Live self-Builds - mod warning in post no. 1

So... Got the BER rating today.
A3 we got, happy with that

I was very dissapointed with the 2.9 we got on the AT test as we were aiming for 1. Feel a lot of details were overlooked by the builder even with a very detailed spec. Kinda felt a bit fobbed off (though he himself was delighted).

Also would have loved an A2 but got an A3 last week. With all the insulation, efficient A2W heating, 3G windows, MVHR etc, I'm at a loss as to what more we should have done. BER guy said 'a couple of PV panels would have brought us up to A2' but that wouldn't have been a wise financial investment at this stage imo. Is that really the only difference!?

As they always say, you really need to build 2 houses to get it right!

are those number air changes per hour or the other measurement I think its air permeability M3/hr/m2 or something like that?

I saw that 5 M3/hr/m2 was the normal practice and less than 3 was best practice for mech ventilated houses...

Phillip Mammoth Jury wrote: »

Its the rate of air loss/gain measured at a pressure of 50pascals over a set period/hour. Measure in positive pressure as well as negative pressure.

5m3 isnt very good at all.
3m3 in todays best practice, with todays knowledge isnt great either.

Soon the 0.6m2 Passive standard will be the regulation.

The passive standard is german right? and they measure Air changes per hour don't they? This why I'm confused.. the guys earlier weren't clear on which they were using....air changes or rate of loss

How do you compare make a comparison between 0.6 and 3 m3 if they are different standards?

Phillip Mammoth Jury wrote: »

Passive standard is universal and a personal choice. But pretty soon a lot of the Passive parameters will be adopted by Building Regulations. Dun Laoghaire Rathdown have already adopted it in some part.

Air Changes is the term for actual rate of loss of air in a structure.

An Airtight test will give a figure measured as n50 which is an average result of Pressurisation and depressurisation of your envelope(total surface area) at a pressure of 50Pa.

This will read as a figure for example 0.6 ACH@50Pa. ACH being a figure measured as m3/h/m2

Current standard for air tightness testing: ISO 9972
Air permeability at 50Pa - q(e50), measured in m³/m2*h, means the air leakage rate (q50), measured by the blower door machine, divided through the total building envelope area
Air changes at 50Pa - n(50), measured in 1/h, means the air leakage rate (q50), measured by the blower door machine again, divided through the total building volume.
The regulation in Ireland is focused to the air permeability, whilst countries like Germany point out the air changes. A certified air tightness test according to ISO 9972 requires both values as result.
The passive house level for air tightness with a maximum of 0.6 ACH @ 50Pa has to be achieved with the building preparation method "building in use", which means nothing else than I won´t be allowed to tape openings for the mHRV or cooker hood extractor during my air tightness test.

From next year onwards the required air permeability is maximum 5m³/m²*h and 3m³/m²*h for buildings with mechanical heat recovery ventilation. In my honest oppinion, I wouldn´t be happy with values of more than 2m³/m²*h for a new built or deep retrofit.

Carrickbeg wrote: »

So im finished building my house. Whats the correct name of the cert i get off my supervising engineer.?

Even if you are on opt out he should at least provide you with Form BR SE 9202. This is a certificate offering an opinion of compliance with the planning permission and the building regulations.

Would really appreciate a PM on your window choice and why. We are picking soon; any input welcome.

You could patch that and let it up the inside of the door frame. You could make up a tray to let that door sit into aswell with a new wide piece that would sit under the door and catch any water from it and carry it away under the door and out.
If you want level access make sure your door supplier gives you a low threshold door and clearly mark your FFL before they are fitted to be sure of having the inside and outside as seemless as possible

magnethead wrote: »

Consistant advise, DOn't you love it!! So the question is, do I cut the ends off these hangers or not?? One carpenter said it didn't mattter, while another said put 4!! (there is only room for 2) twisted nails in it, because all the weight is hanging on this area?
So are the tabs important at the top of the hanger?
Thanks, Keep the advise consistant haha

Probably best to bend them over and nail them . Damn near as quick and handy as cutting them really . Is the timber 6x2 ? They might have been to fit 9x2's so that might be why one chippy is saying to just cut them.
I'd nail the two holes on the bottom of the joist holder aswell , they are all meant to be nailed by design and the bottom two might avoid a crack in the plaster if the joist moves a bit in the holder .