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DIY Cabinet parts

  • 02-08-2017 7:34pm
    #1
    mm_surf
    Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭


    Looking for pointers for mame cabinet parts.
    Looking to build my own, as have a few parts around to do this relatively cheaply.
    Already have an old PC (typical office type machine) and a salvaged 17” LCD. Mainly intending to do the early arcade classics (mid-80’s) and 8-bit era stuff through emulation.

    LCD is a temporary one until I find something more suitable. I’ll run a Perspex bezel/mask and redo when I change the monitor. Have found an upright plan I like the look of (classic enough lines, trying to avoid a “mame of shame”). I may run a CRT monitor at some point (but meh heavy, but yay scanlines)

    Putting in a drawer for keyboard & mouse for ease of use. Also hope to use the cab as a base for jamma etc. maybe in future.

    Going to do a 1 player CP to begin with. Not going to be installing spinner/trackball/etc.
    So any pointers for finding a “kit” of joystick/buttons? Would prefer to go for decent quality here, sanwa, happ etc.

    Also, any recommendations for an interface between CP & PC? It’s an old & slow PC.
    I’m in the USA, if that helps any.
     
    Thanks!
     

    MM


Comments

  • #2
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    BGOllie is in the process of building a cab and there's lots of people on here who can offer constructive advice no pun intended!
    Welcome to the forum btw.


  • #3
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    mm_surf wrote: »
    I’m in the USA, if that helps any.
     

     

    You gotta be crazy.
    There are hundreds of thousands of original machines in the US for peanuts and you want to build one!

    It'll be more expensive to build one than to buy an original :confused:


  • #4
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    yeah you'll find an empty cab for under $100 some of them already fitted with doors monitor and CP ... coinopwarehouse (in the US) did a big sale there recently and had tons of cabs coing cheap : https://www.facebook.com/coinopwarehouse/photos/pcb.10155622007057375/10155622002752375/?type=3&theater

    I don't know if klov has a mame section but I'm sure there's a ton of US based forums that can help you find parts and cabs for a mame build


  • #5
    mm_surf
    Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    mm_surf wrote: »
    I’m in the USA, if that helps any.
     

     

    You gotta be crazy.
    There are hundreds of thousands of original machines in the US for peanuts and you want to build one!

    It'll be more expensive to build one than to buy an original :confused:
    I'm a tinkerer at heart, can't help it. If I had an original cab, I'd have to restore it properly. I'm looking for something that will do classic 8-bit emulation as well, and already have the hardware to do that (except for the CP & interface)

    But a lot of that coinopwarehouse stuff is tempting, definitely going to keep an eye on that. Too much stuff that I used to play back in the day (and a sit-in afterburner cab wouldn't be that big, surely? :D)

    My plan so far is:
    So far I already have:
    PC for emulation/mame & monitor
    Parts needed to complete:
    2 sheets ½” MDF $17 each (3/4” would be $27 each but probably make for a heavy cab)
    24 feet 2 x 1 framing timber $16
    12 feet 1 x 1 framing timber $8
    Strip light for marquee $10
    Marquee Perspex 6” x 24” $20
    bezel/mask Perspex 24”by 30” $30
    Stick & Buttons ??
    Control interface ??
     

    Total before controls & PC interface = $118
    By the time I'd have a generic cab gutted and refitted, I can't see it being cheaper. Would be nice to have something original though, with a 60 in 1 or something.
    Then probably go for a wrap & t-moulding. Could go really old school and put the fake wood effect dark brown fablon on it!

    MM.


  • #6
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    If you swap the MDF for plywood it will make it a lot lighter and easier to work with.


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  • #7
    mm_surf
    Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    eddhorse wrote: »
    If you swap the MDF for plywood it will make it a lot lighter and easier to work with.
    Could be. Not sure how easy it would be to get a nice smooth finish. Ply might be a bit "reverby".
    I'll definitly consider it though. Get a good look in the suppliers.

    mm


  • #8
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Plywood talk :
    http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=143159.0


  • #9
    mm_surf
    Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭mm_surf


    Theres a thread for everything!

    Have since found that t-moulding is 3/4", so at least the sides will be 3/4" of whatever is used.

    MM.


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