Advice thread for Novice Woodturners.

magicbastarder · 16-02-2020 12:09am

magicbastarder wrote: »

one thing that is annoying me at the moment

i'll add another one now. the number of videos i've seen on youtube where the narrator talks about turning a 'tenant' on a piece is bizarre.

Xianders · 19-02-2020 6:40pm

alexsandro22 wrote: »

Hey. I just started working with wood and I worked with a Remington chainsaw. Should I buy it or maybe change it to Jonsered brand? Wich one is better for beginner? Thanks

It is impossible to answer unequivocally. If I were you, I would recommend reading some reviews about these chainsaws.

alexsandro22 · 19-02-2020 7:03pm

Xianders wrote: »

It is impossible to answer unequivocally. If I were you, I would recommend reading some reviews about these chainsaws.

I know that and I've already checked reviews about Jonsored and Remignton chainsaws at bestchainsawadviser. I used to own remington RM1425 but now I would like to try Remington RM4620. This model is very similar to the larger RM4620 Outlaw, but it has a more balanced feel. What can you say about this model?

magicbastarder · 01-03-2020 12:07am

magicbastarder wrote: »

one thing that is annoying me at the moment is that even though my shed is reasonably dry inside - i've never had any real issue with rust on tools, for example - it's been so damp - i.e. humid - recently (as in the last year or two) that often when i turn a piece that should be dry, there's noticeable cracking/shifting when i bring it inside.
i'm going to have to start storing wood inside the house, and bringing it outside just when i need to turn it.

anyone have any recommendations on readily available and reasonably cheap moisture meters?

Vizzy · 01-05-2020 7:18pm

Ok, so I have taken the first jump into the rabbit hole.

Have a Holzmann 460 lathe and chisels and various other bits and bobs that will probably be useful for woodturning (small bandsaw and small tablesaw, hammers, pliers, measuring tapes etc). Have safety gear too - Visor, ear protection and I have made up an extraction system with a hoover and a home made tornado system.

For the next while I will probably only practice on scrap wood to see what I can produce , so no real "projects" planned.

Suggestions needed for;
Sharpening of chisels - not in a position to buy Tormek or anything like it for the moment !!
How easy/hard is it to sharpen chisels by hand ? Would a simple Waterstone and possibly a jig or two suffice for the moment?
Chuck & Jaws - would something like this https://www.iedepot.ie/images/detailed/2/sip06853.jpg be ok for an initial foray into plate/bowl turning ? ( Not necessarily this actual one). Is this all I need or do I need anything else like jaws ?

What else do I need to get started ?

Given that I can't get anywhere open to do lessons or even source wood I will have to plod along on my own for the moment, but I do have a pal in work who is a carpentry teacher and keen woodturner who can give me some verbal tips, but I can't visit him to view his setup and get a bit of tuition

Any help greatly appreciated.

Sparks · 03-05-2020 2:40pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

anyone have any recommendations on readily available and reasonably cheap moisture meters?

The ohmmeter off your multimeter? I mean, if we're talking what-to-use-in-a-lockdown-pinch here, that's all that the moisture meters with prongs are doing (the non-contact ones are a touch fancier).

Or, Farnell carry a range of them and are delivering (next day delivery as standard). Eg. https://cpcireland.farnell.com/duratool/d03309/moisture-meter-pocket/dp/IN08368

magicbastarder · 03-05-2020 2:44pm

Cheers, I picked up a cheap as chips one the had in Aldi or Lidl a few weeks ago.

Sparks · 03-05-2020 2:46pm

Doh, just noticed the date on your post. Oh well

bamayang · 02-09-2020 9:35pm

Anyone looking for good value tools get onto Glenn Lucas Instagram page. He is selling off a huge amount of old chisels and tools and chucks for very cheap prices.

magicbastarder · 03-09-2020 12:03am

worth noting that it's cash and collection only.

bamayang · 03-09-2020 7:12am

Picked up the tormek off him with about 10 different jigs. Great value.

magicbastarder · 20-09-2020 8:37pm

strangely, i've never turned eggcups before but have been asked to do so by someone.
simple question though, when turning the cup, should the inside of cup itself be hemispherical? or perhaps more conical?

just wondering if there's a particular curvature to the inside of the cup which deals well with a differing range of egg sizes and shapes.

bamayang · 28-10-2020 11:16am

Anyone ever use a bowl saver coring type unit? Any feedback on the different ones?

kadman · 28-10-2020 11:32am

bamayang wrote: »

Anyone ever use a bowl saver coring type unit? Any feedback on the different ones?

I know timfromtang has one, so he should be able to give you some advice on them,

k

mayo.mick · 28-10-2020 3:13pm

bamayang wrote: »

Anyone ever use a bowl saver coring type unit? Any feedback on the different ones?

You need a fairly big and powerful lathe to use one of these!

bamayang · 28-10-2020 10:55pm

mayo.mick wrote: »

You need a fairly big and powerful lathe to use one of these!

Have a Jet 1642 which should have the power for it, especially at the lower belt setting.
Did a 15” ash bowl over the weekend, criminal waste in shavings.

bamayang · 28-10-2020 10:57pm

kadman wrote: »

I know timfromtang has one, so he should be able to give you some advice on them,

k

I think I remember Glenn Lucas saying some of them aren’t well designed and can actually end up being a bit dangerous. Think he uses the one way and it seems one of the most straight forward.

mayo.mick · 28-10-2020 11:09pm

bamayang wrote: »

Have a Jet 1642 which should have the power for it, especially at the lower belt setting.
Did a 15” ash bowl over the weekend, criminal waste in shavings.

Ah that should be well able to handle a coring system. Criminal waste alright when hollowing out large bowls.

kadman · 29-10-2020 9:28am

I would love one myself but they are mighty expensive for a one off turner.

Alun · 29-10-2020 11:13am

kadman wrote: »

I would love one myself but they are mighty expensive for a one off turner.

I get the impression they're meant for people who are production turning, making large quantities of roughly the same shape bowls in different sizes. The shape of the knife basically dictates the shape of the bowl, i.e. a fairly basic single curve, so no real scope for other designs. Also, as someone else pointed out, you need a pretty beefy lathe both in terms of sturdiness but also a pretty powerful motor, because of the friction on the coring knife.

magicbastarder · 29-10-2020 11:32am

yeah, i was rough turning a bowl the other day, watching most of it go to waste, but thinking the exact same thing - that a coring system would mean all my bowls were the same. i doubt my lathe is big or powerful enough to justify one anyway (12" max diameter)

bamayang · 29-10-2020 11:38am

Alun wrote: »

I get the impression they're meant for people who are production turning, making large quantities of roughly the same shape bowls in different sizes. The shape of the knife basically dictates the shape of the bowl, i.e. a fairly basic single curve, so no real scope for other designs. Also, as someone else pointed out, you need a pretty beefy lathe both in terms of sturdiness but also a pretty powerful motor, because of the friction on the coring knife.

Ya I think your right about that, it’s def a hard to justify cost. But the way I look at any lathe related investments, most of them will almost outlast me, the technology doesn’t change.

A good lathe/sharpening system/chisels/chuck will easily last 20 years if minded. So while they are expensive, it’s not the same as other hobbies like where pc’s or cycling/golf equipment seems to require more often upgrades.

And I actually make almost every bowl the same style, which is the style that comes off a coring system. I really like the idea of a set of nested bowls.

mayo.mick · 29-10-2020 4:50pm

bamayang wrote: »

Ya I think your right about that, it’s def a hard to justify cost. But the way I look at any lathe related investments, most of them will almost outlast me, the technology doesn’t change.

A good lathe/sharpening system/chisels/chuck will easily last 20 years if minded. So while they are expensive, it’s not the same as other hobbies like where pc’s or cycling/golf equipment seems to require more often upgrades.

And I actually make almost every bowl the same style, which is the style that comes off a coring system. I really like the idea of a set of nested bowls.

At some point in the future I might be tempted to make up a smaller verision of the coring system to suit my own lathe. I'd say my lathe, on the lowest pully setting should be able to cope with 12" bowls.

magicbastarder · 30-11-2020 10:40am

having great fun at the moment turning bowls from sycamore/maple/acer of some sort (i happened across some tree surgeons taking a dead standing tree down in glasnevin last year and they let me take some).
i've not come across a wood before where i have these problems with vibration, and even using freshly sharpened tools i have to take very light cuts otherwise it get mad vibration spirals.

i guess it must be quite flexible or has some other property that it can vibrate in that way on the lathe? happens at various different speeds too.

bamayang · 30-11-2020 9:29pm

magicbastarder wrote: »

having great fun at the moment turning bowls from sycamore/maple/acer of some sort (i happened across some tree surgeons taking a dead standing tree down in glasnevin last year and they let me take some).
i've not come across a wood before where i have these problems with vibration, and even using freshly sharpened tools i have to take very light cuts otherwise it get mad vibration spirals.

i guess it must be quite flexible or has some other property that it can vibrate in that way on the lathe? happens at various different speeds too.

I’m not sure the cause of your issue, but I got a great tip a year back for when turning open grained wood. To put majority of pressure onto the tool rest rather than pushing into the wood. The open grain meant the tool was going in and out of the grain causing it to vibrate and leave a rippled surface.
Might not be the issue your having, but worth trying. I noticed a big change afterwards.

bamayang · 01-01-2021 8:09pm

Any issue using bog oak for a mortar and pestle? Or is Yew safe for similar application?

magicbastarder · 01-01-2021 8:13pm

i was listening to a podcast the other day where it was claimed that a significant amount (i can't remember if they said 'most') of bog oak turns out to be scots pine. message was anyway that wood found in a bog is usually termed bog oak as a catch all - so to get to the point, i suspect you'd need to know what wood it is in case it's actually softer than you expect.

i wouldn't use yew though - i expect that any toxicity would only transfer to the food in miniscule amounts, but yew wouldn't be considered food safe.

bamayang · 01-01-2021 8:30pm

Ya I’ve heard Yew is dangerous stuff, so prob best to give that one a miss.
I’ve turned some of the bog oak already and it’s like concrete, so I think it should be a good fit.

magicbastarder · 02-01-2021 8:44pm

anyone have any tips or knacks for sanding into tight curves in bowls?
i can't hand sand because it's a natural edge bowl, so i'd be sanding into air for about half of each revolution. and my two inch sanding discs i can use on the drill are too wide for the tight curve.

Sparks · 02-01-2021 9:06pm

Never seen anyone do that any other way than turning off the lathe and sanding by hand or with a power sander on a static piece to be honest. I've seen people recommend having a backing pad behind the paper like a sanding sponge when sanding on the lathe where there's a gap mid-revolution, but that was more for cases where you have something like a part with flutes or texturing or whatever, not actual dead air and an edge coming down on your fingers at 60rpm.

Advice thread for Novice Woodturners.

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