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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,463 ✭✭✭fifib


    is it bad idea to get a stove thats greater in Kw that you need? working on the online Kw calculators we need 5Kw for our living room size and we've now been recommended the Boru 600i which is "up to 10Kw" - is this too much? I dont wanna be putting down a fire and having to leave the room cos its too hot! the one we were recommended by another stove shop was 5-8kW but was woodonly. the boru 600i appealing to us now as its multifuel and half the price!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭ABC101


    fifib wrote: »
    is it bad idea to get a stove thats greater in Kw that you need? working on the online Kw calculators we need 5Kw for our living room size and we've now been recommended the Boru 600i which is "up to 10Kw" - is this too much? I dont wanna be putting down a fire and having to leave the room cos its too hot! the one we were recommended by another stove shop was 5-8kW but was woodonly. the boru 600i appealing to us now as its multifuel and half the price!

    You can always throttle the air flow to the stove, a bit like a car accelerator, you can control the speed.

    Just because a car can exceed 150kph does not mean it always drives at 150 kph.

    Stoves are the same, a 10kw stove could run at 4 kW by restrictions de air flow vent and getting the stove to slumber.

    As Sanchez mentions less fuel is less heat, which is less kW .


  • Registered Users Posts: 45,181 ✭✭✭✭Bobeagleburger


    I lit the biggest fire in my new stove to date this evening. About an hour in it making strange noises inside the chimney breast. Sounded almost like water!

    I'm guessing it was the lining expanding and contracting with the heat?


  • Registered Users Posts: 45,181 ✭✭✭✭Bobeagleburger


    fifib wrote: »
    is it bad idea to get a stove thats greater in Kw that you need? working on the online Kw calculators we need 5Kw for our living room size and we've now been recommended the Boru 600i which is "up to 10Kw" - is this too much? I dont wanna be putting down a fire and having to leave the room cos its too hot! the one we were recommended by another stove shop was 5-8kW but was woodonly. the boru 600i appealing to us now as its multifuel and half the price!

    The Inis bofin is about 7kw. Would probably be perfect for your room size. Not sure how it compares in price though


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,668 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    fifib wrote: »
    is it bad idea to get a stove thats greater in Kw that you need? working on the online Kw calculators we need 5Kw for our living room size and we've now been recommended the Boru 600i which is "up to 10Kw" - is this too much? I dont wanna be putting down a fire and having to leave the room cos its too hot! the one we were recommended by another stove shop was 5-8kW but was woodonly. the boru 600i appealing to us now as its multifuel and half the price!
    My (layman's) understanding is that stoves operate best at full capacity, or near it.

    I know if I turn mine right down when the room gets too hot, or if I'm going out and want the fire to stay in for when I get back, the window starts gumming up with a tarry deposit that needs to be cleaned the following morning.

    I also needed about 5KW for my space, got the Inis Airc, and it's perfect, I love it. However like the poster above I'm not sure how it'd compare pricewise.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi FifiB,

    The Boru 600i is not passive as you requested a passive stove in your previous posts.
    It's a decent multifuel stove normally at good prices.
    however as HeidiHeidi says above it is not a good idea to buy a stove with a capacity way more than you need.
    The more accurate you are the more efficent the stove is as that's what it was designed for.So if the room heat calculator says 5kw then be safe and go for a 6kw if possible.10kw is definetly too much.


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    fifib wrote: »
    is it bad idea to get a stove thats greater in Kw that you need? working on the online Kw calculators we need 5Kw for our living room size and we've now been recommended the Boru 600i which is "up to 10Kw" - is this too much? I dont wanna be putting down a fire and having to leave the room cos its too hot! the one we were recommended by another stove shop was 5-8kW but was woodonly. the boru 600i appealing to us now as its multifuel and half the price!

    It would seem extreme to go for that, the space could easily get uncomfortably hot at 10kw if it only needs 5kw.
    Whilst you can control it very well you would always be holding back on what you put in and even with the draughts closed the inserts burn away.
    Plus as other posters said stoves work better when operated normally.

    If you are looking insert
    Stanley Cara is 6.6kw and around 1150/1200 for enamel
    Henley achill is 6.6kw and henley apollo is available at 7kw - I think both around mid 900's for enamel version


  • Registered Users Posts: 292 ✭✭briman1983


    Looking for advise on installing the Henley Faro 700 18kw boiler stove.

    The house that I am looking at installing it in has a traditional fireplace.

    My hope would be to completely remove the fireplace and install the stove around 3 foot from the ground.

    My fire place comes out from the wall around 380mm but from looking at the specifications of the stove it looks to be 540mm deep,

    Would this require that I build out the wall to accommodate the stove, would also need to break a new opening in the flu and block up the old opening.

    Any advise from anyone who has completed this work would be appreciated

    http://www.henleystoves.com/fires/oxford-7kw-7/the-faro-570-18kw-boiler


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,463 ✭✭✭fifib


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi FifiB,

    The Boru 600i is not passive as you requested a passive stove in your previous posts.
    It's a decent multifuel stove normally at good prices.
    however as HeidiHeidi says above it is not a good idea to buy a stove with a capacity way more than you need.
    The more accurate you are the more efficent the stove is as that's what it was designed for.So if the room heat calculator says 5kw then be safe and go for a 6kw if possible.10kw is definetly too much.

    its an external air supply stove that we are after - if this is different to a passive? Im only learning the different terms. we were told the boru 600i is an external air supply stove. our room measurements give us 5kw but we have come across a calculator that takes into account external insulation which we have - 8 inches of it! and now it looks like we only need a 1kw stove. i dont believe these exist even! its a cassette stove we were after. and another open plan style room we are looking for a modern type stove, i believe we only need 4-5kw here too.
    anyone else got a passive style/airtight/externally insulated home with stoves?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,884 ✭✭✭Tzardine


    Hi guys,

    A really quick question.

    I have an Olymberyl Aidan stove. Its a large multifuel stove.

    Ho much should I fill it when using coal. I usually have 1 to 2 layers of coal in it but I feel that I should be putting more. I am afraid to put too much on though.

    Any thoughts?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 45,181 ✭✭✭✭Bobeagleburger


    rarnes1 wrote: »
    I lit the biggest fire in my new stove to date this evening.

    About an hour in it making strange noises inside the chimney breast. Sounded almost like water!

    I'm guessing it was the lining expanding and contracting with the heat?


    Anyone know anything on this?


  • Registered Users Posts: 251 ✭✭crxsi09


    Hi everyone.
    Looking to get a 5/6kw stove for room at house.but uncertain as whether to get a multi fuel stove or oil stove.ot wont be connected to boiler or rads etc..just to heat downstair rooms etc. Friend has a nester martin oil one and says its very economical.
    Any advice? How economical are multi fuel to run? We have a normal open coal fire which is ridicolous to run nowadays anyway.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 251 ✭✭crxsi09


    Hi everyone.
    Looking to get a 5/6kw stove for room at house.but uncertain as whether to get a multi fuel stove or oil stove.ot wont be connected to boiler or rads etc..just to heat downstair rooms etc. Friend has a nester martin oil one and says its very economical.
    Any advice? How economical are multi fuel to run? We have a normal open coal fire which is ridicolous to run nowadays anyway.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 477 ✭✭blowin3


    blowin3 wrote: »
    I had planned to go see this guy selling the cheap stoves. But due to getting caught up in some thing else in the house I did not get a chance but will do tomorrow.
    Well I finally got to see this guy in Sixmilebridge Co.Clare. He has a warehouse out the back of his house and has stoves on show. I found him both knowledgeable and helpful and I bought a Sheelin Inset boiler stove off him for 650e which I was happy with this price. He did point out that they were marketed as a 21kw but in reality were 16kw stove but I am doing up a 3 bedroom house so ideal for me. I can recommend this guy from my dealings with him.


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    crxsi09 wrote: »
    Hi everyone.
    Looking to get a 5/6kw stove for room at house.but uncertain as whether to get a multi fuel stove or oil stove.ot wont be connected to boiler or rads etc..just to heat downstair rooms etc. Friend has a nester martin oil one and says its very economical.
    Any advice? How economical are multi fuel to run? We have a normal open coal fire which is ridicolous to run nowadays anyway.
    Thanks


    Is there an oil supply near the fireplace or would it involve extra work to get oil to that area? That might be a cost factor to add to your deliberations.

    As you are already using solid fuel in an open fire then a stove will be way more efficient, open fire around 20% efficient, most stoves around 75% efficient
    You mention you want to heat downstairs "rooms"
    a room heater (ie non boiler) heats the room it is in. You can leave the doors open to help the get to the other rooms but dont go for too much higher kw output than you need as the room the stove is in might become uncomfortably hot.
    You have a choice of freestanding or insert.
    Some companies now have slim freestanding as well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    Can somebody recommend me a insert stove I want to fit I'm my living room. It's 5 kW I need.

    Also do the chimneys need a flue liner? They are timber frame house and the chimney is precast AFAIK. Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 KDutchie


    Robbie, I don't know much about these stoves but have been doing a bit of research in a similar situation recently as you can see from my previous posts on this forum. We had a timber surround so it was a bit more complicated to achieve the clear distance to combustibles required by the various stoves. We eventually went with the Aarow Ecoburn 5 Plus. The distances required are 300 above and 200mm to the sides which just fits in our fireplace surround, fairly standard size. Decided on this one as it has a lifetime guarantee and a good big glass front. It is due to be fitted over the next few weeks so we will let you know how we get on.

    I'm not sure how you will work out since a timber framed house but if there is an open fire in there already it should be fine to fit a stove. We did not need a flue kit or to reline the chimney for this one as it has a letterbox opening at the back. If you do go with the Aarow, or any arada stove you should go for one of their approved suppliers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭ABC101


    KDutchie wrote: »
    Robbie, I don't know much about these stoves but have been doing a bit of research in a similar situation recently as you can see from my previous posts on this forum. We had a timber surround so it was a bit more complicated to achieve the clear distance to combustibles required by the various stoves. We eventually went with the Aarow Ecoburn 5 Plus. The distances required are 300 above and 200mm to the sides which just fits in our fireplace surround, fairly standard size. Decided on this one as it has a lifetime guarantee and a good big glass front. It is due to be fitted over the next few weeks so we will let you know how we get on.

    I'm not sure how you will work out since a timber framed house but if there is an open fire in there already it should be fine to fit a stove. We did not need a flue kit or to reline the chimney for this one as it has a letterbox opening at the back. If you do go with the Aarow, or any arada stove you should go for one of their approved suppliers.

    I'm interested in what you mean not needing a flue liner as the stove has a letterbox opening? Just curious that's all, thinking of getting a stove sometime myself!


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 KDutchie


    ABC101 wrote: »
    I'm interested in what you mean not needing a flue liner as the stove has a letterbox opening? Just curious that's all, thinking of getting a stove sometime myself!

    Its a letterbox style flue outlet on back corner of the stove rather than a circular one. Apparently means they don't need the kit and just flanche in around this.

    I doubt this will remove the need for a full liner if your chimney is not suitable but may remove the need for the flue kit to connect the stove to the chimney.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,164 ✭✭✭k123456


    Hi Folks, I have a carraig mor boiler stove, and find the glass needs to be cleaned daily

    I am using bone dry wood, and try to keep the wood to the back of the stove, to avoid flames touching the glass

    I dont think I am using the vents properly, to keep the glass clean

    Whats the best way to use the three vents please

    there are three

    http://borustoves.ie/shop/boiler-stoves/carraig-mor-20kw-freestanding-boiler-stoves/



    one under the stove with numbers 1 to 7
    one under the glass
    and one over the glass

    I am trying to keep the glass clean, balanced with moderate fuel usage

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    Hi , I ending up buying a free standing Hamco Glenbarrow stove today. I went for a freestanding one instead because I showed the supplier my measurements and pictures I had taken on my tablet.

    Also bought a flue liner .


  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    My neighbour has this done and I'm not so sure now with the one I bought yesterday? I'd rather knock the black granite and sit it right in. Is that a big job ? I've the same fireplace

    D686A1E9-A703-4847-A65D-B06825DF641F.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    I was wondering same thing before Robbie. I asked in a stove shop and was told although it looks lovely in the pictures you see in displays, you would loose heat to the room by doing this. Only one opinion though. My partner and I are in a disagreement about stoves at moment because of this issue. I want an insert as our sitting room is narrow and I don't want stove sticking out from fireplace too much into room, he thinks the stand alone stoves are better for heat to room and can get more kw for our money (I think he is right in saying this though?) Any opinions on this debate. He suggested we look for a wider stove the other day that wouldn't stick out so far (cuboid shape maybe?) does such a thing exist? If we could knock out our marble and put standalone into the fireplace it would solve alot if it worked. I have a feeling this would be costly enough though and would need a builder as in effect we would be removing the support from the chimney so would require reinforcing? Thanks for any opinion.


  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    My sister had this done not so long ago. She reckons it doesn't look great if I leave it sitting on the hearth. So I might consider it.

    1A0DBA2E-A0F4-4497-882A-FB67516E8A12.png

    99F4EDBA-4514-4561-B1F4-AA072296A881.png

    9C57CBCB-6FDA-4560-A8BE-A6BD98FC423A.jpg

    87858A46-4A5A-4FF6-872E-2E6FB532E837.jpg

    She is not finished yet. She is putting brick all around the stove walls

    Any opinions? I'm not sure the builders supported the chimney by the look of it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    Seems to have concreted over blocks each side and around flue..so all looks supported from what i can see from pics.
    looks good enough job.. wonder did she pay much for it? or do you know?
    It is quite messy work so house has layer of dust no matter how you tape up doors etc.

    But the idea of sitting stove in front of of fire place to edge of hearth is totally wrong...if spark falls out on timber floor , starts fire ....insurance will laugh all the way out the door, you need hearth min 225 mm or 9 inches in front of fire/stove...
    and a lot of stove company's state you need a lot more!
    so if you put stove to edge of hearth in front of fire place.....be careful.

    My advise on inset stoves, from what iv seen on the market and feed back is this...
    Cheap inset stoves generally dont give out the heat the same as cheap freestanding stoves,
    But if you get fairly reputable inset stove they give out as much and in some cases more heat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    Hi , I'm not sure what she paid . She was getting windows put in both sides of that chimney breast and getting more work done ... She had the house built in 2005 so decided this stove and knocking the fireplace was the best

    She managed to sell the fireplace on adverts too...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 770 ✭✭✭viztopia


    Moved into a new house with free standing stove in sitting room. Had a Plummer look at it the other evening as it doesn't seem to be heating any of the radiators. If I turn on the oil heating then it seems to go through the stove in some way as the stove too gets hot and pipes also. There is a good bit of banging going on with the pipes as well. If I light the fire it will heat the room and water. Plummer says that the stove was put in as an afterthought and the cylinder is on the same level as it and we will have to put it in the attic to get it working right. Trust my Plummer in what he says but does anyone think he is right without seeing it? I know the easiest thing to do is pick up the phone and ask him again but would like to see what anyone might think.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73 ✭✭Stiffs


    Question regarding Certificate of Compliance.

    I'm mid way fitting a stove to the gable wall of my house with flue ran through wall at at 45deg angle. I've used the 800x600 fire wall bricks to make the dry lined walls safe and then i'll sand stone 1" over this. The distance is 6" safe left and right of stove and 4-6" to rear.
    The hearth runs 12" forward of front of the stove. I'll also fire brick the inner wall of the break where the flue goes through the wall to cover off battons & insulation.

    My question is this.. I've stuck to the guided regs of installation (having been advised a thousand different (dangerous) ways to do it - ive gone complete over kill and fire walled the entire wall behind & around the stove)

    do i need to get this work signed off / approved by somebody to clear any possible insurance issues / permissions etc?


  • Registered Users Posts: 58 ✭✭dugger


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    It's a grey area here in Ireland as there is very little regulation here.
    It's why I'm an advocate of always asking if a stove has independent testing.
    There's actually one Irish company who were operating for over a year without even CE certification.
    A lot of Irish stove heat outputs are either very rough estimates or completely made up!
    Been hearing a bit about Pierce stoves for example since the ploughing.
    These are NOT an Irish made stove,they are 100% made in China.However they look a decent stove....but again no independent testing so I would take their heat outputs and efficiencies with a pinch of salt until they have certification available to the public.
    The biggest con artists though are without doubt Heritage stoves.Their heat outputs are all way over estimated.

    However the stove you mentioned is independently tested by Gastech UK(The cert is on the Henley website).SGS are another company who do independent testing.
    They test the stove with different fuel types at different burn rates.
    They then take the average which is called the nominal heat output which is 6.6kw on the Achill for example.They also give efficiencies etc.
    It's not really possible to say what the heat output is at its lowest.Id imagine if I put a firefighter and 1 briquette I'd get approx 1kw of heat,if I put in 2 I'd get more and so on.
    The heat output of the stove is proportional to the fuel x air x efficency.

    Hi Sanchez
    Having read your post I was a bit concerned as I bought a Pierce Glas 18k last year, So last Friday when I was in Wexford on business I called to their factory to see if my stove had been independently tested, I was also concerned as to whether the stove was actually made in Ireland as that is what I was lead to believe when purchasing, I can safely say to you now that they are as I was brought out to there factory floor and seen the manufacturing taking place and was also presented with test certs from the same company you mentioned above Gastec, after asking why this test information is not given to the public I was told that they were in the process of upgrading there website and the info would be available this week so we'll just have to wait and see, The guys there seemed nice so I'd say if anyone had a genuine concern they would get the same tour as me if they wanted to drop down


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  • Registered Users Posts: 45,181 ✭✭✭✭Bobeagleburger


    Robbie G wrote: »
    My neighbour has this done and I'm not so sure now with the one I bought yesterday? I'd rather knock the black granite and sit it right in. Is that a big job ? I've the same fireplace

    D686A1E9-A703-4847-A65D-B06825DF641F.jpg


    I've seen this type of stove with the legs trimmed so they can slot into the hole


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