Labour Saving and General Guntering

stock> · 05-05-2017 9:29pm

Odelay wrote: »

Welcome aboard and fair play to you for trying so hard to get the photo to show. I can see it now, plenty of leverage there!

X2

p dogg · 05-05-2017 9:42pm

Like I said there has been a few adjustments on the headscoop since the pics were taken. The leverage arm is hinged in the middle now, and also when I added the attachments at the outfarm crushes I modified it to fit either a left hand or right hand crush, I'll try get a pic of it tomorrow now that Ive discovered how to upload the pictures.

Jack the Stripper · 05-05-2017 9:45pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

So anyway, another 3 posts. Is that right? :rolleyes:

You were always a dinger with the maths patsy.

jerdee · 06-05-2017 8:51am

thanks for the photo
Good job there how do you find the head catcher piece is there need for fancy Moulded one?

p dogg · 06-05-2017 10:49am

I just used a strip of rubber 20mm thick going around the scoop part and it does the finest, there's no animals getting injured in it anyway. Not all scoops on the market have the fancy moulded bit you're on about. Ya just need something for a bit of cushioning to avoid injury.

06-05-2017 10:53am

Nekarsulm wrote: »

That's not a vacuum pump though,that's a shaft driven impeller about 16 inches in width, with four vanes.
Most vacuum pumps (8000 litre MEC is almost universal in agri) would take about 3 minutes to suck up 1300 gallons of slurry.

We have a 2300gallon hispec with a 10000litre pump . When tested she was able to fill a load of water in 3.5 minutes and a load of slurry in 5

patsy_mccabe · 06-05-2017 11:16am

Jack the Stripper wrote: »

You were always a dinger with the maths patsy.

More like keep posting and you'll be able to put up pics.

06-05-2017 11:26am

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

This setup with a hydraulic pump on the tractor and a motor on the implement is very inefficient when compared to a PTO shaft. You'd get a big drop in HP from the tractor to the implement. Could be as much as a 30% loss in power. That energy loss is through the generation of heat, so that heat has to be dissipated with a cooler.

We looked at this for the vacuum tank. One thing we found was the hydraulic motors are specced for revolutions per litre of oil.
The problem is older tractors have lower capacity pumps 30/40litres per minute . newer tractors 70/80lpm.
If you go for an average motor, the older tractor will be revved flat out to get the speed up , the newer one will be running too fast at tickover.

patsy_mccabe · 06-05-2017 11:32am

9935452 wrote: »

We looked at this for the vacuum tank. One thing we found was the hydraulic motors are specced for revolutions per litre of oil.
The problem is older tractors have lower capacity pumps 30/40litres per minute . newer tractors 70/80lpm.
If you go for an average motor, the older tractor will be revved flat out to get the speed up , the newer one will be running too fast at tickover.

No, you should put on a separate PTO pump with a spec (revs/lts) that matches the motor. That way the revs from the PTO will be the same as the revs going to the implement (Vac tank in your case).

renandstimpy · 06-05-2017 1:10pm

Decided to make a patio table that can take a parasol and that can be left out all year round ... not exactly farming , but the steel was left over bits on farm

. Going to get it Galvanised and then bed base into hole in concrete slab before i lay paving and also get a 1200 mm circle of granite for the top with 40mm hole bored in it . browny points with the boss

.

patsy_mccabe · 06-05-2017 2:10pm

Braided a loop into a rope end. Thanks to YouTube. A knot would not fit through the eye bolt.
This is the leg hoist I made earlier. The lighter rope I had on it broke.

blue5000 · 06-05-2017 10:59pm

I could have sworn I had one of these somewhere in the back of the jeep.

So instead of driving 12 miles, I used this instead.

renandstimpy · 07-05-2017 9:00am

Great job Blue ... there will be half sets of rachet straps all over the country ðŸ€£

Czhornet · 07-05-2017 11:09am

blue5000 wrote: »

I could have sworn I had one of these somewhere in the back of the jeep.

So instead of driving 12 miles, I used this instead.

Is there anywhere I get some sort of a wire tensioner to tighten barbed wire, without cutting or opening it?
Something like this: http://www.jakeswiretighteners.com/

renandstimpy · 07-05-2017 11:57pm

Connacht Agri Wire strainer ... Have one for a year or two ... Great job .... check out there website .. it's â‚¬99 ... there is a video on YouTube on how to use it .

bogman_bass · 10-05-2017 12:20pm

http://www.thepoke.co.uk/2017/05/09/smallest-terrifying-rollercoaster-world/

Some top class guttering here

stock> · 10-05-2017 1:59pm

bogman_bass wrote: »

http://www.thepoke.co.uk/2017/05/09/smallest-terrifying-rollercoaster-world/

Some top class guttering here

I disagree this is engineering not guntering or labour saving................

bogman_bass · 10-05-2017 3:26pm

Could be labour saving if you're constipated!

Nekarsulm · 12-05-2017 6:05pm

A reel I stuck together to make unrolling high tensile wire a bit easier.

Muckit · 13-05-2017 9:49pm

You know when you've been doing something for a while and have yourself convinced that it is the only way to do things..... then you see it done another (better) way and you feel like clapping and giving that man a medal!

NB... This is not about the type of fence post but the way he puts up the wire. Just watch the first 10 secs and you'll know what I mean! Only thing ld change is I'd probably put down posts on way out not back...

https://youtu.be/N0Cm9DVgUN4

pedigree 6 · 13-05-2017 10:39pm

Muckit wrote: »

You know when you've been doing something for a while and have yourself convinced that it is the only way to do things..... then you see it done another (better) way and you feel like clapping and giving that man a medal!

NB... This is not about the type of fence post but the way he puts up the wire. Just watch the first 10 secs and you'll know what I mean! Only thing ld change is I'd probably put down posts on way out not back...

https://youtu.be/N0Cm9DVgUN4

I don't get it Muckit!

If I had to do that with the strip wires I use it wouldn't work as sometimes the the little wires get caught in one another and surely if I left the reel on the fence and walked off with one end i'd be gone 20ft and it would be stuck into one another and i'd have to go back to the reel and free it.

What I do and most people i'd say is put a loop on one end and put it on a strong pigtail and then walk with the reel and stakes and do the one job as I go along (unroll and put stakes up) and then when I get to the other end wrap the wire on the metal crook on the reel and hook to fence or if there is no electric fence at the reel end to put a current in the strip wire, drop the pigtail with strip wire attached over the electric fence at the start and walk on.

There should be no need to walk twice along the one stripwire.

Edit: you can do the above either walking or from the quad.

patsy_mccabe · 13-05-2017 10:58pm

I think it's easier to run the line fully first and then go back with the posts. That way the posts are in a straight line.

Wildsurfer · 13-05-2017 11:10pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I think it's easier to run the line fully first and then go back with the posts. That way the posts are in a straight line.

I'm with you 100% on this one patsy. A nice straight line, good and tight, and you hardly need a shock at all. I see lads putting up fence zig zagging across the field Id do better with a blindfold on!

rangler1 · 13-05-2017 11:18pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I think it's easier to run the line fully first and then go back with the posts. That way the posts are in a straight line.

Yea it's a joke sometimes to look back when you think you've walked a straight line

ganmo · 13-05-2017 11:24pm

rangler1 wrote: »

Yea it's a joke sometimes to look back when you think you've walked a straight line

with the terrain around here I'd rarely walk in a straight line, I don't like walking downhill to walk uphill again

Muckit · 13-05-2017 11:27pm

I don't have a quad and so fences put up on foot. You are holding a reel and trying to hold 8-10 pigtails. I haven't tried it but if it did work, it would seem easier to hook on reel and just pull wire out. Put as you say pedigree, in practice the polywire can tangle or find it's way off the spool even with the guide.

pedigree 6 · 14-05-2017 8:18am

Muckit wrote: »

I don't have a quad and so fences put up on foot. You are holding a reel and trying to hold 8-10 pigtails. I haven't tried it but if it did work, it would seem easier to hook on reel and just pull wire out. Put as you say pedigree, in practice the polywire can tangle or find it's way off the spool even with the guide.

Don't forget the longer the strip wire you're putting up the more pressure you're putting on the little wires by leaving the reel and walking off with an end.
That YouTube clip is as much an advertisement for their wire as it is for the pigtails.

Mooooo · 14-05-2017 8:29am

pedigree 6 wrote: »

I don't get it Muckit!

If I had to do that with the strip wires I use it wouldn't work as sometimes the the little wires get caught in one another and surely if I left the reel on the fence and walked off with one end i'd be gone 20ft and it would be stuck into one another and i'd have to go back to the reel and free it.

What I do and most people i'd say is put a loop on one end and put it on a strong pigtail and then walk with the reel and stakes and do the one job as I go along (unroll and put stakes up) and then when I get to the other end wrap the wire on the metal crook on the reel and hook to fence or if there is no electric fence at the reel end to put a current in the strip wire, drop the pigtail with strip wire attached over the electric fence at the start and walk on.

There should be no need to walk twice along the one stripwire.

Edit: you can do the above either walking or from the quad.

I just put both the plastic handle that comes with the reel and a gate handle on the end of the wire for the reel, hook it on either side of the insulator on the permanent post and strike off then and throw in the pigtails as I go. The gate handle puts the shock from fencer on tonthe reel and the plastic one can be used if you need to hook it on to anything that may earth the fence. Using the the poly wire instead of poly tape allows you to leave a decent distance between pigtails depending on topography. Cows don't mind if it's not bang on straight, unless you have a fecker that pushes the posts over but she eventually got moved on to maccy d's

Buford T. Justice XIX · 14-05-2017 10:29am

Muckit wrote: »

You know when you've been doing something for a while and have yourself convinced that it is the only way to do things..... then you see it done another (better) way and you feel like clapping and giving that man a medal!

NB... This is not about the type of fence post but the way he puts up the wire. Just watch the first 10 secs and you'll know what I mean! Only thing ld change is I'd probably put down posts on way out not back...

https://youtu.be/N0Cm9DVgUN4

I thought everyone did it that way:pac:

The only thing I do differently is I hook the plastic handle onto the belt loops of my trousers when I am reeling it in as I won't be pulling the weight of the handle across the field and it's way easier just reeling in polywire rather than polywire and a handle. Less strain on the polywire too.

Bullocks · 14-05-2017 5:25pm

Where are ye getting oxygen and acetalyne for brazing or cutting ?
The father is looking but reckons its not a case of going in and getting a refill anymore

Labour Saving and General Guntering

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