New, unregistered Irish-bought car from 1976 - where do I start?

harr · 19-02-2020 4:13pm

I have seen working examples on different sites going anywhere from 400 sterling up to 2000 some are running in original state and some have been fully restored.

One site here

https://m.classic-trader.com/uk/motorcycle/search?make=487&sorting[sorting]=datePublished_desc&pagination[entriesPerPage]=60&pagination[page]=1&_locale=en_GB

airhead_eire · 19-02-2020 8:58pm

kadman wrote: »

They would both need recommissioning, but to what degree,

so its a how long is a piece of string question. It may or maynot need an engine overhaul.
And so its price will be reflected in that, and basically its a non runner.

I'd say 300-500 is going to be the max for each, considering restored prices are 1500.

As someone that rides vintage/classic bikes, I would say that is about right price-wise. They will never fetch the money that other old German marques (NSU, Zundapp, BMW etc.) will.

kadman · 19-02-2020 9:58pm

macplaxton wrote: »

Could be more as new and unused, but you'd need to promote them in the right place.

In all fairness, realistically from a buyers point of view, they have seized components, not roadworthy, non runners and may require lots of work to get them roadworthy.

So that is going to affect the asking price. There are far more collectible bikes to chose from. And the fact that a restored one is probably 2k or less.

Any potential buyer/restorer has to take into account his outlay versus his return. And in the case of someone that wants to work on it and flip it, there is little to make out of it.

On the other hand a collector who just has to have it, will he pay more than 500 for it??

I used to drive and restore lots of the old brit bikes. AJS, Matchless, BSA's, back when you could pull them out of ditches and old sheds, so there was little or no outlay, just work.

I once dug up an old soakpit, and lifted out an old vw floorpan, to get my hands on an old AJS frame, and thats another story.

Sanity and classic vehicle buffs definitely do not go together..:eek::D:D

The Red Ace · 19-02-2020 10:15pm

Reading through the posts with regards to being seized I see also mention of the back wheel being locked, even with a seized engine the back wheel should rotate, those bikes must be in prob first gear. As regard vintage bikes there seems to be a good few here with an interest but anytime I look in the bike forum it is mostly rocket pocket being discussed. A few of mine are BSA A10 road rocket, Kawasaki H1 500, Suzuki T200 and about 6 more all from early 60s to early 70s

airhead_eire · 19-02-2020 10:17pm

The Red Ace wrote: »

Reading through the posts with regards to being seized I see also mention of the back wheel being locked, even with a seized engine the back wheel should rotate, those bikes must be in prob first gear. As regard vintage bikes there seems to be a good few here with an interest but anytime I look in the bike forum it is mostly rocket pocket being discussed. A few of mine are BSA A10 road rocket, Kawasaki H1 500, Suzuki T200 and about 6 more all from early 60s to early 70s

Clearly a man of good taste with that collection !

kadman · 19-02-2020 11:29pm

Excellent taste putting the A 10 at the start of the list.:D:D

alfa beta · 20-02-2020 12:36am

The Red Ace wrote: »

Reading through the posts with regards to being seized I see also mention of the back wheel being locked, even with a seized engine the back wheel should rotate, those bikes must be in prob first gear.

Good point - I only had to move them a few feet so didn't check to see if they were in gear - I did pull the clutch but that made no difference. Must have another look at them when I get a chance and see if they are actually in first!

WestWicklow1 · 20-02-2020 12:40am

alfa beta wrote: »

Good point - I only had to move them a few feet so didn't check to see if they were in gear - I did pull the clutch but that made no difference. Must have another look at them when I get a chance and see if they are actually in first!

It could just be the brake shoes bound to the drum.

Jeff2 · 20-02-2020 12:56am

alfa beta wrote: »

Good point - I only had to move them a few feet so didn't check to see if they were in gear - I did pull the clutch but that made no difference. Must have another look at them when I get a chance and see if they are actually in first!

The wet clutch will have the plates stuck together and casing needs to be taken off to separate them.

So pulling the clutch makes no difference.

alfa beta · 20-02-2020 1:05am

Jeff2 wrote: »

The wet clutch will have the plates stuck together and casing needs to be taken off to separate them.

So pulling the clutch makes no difference.

Ah - you learn something new every day .... this is why I love Boards!!)

Jeff2 · 20-02-2020 1:24am

alfa beta wrote: »

Ah - you learn something new every day .... this is why I love Boards!!)

Yeah, you pull the clutch lever and it will not work as the cork plates will be stuck to the metal plates.

Jeff2 · 20-02-2020 4:55am

If you move the back and forward while little pressure on the gear lever it will change gear to get it into neutral.

This works for most bike bar a few Kawasakis.

Jeff2 · 20-02-2020 5:22am

BTW the ignition key for the bikes doesn't really look like a bike key.

I'll post a picture tomorrow.

macplaxton · 20-02-2020 1:30pm

One of these (they're all the same).

[Deleted User] · 20-02-2020 1:32pm

macplaxton wrote: »

One of these (they're all the same).

SOME differences surely

macplaxton · 20-02-2020 7:10pm

No. On the ETZs, they had a separate flat key for the headstock lock and another for the removable side cover.

alfa beta · 20-02-2020 7:21pm

Jeff2 wrote: »

If you move the back and forward while little pressure on the gear lever it will change gear to get it into neutral.

This works for most bike bar a few Kawasakis.

This worked perfectly - now much easier to move lol - also very pleased to see how wheels move very freely and brakes (front and back) are working great etc .... in fact the more I look at these two bikes the more I'm thinking it mightn't take much at all to get them going. I'm starting to get tempted to keep them .... (Oh God maybe I'm gonna turn into my dad lol!!)

kadman · 20-02-2020 8:03pm

alfa beta wrote: »

This worked perfectly - now much easier to move lol - also very pleased to see how wheels move very freely and brakes (front and back) are working great etc .... in fact the more I look at these two bikes the more I'm thinking it mightn't take much at all to get them going. I'm starting to get tempted to keep them .... (Oh God maybe I'm gonna turn into my dad lol!!)

First sign of a classic vehicle addict.
Wont be long before you get to....." Hi I am alfa beta, and i am a classic vehicle addict"

And its all down hill from there bud....:D:D:D

kadman · 20-02-2020 8:07pm

If you are tempted to kick it over. Dont lunge up on the kickstart
with all your weight at the start. If the engine is seized, you may do damage to the kickstart
mechanisim.Try foot pressure with your weight on the ground.

Its meant to take force when the engine is free. Its not built for full body weight on a seized engine.

alfa beta · 20-02-2020 8:11pm

kadman wrote: »

If you are tempted to kick it over. Dont lunge up on the kickstart
with all your weight at the start. If the engine is seized, you may do damage to the kickstart
mechanisim.Try foot pressure with your weight on the ground.

Its meant to take force when the engine is free. Its not built for full body weight on a seized engine.

Kicks down nicely with no forced weight. Sounds good too. As per above post I'm getting the impression that these two bikes mightn't take much to get them going. They have been covered up very well and were kept in a much drier building than the car so fingers crossed, they might be in good condition throughout.

kadman · 20-02-2020 9:03pm

alfa beta wrote: »

Kicks down nicely with no forced weight. Sounds good too. As per above post I'm getting the impression that these two bikes mightn't take much to get them going. They have been covered up very well and were kept in a much drier building than the car so fingers crossed, they might be in good condition throughout.

Looking good then.:)

kadman · 20-02-2020 9:14pm

Wont be long before you will be taking out the plug and cleaning it,
squirt a small drop of fuel into the chamber, putting back in the plug and kicking it.

It should fire if the sparkplug is good, and you have spark....

Of course make sure you are in neutral. If the bike pushes forward a few feet, with no engine revolving,
and freely, chances are you are in neutral.

The Red Ace · 20-02-2020 9:14pm

seeing as they are not seized you should start by looking into the fuel tank, if they have a varnish type smell they have had fuel in the past, if they look pristine probably never started. if they have had fuel in the past the tanks need a thorough cleaning and seeing as they are 2 stroke rusting may be minimum. Again if fuel has been added previously the carbs will need cleaning also as the jets are bound to be clogged. the tick over jet is usually hidden up under the main jet. don't forget two stroke oil for the, mix I would suspect a ratio of 25 to one.

WestWicklow1 · 20-02-2020 9:14pm

alfa beta wrote: »

This worked perfectly - now much easier to move lol - also very pleased to see how wheels move very freely and brakes (front and back) are working great etc .... in fact the more I look at these two bikes the more I'm thinking it mightn't take much at all to get them going. I'm starting to get tempted to keep them .... (Oh God maybe I'm gonna turn into my dad lol!!)

Keep at least one of them in memory of your Dad and pass it onto your own kids.

kadman · 20-02-2020 9:22pm

:D:D:D

kadman · 20-02-2020 9:47pm

This website might give you a realistic idea of the pricing you might consider,

https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/motorcycle/listing/mz/ts-150/1974/110941

Esel · 20-02-2020 9:53pm

If it has fuel in the tank, you will have to drain it, clean the fuel filter (if there is one), and remove, dismantle and clean the carburettor. As said above, check the condition of the tank interior too.

Put a small amount of two-stroke oil into the cylinder. Leave the spark plug out, and turn the engine over with the kick start a number of times.

Fresh petrol, and don't forget to add the correct amount of two-stroke oil as well (probably best to put this in before the petrol, to aid mixing). Use a high quality oil, not the cheapest you can find.

Change the gearbox oil too. Have a spare spark plug (or two) at hand. NGK is the best brand, be sure to get the correct ones.

If you drive it, when going downhill don't let it run for long with no throttle, as this means little (or no) fuel/oil is getting into the crankcase and cylinder - a recipe for disaster! Blip the throttle regularly with the clutch in to avoid this. As it uses pre-mix fuel, always carry a small container of two-stroke oil to use when filling the tank.

Also, you will surely need a new battery (possibly 6V rather than 12V?).

Don't try to start the engine until you have done the above.

[I'd say the Motors regulars here may be getting a bit bored with the slight thread hijack. Maybe post something about the Peugeot to keep them happy.

]

Jeff2 · 20-02-2020 11:04pm

Esel wrote: »

If it has fuel in the tank, you will have to drain it, clean the fuel filter (if there is one), and remove, dismantle and clean the carburettor. As said above, check the condition of the tank interior too.

Put a small amount of two-stroke oil into the cylinder. Leave the spark plug out, and turn the engine over with the kick start a number of times.

Fresh petrol, and don't forget to add the correct amount of two-stroke oil as well (probably best to put this in before the petrol, to aid mixing). Use a high quality oil, not the cheapest you can find.

Change the gearbox oil too. Have a spare spark plug (or two) at hand. NGK is the best brand, be sure to get the correct ones.

If you drive it, when going downhill don't let it run for long with no throttle, as this means little (or no) fuel/oil is getting into the crankcase and cylinder - a recipe for disaster! Blip the throttle regularly with the clutch in to avoid this. As it uses pre-mix fuel, always carry a small container of two-stroke oil to use when filling the tank.

Also, you will surely need a new battery (possibly 6V rather than 12V?).

Don't try to start the engine until you have done the above.

[I'd say the Motors regulars here may be getting a bit bored with the slight thread hijack. Maybe post something about the Peugeot to keep them happy. ]

That a great post and should be read a few times and important not to put much lubricant in the plug hole or you risk bending the conrod or cracking the piston.

Jeff2 · 20-02-2020 11:13pm

alfa beta wrote: »

This worked perfectly - now much easier to move lol - also very pleased to see how wheels move very freely and brakes (front and back) are working great etc .... in fact the more I look at these two bikes the more I'm thinking it mightn't take much at all to get them going. I'm starting to get tempted to keep them .... (Oh God maybe I'm gonna turn into my dad lol!!)

Damn I should have said nothing and offered you €200 for a bike.

alfa beta · 21-02-2020 2:01am

Thanks for all the advice on getting the bikes going folks - really appreciate it - I'm gonna stop posting about them here now though so this thread can return to its original 'classic car' purpose.

Now, I'm planning to try and uncover the Peugeot fully this weekend, so I'll hopefully post some more shots of it and also the VW Variant that some of you were interested in by Monday. There's also a Mercedes 190 (mid sixties) alongside the Variant - it's very tricky to get to as the cars are all squished together, but I'll see if I can get a couple of photos of that too. I really like that car - I remember sitting in the big plush red leather seats going through town when I was a kid and I remember the lovely solid thud the door made when you closed it ... It had a LPG conversion done too, in the 70's, which I imagine would have been quite unusual back then.

Anyway, once again, thanks everyone. This forum and the people here have been so helpful and friendly and enthusiastic about everything, I'm really really grateful. Have a great weekend and I'll try and get some decent pics of the old cars up soon

New, unregistered Irish-bought car from 1976 - where do I start?

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