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Electric heater/radiator

  • 05-02-2020 7:45pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5,115 ✭✭✭


    Hi all, I am looking to buy an electric heater. I am currently house sharing and the house is very cold. I am looking at different models on the Argos catalogue.

    I’m not sure which wattage is suitable? I really don’t mind really.

    The only thing is, I can’t have this electric radiator causing a noticeable increase in the electrical bill.


    My room would be 5 meters by 3.5 or there about! With double glazed windows.

    Thanks for any suggestions or advice in advanced..


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,763 ✭✭✭con747


    job seeker wrote: »
    Hi all, I am looking to buy an electric heater. I am currently house sharing and the house is very cold. I am looking at different models on the Argos catalogue.

    I’m not sure which wattage is suitable? I really don’t mind really.

    The only thing is, I can’t have this electric radiator causing a noticeable increase in the electrical bill.


    My room would be 5 meters by 3.5 or there about! With double glazed windows.

    Thanks for any suggestions or advice in advanced..

    You probably need a heater around 3kw to heat a room that size. Depends on insulation in the house though.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,115 ✭✭✭job seeker


    con747 wrote: »
    You probably need a heater around 3kw to heat a room that size. Depends on insulation in the house though.

    I see! It would be an old enough house.. probably 30/40 years old... I couldn’t tell you how well insulated it would be, as the oil is never on long enough to fully heat the house..

    It’s on for 2.5 hours in the morning and 3.0 hours in the evening.. which sounds long enough, but the house does be very cold during the winter..


  • Registered Users Posts: 25,326 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    job seeker wrote: »
    I’m not sure which wattage is suitable? I really don’t mind really.

    The only thing is, I can’t have this electric radiator causing a noticeable increase in the electrical bill.

    Those two statements are completely at variance with one another. If you notice the heat, you will notice the increase in the bill.

    The 3 kw heater recommended by con747 will use one unit (kilowatt hour) in 20 minutes. Plug that in frequently and your bill will be through the roof.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,763 ✭✭✭con747


    job seeker wrote: »
    I see! It would be an old enough house.. probably 30/40 years old... I couldn’t tell you how well insulated it would be, as the oil is never on long enough to fully heat the house..

    It’s on for 2.5 hours in the morning and 3.0 hours in the evening.. which sounds long enough, but the house does be very cold during the winter..

    It is irrelevant whether it is a 1kw, 2kw, or 3kw heater as they will all cost a kw per hour to run. I just said what size would heat that size room to a comfortable standard. I'm sure all heaters would eventually heat the room if left on long enough. Depending on your electricity supplier it could range anywhere from about 18c to 24c per hour to run per kw used.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 25,326 ✭✭✭✭coylemj


    con747 wrote: »
    It is irrelevant whether it is a 1kw, 2kw, or 3kw heater as they will all cost a kw per hour to run.

    Only a 1 kW heater will consume one unit (kWh) per hour. A 2 kW appliance will consume two units per hour and a 3 kW ....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,763 ✭✭✭con747


    coylemj wrote: »
    Only a 1 kW heater will consume one unit (kWh) per hour. A 2 kW appliance will consume two units per hour and a 3 kW ....

    Read end of above post. I might not have stated that at the beginning but it is there at the end.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    Might be worth saying;
    To help improve the quality of heat which you already have coming from the radiator in your room would be to perhaps fit some RadFlect foil behind the existing radiator which does help put the heat outwards rather then in to the cold wall; it wont affect anything structural it comes on a roll for €10.50 in woodies
    Link: https://www.woodies.ie/roll-reflect-heat-reflecting-barrier-365958

    I've fitted it in my house before it's like bubble wrap with tinfoil works well.

    Another option is to fit an Aladdin automatic bleed valve to the existing radiator which automatically let's air out from the radiator ensuring maximum capacity of water for heat output,
    Available here: https://purchase.ie

    But perhaps cheaper here by cutting out the middle man:
    https://smartgreenshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Aladdin
    Ship via parcelmotel or AddressPal to save on shipping costs

    Both good websites there for cost saving items.

    If you notice cold spots in any of the radiators after bleeding; then perhaps ask the landlord to flush the heating system which is to drain the system out at the boiler then refill with fresh water aswell as an inhibitor such as Endotherm.
    Link: https://smartgreenshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=Endotherm
    Not a big job atall and well worth doing to optimise heat output.

    Heavy lined curtains would also help and a duck feather duvet in all seriousness a 13.5Togg available in Argos or HomeStore and more do good deals on them too. Light and very warm.

    Heres some pictures of the radflect I once had fitted before changing to Milano designer steel radiators which have a higher heat output due to there banister design theres more surface to air contact I've also fitted Aladdin automatic bleed valves,
    It's not essential to remove the radiator when fitting the radflect; it just slides down if you cut two slits for the brackets; I went with a large section because I fitted radiator covers over them afterwards but it's on a roll you cut it to size yourself and doesn't affect anything other than the heat output which it improves, bang for buck it's worth considering at €10.50 from woodies doesn't weigh more than bubble wrap and will provide a bit more heat; you probably will still need a heater of which I recommend an oil filled heater but the radflect will save you a bit on the cost of using the new heater as a top up to maintain temperature


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,260 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    You could rebalance the rads through the house if someone is being tight.
    Your one open fully, living area turned significantly down.


  • Registered Users Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    mickdw wrote: »
    You could rebalance the rads through the house if someone is being tight.
    Your one open fully, living area turned significantly down.

    Excellent tip that;
    Especially if the fellow occupants are millennial's which cant turn a screw unless it has a keyboard attached
    Then they wont have a clue that you did anything od how to change it lol :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,637 ✭✭✭brightspark


    A calculator such as the one linked below will give you an approximate answer in BTUs and Watts. (Watts and BTUs can be easily converted from one to another just like miles and kilometers. For W to BTU/h conversions, 1 W is equal to 3.41 BTU/h. Therefore to convert BTU/h into Watts you need to divide by 3.41; to convert Watts into BTU/h you need to multiply by 3.41).

    They can only be an approximation of course as exact conditions vary. If you want enough heat you should opt for a larger heater than the result and use with a thermostat control (often built in)

    https://www.bestheating.ie/btu-calculator?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsvTxBRDkARIsAH4W_j-Af6KcQsKtov1PU4JIpcTabwdrQZGhMhju1o7mlF8JjuVhhQ_nKfgaAqQEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


    A good video here on how heating works

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3pE_mDwCpk


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