impossible to do.

    You can always use a spare piece of the final material to arse about with and get the router speed just right for a clean cut.

    I make all my cabinets using jigs and a router and in my opinion its the only way to go.

    I posted my 2 cents worth up about cutting t molding slots with pics a few months back, have a scroll through and you'll find it, could be useful for you

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=94740828

    Hope that helps!


  • #13
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    Damien King wrote: »
    You will need a slot cutter, you will need to order 2 pieces: the attachment (arbour) for the router then a cutter bit for the arbour tricky enough to get a 2mm bit in Ireland but can be ordered from uk. shouldnt cost more than £35 (approx 50 euro) for the 2 parts, parcel motel will save a few quid delivery.

    I've dealt with these guys before:

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-2-wing-slotting-router-cutters

    if you have a router then heres an idea for you:

    make your test panel out of the chip board using whatever tools you have, once you have the perfect shape then you could always get a bearing guided template cutter for the router and use that to cut the side panels with the chipboard shape acting as a template. you might need to use spacers in between the 2 to allow for a couple of passes at different depths but its not impossible to do.

    You can always use a spare piece of the final material to arse about with and get the router speed just right for a clean cut.

    I make all my cabinets using jigs and a router and in my opinion its the only way to go.

    I posted my 2 cents worth up about cutting t molding slots with pics a few months back, have a scroll through and you'll find it, could be useful for you

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=94740828

    Hope that helps!

    Thanks so much for the input, it is very helpful!

    The problem with the chipboard sheet I have it has been cut to 18 inches on one of the dimensions which means it's off by a few inches no matter what way I cut it for the sides. I would like the depth at about 21-23 inches. Height would definitely be larger than that so I am SOL with the chipboard for making a template. Having a template sure is a smart idea though. I might order an extra sheet to make a template with as I have a few friends who are interested in a bartop too and it would make it go real fast after the first one.

    Hmm kind of expensive for the slot cutter and attachment. I might hold off on that for now. Will definitely be getting one for the fullsize cab though in a few months.

    I have my router and jigsaw ready to go but I can't think of anything that I will need the router for other than the slots and perhaps cutting into the timber to seat the controls better.

    I am really starting to get excited now, it is a long time coming making this. Every summer for the past 5 years I have planned on making this! This summer I finally have the spare funds and time. That and it helps I am starting small with the bartop and going from there.

    Still trying to decide where to get the timber and what timber to actually go for. I am starting to go off the idea of MDF. I am trying to keep the costs down though too as this is a test run so to speak.


  • #14
    Damien King
    Registered Users Posts: 195 ✭✭Damien King


    If you have transport then Don't get too hung up on getting sheet material delivered, any decent place will cut square/rectangular pieces to size. Its always good to check out the different materials on offer as well and You'd get it into a car.

    When you consider that most of your top/bottom/back and internal pieces are going to be square/rectangular and the same width it could be the way to go. the only tricky bits will be the side panels and you are probably best starting with rectangles in any case, you might even have a spare to allow from visits from the f*ck up fairy!

    Good call on the mdf, it'll be cheaper alright but you'll be spending extra on wood primer / abrasive paper / counselling etc once you get done with it.


  • #15
    smliv
    Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭smliv


    i have just started a build for my brother inlaw yesterday. He already had the mdf so he brought it down to me and i started cutting and shapeing it and i have to say the dust off the stuff is ungodly its everywhere, I reckon it's going to take me just as long to clean up as it is to finish this cab. Go with ply


  • #16
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    smliv wrote: »
    i have just started a build for my brother inlaw yesterday. He already had the mdf so he brought it down to me and i started cutting and shapeing it and i have to say the dust off the stuff is ungodly its everywhere, I reckon it's going to take me just as long to clean up as it is to finish this cab. Go with ply

    Yeah I have pretty much decided to go with ply.

    How are you cutting the mdf? The dust it gives off is really fine so I hope you are wearing protection around your face. My tools have attachments for the hover as well that suck up the dust as the timber is cut, fairly handy.


  • #17
    smliv
    Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭smliv


    I'm using a router and table saw and hover attached but still an awful mess, it leaves a sort of film of dust on everything. Got myself a mask this morning. Only thing now is i'm going to have to do the rest of the cutting in my front garden because I've a few dogs out the back. I'm dreading the sanding there's loads to be done. He's looking for a candy cab styled bartop like the mgs003


  • #18
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    Just an update on this.

    I placed my timber order today, picking it up on Tuesday after the bank holiday. I went with the mdf because it was 20 euro per sheet for 2400x1220x18mm compared to 38 for the plain plywood. I couldn't pay the difference when it came to it, especially since this will be my first cab and is more of an experiment than anything that will precursor my full size cab in a few months. I am going to put a decal on this one as I don't feel like going through the hell of getting the paint right on it. Has anyone done this with mdf? I am thinking about priming/sealing it first with a thin layer of PVA glue first before the decal goes on.

    I picked up a dell 17inch monitor off adverts too. It seems to be a perfect size. Happy with how the games look on it too.

    Just finished a mock up of my button layout on a pizza box an hour ago and am happy with what I have. It's going to be 2 players with 6 buttons each with P1 and P2 buttons under the monitor and the coin button below the control panel. Pinball buttons on either side too.

    Ran into a problem with the PC I was going to use for the brains, the motherboard had died :( will be sending it off to RMA next week. In the meantime I have a raspberry Pi 2 and will be running a retropie system. It does the job quite nice but I miss the video preview from my hyperspin setup. I also cannot fit my 15k strong game library on the 32gb sd card in the pi :P

    The cost for the whole thing so far is a lot less then I thought it was going to be. About €150 gone into it so far since I got lucky with a few finds. I expect the final cost to be about €200.

    I will definitely take pictures as I go with the build next week and share here so you can all laugh at my first build!

    28mm spade bit from b&q was 13 euro. It was not a happy purchase.


  • #19
    SmallBalls
    Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭SmallBalls


    What joysticks did you go with salamanca22?

    I'm starting to piece together some component parts for my first bartop build.
    Looking at Sanwa buttons and sticks myself but the model numbers are a bit confusing....anyone got recommendations?


  • #20
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    SmallBalls wrote: »
    What joysticks did you go with salamanca22?

    I'm starting to piece together some component parts for my first bartop build.
    Looking at Sanwa buttons and sticks myself but the model numbers are a bit confusing....anyone got recommendations?

    I bought this kit: http://www.ebay.ie/itm/331599533104?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    It's nothing to write home about to be honest. The joysticks feel very genuine but the buttons feel very light to the touch. There is not much force required to press them if you get what I mean. Definitely worth the money though for something like I am building which is my first cab project.

    I picked up my timber today, only cut the sides out. Took me an hour of sanding to get it where I was happy and I am even thinking about it now that I want to sand it further tomorrow. I just don't want to eat into the timber too much by sanding but it is hard to get it even on both sides. If it is off by a few mm I am gonna leave it though.

    Edit: Was using one of these to sand: http://s3-production.bobvila.com/blogs/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/drillholesanddrum.jpg

    Worth every penny.


  • #21
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    are you shaping the side with that drum sander?
    Its going to be impossible to get a straight line with it if you are.
    Best job is to make one panel then use a router to make the 2nd identical.


  • Advertisement
  • #22
    Star Lord
    Registered Users Posts: 30,123 ✭✭✭✭Star Lord


    If it's already shaped, and you're just sanding it smooth, then clamp both together so you're sanding them together.


  • #23
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    After looking at it the next day the sides were fine. Maybe a little bit off square but it was fine.

    Put most of the rest of it together today, having some problems settings up some of the control on the pi but I think I know what is wrong, quitting for the night so will finish it tomorrow.

    Here is how it looks so far: http://imgur.com/iEEKiWo

    Obviously unfinished but I am really happy with how it is coming out so far. I need to get the plexi glass for the marquee and for the monitor. Still waiting for my decal to arrive for the sides and need to drill holes for the speakers still. It was larger then I thought it would be so will probably need to order more of the vinyl decal.

    :)


  • #24
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    Fixed the problem with the buttons not registering correctly. The version of mame in retropie can only register 16 buttons. I had to recompile the binary with support for more buttons. Works fine now.

    The vinyl decal came today, wasn't enough of it so I have ordered more. It's pretty nice though. I will get a picture tomorrow of it.

    Thinking about going with Marvel VS Capcom for the marquee. http://puu.sh/jtttn/c61f2f190a.jpg What do you guys think?


  • #25
    smliv
    Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭smliv


    Well done on the build looks great. My first build looked like a dilapidated dolls house. The build i'm doing now is just about done it turned into 4 cabs instead of 1. And with no plans to work off a bit of a pain.


  • #26
    salamanca22
    Registered Users Posts: 1,179 ✭✭✭salamanca22


    smliv wrote: »
    Well done on the build looks great. My first build looked like a dilapidated dolls house. The build i'm doing now is just about done it turned into 4 cabs instead of 1. And with no plans to work off a bit of a pain.

    I went with a simple design, no way I would have the patience to work on a candy style cab like that!

    I still need to get the marquee and the plexiglass. Probably be a week or so before I order them.

    Here is a low res picture of how it looks so far. Phone is broken so had to use the vita to take a picture :P

    http://puu.sh/jANLj/efb272fef3.jpg


  • #27
    Optimus Prime
    Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Looking good so far! here is my first and only build, never again, much easier buying a cab and fixing one up. took me nearly a year and half to build. its probably the most used cab i have though because the kids love the variety of games on it, plus the jukebox gets used all the time.

    Good learning experience though, building from scratch.


  • #28
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Whatever happened the Tekken 3 -> MK2 conversion? I know you picked up an MK2 mid conversion, so is the Tekken 3 abandoned mid conversion?


  • #29
    Optimus Prime
    Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Still have it, ive stripped it down to just the wood, removed all the parts etc, then i got an actual MK2 so had to rethink it! To be honest i havent looked at it yet because i got caught up trying to plan the attic conversion.

    I will get it done eventually, its going to be a 4 Player Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Ive the PCB at home already, just need the time to clean up the artwork in photoshop, clean and spray the parts etc.


  • #30
    Myrddin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Optimus Prime wrote: »
    its going to be a 4 Player Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. Ive the PCB at home already, just need the time to clean up the artwork in photoshop, clean and spray the parts etc.

    Ah, very cool. Will you have to build a new CP on it? I think those Turtles 4p cabs had huge CP's?


  • Advertisement
  • #31
    Optimus Prime
    Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 5,380 Mod ✭✭✭✭Optimus Prime


    Yeh will get some wood cut, to be honest the CPO on those cabs are big anyways and since each player only has 2 buttons i should be able to fit on there. Might result in claw hand if 4 people are playing at the same time, but that wont happen often i dont think.

    Im going to get one of those Jamma Switchers i think Oisin had on here? Ive sunset riders pcb im going to put in it too.


Advertisement