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1967 VW Variant.

1161719212230

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    That rust protection looks suspiciously like Body Schutz ( is that still in use nowadays? ) was very popular at one time, but I guess maybe there are better products on the market now? If you have completed the front section, take heart,,,that's a big bit done. For the sills and the air duct's, they are awkward places. All you can do really, is basically what you have been doing. Cut out what is beyond salvation, and replace it. Sounds simple when you say it fast, but you will have your work cut out for you!! ( excuse the pun....🙄) Good Luck.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Funnily enough, its not schultz, but when I get the channels done, if in doubt I will always cut it out.

    Off out now to sort out a nice slim chisel for a bit of slicing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Well I don't know if you have one or not, but one of the finest chisels I ever used ( for that kind of work) was made from one of the front torsion bars taken from a VW Beetle. Unlike the rear springs, ( which are round bars, with splines on both ends, the front are a set of flat bars fitted together to form a shape that will give a torsion effect. They are fitted through a " Shaped Block" in the centre of the axel beam's, with the ends slotted into corresponding shaped trailer arms, to the front hubs.. I've also used a block layers wide chisel, the one with the rubber buffer between the hammer and your hand.....but for what you are doing now, the VW Chisel is very good.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I know them only too well. I became acquainted with them when I broke all of them when I fell asleep at the wheel on a homeward journey, and hit an oak tree.

    I replaced the bent beam. Well it had a 4 " right angle at the end of it, so there was no disputing it was bent. And then I made throwing knives from some of the short lengths of broken leafs. Great stuff alright.


    I didn,t need the chisel after, as I cut 95% of the heater channel out. If in doubt then **** it out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire



    That was some impact, for sure!!! So the section of the axle beam support was a little bent as well? at the "Ear" ? Yeah, you made the right decision with the heater channel, I'd say. It's what I'd have done too. A pic would be nice.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Current state of play before I trial fit the new channel. I need to remove the end section of the old channel before any trial fit.


    As you can see from the pics, the only salvageable piece of the heater channel is the heater tube, and the front control section to direct heat up to the windscreen defrosters.. The pics show the little tabs holding in the heater tube. Both of which I am keeping as the flap control is functioning perfectly.

    The base of the heater box was well rusted out.









  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    That section under the rubber seal held very well, didn't it? But then, its a part of the floor panel itself, ( chassis if you like) and is made from heavier metal. The heater ducting looks fine too.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Yep, I think I got to it just in time before any damage to the floor pan luckily enough. I also increased the thickness of the heater channel section material from 1mm to 1.2 mm and galvanised. So there is a major improvement.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I manged to cut and trim to size the intended new section. I then trial fitted the piece to make sure it fitted properly to the car , in order that I could mark the attachment holes in the bottom of the floor pan.

    I measured directly on the car to the known datum sections so that I was 100% sure that they were correct. As well as marking up through the bottom of the pan for the fixing locations.


    Channel fitted in nice and snug. Better than paying 800 euro for 2 channels.

    Once its fixed in then the end closing plate is a simple procedure.

    And a trial fit and measure of the heater duct tube says everything is on course. A good days work. I will mark up the other channel from this one before I install this in.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I chose to salvage the mounting plates from the bottom of the rusty heater channel. Reason being the fact that they are a long plate increases the clamping force of the clamping bolt. Thats a good thing. the

    other option I had was t o use flange nuts, and weld them in from the inside of the new channel. As the name suggests a flange nout has a wider flange around one face of the nut facilitate welding. As the originals were good, I went with them and welded them in.



    I cut out the remaining piece of the heater channel to make things more accessible.



    I placed the channel into the position for it, marked it for the mounting bolts, drilled it and welded them in




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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Next task was to fab up a template for the cover panel over the heating duct tube before the outer cill is welded in. because there is an outer cill, some repairers leave out the secondary panel. I wont as it was an original VW part and was always there.

    First job is to make a pattern that fits over the tube, and has room inside the outer cill.

    Simple method of determining the width of the piece required is to shape the piece. Put a strip of masking tape on the profile, mark the lines to measure from, take off the strip and measure. Simples.




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Once i had the template for the secondary outer cill I needed to check that it fitted around the heater tube, and also fitted inside the outer cill. Once that was done, it was onwards and upwards.



    Job done. Next thing is to make 2 panels one for each side.



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 59,714 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gremlinertia


    That is some amazing fab work



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    That outer cill panel you see in the last picture is the only panel available to buy for this car. Its a pressed panel from a modern factory that makes only cill panels and nothing else, in europe. You cannot buy wings, doors, bulkhead panels , front clips , inner clips at all. Unless you are lucky enough to buy either NOS that comes up now and again, or a second hand stock of parts. Its a complete hit and miss affair..


    When i was doing the white fastback I had to make all my panel requirements, big and small . From the largest wing sections, to the front bottom clips as well. On this squareback I was lucky enough to source the 2 front clip panesl which saved me a lot of work. But then having to make the two front bulkhead panels set me back. And now having to make the complete heater channel sections, except the outer rocker cover, was something I didn't bargain for, but I'm working through it now. Any of the remaining panels towards the rear I have already made for the other car, so there wont be any more surprises for me. So I cant take any credit for making the outer pressed panel for this one, although I made them for the other because they were unavailable at the time.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Here is the same type heater channel I made for the fastback that I drive now.

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/Tp50XTw.jpg[/img]



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Heater channel I made for the last fastback that I drive.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    This is all too familiar territory for me thanks to my previous type 3 resto, been there done that as they say.





  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Flange bolts...well I remember them!!! But the "washers" would normally be OK to use, they are pretty heavy, and not really affected by rust. A good cleaning should be enough to restore them for use.

    Fantastic job Kadman, fair play to you!!. And a small suggestion from me. looking at all the presently exposed metalwork , which will be boxed in. I'm not sure what's available currently in the line of rustproofing ( I'm sure that there's some pretty good stuff out there) But the gear I used was a pressure pot filled with a sprayable wax mix, and a long narrow flexible tube fitted, that had a brass head on its end. This end worked just like the head you get on a drain jetter, but it was drilled differently, so that instead of forcing the water out backwards as in the drain model, it forced jets of wax out in every direction. If you drilled a small hole (1/4") in the top of a 20 ltr drum, inserted the sprayer and squeezed the trigger for a few seconds it would completely cover every sq" with a good layer of wax. Just a suggestion from me, but I'm pretty sure that any one who is so thorough and methodical will have this covered as well.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Ha, ha. Thats already been done, those pictures are from the Fastback I am currently driving, this car,


    Less the wheelie bin😁


    Galvanised channels in this one as well, but the outer rockers were mild steel, but I used a bilt hamber product, the name escapes me at the moment. So its well protected, and will get constant maintainence to make sure its good.


    All under the front end and bulkheads I used 2 coats of phosphate primer, 2 red oxide and 4 gravitex stone chip. So thats a good un.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Finally got the inner cill cover made. And after a few checks to make sure there was sufficient clearance between all the components, I checked and double checked again.


    Trial fitting the piece onto the heater channel for clearence

    Then it was fitted into the external cill to make sure that it was ok.

    Then it had to be checked to make sure that the pan fitting bolts did not stop the heater ducting from fitting the channel.

    And i had to make sure that the components would have enough freedom from the heater ducting.

    And now we are nearly ready to weld in the heater tabs on the tube, the end socket on the tube. And then weld it in .All went well so thats a good day. I might have enough gas to weld on the tabs but then will have to get a re fill.



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I would like to rotate one or two of the pics but I,m not sure on that so will leave well alone😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    I've heard of the Bilt Hamber anti corrosion treatment, and you injected it into to the sill cavities? that's a sound job for sure. That Fastback looks very good, and the inside is as well I'd say, great job! The estate version of these VW's were great favorite's of the Vets in my part of the Country ( probably he same all over Ireland )😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    When you have it finished and are sitting back and enjoying it, maybe you will sort through all the pics, and make a nice pictorial "story", with explanatory text on the the different stages of the restoration? It would be very interesting for people who like restore and preserve old cars.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Nearly all the pics are on my imgur account, over 1000 of them. And some on a photobucket account too.



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,258 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Unfortunately, I don't have either, but maybe time to get an imgur account....😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 24,146 ✭✭✭✭Sleepy


    @kadman this thread is utterly inspiring. I'm sure the car will likely never be worth what you've put into it, particularly were you to factor your time and expertise into the sums but it is wonderful to know there's people like you in the world that have the skill and desire to save these old beauties!

    Post edited by Sleepy on


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    Thankyou for your kind sentiments.


    In pound shillings and pence the car will never be worth what I have put into it. But in other ways it will be well worth while in the memories involved in the car. Way back before I ever found out about it, and right up to this post of yours. Lots and lots of memories for me, you guys out there , and in particular Alpha beta who sold it to me. He asked me to post up any resto as the story to follow his great thread. And i promised to do that, and thats why we are here.


    Its lovely to know that other folks are getting something out of this as much as i am. But there were a few times when i was challenged with the car, and questioned my sanity😁 But never at any time was I seriously going to throw in the towel, but I did swear a bit alright🤣 And its great to see all you folks sticking with it too. Thanks for the encouragement.



  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 59,714 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gremlinertia


    Never miss a post, it's such a labour of love, and discussing the proper (to my mind) mechanics of engines and other fettling just makes me smile at every turn



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,978 ✭✭✭Jeff2


    This one.?




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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,057 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman


    I assume you want me to clarify that for you, thats no problem. If you look down below the tube along the bottom of the square section, you will see a horizontal threaded pointed bolt. This bolt actually comes up from the bottom of the floor pan, and towards the heater duct pipe. That view is just to assure me that I have clearance to clear the pipe if i install it in the square section at that point. And I do thankfully.

    If I install the tube too close to the square section, then I risk hitting the pipe with the floor pan bolt up through the bottom



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