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Fixed gear or normal bike 18 km Dublin commute

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2

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    #32
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,291 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    the one thing that would give me pause re a fixie - as i think WA mentioned - is that issue of taking a corner too quickly and not being able to keep the pedal from striking the ground.
    i have a bike at home with a flip flop rear wheel, but have never put it on the fixed side.


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    #33
    rollingscone
    Registered Users Posts: 3,477 ✭✭✭rollingscone


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    Fixed Fear is what youse all have

    I do for sure. Singlespeed is fine for all of Dublin.

    Fixed if you have the skills...I remain convinced that I'd be my own undoing on fixed.


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    #34
    OleRodrigo
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭OleRodrigo


    The real worry with riding fixed.....


    ....is not having tied your shoe laces tightly.


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    #35
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,445 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    the one thing that would give me pause re a fixie - as i think WA mentioned - is that issue of taking a corner too quickly and not being able to keep the pedal from striking the ground.
    i have a bike at home with a flip flop rear wheel, but have never put it on the fixed side.
    Shorter cranks and a higher BB, converted road bikes to fixed gear are not a good idea IMO they are fine for single speeds though.
    rollingscone wrote: »
    I do for sure. Singlespeed is fine for all of Dublin.

    Fixed if you have the skills...I remain convinced that I'd be my own undoing on fixed.
    I don't think there is any skill to it, it is just riding a bike, only you cannot freewheel.
    OleRodrigo wrote: »
    The real worry with riding fixed.....


    ....is not having tied your shoe laces tightly.
    Has happened to me, thankfully lace snapped but left an imprint on my foot before it did.


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    #36
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    the one thing that would give me pause re a fixie - as i think WA mentioned - is that issue of taking a corner too quickly and not being able to keep the pedal from striking the ground.
    i have a bike at home with a flip flop rear wheel, but have never put it on the fixed side.

    Proper track bikes have higher bottom brackets, I've never once come close to pedal strike.
    OleRodrigo wrote: »
    The real worry with riding fixed.....


    ....is not having tied your shoe laces tightly.

    Or just long laces, or flappy trousers.


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    #37
    OleRodrigo
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭OleRodrigo


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    .. or flappy trousers.

    :eek:

    Pics or GTFO
    Cramcycle wrote: »
    Has happened to me, thankfully lace snapped but left an imprint on my foot before it did..

    Same, bottom of Parnell Square East. Was lucky to make it to the kerb and untangle myself. Runner was ruined. Luckily there were no buses around.


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    #38
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    OleRodrigo wrote: »
    :eek:

    Pics or GTFO

    Happened at track. One of the kids. Track suit bottom was bunched up at the ends and went into chainring.


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    #39
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,741 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    machaseh wrote: »
    I am not the biggest fan of derailleurs because while they work perfectly, they are very clunky, heavy and have a good chance of breaking down.

    They do need more maintenance than hub gears. They're not heavy though. At least, not as heavy as the hub-gear equivalent.

    If I were looking for a low-maintenance bike, hub-gear is what I'd go for.

    machaseh wrote: »
    I'll look into threespeeds, those are the type of bikes that would be the most common in the Netherlands yes. But I am not sure if they would be the best for such a long distance.

    A light three-speed would be grand for 18km, I think. I've done 30+km on a three-speed Brompton, which, apart from the limited gearing, also isn't as well suited to long distances as a non-folding bike (though it's surprisingly close, given the compromises required for folding).

    There do seem to be three-speed versions of some single-speed bikes, from what I've read. They're pretty minimalist too. Think they'd be a good option, but I;m not sure how much choice there is.


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    #40
    Wishbone Ash
    Registered Users Posts: 24,952 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    the one thing that would give me pause re a fixie - as i think WA mentioned - is that issue of taking a corner too quickly and not being able to keep the pedal from striking the ground....
    As has been said, the BB is about an inch higher than a standard bike so that's not really a problem. For me, what can be a bit hairy is having to continue to turn the cranks in while negotiating a wet oil spill on a roundabout, crossing tram lines at an angle or dealing with errant pedestrians.


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    #41
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    Wishbone Ash wrote: »
    As has been said, the BB is about an inch higher than a standard bike so that's not really a problem. For me, what can be a bit hairy is having to continue to turn the cranks in while negotiating a wet oil spill on a roundabout, crossing tram lines at an angle or dealing with errant pedestrians.

    As in the risk of toe overlap?


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    #42
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,445 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Wishbone Ash wrote: »
    As has been said, the BB is about an inch higher than a standard bike so that's not really a problem. For me, what can be a bit hairy is having to continue to turn the cranks in while negotiating a wet oil spill on a roundabout, crossing tram lines at an angle or dealing with errant pedestrians.

    I'd be the opposite, because it forces you to keep spinning, you don't over think the issue and end up causing yourself to fall but I have no proof of this.


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    #43
    ILIKEFOOD
    Registered Users Posts: 675 ✭✭✭ILIKEFOOD


    defo can be done, i see a lad do much of that route on a fixie..but he's a bit of a beast (UCD gear on). i have a fixie (use the single speed flip flop hub) and i do that route (up to clonkeen) but opted out in favour of gears. Nice to have the gears on those days you're a bit tired after work.


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    #44
    souter
    Registered Users Posts: 633 ✭✭✭souter


    fwiw I've been commuting a smaller distance (8 km each way, flat) for years, rain and shine, on a fixie. And I love it.
    But this trope about fixie being zero maintenance needs to be put in perspective:
    a) when you puncture, you don't have quick release on the rear wheel - so carry a big spanner
    b) throwing the chain will happen and make your hands very messy
    c) chain tensioning is a bit of art in itself.


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    #45
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,741 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    souter wrote: »
    fwiw I've been commuting a smaller distance (8 km each way, flat) for years, rain and shine, on a fixie. And I love it.
    But this trope about fixie being zero maintenance needs to be put in perspective:
    a) when you puncture, you don't have quick release on the rear wheel - so carry a big spanner
    b) throwing the chain will happen and make your hands very messy
    c) chain tensioning is a bit of art in itself.

    On a): can you not just patch the tube without taking off the wheel? That's what I do with the bakfiets, given that getting the rear wheel off is a really big deal, and the front wheel a fairly big deal. Then you don't have all the fuss of chain tensioning after.


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    #46
    eeeee
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,820 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    I have a light little fixie spanner that goes on my bottle cage with a 15m spanner on one end and a c spanner on the other.
    Chain tensioning is grand, even if you don't know what you're doing, a tight chain will eventually wear into a lose one.
    I run mine with lots of #track slack cos it's faster and easier to pedal.
    The chain does come off sometimes, twice on a year, but only if you're slowing down over rough ground, it stays on 100%of other times.

    They're a hill of a lot less maintenance than a geared bike, orders of magnitude less.
    So much simpler.
    It's my favourite bike. She went from winning national medals on track to being the ultimate commuter. It's incredibly reliable.
    I do need to sort out more permanent mudguards though, I need to drill out the holes for the mounts to 10mm.
    But a street fixie is built for that stuff way better than a track bike.


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    #47
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    souter wrote: »
    fwiw I've been commuting a smaller distance (8 km each way, flat) for years, rain and shine, on a fixie. And I love it.
    But this trope about fixie being zero maintenance needs to be put in perspective:
    a) when you puncture, you don't have quick release on the rear wheel - so carry a big spanner
    b) throwing the chain will happen and make your hands very messy
    c) chain tensioning is a bit of art in itself.

    I don't think it's characterised as "zero", rather "low".

    a) A normal 14/15 ring spanner will do and there are some made that are more "carryable" I have a backpack with me everywhere so mine is in there.
    b) I've never thrown a chain, only snapped them
    c) Chain tensioning takes a process:

    Wheel out
    Chain around front sprocket and over rear axle
    Slam wheel whole way into dropouts (or as far as possible)
    Chain over rear sprocket
    Pull wheel back til tight
    Tighten nonsprocket side first then other; do both by hand til tight. Enough to hold wheel
    Check alignment, loosen and correct and tighten til you're happy
    Tighten whole thing, starting with non-drive side, done

    Not trying to deny it's not easy, and I've had a lot of practice with above having to change sprockets, etc between races, but I do find it easier than replacing a QR rear wheel, but I just need more practice with that.
    I like my chains tight, no track slack on road


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    #48
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,445 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    a) A normal 14/15 ring spanner will do
    I have a little pedal one that would fit in your pocket without being noticed that does the job.
    b) I've never thrown a chain, only snapped them
    I've done both but only once each, first was too loose and the second too tight, lazy on my part as I knew it in both instants that I hadn't done it right.
    c) Chain tensioning takes a process:
    I find it quite easy when the wheel is back in, pull it back by hand, tighten nuts by hand, if chain is too loose, tighten one nut slightly and loosen the other, push wheel to the side to make the loose nut go back (I have heard people call it walking it back?!?). Tighten that and loosen the other and let the wheel straighten, check tension again. Continue on alternating sides but usually only needs to be done once if at all. Too check if it is too tight, lift wheel of ground and spin, tap the chain between the sprocket and the crankset with your small spanner as it spins. It will likely have slight variations in tension due to non roundness of chainring but only a little. If it does not move slightly the whole way round or it slows quickly, it is to tight.

    Only for the time digging the spanner out of your pocket, it does not take longer to remove a wheel than a QR. It can occasionally take a slight bit longer to replace the rear wheel but rarely once you are practiced.


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    #49
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    Which spanners are you guys using?


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    #50
    cdaly_
    Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    c) Chain tensioning takes a process:

    My process, back in the days of sloping dropouts was:
    1. Pull wheel all the way back.
    2. Tighten drive side nut
    3. Centre wheel in chainstays
    4. Tighten other nut

    That was the way in the days of single speed as a kid and later with derailleur in sloping dropouts.

    Dunno how well that works with straight dropouts (dropbacks?).


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    #51
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,445 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    Which spanners are you guys using?

    I got a free one with a bike i ordered for attaching the pedals presumably. Looks like this one but a bit smaller:
    cyclo-pedal-spanner-15mm-EV170712-9999-1.jpg


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    #52
    Wishbone Ash
    Registered Users Posts: 24,952 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    souter wrote: »
    ...a) when you puncture, you don't have quick release on the rear wheel - so carry a big spanner...
    Eliminate that problem by fitting Tannus tyres. No need to carry any tools/tubes etc. and even more maintenance free. ;)


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    #53
    Wishbone Ash
    Registered Users Posts: 24,952 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    Which spanners are you guys using?
    Standard 15mm ring spanner from any hardware shop for a few quid.


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    #54
    Oberkon
    Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭Oberkon


    Wishbone Ash wrote: »
    Eliminate that problem by fitting Tannus tyres. No need to carry any tools/tubes etc. and even more maintenance free. ;)

    What are they like in reality ?


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    #55
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,741 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Yeah, a pedal spanner would do the trick, but it might snap after a while? I don't know. It's just a lot thinner than a normal spanner, and intended for a low-torque function. Funnily enough I bought a 15mm stubby spanner (Laser 2812: about 12cm long) hoping to use it as a pedal spanner, but it was too thick. It's an excellent spanner for wheel nuts though, and it's handy for the bakfiets. I recognise all the descriptions of chain tensioning here, because I have to do something very similar for the bakfiets (hub gear), though the correct tension is probably not as important there. But too tight and you can't really pedal and too loose and the noise of the chain on the chain case is really annoying.


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    #56
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    Wishbone Ash wrote: »
    Standard 15mm ring spanner from any hardware shop for a few quid.

    That’s what I use. I prefer ring spammers too. Other spanners have tendency to slip and damage the nuts. The wheel nuts.


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    #57
    Harrybelafonte
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,450 ✭✭✭Harrybelafonte


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    Yeah, a pedal spanner would do the trick, but it might snap after a while? I don't know. It's just a lot thinner than a normal spanner, and intended for a low-torque function. Funnily enough I bought a 15mm stubby spanner (Laser 2812: about 12cm long) hoping to use it as a pedal spanner, but it was too thick. It's an excellent spanner for wheel nuts though, and it's handy for the bakfiets. I recognise all the descriptions of chain tensioning here, because I have to do something very similar for the bakfiets (hub gear), though the correct tension is probably not as important there. But too tight and you can't really pedal and too loose and the noise of the chain on the chain case is really annoying.

    I have to do similar on the Bullitt. That’s a bike I really don’t like getting punctures on.


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    #58
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,741 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    I have to do similar on the Bullitt. That’s a bike I really don’t like getting punctures on.
    I just patch in situ. It takes about ten minutes, but you don't have to go near the chain, wheel nuts or any of that.


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    #59
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,741 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Harrybelafonte wrote: »
    That’s what I use. I prefer ring spammers too. Other spanners have tendency to slip and damage the nuts. The wheel nuts.

    The Laser one I use sounds a bit like the one eeeee mentioned. It has a ring end and an open end, both 15mm. It's really excellent: long enough to give you the right torque, but small enough to carry around in a small toolkit. (Good clarification on the nuts.)


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    #60
    souter
    Registered Users Posts: 633 ✭✭✭souter


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    On a): can you not just patch the tube without taking off the wheel? That's what I do with the bakfiets, given that getting the rear wheel off is a really big deal, and the front wheel a fairly big deal. Then you don't have all the fuss of chain tensioning after.
    Never thought of that, though I'm a bit hit and miss with patching so I always put a new tube on and do it at my leisure later.


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    #61
    Wishbone Ash
    Registered Users Posts: 24,952 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Oberkon wrote: »
    What are they like in reality ?
    Fine for commuting - little bit harsh on a longer ride (although I've done a 120k on them). A bit less grip than a standard tyre too so I just take it easier on wet roundabouts etc. I have about 15,000kms put up on a pair on my main commuting bike and have just fitted another pair to my secondary commuter bike. Great peace of mind.


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