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Wiring to a shed

  • 29-10-2020 2:06pm
    #1
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    Just wondering would the following be safe for wiring a shed from a house?

    The shed is located about 5 metres from the kitchen at the back of the house so I was thinking I could tap into one of the kitchen sockets near the back door. I would basically be creating a spur off of the kitchen socket ring and running 2.5mm T&E wire (shielded or run in a conduit) down along a garden fence and into the shed.

    I'd like three sockets in the shed, which sounds like a bit much on a spur maybe, but would it be ok if I ensured there was a fused connector unit (13a) at the start of the spur?

    Just for clarity, nothing heavy runs in the shed, no welders or large machines, the odd small power tool or soldering iron.


Comments

  • #2
    aido79
    Moderators, Regional Abroad Moderators Posts: 5,374 Mod ✭✭✭✭aido79


    Fabio wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Just wondering would the following be safe for wiring a shed from a house?

    The shed is located about 5 metres from the kitchen at the back of the house so I was thinking I could tap into one of the kitchen sockets near the back door. I would basically be creating a spur off of the kitchen socket ring and running 2.5mm T&E wire (shielded or run in a conduit) down along a garden fence and into the shed.

    I'd like three sockets in the shed, which sounds like a bit much on a spur maybe, but would it be ok if I ensured there was a fused connector unit (13a) at the start of the spur?

    Just for clarity, nothing heavy runs in the shed, no welders or large machines, the odd small power tool or soldering iron.

    There's very little chance that an electrician will agree to wire a shed like this but would I be right in assuming you going to do this yourself?. It's only slightly better than running an extension lead down to the shed from the kitchen and plugging everything into it.


  • #3
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    aido79 wrote: »
    There's very little chance that an electrician will agree to wire a shed like this but would I be right in assuming you going to do this yourself?. It's only slightly better than running an extension lead down to the shed from the kitchen and plugging everything into it.

    To be honest, that's what I'm doing at the moment and I'm not terribly happy with that. It works and the most I run off of it is an LED light but still...


  • #4
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Fabio wrote: »
    It works and the most I run off of it is an LED light but still...

    It’s not the worst design I have heard of.

    To improve:
    - Feed the shed from a spur outlet from the ring circuit so as to ensure the shed cable has protection. Otherwise it any only be “protected” by a 32A MCB.
    - Use an SWA to supply the shed.
    - Bury the SWA at least 2 feet.

    Obviously a dedicated circuit fed from the main distribution board and a sub distribution board in the shed would be best.

    Regarding the above (quoted part), please understand that you have no way of guaranteeing what size loads will be plugged in to the shed sockets by others for evermore.


  • #5
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    2011 wrote: »
    It’s not the worst design I have heard of.

    To improve:
    - Feed the shed from a spur outlet from the ring circuit so as to ensure the shed cable has protection. Otherwise it any only be “protected” by a 32A MCB.
    - Use an SWA to supply the shed.
    - Bury the SWA at least 2 feet.

    Obviously a dedicated circuit fed from the main distribution board and a sub distribution board in the shed would be best.

    Regarding the above (quoted part), please understand that you have no way of guaranteeing what size loads will be plugged in to the shed sockets by others for evermore.

    You're absolutely right.

    Any idea of a ballpark figure to have a professional do a proper job? I'm handy with this stuff but, given what you say about not being able to predict what may or may not be plugged into the shed by others in the future maybe I should er on the side of caution.


  • #6
    JimToken
    Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    The point 2011 made is a good one

    You sell the house and the shed sockets should be fit for general use


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  • #7
    PatrickSmithUS
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 263 ✭✭PatrickSmithUS


    Would you be covered by insurance if anything went wrong with this system?


  • #8
    seamus
    Registered Users Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    Fabio wrote: »
    Any idea of a ballpark figure to have a professional do a proper job?
    Looking at other threads, set aside €2k for the job and you should have a good chunk of change left over if it's very straightforward work.


  • #9
    JimToken
    Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    PatrickSmithUS wrote: »
    Would you be covered by insurance if anything went wrong with this system?

    Insurance , pirs etc.

    All new work should be done to current rules


  • #10
    ted1
    Registered Users Posts: 23,249 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    JimToken wrote: »
    Insurance , pirs etc.

    All new work should be done to current rules

    If it puts a three pin socket on it , it’s just an extension lead.


  • #11
    tweek84
    Registered Users Posts: 341 ✭✭tweek84


    2011 wrote: »
    It’s not the worst design I have heard of.

    To improve:
    - Feed the shed from a spur outlet from the ring circuit so as to ensure the shed cable has protection. Otherwise it any only be “protected” by a 32A MCB.
    - Use an SWA to supply the shed.
    - Bury the SWA at least 2 feet.

    Obviously a dedicated circuit fed from the main distribution board and a sub distribution board in the shed would be best.

    Regarding the above (quoted part), please understand that you have no way of guaranteeing what size loads will be plugged in to the shed sockets by others for evermore.

    All underground cabling power cable is to be a minimum 6mm2


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  • #12
    JimToken
    Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    tweek84 wrote: »
    All underground cabling power cable is to be a minimum 6mm2

    What's this?


  • #13
    tweek84
    Registered Users Posts: 341 ✭✭tweek84


    JimToken wrote: »
    What's this?
    714.522.8.03 The cross-sectional area of phase (line) and neutral conductors in underground cable
    shall be not less than 6mm2.


  • #14
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    tweek84 wrote: »
    714.522.8.03 The cross-sectional area of phase (line) and neutral conductors in underground cable
    shall be not less than 6mm2.

    My version of ET101 has 714.522.8.02 but no 714.522.8.03
    I guess that my version is too old. I would question the logic of this to be honest.

    When I look in I.S. 10101 is states that:
    "The cross-sectional area of phase (line) and neutral conductors in underground cable shall be not less than 6mm^2 for street lighting."


  • #15
    JimToken
    Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    There's no such rule re swa obviously

    Public lighting cable is 6sq alright last time I used it


  • #16
    JimToken
    Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    I've an 8.02 it seems to be in relation to public lighting


  • #17
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Thanks all for the replies.


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