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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

1969799101102177

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 96 ✭✭grebtol2


    What's the general opinion on attaching mulching plugs to direct chute ride ons? Do they actually mulch the grass or does it just spit it out?

    Probably going to go with a TC138 with the BioClip plug.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    grebtol2 wrote: »
    What's the general opinion on attaching mulching plugs to direct chute ride ons? Do they actually mulch the grass or does it just spit it out?

    Probably going to go with a TC138 with the BioClip plug.

    My opinion it is a waste of time and a lot of effort. None of them do a really good job the way most Irish people cut their grass. Too infrequently and too short.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭red bull


    Is a Castelgarden 33inch cut ride on a good machine or just a toy ? Recommend a mower that will fit through a 38 inch gate


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    DeborahLQ wrote: »
    Great thread, but a bit overwhelming. Anybody know anything about these ones? I'm thinking of getting one.

    Recycler 22 in. SmartStow High Wheel Variable Speed Walk Behind Gas Self Propelled Mower
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Toro-Recycler-22-in-SmartStow-High-Wheel-Variable-Speed-Walk-Behind-Gas-Self-Propelled-Mower-20339/205026227

    Hi there Are you US based and if you are Ireland based can I ask what company you used to ship the mower home?


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    Hi all

    this a phenomenal thread with a huge volume of information. almost feel a thread specifically on makes/models vs price range is needed!

    I posted a message a couple of weeks ago regarding a replacement belt for a Husq CTH 151, the reason being was I had gotten a non-Genuine husq belt online and my mechanic found it to be a little long when fitting. so I want to replace that.

    I had gotten my mechanic to service the mower and wanted to sell it but I wasn't sure to trade in vs sell myself. My reason for selling is purely to get a newer model

    So this brings me to my question - If I had a budget within 2K-2300K what would I be best to look out for. Assuming I sell my own privately or trade in ill have extra to add

    Seems like folks I talk with are all advocating Stiga at the moment and the love for the Husq is fading

    My Needs - entire site is just under an acre inclusive of house.

    Husq - Is it true they are no longer selling rear discharge mowere?
    Honda - Super mower but out of my budget new
    Stiga - Are these castelgarden/mountfield rebadged and is there a model within my price range that someone would recommend?
    Viking/Stihl – Is this just a rebrand and all components etc are the same?
    Cub Cadet – Ive only heard of this brand
    JD – I don’t think my budget is in this bracket

    Outside of the above is there anything that you would suggest

    I was recently in Boston visiting family and I was ill when I looked at the prices of some of the ride on mowers there ~1000 in the stores, I had thought of importing at one point but with the steps involved and the fact that these are only side discharge I felt Irish lawns would be too “damp”

    Thanks for any thoughts provided
    deezell wrote: »
    Husq - plenty of rear baggers for sale, maybe dealers are dealing in rumours? Husky make cheaper built as well as higher quality mowers. Problem for consumer is knowing which grade you're getting, with the confusion of models.

    Honda. Yes.

    Stiga. Owned by GGP, parent of Castelgarden, Stiga, Alpins, Atco and Mountfield. Obviously huge commonality of parts, subtle differences in mowers and brand placement ( Stiga still has a professional range)

    Stihl bought Viking. Mowers are identical, but in Oompah-Loompa colours.

    Cub Cadet is an affordable American brand, only if you're buying in the US as you've seen. Owned by MTD, who also own Toro, high end push and zero turn mowers. Some nice MTD on agrieuro. MTD brand used in states for big store mowers but have quality also.

    JD pricey, even their economy lines, made back in the past by Castelgarden among others

    Snapper another well regarded brand, part of Briggs & Stratton behemoth, whose brands Simplicity, Murray and snapper are best known here.

    This is a good read though US focused so incomplete.
    https://todaysmower.com/riding-mower-brands/
    If you get a trade in offer off list pricr anywhere north of €900 for the cth151 I'd take it. You'll struggle to get 800 on Adverts/Donedeal unless it's only a few years old ( how old? It's been out for eons). Do the usual. Seek a cash price, then work out real trade in value. Posters here getting €300+ off for cash. Good hunting

    Deezal thanks for your input, so I have been doing some research and (another poster shared a method to calculate lawn to cut on google earth)found that I have 0.3 acres to cut a portion of which is too high for a ride on to drive through. based on the size of lawn area and the outlined models above can I ask for some guidance on what would be worth buying in the ~2K - 2.5K bracket


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  • Registered Users Posts: 18 junipershade


    Is there any disadvantage to having a bigger ride on mower if you don't need it?

    Looking online, the Stiga 5092H from agrieuro seems like a very good deal for 2500 euros, with decent specs and a free trailer. Looking at them in the shops though they seem pretty big, and something like the Stiga 3084H would be a better size. The 3084H will end up costing me around the same. Is it better to get the most power for your budget?

    We have about 3000 square meters to cut, half of that garden lawn and half a bit rougher ground that's been recently landscaped.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Bigger is better if you have a flat lawn with no bumps or hollows and no grades meeting each out.

    A smaller mower may go over a bump with the wheels on the bump itself a larger mower may straddle the bump and scalp it.

    Its an issue a couple of posters here have mentioned as a problem when they upgraded to a larger deck.

    This is a really hard concept for some people to grasp but there is no need to cut on the lowest setting and scalp the grass on every cut. Rougher areas can be cut on a higher setting and on modern mowers even the top highest setting will give reasonable results on rough areas that have a few lumps and bumps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    deezell wrote: »
    FWIW, importing a mower from the US using one of the address pal type of forwarding works out at $151 for this 78 Lb weight mower. That's $490 total, = €436, plus 23%VAT, and €15 customs admin charge, brings it to €551. I'm assuming no customs duty. Is that worth it for a 22"/56cm Toro mower? Good price when you count variable speed, but it's a bit risky if it's not perfect out of the box. Maybe the poster is in the States, so it's local to them.

    Hi Deezal, can you share more about the Address Pal shipping? and waht else is involved?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    Hi Deezal, can you share more about the Address Pal shipping? and waht else is involved?
    This is when you get a US address so you can buy from stores who don't internationally ship, or charge prohibitive amounts. Address pal is the An post version, but is limited to 20Kg. 44Lbs.
    The example I gave was from a company called MyUS.com. Their prices looked good, they forward big stuff up to 150lbs, (68Kg), they don't use dimensional weight, which is where a large light box is treated as a heavier object because of size. In that example I used the weight of the 56cm Toro mower. The US seller ships to the US forwarding address, often free, and MyUS sends it on just like Parcel Motel, but delivered. They don't do pre customs, meaning goods will be held until you pay customs and excise if any, and VAT, plus the handlers admin charge, which you'd need to find out. I've been stuffed by handling charges as high or higher than the VAT being sought, ANpost themselves are about €15 I think.
    There's a good few operators out there, and it's possible to get the goods less US sales tax as its for export. Items I've bought have been small, Chrysler car parts once at a big saving, and sometimes no VAT added ( so no admin charge) if you're lucky. Biggest I've bought was an Agrifab towed fertilizer spreader for like $56 or something, but light box, can't remember if I paid VAT. They eeren't for sale here at the time except smaller push ones at double what I paid. I'd also like to hear from someone who has brought in a big item like a mower, or something bigger like a ride-on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    Heres a screenshot
    481345.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    deezell wrote: »
    This is when you get a US address so you can buy from stores who don't internationally ship, or charge prohibitive amounts. Address pal is the An post version, but is limited to 20Kg. 44Lbs.
    The example I gave was from a company called MyUS.com. Their prices looked good, they forward big stuff up to 150lbs, (68Kg), they don't use dimensional weight, which is where a large light box is treated as a heavier object because of size. In that example I used the weight of the 56cm Toro mower. The US seller ships to the US forwarding address, often free, and MyUS sends it on just like Parcel Motel, but delivered. They don't do pre customs, meaning goods will be held until you pay customs and excise if any, and VAT, plus the handlers admin charge, which you'd need to find out. I've been stuffed by handling charges as high or higher than the VAT being sought, ANpost themselves are about €15 I think.
    There's a good few operators out there, and it's possible to get the goods less US sales tax as its for export. Items I've bought have been small, Chrysler car parts once at a big saving, and sometimes no VAT added ( so no admin charge) if you're lucky. Biggest I've bought was an Agrifab towed fertilizer spreader for like $56 or something, but light box, can't remember if I paid VAT. They eeren't for sale here at the time except smaller push ones at double what I paid. I'd also like to hear from someone who has brought in a big item like a mower, or something bigger like a ride-on.

    This is cool, I have family over in Boston now so I have someone on the ground. I always thought it was too complex to get things like Ride or in this case smaller garden products sent home.

    Interesting it would be good to see if smaller items like chainsaws etc could be viable to purchase now in the US through this avenue


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    Deezal thanks for your input, so I have been doing some research and (another poster shared a method to calculate lawn to cut on google earth)found that I have 0.3 acres to cut a portion of which is too high for a ride on to drive through. based on the size of lawn area and the outlined models above can I ask for some guidance on what would be worth buying in the ~2K - 2.5K bracket

    Hi All

    as you can see from my posts I am just at th point of choosing, if I buy here in Ireland (or through agrieuro) my options seem to be:
    Mountfield:1838H/1638H
    Castelgarden: XDC150/160
    Stiga -IM not sure what models fall within the budget I have

    Outside of the above any other ideas?
    My budget is between 2-2.5K

    ON a separate note I found an advert for new lawnmowers from a guy on done deal - he states in his advert that he is importing them from Poland - even provides a link to the site

    has anyone bought online form European sites outside of agrieuro

    thanks all


  • Registered Users Posts: 35 Scolly


    I just recently asked for advise here and ended up buying a mountfield 1538M mower for 0.4 acre lawn which is on a gradient and bumpy and rough in places
    It’s a great mower and got it for 2.5k very happy so far
    Bought locally as I try to do with most things to try and keep business in the area but also if anything goes wrong or I need some advise or a part I know exactly where to go.
    It collects the grass extremely well compared to the castle garden mower I had and powerful on the hills if that’s any help


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    Hi All

    as you can see from my posts I am just at th point of choosing, if I buy here in Ireland (or through agrieuro) my options seem to be:
    Mountfield:1838H/1638H
    Castelgarden: XDC150/160
    Stiga -IM not sure what models fall within the budget I have

    Outside of the above any other ideas?
    My budget is between 2-2.5K

    ON a separate note I found an advert for new lawnmowers from a guy on done deal - he states in his advert that he is importing them from Poland - even provides a link to the site

    has anyone bought online form European sites outside of agrieuro

    thanks all

    Stiga Estate 5092 H is the pick of the Agrieuro €2-2,5K price range. Made in EU, american made B&S avs engine, hydro, electric blade, a hefty 10% off brings it right under your budget.. Slightly narrower cut than some in this price point at 93cm, but given the relatively small cutting area this might be an advantage if you have tight spaces in parts. AVS engines have less vibration than normal single cylinder engines. As you only have 0.3acre to cut, ( make sure your reading from the app was in Acres, not Hectares), and some of this is not suitable for a ride on, maybe you would be better off with a large 30"/77cm walk behind mower like this Toro Timemaster, €1400.
    https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/toro-timemaster-30-quot-mower-new-model/12288417

    For about the same money you could have this used Honda v twin engined ride on, from the same dealer.

    https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/honda-2315-ride-on-mower/21934456

    Out of curiosity, post link to that Polish importer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 227 ✭✭westsidestory


    Hope okay to ask same question again, maybe deezell or other knowledgeable posters may have opinion.

    Looking for advice if possible, local football field covers 5 acres and club now needs to cut themselves. Was previously cut by agricultural tractor with mower.

    Would Stiga ZT 5132 T zero turn @ €6,000 be a viable option? And nearly as importantly how long should it take to cut using this 52" mower?

    https://www.doyles.ie/products/stiga-zero-turn-132cm-deck-kawasaki-fr691.html


    The Snapper ZTX350 52" zero turn comes @ €5,779

    https://www.gardenmachinery.ie/snapper-ztx250-104982.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Neighbor has just got the snapper (think its the same one, might be smaller) all I can say is its very fast cutting the grass and he bombs around on it even though the whole site is on a slope. His grass looks a lot better than last year because he seems to be cutting the grass more often, perhaps because of the slow season but maybe because its easier with the ZTR?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    Hope okay to ask same question again, maybe deezell or other knowledgeable posters may have opinion.

    Looking for advice if possible, local football field covers 5 acres and club now needs to cut themselves. Was previously cut by agricultural tractor with mower.

    Would Stiga ZT 5132 T zero turn @ €6,000 be a viable option? And nearly as importantly how long should it take to cut using this 52" mower?

    https://www.doyles.ie/products/stiga-zero-turn-132cm-deck-kawasaki-fr691.html


    The Snapper ZTX350 52" zero turn comes @ €5,779

    https://www.gardenmachinery.ie/snapper-ztx250-104982.html

    At the machine's top speed of 12Kph and a cutting width of 1.32 m, it would cut at a rate of 16,000 m2 per hour, or about 4 acres per hour. Allowing for turns, overlaps and running at a lower speed for heavier areas you could almost halve this to 2+ acres per hour, so they should get the pitches cut in two hours+. If the ground is a bit bumpy, 12kph will shake the crap out of the machine, as well as burning the grass if turns are attempted at that speed, so the club should be careful who gets the job. Give it to an oul fella, who can spend half the day at it, and the machine will last much longer!
    Edit; this machine is categorised as a domestic machine, so make sure the warranty of two years is not invalidated or reduced by what might be considered commercial use.


  • Registered Users Posts: 227 ✭✭westsidestory


    deezell wrote: »
    Hope okay to ask same question again, maybe deezell or other knowledgeable posters may have opinion.

    Looking for advice if possible, local football field covers 5 acres and club now needs to cut themselves. Was previously cut by agricultural tractor with mower.

    Would Stiga ZT 5132 T zero turn @ €6,000 be a viable option? And nearly as importantly how long should it take to cut using this 52" mower?

    https://www.doyles.ie/products/stiga-zero-turn-132cm-deck-kawasaki-fr691.html


    The Snapper ZTX350 52" zero turn comes @ €5,779

    https://www.gardenmachinery.ie/snapper-ztx250-104982.html

    At the machine's top speed of 12Kph and a cutting width of 1.32 m, it would cut at a rate of 16,000 m2 per hour, or about 4 acres per hour. Allowing for turns, overlaps and running at a lower speed for heavier areas you could almost halve this to 2+ acres per hour, so they should get the pitches cut in two hours+. If the ground is a bit bumpy, 12kph will shake the crap out of the machine, as well as burning the grass if turns are attempted at that speed, so the club should be careful who gets the job. Give it to an oul fella, who can spend half the day at it, and the machine will last much longer!
    Edit; this machine is categorised as a domestic machine, so make sure the warranty of two years is not invalidated or reduced by what might be considered commercial use.
    Many thanks deezell.

    Considering the €6k is probably top of budget for this 5 acre site am I going in right direction in regards machine suitable for this job?

    Site has not been fertilizer in decades if ever, soil sandy loam and when conditions are suitable grass growth is very good. Grass never collected.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    Many thanks deezell.

    Considering the €6k is probably top of budget for this 5 acre site am I going in right direction in regards machine suitable for this job?

    Site has not been fertilizer in decades if ever, soil sandy loam and when conditions are suitable grass growth is very good. Grass never collected.
    Don't fertilize unless you like mowing! As the clippings are constantly returned, that's plenty of nutrients. It's a football pitch, you you won't be mowing low like a golf course. It's the machine for the job, driven carefully. You might want to go commercial and Diesel second-hand for the same money, but you could be buying trouble. You'll probably burn 7+ litres juice on each cut, hard to know how dense the grass is. Chain it to the floor of clubhouse shed or a pillar, something new like this is desirable and all too easy to shift.


  • Registered Users Posts: 227 ✭✭westsidestory


    deezell wrote: »
    Many thanks deezell.

    Considering the €6k is probably top of budget for this 5 acre site am I going in right direction in regards machine suitable for this job?

    Site has not been fertilizer in decades if ever, soil sandy loam and when conditions are suitable grass growth is very good. Grass never collected.
    Don't fertilize unless you like mowing! As the clippings are constantly returned, that's plenty of nutrients. It's a football pitch, you you won't be mowing low like a golf course. It's the machine for the job, driven carefully. You might want to go commercial and Diesel second-hand for the same money, but you could be buying trouble. You'll probably burn 7+ litres juice on each cut, hard to know how dense the grass is. Chain it to the floor of clubhouse shed or a pillar, something new like this is desirable and all too easy to shift.

    Many thanks for advice deezell. No intention of applying any fertiliser, soil is top grade and will thrive if area managed properly and regular cutting.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    hi

    iv a ride on that wont start. not a thing happening when i turn the key. battery etc good. ignition lights up etc.

    iv bypassed everything by putting a wrench touching both cables before entering the solenoid, and the solenoid just spins freely. not turning the engine.

    Does this mean the solenoid is gone? but shud it not be doin this when i turn the key???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    hi

    iv a ride on that wont start. not a thing happening when i turn the key. battery etc good. ignition lights up etc.

    iv bypassed everything by putting a wrench touching both cables before entering the solenoid, and the solenoid just spins freely. not turning the engine.

    Does this mean the solenoid is gone? but shud it not be doin this when i turn the key???

    Are saying the starter motor goes round when power is applied. If so then its the cog on the starter motor that is probably stuck or all the teeth worn off. There are several methods starter motors work but the simplest on mowers is a cog that is held back by a spring, when the starter motor turns the cog is thrown forward engaging the teeth on the side of the flywheel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 453 ✭✭abnormalnorman


    my3cents wrote: »
    Are saying the starter motor goes round when power is applied. If so then its the cog on the starter motor that is probably stuck or all the teeth worn off. There are several methods starter motors work but the simplest on mowers is a cog that is held back by a spring, when the starter motor turns the cog is thrown forward engaging the teeth on the side of the flywheel.

    thanks.
    with the key, nothing happens. If i link both terminals of the solenoid with a wrench, the solenoid spins freely but that's it. not the starter.

    mower was goin grand until battery died and i took it out to charge it. then when i hooked it up the problems started. its a fairly new mower . . . starter n all looks fairly new. dont think its anything serious.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    thanks.
    with the key, nothing happens. If i link both terminals of the solenoid with a wrench, the solenoid spins freely but that's it. not the starter.

    mower was goin grand until battery died and i took it out to charge it. then when i hooked it up the problems started. its a fairly new mower . . . starter n all looks fairly new. dont think its anything serious.

    Sounds like you've put the battery on backwards. Key start probably won't do anything as there's likelu some reverse voltage protection. If you cross the solenoid terminals, and the motor (not the solenoid as you say) just spins, this would be because the starter motor is running backwards, so the the motor bendix is not driving the motor pinion into the engine ring gear. The bendix is like a coarse thread on the pinion, when the motor spins the inertia of the pinion means it screws out along the motor shaft and engages the ring gear. Spin the motor in reverse and it will stay at the motor end.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16 Cathalu


    Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on a walk behind lawnmower. I’ve taken over a house that need a lot of work and landscaping is way down the list. There are three lawns around the house of about 30m x 10m each. They have been let go and are rough and bumpy with some shrubs around them too. I’m looking to buy a lawnmower for approximately €400-500. I don’t know if I should go self drive or if I should be looking for something big or small etc. I hate mowing at the best of times and so the lawns are probably never going to be great. Any advice or recommendations would be really appreciated. I realise that this is way cheaper than what most people are talking about here.
    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,455 ✭✭✭deezell


    Cathalu wrote: »
    Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on a walk behind lawnmower. I’ve taken over a house that need a lot of work and landscaping is way down the list. There are three lawns around the house of about 30m x 10m each. They have been let go and are rough and bumpy with some shrubs around them too. I’m looking to buy a lawnmower for approximately €400-500. I don’t know if I should go self drive or if I should be looking for something big or small etc. I hate mowing at the best of times and so the lawns are probably never going to be great. Any advice or recommendations would be really appreciated. I realise that this is way cheaper than what most people are talking about here.
    Thanks again.

    Something like this for €399,
    https://www.gardenmachinery.ie/herkules-self-propelled-21-mower.html
    You can spend more for bigger cut, premium brand name, extra features, Briggs or Honda engines. Get at least a 51cm self propelled, cut at the highest setting to start, a few days later cut again at one or two settings below, and make that your standard height. If you want you can keep dropping until you can see the butt of the grass, you'll have a good idea of the quality of the ground underneath by then. Don't be tempted to shave it, even the roughest ground looks decent once you top off what's there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16 Cathalu


    Thanks so much for the advice. Really appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,087 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    Is it normal to do a brake in oil change for a new ride on. Online site for Snapper said to change after a few hours, but local store said its fine for the season.

    Whats the norm?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Is it normal to do a brake in oil change for a new ride on. Online site for Snapper said to change after a few hours, but local store said its fine for the season.

    Whats the norm?

    Depends on how lucky you are. The point of doing an oil change after the first few hours of use is that its wearing in during that period and that is when a lot of metal is deposited in the oil.

    I had a cheap Chinese engine on a chipper that I changed after 5 hours and the oil was grey with aluminium, fortunately I've not noticed that since.

    If you have a decent V twin engine with an oil filter maybe your OK but I'd still do the first oil change after say 5 hours use and no later than 10 hours.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,087 ✭✭✭Krombopulos Michael


    my3cents wrote: »
    Depends on how lucky you are. The point of doing an oil change after the first few hours of use is that its wearing in during that period and that is when a lot of metal is deposited in the oil.

    I had a cheap Chinese engine on a chipper that I changed after 5 hours and the oil was grey with aluminium, fortunately I've not noticed that since.

    If you have a decent V twin engine with an oil filter maybe your OK but I'd still do the first oil change after say 5 hours use and no later than 10 hours.

    Thanks. yeah its a good V twin B&S engine but ill change the oil this weekend as im nearing the 10hr mark. I assume filter to change also?


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