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Changing cassette advice please

  • 17-09-2019 12:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭


    I presently have a 48/31 chainring with an 11-32t, 11 sprocket cassette.

    I intend changing to a 12-34t, 11 sprocket cassette. The new cassette is Shimano compatible.

    1. Is it simply a case of swapping one for the other or will it be necessary to change the chain length?

    2. Will correct gear indexing be a big job?

    Thanks in advance.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    I’d say you probably won’t need to adjust the indexing - I never have after changing a cassette.
    The chain length might be an issue but I would just go ahead and fit the new cassette and see if it works.
    To check the chain length you should put the chain around the biggest chainring and the biggest sprocket on the cassette without going around the derailleur and you should have 2 full links overlap. With this slightly larger cassette you will have slightly less overlap but it should be ok
    You might have to adjust the B screw to move the derailleur away from the chain when it’s on the biggest sprocket, but you’ll see this once it’s fitted. GCN and parktools have good videos on YouTube for these adjustments


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,705 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    I normally change chain when I'm changing cassette rather than have a new cassette on an older chain. Your low gear is two teeth more so your chain may be too short but there's a fair chance you'd get away with it. Indexing should be ok.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Road.cc had a Shimano oriented article a while back about getting low gearing for gravel bikes They go through a fairly lengthy list of what will work and what won't


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    Danville wrote: »
    I presently have a 48/31 chainring with an 11-32t, 11 sprocket cassette.

    I intend changing to a 12-34t, 11 sprocket cassette. The new cassette is Shimano compatible.

    1. Is it simply a case of swapping one for the other or will it be necessary to change the chain length?

    2. Will correct gear indexing be a big job?

    Thanks in advance.

    48/31 seems to be a big difference, for your chainrings, do you have any problems changing from big ring to small ring?
    Depending what rear derailleur you currently have, you may have to fit a longer cage derailleur.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,705 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Eamonnator wrote: »
    48/31 seems to be a big difference, for your chainrings, do you have any problems changing from big ring to small ring?

    17t difference, big enough but only one more than a 50/34 compact.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    duh


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    Eamonnator wrote: »
    48/31 seems to be a big difference, for your chainrings, do you have any problems changing from big ring to small ring?

    I'm currently running 48/32 rings without problem...


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    I'm currently running 48/32 rings without problem...

    Which is the same difference as 50/34 or 53/36 so what’s your point?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Shimano mechs have a stated maximum sprocket size, which is usually very conservative. However there is a limit - for example, if it is a road, short-cage mech with a max of 30T, you can usually get away with a 32T but a 34T might be a step too far. Your options then are either a "Wolftooth" derailleur mounting bracket or one of the new Shimano RX or GRX mechs.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,705 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Shimano mechs have a stated maximum sprocket size, which is usually very conservative. However there is a limit - for example, if it is a road, short-cage mech with a max of 30T, you can usually get away with a 32T but a 34T might be a step too far. Your options then are either a "Wolftooth" derailleur mounting bracket or one of the new Shimano RX or GRX mechs.

    Ultegra RD-R8000-GS and 105 RD-R7000-GS medium cage are specced at 28T - 34T, see https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/RD-R8000-GS.html If the OP is already at 32T and the bike isn't too old, good possibility it is one of these and existing rear mech will be ok. OP is unlikely to be on short cage as that is only specced to 30T AFAIK.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    smacl wrote: »
    Ultegra RD-R8000-GS and 105 RD-R7000-GS medium cage are specced at 28T - 34T, see https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/RD-R8000-GS.html If the OP is already at 32T and the bike isn't too old, good possibility it is one of these and existing rear mech will be ok. OP is unlikely to be on short cage as that is only specced to 30T AFAIK.

    True, but current 30T road mechs will happily run out to at least 32T - I'm using one. It gets a bit iffy at 34T


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,705 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    True, but current 30T road mechs will happily run out to at least 32T - I'm using one. It gets a bit iffy at 34T

    Any idea if the medium cage would run 36T? Tempted by a GRX mech for the cross bike as I'm currently off and pushing on steeper off road sections.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    smacl wrote: »
    Any idea if the medium cage would run 36T? Tempted by a GRX mech for the cross bike as I'm currently off and pushing on steeper off road sections.

    All the new medium cage (GS) mechs are quoted to 34T -any of the older GS versions eg 105 5800 series are specced to 32T.

    For the newer kit, I'd have zero concerns about pushing it from 34T to 36T, but I haven't tried it myself.

    There used be a nice trick with the compatibility of the Shimano road and MTB kit where you could run a 9 speed MTB mech with 10 speed STI road levers and the MTB mechs were cheaper and easier to get with good capacities. However, that went out the window with the move to 11 speed. (I guess you could run a 10 speed MTB mech with 11 speed road levers using one of those Travel Agent yokes but I think the accumulation of dust, grit and general crap off-road will soon play havoc with the shifting)


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,263 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Your options then are either a "Wolftooth" derailleur mounting bracket
    Cheaper options are available. I used one from aliexpress for over a year (before I changed the derailluer)

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808632946.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dXVwbUH


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,743 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    Cheaper options are available. I used one from aliexpress for over a year (before I changed the derailluer)

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32808632946.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dXVwbUH

    Worth pointing out that all a Woftooth (or other version) will do is mount the derailleur lower, allowing a larger sprocket to be used. It does not give the derailleur any more chain capacity


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Danville


    My Giant Defy had an 11-34 sprocket on it when I bought it in August 2018,along with a 50-34 chainring.

    Have put on the 12-34t with the 48-31 chainring.
    No problems whatsoever.
    Had a 90km cycle last evening and was able to spin up all hills with a high cadence.
    I had previously hated grinding at say 40 rpm with my previous setup.
    Sub-compact is the way to go imo.
    Thanks for all the advice


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