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Ford Transit conversion to camper MKII

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Finished off the floor....


    IMG-20201107-150611.jpg

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Decided to quit faffing around today and get the skylight installed.

    Cut out the hole, and cleaned off the gunge from around the hole. Filed down the edges and painted with anti rust primer and sealed the thing in with Tigerseal. I know the de facto is sikaflex 522, but there's not much difference in the two, and the former is permanently flexible

    Advice I found around was to put the sealer into a bucket of warm water. If it's warm it's easier to apply, and it really was. Made life so much easier to do it.

    As for the ridges, I filled the gaps with more sealer, so I'm hoping and it looks like its a good seal all round.

    I've put 4 screws, one in each corner and I got rained off (stainless steel self tappers). I may add the remaining screws around the light tomorrow if the weather holds.

    IMG-20201107-160708.jpg

    You may be able to see that the very top of the above image the sealer over a seam has a chunk missing and was leaking, albeit a teeny tiny bit. I also cleaned this out and re-sealed it with tigerseal.

    IMG-20201107-165719.jpg

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    That’s a fine size of a shelf.

    Its massive in fairness


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    sealed the thing in with Tigerseal. I know the de facto is sikaflex 522


    I used bitumous mastic on mine after spending 2 days removing them and cleaning the fallout to fix a leak. One might argue that the screws are for retention, the sealant is for sealing and adhesives are not the best option if you want it to be reversible.


    there's not much difference in the two, and the former is permanently flexible


    Agreed

    Advice I found around was to put the sealer into a bucket of warm water. If it's warm it's easier to apply, and it really was. Made life so much easier to do it.


    Gem....I've always cut the nozzle bigger. I'm gonna try that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Windows today, or should I say window. Arguably this proved to be a bit more problematic than first thought.


    Cut out the hole for the window, simple enough, and I painted the bare metal with rust inhibiting primer. Cut the straight lines with the grinder and the corners with a jigsaw from the outside. I could've sworn the panel I cut out was heaver than the glass going in.

    IMG-20201108-142254.jpg

    IMG-20201108-144835.jpg

    I noticed that the outer skin had become undone from the frames of the van. The factory sealer had broken away. My concern was that there would be excessive wobbling since the skin wasn't bonded and the window was fixed to it, so I added some tiger seal before I put the window seal rubber around it. Given that the rubber seal was going to pull the two together to allow the tigerseal to grip

    IMG-20201108-144842.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    The black tint on the portions of the window that's obscured by the panel wasn't great in some spots, so the yellow of the panel would come through. Figured this would be a problem if that part of the van was painted black and we could no longer access it, so I used a rattle can to paint the black on the inside.

    As I've said before, I intend to have the middle panel of the van where the window goes. Given this, there would've been some yellow sitting behind the glass and around the edges that you wouldn't get to paint too easily, so I sanded and painted the panel satin black. It looks messy now, but I've cleaned off all the overspray with thinners except for the top. I'm leaving the tape on overnight.

    Since this window isn't a single piece, it didn't sit flush against the body, so it needed a little 'persuasion' though, once you pressed then glass in fully it didn't come out again.

    Sadly it was dark before I finished so no photos without all the timbers and clamps yet.

    IMG-20201108-153845.jpg

    IMG-20201108-162012.jpg



    I also have these two windows for the back of the van, and these are hinged windows. The Jury's still out on if I'll actually fit them or not. I think they'll be more of a problem with the bed going there and so on.

    Screenshot-2020-11-08-at-19-46-18.png


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Fitted the power outlet today too, and finished off the waxoyling of the chassis underneath. Since I had some extra left over, I also did the inside bottom of the panels in the van.

    IMG_20201108_162642.jpg

    IMG_20201108_162647.jpg


    Given how things are turning out, I like the idea of what colm_mcm has done with his windows on the inside, so I may do something with a frame on them to tidy it up inside of the van. Will make fitting curtains easier too.


    Again, heating the sealers / paints made a world of difference to applying them


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Yer power outlet is missing the socket. I've never seen a blank before.
    Nice thinking I thought I'd be the first to put an outlet on a camper.
    Are ya putting an inlet beside it? :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Yer power outlet is missing the socket. I've never seen a blank before.
    Nice thinking I thought I'd be the first to put an outlet on a camper.
    Are ya putting an inlet beside it? :P

    Yeah, its to power the campsite from the solar system that'll be on the van.

    But no, I didn't put the socket into it yet. It's on the dashboard atm.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Yeah, its to power the campsite from the solar system that'll be on the van.


    Ha me too! I've 7kVA on standby anna 60A Charge controller.
    Fit a meter so you can bill your neighbours.


    I usually donate it so they'll turn off the bleedin' hondas.

    Haveya ever heard of DynaWatts or Dometic Travel Power Packs?
    3.5kW alternator generator-inverters. ~400V at the engine, converted down and regulated internally. Amazing yolks. That'd be a good shout if you are going second alternator.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 73,365 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Looks cool!

    There’s a little plastic slip you can get to fill the gap in front of the windows, a lot of the minibuses have them. That’s where I ‘found’ these

    7_F8_BB3_F7-_CD59-443_C-8119-184_AA94_DF124.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Looks cool!

    There’s a little plastic slip you can get to fill the gap in front of the windows, a lot of the minibuses have them. That’s where I ‘found’ these

    Yeah, I got them too from the bus I got the windows from. Apparently they only come on minibuses and they seem to get stolen quite regularly.

    Doubt I'll fit them yet though


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Bad day at the office this week.

    Both the skylight and the window are leaking, and what's worse its my own fault as to why they are.

    I didn't use enough tigerseal on the skylight and there was a teeny tiny hole where water was able to get in. When I was looking at it, I also noticed that since I didn't use all the screw holes to fix to the bodywork there was a lot of flex in the roof around it which would cause gaps and leaks. I've re-sealed it and fixed in screws in all the holes. When I know it's water tight I'll re-fix the timber support underneath on the inside of the roof.

    When I was fitting the window on the van, I put the rubber seal on both the outer skin and the inside panel on the opening. The result of this is that it pushes the gap on the glass out to be larger than it needs to be in order to bond the window, and since I was too stingy with the sealer there were small holes and so water ingress. I've seen videos of people fitting windows who didn't put the seal on the outside. Makes sense when you think of it.

    IMG-20201108-153843.jpg

    I managed to fix one of the leaks at the top, but discovered a much bigger one. End result is that this is coming out again tomorrow and it's being re-done. I'm not sure if I'll actually use the rubber seal or not, since I plan to rip off colm_mcm's idea of building a square frame inside the glass.

    I'm not going to lie, I was royally fucked off at this, so much to the point that I contemplated selling the bastard and being done with it. I didn't do myself any favours either: it was late, cold, wet, after a days work and considering I couldn't remember where I just put that thing that I had in my hand I knew it was a time to call it a night - hence no photos. If I ever do this again, there'll be no fucking windows or skylights - mark my words!

    My first bad day on the build so not bad over all. Will spend my weekend re-doing my cock up, and if I don't lose the plot I may fit the other one to the sliding door.

    We live and learn, or at least I do anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Seconds out, round two!

    Whipped out the window today using a removal tool. I'll add that this was much simpler to do than cutting through the original factory sealer that was on the minibus.
    When the window was out it was blindingly obvious where the leak was, there was a tiny gap in the sealer that hand't merged together when the window was pressed in.

    I re-primed the cut around the opening again and said I wouldn't bother with the rubber strip this time. No one's going to notice it and I'm not running the risk of having to tackle this again.

    All re-painted and ready to go again:
    IMG-20201121-165314.jpg

    I also took the tinting off the glass. Primarily cos it was a pox of a job that i did on it in the first place and If I get it re-done professionally at a later time, I didn't want some of this stuff sitting behind the steel panel that couldn't be got out.
    Never underestimate the importance of heat. I used a heat gun on the rubber sealer and it made such a difference to removing it you wouldn't believe.

    IMG-20201121-165329.jpg

    I boiled the kettle and put the tube of sealer into a tub of hot water and left it to warm up. You wouldn't believe the difference it made to applying it to to the glass. I also used this trick on the spray paint too.

    Stuck the glass in again, making sure it was pressed in fully all the way around and added some trademark tape to keep it in place. You can see inside that some of the sealer is oozing in, so to me that's a good indicator that it's a tight seal. Will do a water test tomorrow to verify.

    IMG-20201121-170437.jpg

    IMG-20201121-171722.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    More of the same today really, out with the old and in with the new. Did the same with this side as the other, painted behind the glass black...

    IMG-20201122-145852.jpg

    Started this outside, and naturally it started to rain, so had to move inside

    IMG-20201122-161425.jpg

    Had half an hour before I finished up so I started doing some insulation. This is that recycled bottle stuff that I've started putting in. Finally, something campervan related to be getting into

    IMG-20201122-172557.jpg

    IMG-20201122-172600.jpg

    I could've sworn I took some more photos of the job as I was doing it, but I can't seem to find them now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,365 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    That’s a dose having to redo it but easier now than in a few months!

    Wouldn’t be any harm to seal all the roof joins and make sure the roof is stuck to the ribs properly before you insulate the ceiling.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    That’s a dose having to redo it but easier now than in a few months!

    Wouldn’t be any harm to seal all the roof joins and make sure the roof is stuck to the ribs properly before you insulate the ceiling.

    Don't I know it!

    Roof to the ribs is good. The only place it's not bonded is in the last photo above where that ridge for a skylight is. Bit of a stupid place for a skylight really since there's a rib going through it.

    Some of the sealer was gone on one of the roof seams which I replaced with tigerseal. Now that you mention it, it may be a worthwhile exercise just re-doing them all. Water ingress is a bastard.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Sir Liamalot;
    What gauge cable should I be running to my leisure battery(ies) on the assumption that I have a battery to battery charger at the front of the van?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    How much power dya want?
    What unit are you fitting?
    Have I convinced you 24V is the future?

    What size is the Alternator?

    Roughly (usually works well):
    35mm² Thin Wall Automotive (closer 25mm² if you measure it)
    or
    35mm² TriRated Panel Flex (genuine)
    Elandflex or Eland weldflex is genuine too and high quality.

    Red agus Black.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    How much power dya want?
    What unit are you fitting?
    Have I convinced you 24V is the future?

    What size is the Alternator?

    Roughly (usually works well):
    35mm² Thin Wall Automotive (closer 25mm² if you measure it)
    or
    35mm² TriRated Panel Flex (genuine)
    Elandflex or Eland weldflex is genuine too and high quality.

    Red agus Black.

    In this case, reality bites.
    I would really love to do everything perfectly and the right way, and yes everything is cheaper on 24V, because maths. I want all the things and I want them installed the right way money being no object.

    That said, I have lights, water pumps and a fridge (if I use it) all currently running on 12v. It's likely that the van will only be used a few times a year so that needs to be considered in the case of what I spend on the thing as is. Hence why I'm not bothered by solar (for example) just yet and I'm mindful of spends. Yes, I'd like to be able to add it later, but it's not make or break for me at the moment.

    I want shit done now, and to get it to a point like where my last van was. Then I can consider it a continual improvement and keep tinkering with it over time.


    Why such a large diameter cable? Is it to reduce the voltage drop?


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Eh grand, I like it when things work, most don't & those that do cost big bucks.
    I just buy used reliable gear as a middle ground. It works very well.
    I've spent a lottov dough on mutton dressed as lamb, ya know...buy product, test product, bin product, etc...


    Er that's a medium diameter by my standards.
    Because you didn't answer any questions.
    It's 100A capable (a little over 150A really) and you'll get 100A over it if you do it right.
    Most fitters use 2.5mm² > 10mm² basically current limiting the system with a cable. AKA making it shyte. expect 15A to 30A if yer lucky. Then they put a 10A abortion fridge downstream..:rolleyes:

    If you aren't getting 100A from a 150A alternator then yer doing it wrong in my opinion.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    How much power dya want?
    What unit are you fitting?
    Have I convinced you 24V is the future?

    What size is the Alternator?

    Roughly (usually works well):
    35mm² Thin Wall Automotive (closer 25mm² if you measure it)
    or
    35mm² TriRated Panel Flex (genuine)
    Elandflex or Eland weldflex is genuine too and high quality.

    Red agus Black.

    Note to self - read posts thoroughly..

    Alternator? I don't know. Factory engine is 2.2L CR TC I4 DSL 125 PS so whatever comes with that

    How much power do I want? I don't have a figure, but it doesn't need to be massive. Power a fridge, with some led lights and a 2.5kw inverter maybe. couple of small 12v water pumps too. Also needs to run the 12v heater but that wouldn't be a constant draw.

    Unit - what do you mean by unit?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Alternator? I don't know. Factory engine is 2.2L CR TC I4 DSL 125 PS so whatever comes with that


    Note to Mr T;



    Do yer own homework. :p
    I've no problem giving free advise, but I got other gigs man.
    You have the alternator in your back yard.


    but it doesn't need to be massive.2.5kw inverter maybe.
    :pac: That's a 400A @ 12V circuit allowing for surge loading...



    Unit - what do you mean by unit?



    Well if you want to ignore the second alternator method and spend more on less like a 50A battery to battery unit sharing an alternator instead of a reliable 150A aux alternator then you can use smaller cable because them Sterling "50A Input" Units are probably 40A output units (judging by their 120A input units producing 90A only).

    For the "50A" Sterling example you can use 10mm² from the engine battery/alternator to the box and 25mm² outtov the box to the battery. The ground is hardwired to the box, factory undersized as a supplementary ground with an inline fuse for liability insurance.



    Batteries to battery units are a scam, very niche applications. Most are limited to ~30A and mad money. If you get a scrap Bosch alternator and some mounts then you're only limited by the alternator rating and the belt traction.



    So is it 24V alternator time yet? :o



    Cable size depends on application. 35mm² will cover most eventualities if you wanna be lazy.

    Er that's a medium diameter by my standards.



    Just for some perspective I'm probably wiring the truck with 250mm² (3 x 95mm² sets), 400V 4kVA alternator with stock 24v redundancy & 2.5mm² onboard mains radials.




    Yerself an Colm are wryly entertaining to me. Highly polished furnishings and internals, neat elegant joinery etc.... Wood is just a chassis for hardware to me. I commit to cut twice measure twice technique, rough sawn eyeballed birch ply and screw cups.
    She'll be decidedly unpolished, functional, reliable, strong, rugged and power a village, no right angles (compounded the error til it fits). Party at yours?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]




    Interesting possible alternative to yer Eber display.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    I'm probably wiring the truck...400V 4kVA alternator


    Having second thoughts about that after I realised that 24V 100A twins are 5kW. :D


    Anyone making differential mounted Alternators?
    I've seen PTO generators...serious machines. :cool:


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,365 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Might I interject here!

    If all you’re running is a fridge and a few lights and a space heater, surely all you need is a basic split charger (depending on the transit alternator, don’t think it’s a smart alternator?) and a cheap leisure battery and a basic fuse box?

    Much as it would be class to do something OTT, to fit your actual requirements you don’t (in my unqualified opinion) need anything elaborate.


    Forgot to add. The inverter is the only fly in the ointment. If it’s for cooking then why not just use gas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    If it’s for cooking then why not just use gas?

    I intend to. I don't want to over engineer this project, but I like to have nice things too


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    In defense of the 24V solution you can still run 12v appliances with a DC-DC converter.

    My campervan might as well not have an inverter for the amount I use it. But I am pulling 90A off the alternator for months every Winter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,365 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I intend to. I don't want to over engineer this project, but I like to have nice things too

    What are you thinking of running if the inverter? Or would you just like the freedom to be able to run something?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    What are you thinking of running if the inverter? Or would you just like the freedom to be able to run something?

    Freedom really, but possibly a fridge. When I'm a bit further on I'll be looking to check the existing fridge to see if I can fix it, or look to a 240v fridge. I know I can get my hands on an under counter jobbie for free, but that might be too big and clunky. An alternative would be something like a wine cooler. Granted there'd be no freezer in it, but realistically how often would it be used?

    Can't all be buying fancy ones like the one you have. :P

    I have sockets in the old van but were only wired to the 240 hookup.
    I have a mind for a switched system which goes to 240 when plugged in but switches over to the inverter when the power is unplugged.


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