Boards.ie uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Click here to find out more x
Post Reply  
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
16-12-2015, 13:34   #76
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_tarbucket View Post
How are things going since pryantcc?
Hi Tom, thanks for asking! Things have slowed a bit but not stopped.

I've been basically stripping. I've pulled out all the glass, wiring and vacuum piping. Removed remaining trim, door locks, handles, etc. Had a lot of hardship removing the sun roof. It looks like it wasn't the original and rather a shoe-horned in version from some other car. Lots of it was stuck in with tiger seal or something similar. I finally decided to dump it and weld up the hole which allowed me to take the grinder to it to aid removal! There was just too much potential for problems with leaking seals/drains etc., and the Irish climate doesn't really present a whole lot of sunroof weather. All the lights, etc. are off now and really it's ready to start blasting and welding.
I got a bit of a bonus at work so bought a new windscreen (old one was de-laminating) and new tyres.
pryantcc is offline  
(2) thanks from:
Advertisement
02-01-2016, 12:09   #77
chevyvan
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 1
Hey there,

Your thread has been a great motivation to me, I've put this engine into a 1953 Chevy van and have been struggling for a month with the wiring issues as my key won't turn yet, probably because of the steering wheel sensor, not as easy as I thought even though I have the whole loom!

So I've gone from mildly depressed about it to seeing a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel after reading about your project. I had been wondering about the gearbox but what you have done is an excellent way to resolve the limp home issues.

So although I'm in the hotrodding world, thanks for posting all of your work on here and good luck with the rest of the build.

Ady
chevyvan is offline  
Thanks from:
03-01-2016, 00:35   #78
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyvan View Post
Hey there,

Your thread has been a great motivation to me, I've put this engine into a 1953 Chevy van and have been struggling for a month with the wiring issues as my key won't turn yet, probably because of the steering wheel sensor, not as easy as I thought even though I have the whole loom!

So I've gone from mildly depressed about it to seeing a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel after reading about your project. I had been wondering about the gearbox but what you have done is an excellent way to resolve the limp home issues.

So although I'm in the hotrodding world, thanks for posting all of your work on here and good luck with the rest of the build.

Ady
Glad you found it helpful Ady, PM me if you have any specific questions and I'll try to help out.
pryantcc is offline  
06-02-2016, 15:15   #79
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Update time!
Mechanical work is essentially complete except for some aesthetic work to make the rear axle conversion look nicer. Next step is to patch the rusty bits. With this in mind, everything is stripped again and the car was moved to my friend's place for him to do the welding. We left the axles under it for ease of transport and loaded it onto the trailer for shipment. I could have towed it but had removed pedals, etc so was without brakes.


I forgot to photograph the new engine mounts at the time and the engine has been on top of them since, so here's a picture. These 2 beefy lumps of plate are welded to the front subframe just inside where the original engine mounts were and the rubber mounts bolt onto them.


Once moved, I adapted the front seats from the donor E300 Merc to fit the original seat rails. The old seats are pretty tired and don't have headrests, etc. The colours match and the more modern ones don't look too badly out of place. The floor needs a good bit of patching and removal of some old bodged repairs and it was always the plan to put the car on a rotisserie thing so it could be spun. After a very brief look online at the prices and quality of what is available, we decided to make our own. My welder friend knocked it up from scrap in just 3 evenings work!






The car will be mounted to it by the bumper mounting points. In readiness for lifting I took off the doors and front wings. The axles will be left behid as it's lifted onto the rotisserie.
pryantcc is offline  
11-02-2016, 11:03   #80
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
She's airborne!

Axles/subframes removed along with steering column and steering box. It's already so convenient having it up like this and clear, well lit access to the underside.


I has been obvious from the time I looked at the car with a view to buying it that it has been at the hands of a body shop that is in love with filler. The underside had lots of clearly visible and poorly applied filler over the repairs. A little minor investigation of a rear wheel arch last night revealed what can be seen in the photo below with my index finger for scale. There's no obvious reason for it, the metal behind it looks like it was sound enough before the filler went on even though some rust has been working away underneath it since.
pryantcc is offline  
Advertisement
29-03-2016, 23:58   #81
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Work continues! I had a batch of small bits and pieces ready for blasting and painting.



The power steering box was one of them. It had always been leaking so I bought a seal kit and stripped it down.
I blocked up all the holes & blasted it along with my other brackets, suspension arms and small bits. It wasn't until I was geting it all ready for spraying that I noticed what seemed to be an oily patch on the outside of the steering box casing.




It turned out to be a hairline crack!



It also turned out that the steering box is made of cast iron which apparently doesn't take too well to welding due to differences in expansion and contraction rates in response to heat. So, I took it out to my welder friend to see what he could do. We ground out the crack and heated the whole lot to about 300 degrees Centigrade. He then TIG welded it up and we stuck it back in the oven to cool slowly overnight. Thankfully it hadn't cracked when examined in the morning!





Now it's back in the queue for blasting and will be painted up and re-assembled with new seals.
pryantcc is offline  
27-05-2016, 11:38   #82
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Steering box is done. painted and re-assembled with new seals:





I've also blasted and primed the home made rear subframe, fuel tank and brake servo.





pryantcc is offline  
09-09-2016, 16:16   #83
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Things have slowed down over the summer and I've given up all pretence that this is just an engine swap, it's a full blown restoration now, for sure! Hopefully I'll have a little more time now to put into it, things are already starting to move again.

The focus at the moment is on the bodywork. There is a bit of a combination of replacing previous bodging as well as chopping out virgin rot and replacing with good steel. Having the car on the spit is absolutely fantastic, a huge help and makes things far more convenient, particularly for the underneath.

So, work started on the passenger side sill area. You can see plenty of metal was chopped out, most of it previous mess:



This is the back end:


And some detail. There is good metal in there, you just have to dig a bit to get to it!



Some patches going in:



Then, once these were done, we wheeled the whole setup outside and blasted the inside of the sill and everything we could get at, painted it all with epoxy and coated all of that with cavity wax. I should say that the jacking points have been intentionally deleted. I didn't like having holes in the sills for them and I can just carry a little bottle jack for changing wheels and jack off some more robust areas. I've no photos of the blasting process, I'm afraid but just imagine lots of dirty lookin stuff, then dust, then nice painted stuff, then this:



It's nice to know the upper sections of the sills are well protected by applying all the goop with the car upside down.


Then to buttoning it all up:



The inside of the sills will be given more cavity wax with the car the right way up to coat the inside of the sill bottoms, and when the whole bottom side of the car is done, the exterior will all be blasted and coated with epoxy primer.
pryantcc is offline  
07-03-2017, 20:44   #84
kizmax
Registered User
 
kizmax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 13
Hi just read your complete thread and fair play it is a great description of a huge amount of work so well done , however having read it I now find myself with 2 e 300 turbo diesels and still wondering which older Mercedes is the easiest fit for a 606
My original plan was a landrover defender but it involves quite a bit of fabrication
I guess I assumed a merc to merc transplant might be the easiest
Can you recommend which model is the handiest
kizmax is offline  
Advertisement
07-03-2017, 22:41   #85
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizmax View Post
I guess I assumed a merc to merc transplant might be the easiest
Can you recommend which model is the handiest
Hi, I can't recommend any model in particular since I've only done the one conversion :-) I can tell you that fitting it into the w108 was pretty straight forward. Have you had a look at the superturbodiesel forum? Quite a few conversions on there. Hold onto those E300s, lads are starting to realise their worth!
pryantcc is offline  
07-03-2017, 23:08   #86
tom_tarbucket
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,041
Pryantcc,


Any updated pics or general updates on how things are coming along ?
tom_tarbucket is offline  
08-03-2017, 16:58   #87
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Hi,
There has been activity but it's not the most interesting stuff. Activity at the moment involves attacking small-ish areas of the car one at a time and working through the following process:
1. Blast off all old paint, filler and rust
2. Chop out rust and previous crappy repairs
3. Cut and form patches from new steel
4. Paint and rust proof any accessible bits that aren't going to interfere with welding in the patch.
5. Weld in the new patch
6. Pretty it up by flattening as far as possible so that the minimum amount of filling will be required at painting stage.
7. Eventually the whole repaired car will be blasted and primed before going for painting.

We started on the passenger side and worked around the car front wheel well, sills, rear wheel well, both rear quarter panels, driver's side rear wheel well and sill are pretty much done. Need to clean, protect and then weld up driver's side sill and move on to front wheel arch. A couple of floor patches have gone in too.


Rear wheeel arch/sill repairs:








Driver's side rear sill rust and previous repairs removed.



Another part of the work was to tidy up the area where we welded in the subframe from the E300 W210 car into this one.
Before:


Then it was blasted and painted where possible in the places that were to be covered to try and get some basic protection in there. Wax will also be injected later.


2 large panels were made to cover the front and the back and make it look more like it belongs. Then we dribbled runny paint everywhere to try and get it to run along the seems. I think it turned out great and will look even better when the whole underneath is cleaned and coated.
pryantcc is offline  
08-03-2017, 19:12   #88
Bigus
Registered User
 
Bigus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,638
At the rate these are going up , you'll be putting it back original and selling it for 35 k 😄
Bigus is offline  
Thanks from:
08-03-2017, 20:25   #89
pryantcc
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigus View Post
At the rate these are going up , you'll be putting it back original and selling it for 35 k 😄
The more desirable the better, Bigus! I hope to have a top class original looking machine that lasts and doesn't break the bank to drive every day. After all this, it'd take a lot to sell it!
pryantcc is offline  
08-03-2017, 21:15   #90
tom_tarbucket
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,041
Any rough idea as to when it will be finished ?

You started about 3 years ago I think.
tom_tarbucket is offline  
Post Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Remove Text Formatting
Bold
Italic
Underline

Insert Image
Wrap [QUOTE] tags around selected text
 
Decrease Size
Increase Size
Please sign up or log in to join the discussion

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



Share Tweet