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Pulling trailers

  • 01-12-2020 4:28pm
    #1
    20silkcut
    Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭


    RSA say that any trailer with a total mass over 3500kg must have independent braking.
    I don’t do a lot of trailer work on the road myself but I reckon I have gone over that a few times drawing clay fertilizer etc. But I can’t see myself piping up an hydraulic braking system on my old trailer.
    The plate on my tractor says maximum permissible weight of trailers is 11,700 kg.
    Wondering is that related to the drawbar pull of the tractor or is that the limit the tractor brakes can handle on its own.

    Thread title should be pulling trailers.Sorted.G.


Comments

  • #2
    lakill Farm
    Registered Users Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    I got hydraulic brakes added to a trailer here last year. a lad from Cork did the whole job for €350 including freeing out the idle brakes on the trailer. Its a great job now even though the trailer is only used 4 or 5 days a year drawing turf . It is 14x7.5ft x 4ft sides so 8/10 ton gross with a load of turf


    20silkcut wrote: »
    RSA say that any trailer with a total mass over 3500kg must have independent braking.
    I don’t do a lot of trailer work on the road myself but I reckon I have gone over that a few times drawing clay fertilizer etc. But I can’t see myself piping up an hydraulic braking system on my old trailer.
    The plate on my tractor says maximum permissible weight of trailers is 11,700 kg.
    Wondering is that related to the drawbar pull of the tractor or is that the limit the tractor brakes can handle on its own.

    Thread title should be pulling trailers.


  • #3
    20silkcut
    Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭20silkcut


    lakill Farm wrote: »
    I got hydraulic brakes added to a trailer here last year. a lad from Cork did the whole job for €350 including freeing out the idle brakes on the trailer. Its a great job now even though the trailer is only used 4 or 5 days a year drawing turf . It is 14x7.5ft x 4ft sides so 8/10 ton gross with a load of turf

    Very same as my trailer so although mine is a re incarnation of an old truck so it’s all steel might be a bit heavier. Must look up that guy €350 is not too bad. Is that just plugged into a spool valve and operated by hand.
    Has anyone ever being pulled by the guards with an old un plated trailer?


  • #4
    lakill Farm
    Registered Users Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    20silkcut wrote: »
    Very same as my trailer so although mine is a re incarnation of an old truck so it’s all steel might be a bit heavier. Must look up that guy €350 is not too bad. Is that just plugged into a spool valve and operated by hand.
    Has anyone ever being pulled by the guards with an old un plated trailer?

    No he put the trailer brake end and its operated off the tractor hydraulic brakes. he advertises on donedeal for air brakes on trailers. somewhere in cork. Nice lad, he can certified and plate a trailer also.


  • #5
    _Brian
    Registered Users Posts: 18,473 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    lakill Farm wrote: »
    I got hydraulic brakes added to a trailer here last year. a lad from Cork did the whole job for €350 including freeing out the idle brakes on the trailer. Its a great job now even though the trailer is only used 4 or 5 days a year drawing turf . It is 14x7.5ft x 4ft sides so 8/10 ton gross with a load of turf

    That sounds very reasonable for that amount of work.


  • #6
    lakill Farm
    Registered Users Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    _Brian wrote: »
    That sounds very reasonable for that amount of work.

    yes he was definitely 5 hours flat out working at it. and supplied the braking ram and pipes etc.

    made some difference when pulling the trailer on the road


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  • #7
    ml100
    Registered Users Posts: 403 ✭✭ml100


    20silkcut wrote: »
    RSA say that any trailer with a total mass over 3500kg must have independent braking.
    I don’t do a lot of trailer work on the road myself but I reckon I have gone over that a few times drawing clay fertilizer etc. But I can’t see myself piping up an hydraulic braking system on my old trailer.
    The plate on my tractor says maximum permissible weight of trailers is 11,700 kg.
    Wondering is that related to the drawbar pull of the tractor or is that the limit the tractor brakes can handle on its own.

    Thread title should be pulling trailers.

    If your tractors max speed is 40km/hr you can tow a trailer upto 5000kg provided tests not more than 3 time3 unladen weight of the tractor.


  • #8
    roosterman71
    Registered Users Posts: 5,353 ✭✭✭roosterman71


    Does this man in Cork just repair trailer brakes or fit them too. Have a tipper that carries 10 ton with no brakes. There was some operated via a spool originally. It's a home made trailer though but the axel is off a lorry and should have all the bits and bobs. Used to have it anyway.


  • #9
    Limestone Cowboy
    Registered Users Posts: 3,516 ✭✭✭Limestone Cowboy


    roosterman71 wrote: »
    Does this man in Cork just repair trailer brakes or fit them too. Have a tipper that carries 10 ton with no brakes. There was some operated via a spool originally. It's a home made trailer though but the axel is off a lorry and should have all the bits and bobs. Used to have it anyway.

    It not rocket science really. You'd put them right yourself if you are half handy, there's a small single acting spring loaded ram that turns the rod going into the back of the hub that pushes the shoes out against the drum when it turns. I completely redid them myself on the dump trailer and low loader. The ram is about 50 quid, shoes about 60-70 per wheel depending on size and get you'd a few new hoses made up to suit cheap enough. Hardest part is freeing up the rod going into the back of the hub if it is seized.


  • #10
    20silkcut
    Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭20silkcut


    Limestone Cowboy wrote: »
    It not rocket science really. You'd put them right yourself if you are half handy, there's a small single acting spring loaded ram that turns the rod going into the back of the hub that pushes the shoes out against the drum when it turns. I completely redid them myself on the dump trailer and low loader. The ram is about 50 quid, shoes about 60-70 per wheel depending on size and get you'd a few new hoses made up to suit cheap enough. Hardest part is freeing up the rod going into the back of the hub if it is seized.

    Daunting task though on really old lorry axle trailers. I had some job taking a drum off a 20 year old ifor Williams one time needed heat to get it done. Can only imagine what a 40 or 50 year old drum on an ex lorry axle would be like.


  • #11
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,363 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    roosterman71 wrote: »
    Does this man in Cork just repair trailer brakes or fit them too. Have a tipper that carries 10 ton with no brakes. There was some operated via a spool originally. It's a home made trailer though but the axel is off a lorry and should have all the bits and bobs. Used to have it anyway.

    As far as I'm aware he fits them also. Lakills trailer had no brakes at all as far as I know just an old lorry axle on it.


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  • #12
    lakill Farm
    Registered Users Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    Reggie. wrote: »
    As far as I'm aware he fits them also. Lakills trailer had no brakes at all as far as I know just an old lorry axle on it.

    Brakes and shoes were in my hubs ( he had asked me for pictures before he came up so he would have spare shoes, you can see the shoes from the back of the hub) so he took off the wheels and hub and cleaned all the brakes and springs and bits inside. that was 75% of the job in fairness, he was no time setting up the new mechanism

    I say if you have a trailer axle with no hubs set up you would be better off buying a brakes axle and swapping it over


  • #13
    lakill Farm
    Registered Users Posts: 4,735 ✭✭✭lakill Farm


    Fully agree the mechanism betweenthe 2 wheels is easy,

    The opening hubs, removing double wheels safely and freeing out the inside of the hubs is what took all the time.

    He had gas in the van, welders and battery impact guns.

    All I supplied him with was pints of mi wadi and a few mugs of tea. He wont eat even a biscuit and I was blue in the face offering to go get a roll.


    Limestone Cowboy wrote: »
    It not rocket science really. You'd put them right yourself if you are half handy, there's a small single acting spring loaded ram that turns the rod going into the back of the hub that pushes the shoes out against the drum when it turns. I completely redid them myself on the dump trailer and low loader. The ram is about 50 quid, shoes about 60-70 per wheel depending on size and get you'd a few new hoses made up to suit cheap enough. Hardest part is freeing up the rod going into the back of the hub if it is seized.


  • #14
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,363 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    lakill Farm wrote: »
    Fully agree the mechanism betweenthe 2 wheels is easy,

    The opening hubs, removing double wheels safely and freeing out the inside of the hubs is what took all the time.

    He had gas in the van, welders and battery impact guns.

    All I supplied him with was pints of mi wadi and a few mugs of tea. He wont eat even a biscuit and I was blue in the face offering to go get a roll.

    Surprised he got the tae


  • #15
    Water John
    Registered Users Posts: 21,113 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Surprised he got the tae

    Only if Lakill takes a shine to you.


  • #16
    20silkcut
    Registered Users Posts: 2,543 ✭✭✭20silkcut


    What are the rules of thumb as regards matching tractor size and specifications to trailer size and mass. The RSA says you can pull a trailer up to 32,000 kg if it has brakes. Does that mean you could legally put a 32 ton load behind the likes of a MF 165.
    What guidelines do lads use in general in regard to what is safe for various different tractors to pull.
    Off hand I can recall some dodgy looking combinations on silage outfits back 20 odd years ago when trailers started to increase in size .
    Generally nowadays most tractors and trailers you see on the road nowadays appear to be well matched.


  • #17
    Jb1989
    Registered Users Posts: 2,420 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    20silkcut wrote: »
    What are the rules of thumb as regards matching tractor size and specifications to trailer size and mass. The RSA says you can pull a trailer up to 32,000 kg if it has brakes. Does that mean you could legally put a 32 ton load behind the likes of a MF 165.
    What guidelines do lads use in general in regard to what is safe for various different tractors to pull.
    Off hand I can recall some dodgy looking combinations on silage outfits back 20 odd years ago when trailers started to increase in size .
    Generally nowadays most tractors and trailers you see on the road nowadays appear to be well matched.

    No more than 3 times the weight of the tractor or else going by the plate on newer ones.


  • #18
    memorystick
    Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭memorystick


    Getting a cattle trailer shortly. Probably a twin axle jeep trailer to put behind tractor. I’m going to borrow my neighbours and try it on the hitch with a ball. Just wondering what the 3 point frames with the ball are like? Does the trailer seem unsteady with load? I’ve seen lads with trailers behind tractors with 1 axle taking most of the weight and the front 1 off the ground. Thanks


  • #19
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,363 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    memorystick wrote: »
    Getting a cattle trailer shortly. Probably a twin axle jeep trailer to put behind tractor. I’m going to borrow my neighbours and try it on the hitch with a ball. Just wondering what the 3 point frames with the ball are like? Does the trailer seem unsteady with load? I’ve seen lads with trailers behind tractors with 1 axle taking most of the weight and the front 1 off the ground. Thanks

    Use your drawbar but put it in upside down. That levels out the trailer


  • #20
    memorystick
    Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭memorystick


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Use your drawbar but put it in upside down. That levels out the trailer

    Is the ball on a jeep the same height as a ball on the drawbar of a tractor? I've a 2850 JD


  • #21
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,363 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    memorystick wrote: »
    Is the ball on a jeep the same height as a ball on the drawbar of a tractor? I've a 2850 JD

    Think tractor is a little higher but turning it upside down helps


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  • #22
    have2flushtwice
    Registered Users Posts: 1,397 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Think tractor is a little higher but turning it upside down helps

    do what the rooter does..
    let some air out of the back wheels of the tractor.


  • #23
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,363 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    have2flushtwice wrote: »
    do what the rooter does..
    let some air out of the back wheels of the tractor.

    You legend......for the wrong reasons :D


  • #24
    funkey_monkey
    Registered Users Posts: 8,052 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    memorystick wrote: »
    Getting a cattle trailer shortly. Probably a twin axle jeep trailer to put behind tractor. I’m going to borrow my neighbours and try it on the hitch with a ball. Just wondering what the 3 point frames with the ball are like? Does the trailer seem unsteady with load? I’ve seen lads with trailers behind tractors with 1 axle taking most of the weight and the front 1 off the ground. Thanks

    If you have an IW trailer I think you can get a model specific source for the coupling to raise the coupling to a more suitable height.

    Be sure to phone a main dealer though as an aftermarket part here is definitively not ideal from safety or insurance perspective.


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