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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #692
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,446 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    dahat wrote: »
    100rpm, that's impressive.

    I switched to 11/25 and as a consequencey cadence has dropped but each time I try the 11 28 again I suffer from cramps, during & after a spin.
    Same here, and I used to be a grinder for many years but have found since talking to people more knowledgeable than me that you have to spin it to win it, if your cadence is dropping then the gearing is to high. In sprints etc. that is fine, or making a break but you will burn off alot of the immediately available energy and are more likely to blow up IMO. Get used to a higher cadence at a lower gear (same overall speed) and I would be pretty sure you will see improvements. I say this knowing you are a faster and stronger racer than me.

    Weepsie wrote: »
    Shorter cranks maybe?
    I went to 165mm and seen an instant reduction in issues. The jury is very out on it but my opinion would be down to a certain length (162.5 or 165mm), almost everyone should be fine but everyone has a max. Everyone kept saying I should be 175mm but I use 165mm and find spins in the same gearing on a bike with 175mm to be energy sapping.


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    #693
    Weepsie
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,835 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    I'm fairly sure Chris Boardman was going on about shorter cranks becoming standard a few years ago. I've 172.5 on most, but 175 on one, but I've bot cycled it in a long time and 175 to go onto a touring bike so I'll never really be in a top gear.


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    #694
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,268 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Anyone know what the lowest standard shimano crankset that would have crank compatibility with ultegra/ 105 cranks? Tiagra 4700 does, but does the most recent Sora?

    Not planning on doing it generally on the commute, but now I have a crank based power meter, I'd like the option of putting it on as that is the bike that comes on holiday. It's currently 9 speed, so a new BB/ crankset looks like the cheapest option. Struggling to justify a full Tiagra groupset, and it's an old enough frame (even though I really like it!). It'd be mainly for commuting, possible used to try cross in the Autumn and a few gravel/ fireroad spins.


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    #695
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    I can't quite tell if my pads are 52 or 55mm from the outside

    Is it the length of the rubber insert from end to end?
    Thanks


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    #696
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,446 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    I can't quite tell if my pads are 52 or 55mm from the outside

    Is it the length of the rubber insert from end to end?
    Thanks

    Yep, rubber insert length but remember, if your still not sure, you can trim down a 55 to 52, not the other way around


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    #697
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Yep, rubber insert length but remember, if your still not sure, you can trim down a 55 to 52, not the other way around

    Are the shinano pads all the same design?

    The ones I'm looking at seem to be the right ones, a slight taper on the width and a screw holding it


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    #698
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,446 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    Are the shinano pads all the same design?

    The ones I'm looking at seem to be the right ones, a slight taper on the width and a screw holding it

    If they are road brakes, then yes AFAIK but maybe wait until someone else confirms


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    #699
    Guffy
    Registered Users Posts: 8,033 ✭✭✭Guffy


    Can anyone advise on the best way to clean a rusted chain and gears?


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    #700
    saccades
    Registered Users Posts: 1,254 ✭✭✭saccades


    Guffy wrote: »
    Can anyone advise on the best way to clean a rusted chain and gears?

    Clean? Replace.



    A weak phosphoric acid solution will remove the rust and passivate the surface against further oxidation. Loads of DIY places sell it near the hammerite, rust gone or the like.


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    #701
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,316 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    how badly rusted? and what will the bike be used for?


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    #702
    Guffy
    Registered Users Posts: 8,033 ✭✭✭Guffy


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    how badly rusted? and what will the bike be used for?

    Jist to and from work, bout an 8k cycle each way. I think it's at the borderline between save and replace.


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    #703
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    The cassette and chainrings rusted too and is it just rust or have you oily crud build up on there too?


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    #704
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,316 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    not really a bike maintenance question - but nearly every time i connect my (cheapo) garmin to my phone via bluetooth, my phone informs me that there's a software update available for it, but it's fully up to date. garmin express lists a bunch of language updates, none of which i need. anyone else having this problem?


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    #705
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,268 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Well my connect app has been telling me "update available" for my 920xt several times a week recently.


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    #706
    LollipopJimmy
    Registered Users Posts: 5,429 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Same with my Garmin, I've no idea what garmin I have though, 500 I think. Every time I plug it in there's updates


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    #707
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,268 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Winter bike has a medium shimano cage which I run 11-32, the other a short cage with which I run 11-28. On the direct drive turbo, I currently use the winter bike, so it has an 11-32.

    If I swap that for 11-28, should I be ok using either bike without any adjustments? i.e. can I just mount and ride the bike that's set up for 11-32 on the road without issue?


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    #708
    Paul_Mc1988
    Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    You can throw the 11-28 on the bike with the medium cage but would need to swap the chain also. The gearing shouldn't need any adjustments but id put the chain on the big cog at the back and unscrew the b-screw a bit so its spaced a bit better


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    #709
    cython
    Registered Users Posts: 4,757 ✭✭✭cython


    Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »
    You can throw the 11-28 on the bike with the medium cage but would need to swap the chain also. The gearing shouldn't need any adjustments but id put the chain on the big cog at the back and unscrew the b-screw a bit so its spaced a bit better

    Shouldn't need to change the chain unless there's a difference in wear between the cassettes - the smallest and largest sprockets in 11-28 are within the range of 11-32 (i.e. on 11-32 before you hit the lowest you may be in 11-28 depending on the cassette progression), so the latter chain can work with the same derailleur setup. It will just mean the rear mech never extends as much as it might on 11-32. As you say the b-screw may need some tuning, but that's minor enough.


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    #710
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,268 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Thanks, I'm not going to bother now I've thought on it. It was to allow for a crank power meter swapping between bikes*, but that's actually more hassle than putting the 11-28 on the turbo and just taking the good bike on and off for the summer, and then doing the same in the winter with the winter bike! I was just being a bit dumb when I had the thought.

    *even though it is handy, on reflection I think a seasonal swap is better all around than trying to do it weekly.


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    #711
    Paul_Mc1988
    Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    cython wrote:
    Shouldn't need to change the chain unless there's a difference in wear between the cassettes - the smallest and largest sprockets in 11-28 are within the range of 11-32 (i.e. on 11-32 before you hit the lowest you may be in 11-28 depending on the cassette progression), so the latter chain can work with the same derailleur setup. It will just mean the rear mech never extends as much as it might on 11-32. As you say the b-screw may need some tuning, but that's minor enough.


    You learn somthing new everyday :). Them few extra links would save a few gram though :D


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    #712
    Ray Bloody Purchase
    Closed Accounts Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Ray Bloody Purchase


    I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

    Anyone else have problems with something like this?


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    #713
    Borderfox
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 10,257 Mod ✭✭✭✭Borderfox


    Ray Bloody Purchase wrote: »
    I got a new phone lately. Huawei P20. It doesn't seem to stay connected to my Garmin 520 at all. I have to pair and unpair it to get it to upload. I usually have to do it a few times before it joins up.

    Anyone else have problems with something like this?

    Usual answer is to factory reset the Garmin unit and start again.


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    #714
    Weepsie
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,835 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Turn off the phone and pair again. It's not enough to turn off bluetooth and have it back again. Happens with the 1030 and my phone sometimes. Turning the phone off and then on sees it pair.


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    #715
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    Can't recall if I asked this before but now that I'm off the bike for a few weeks I've time to sit and look at them and get things done like see to the run around bike and get it all nice and shiny again in it's twilight years.

    It's got some badly tattered shimano/brand decals on the chainstays and some other places but paint work is fine over all. I'm of a mind to removes those altogether but how some parts will just peel away but the rest is still stuck on fast? Thinking hair dryer and and something plastic that wont chip the paint?


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    #716
    saccades
    Registered Users Posts: 1,254 ✭✭✭saccades


    Hair dryer and WD-40 works well.


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    #717
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

    The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

    Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.


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    #718
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,213 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    North of 32 wrote: »
    My rear gears are slipping under load. I bought the bike in May and have been only been doing easy road riding - my research suggests this is fairly normal for new bikes after cables stretch.

    The shop where I bought the bike is looking for 40-60 euro to inspect/adjust/repair. The bike had its first inspection about 2 weeks ago and they charged me half price; 20 euro because it was the first inspection. I have not done much riding in the last 2 weeks. I'm new to bikes but I reckon they should've picked up on this. I think it's really bad form on their part.

    Is there anything I can do myself, straightforwardly, or should I look for a new bike shop? I don't have a problem spending money, but if I'm going to pay I expect a thorough check and not someone to grease my seatpost and tighten my breaks for 40 euro.
    Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.


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    #719
    North of 32
    Registered Users Posts: 307 ✭✭North of 32


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Was it a 2nd hand bike you bought? Surprised that the shop charged you for the first service.

    I bought it new. I know 1000euro isn't a lot in the world of bikes but I thought they would've thrown in a free service for that amount of money, or at least picked up on the slipping gears after charging me. Surely someone experienced would've sussed it? Maybe I'm being harsh.


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    #720
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,213 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

    Sounds like your gears just need to be adjusted..Watch this video..itll show you how to do it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bbk5RcH0bbQ


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    #721
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Yeah that's very poor service from the shop.

    That's piss poor service every bike shop I know always gets the new owner to come back after a 1-200km to do a check over on the bike with no charge.

    I wouldn't be going back there OP and I'd be inclined to go back tell them they're a right shower.

    As said the gears probably just need to be indexed correctly. You may get away with just using the barrel adjuster.


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