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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Jockey wheels - are the BBB Rollerboys any good?

    Decent tyres do make a big difference, but correct pressures are as important, no matter how bad/good your current tyres are.
    If your current tyres are 'good', but you don't feel the comfort/grip/confidence, try a page like http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html before changing them.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,803 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Jockey wheels - are the BBB Rollerboys any good?

    Decent tyres do make a big difference, but correct pressures are as important, no matter how bad/good your current tyres are.
    If your current tyres are 'good', but you don't feel the comfort/grip/confidence, try a page like http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html before changing them.

    Don't know about the BBB ones, but I've some tacx ones in the post for my SRAM rival derailleur.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,949 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Milk_Tray wrote: »
    do upgraded tyres make much of a difference? ....
    A difference in what way - speed/rolling resistance, puncture resistance, grip etc. ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,207 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Milk_Tray wrote: »
    do upgraded tyres make much of a difference? Hearing a few people mentioning grand prix 4000's and they are a 'must have',... are they really worth getting a set ?

    I have Conti GP4000 on 3 bikes and i love them. Ive been using them for years and i rarely get punctures (when i do get one, it's usually a sign that the tyre needs to be replaced)

    If your happy with your current tyres, dont change, but if your looking for a recommendation, then Conti's won't disappoint.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,431 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I was using my Rapid Robs at a little above 20psi. Pumped them up today to 40psi. An interesting but fun commute where it was alot more bouncy but on occasion a sensation came through the saddle that I am pretty sure I would have to pay good money to get done by someone else :pac:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    A difference in what way - speed/rolling resistance, puncture resistance, grip etc. ??

    Speed, & grip Id be most interested in


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,429 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Anybody know if 105 levers operate perfectly with Ultegra derailleurs?

    I want to move my Scott Speedster from Sora 9spd to 11spd. I have Ultegra 6800 Derailleurs and brakes and was going to pick up 105 5800 for the rest given the price difference and this being the bad weather bike.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,803 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    There is no reason they shouldn't.


  • Registered Users Posts: 679 ✭✭✭Get In There


    My new bike has tubeless tyres. I'm a little bit unclear what needs to be done if I get a flat mid ride? I ordered tubeless sealant at the time of ordering the bike but i'm afraid i'm not sure where it comes in? Feeling rather silly posting this question!


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,431 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    My new bike has tubeless tyres. I'm a little bit unclear what needs to be done if I get a flat mid ride? I ordered tubeless sealant at the time of ordering the bike but i'm afraid i'm not sure where it comes in? Feeling rather silly posting this question!

    I think the idea is that if you keep pedalling, you may lose pressure but it will seal the puncture and you can continue on your way.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    The idea behind tubeless is that it'll seal small punctures and you can reinflate with pump. If you get a flat mid ride, pump. If that doesn't work throw in the spare tube you carry when you are running tubeless tyres


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,949 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Anybody know if 105 levers operate perfectly with Ultegra derailleurs?...
    They do - I have 105 shifters with an Ultegra RD on one of my bikes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,409 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    looking to get a 160mm 27.5" fork at the moment, came across this lyrik rtc3 on ebay. Anyone with a keen eye tell me what year it is? looks to be a great deal (as long as customs dont kill me)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,180 ✭✭✭Thinkingaboutit


    There are likely a few Youtube vids, and first of all, what I can find out from taking a close look, but is unjamming one fork/cleaning, lubricating the other (switch missing, but even with a improvised one, it's still remains locked) on a Trek Marlin a reasonably easy job? I probably want to renew, clean and lubricate both to a good standard.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,206 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I picked up a cheap bike that is maybe one size too small and the frame looks to be a generic copy with stickers put on, but has nice finishing kit, Mavic Ksyrium wheels in great condition, a 9sp Tiagra groupset that also looks well looked after.

    I'm thinking of picking up a frame like this one
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cube-attain-frame-black-n-green-n-grey-693133

    and switching the components over.

    I know I'd need a new press fit BB - would the rest of the components fit? Would I need a new fork etc.?

    Is this a stupid idea? I can do basic maintenance - indexing gears, setting up brakes etc but I've never swapped over a full groupset or done a build myself


  • Registered Users Posts: 716 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    My first thought is... try a longer stem? Could save you a few quid and a lot of hassle.

    On the other hand, if you have the time, I say go for it! You'll need some specific BB tools and stuff, but if you get stuck you can always get your local bike shop to help out.

    Don't forget to factor in the price of bar tape / cables and outers / seatpost (if different diameter) etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,206 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    gaffmaster wrote: »
    My first thought is... try a longer stem? Could save you a few quid and a lot of hassle.

    On the other hand, if you have the time, I say go for it! You'll need some specific BB tools and stuff, but if you get stuck you can always get your local bike shop to help out.

    Don't forget to factor in the price of bar tape / cables and outers / seatpost (if different diameter) etc.
    Thanks - yes looks like seat post might not be standard, and I worry about running into problems with the BB and headset. I'll take it for a long ride tomorrow and decide then, it's a 52cm when all my other bikes are 54 so it might be just about doable (the saddle needs to be lowered too, whoever had it before must have been taller than me)


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,206 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Me again - I got a pair of Mavic Ksyrium Equipe wheels on a second hand bike I picked up. They are relatively new (I'd guess less than three years), with a Shimano 9-speed cassette. What are the chances I can just swap a 10-speed cassette on?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I assume it's got 9 speed shifters to match? I've never actually tried to use a 10 cassette on 9 speed shifters, would it just ignore the top or bottom of the cassette? Chain could be an issue too.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,431 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    If it is as Enfalide says, you have a 10 speed cassette lying around and want to get moving quickly, alas no, AFAIK, different spacing. One or two gears will work OK but the rest will just rub like crazy, jump up and down, and be a general pain in the hoop. Cost you alot more in the long run.

    Unless we are both wrong, you want to take the wheels off and put them on a 10speed bike and put a 10 speed cassette on, in that case they should be fine if they are less than 4 years old


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,206 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Sorry should have been clearer. The Mavic wheels are on a 9-speed Tiagra bike at the moment - I have another ten speed bike but the wheels are a bit knackered - I'd like to swap over cassettes, put the 10-speed cassette on the Mavic wheels, and use these on the 10 Speed bike (so shifters etc. are ok, just worried about spacing / the hubs being ok for 10 speed)


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,431 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Sorry should have been clearer. The Mavic wheels are on a 9-speed Tiagra bike at the moment - I have another ten speed bike but the wheels are a bit knackered - I'd like to swap over cassettes, put the 10-speed cassette on the Mavic wheels, and use these on the 10 Speed bike (so shifters etc. are ok, just worried about spacing / the hubs being ok for 10 speed)

    That should be fine, you may need a spacer for the 10 speed, which may already be on your older wheels. They are cheap enough to get if you don't have one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 975 ✭✭✭8valve


    all mavic hubs manufactured for the last 5 years can take 7/8/9/10/11 cassettes, according to mavic, whose wheels we sell in work...just use spacers accordingly.

    for those of you reeling in horror at how someone could manage with only 7, 8 or 9 sprockets on a cassette...I like to use modern wheels on old steel racing bikes as part of neo-retro restorations...best of both worlds.

    Old school cool frame with reliable modern mechanicals.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    8valve wrote: »
    ...for those of you reeling in horror at how someone could manage with only 7, 8 or 9 sprockets on a cassette...I like to use modern wheels on old steel racing bikes as part of neo-retro restorations...best of both worlds.

    Old school cool frame with reliable modern mechanicals.

    Damn straight - I work in a bike shop that sells & services mostly commuter and "around town" bikes, and our biggest-selling cassettes are 8 & 9 speed, with plenty of 7 (& some 6)-speed freewheels being fitted each week too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,206 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Thanks guys for the help - I'm assuming they are less than 5 years old as they look it, and I have older Ksyriums from 2010 or so which have different decals. Having looked it up I'll need two spacers - a 1mm Shimano and a 1.75mm Mavic one (which was already on with the 9-speed cassette but broken). I've ordered both so should get it done in the next few days.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,429 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I needed a spacer and Eurocycles had them in stock. The guy charged me a euro for a couple


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,431 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I needed a spacer and Eurocycles had them in stock. The guy charged me a euro for a couple

    +1 eurocycles are quite good for such things, and one of the few bikeshops that seem to hold such stuff in stock.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭triggermortis


    My latest project is to juggle the groupsets on two bikes. My commuter front mech has given up totally (broken spring) and is an old Sora triple, with thumb shifters.
    My winter bike has a truvativ crank and tiagra shifters.
    I previously replaced the bottom bracket on the triple - easy enough to ID as there was a number stamped on it. The winter bike BB has no markings. Both bikes are hollowtech external bottom brackets, so is a reasonable enough assumption that I can leave each BB where it is?
    I intend to put the winter bikes groupset onto the commuter and replace the parts on the winter bike with upgraded Ultegra/105 parts.
    I could just see if the cranks I have will physically fit onto the other bike, but this would leave me without a bike short term. I don't have all the parts I need yet, although if the cranks do swap over, I could do 80% of one swap.
    I can measure the external width of the bottom brackets tomorrow, which should give me a better idea before I dismantle anything, but was wondering if anyone would have an answer to give me something to think about while I'm in work..


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,282 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i've seen a couple of aldi stores with 3in1 motorbike chain specific products - a cleaner, a lube, and a wax. worth a punt for a bike? or do they have to worry less about crud getting on the chain?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Not suitable for bikes - motorbike chains run at much higher speeds, so their lubricants are "anti-fling", and the whole bike runs much faster and generates much more wheel-spray, so they are much thicker and water resistant - however, on a bicycle chain, they act like treacle and attract loads of dirt, and are really hard to clean.

    I get them into the shop for service now and again, and it's like dried glue (and the owners think that the chain is still lubricated, because the outside of the links is still encrusted, whereas in fact the inside of the chain, where it counts, is dry and the chain is often worn out).


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