Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread II

timple23 · 22-10-2020 7:15pm

If anyone is looking for a suction holder for a machine clock, a tile drilling rig is what the guy is selling on donedeal, can be bought for much cheaper online, just need to take out an e clip and flip the plate around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868804-Tile-Drilling-Jig/dp/B000T9W442

funkey_monkey · 22-10-2020 7:45pm

Tricked-Out Tractors begins Monday, October 26 on BBC One Northern Ireland, 7.35pm and is a lso available on BBC iPlayer.

https://www.televisual.com/news/green-inc-to-make-tricked-out-tractors-for-bbc-ni_nid-8465/

funkey_monkey · 22-10-2020 7:49pm

timple23 wrote: »

If anyone is looking for a suction holder for a machine clock, a tile drilling rig is what the guy is selling on donedeal, can be bought for much cheaper online, just need to take out an e clip and flip the plate around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868804-Tile-Drilling-Jig/dp/B000T9W442

Could be useful as the one we have keeps losing suction and dropping the controller on to the side panel.

emaherx · 22-10-2020 8:01pm

timple23 wrote: »

If anyone is looking for a suction holder for a machine clock, a tile drilling rig is what the guy is selling on donedeal, can be bought for much cheaper online, just need to take out an e clip and flip the plate around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868804-Tile-Drilling-Jig/dp/B000T9W442

That's a good find. I could do with some of them.

patsy_mccabe · 22-10-2020 8:25pm

NcdJd wrote: »

Anyone know where I can get a replacement hydraulic oil tank cap for a david brown 1590 ? Searched everywhere online but can find anything other than fuel and oil caps. This is only covering it.

What you need is a "1" BSPP Pipe Thread Square Head Plug". A simple plug for a pipe fitting.

It's just a return, so no pressure on it. I took mine off my DB 995 and replaced it with a 1/2" fitting for a Hyd Hose. I use it as a return for the Logsplitter or postdriver. Handier to have than the simple plug. I'll take a pick of the other side of the fitting tomorrow.

Take off your tap and double check teh outer diameter of the tap thread. Should be 33.3mm (or slightly smaller Like mine) for 1" BSPP.
https://www.astonfittings.com/products/square-head-plug.html

NcdJd · 22-10-2020 8:40pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

What you need is a "1" BSPP Pipe Thread Square Head Plug". A simple plug for a pipe fitting.

It's just a return, so no pressure on it. I took mine off my DB 995 and replaced it with a 1/2" fitting for a Hyd Hose. I use it as a return for the Logsplitter or postdriver. Handier to have than the simple plug. I'll take a pick of the other side of the fitting tomorrow.

Take off your tap and double check teh outer diameter of the tap thread. Should be 33.3mm (or slightly smaller Like mine) for 1" BSPP.
https://www.astonfittings.com/products/square-head-plug.html

Thanks for that Patsy, much appreciated, I'll check this tomorrow.

patsy_mccabe · 23-10-2020 12:51pm

Here is the stack on fittings I put on instead of the plug below.
From bottom - 1" BSPP to 1/2" reducer
Mid - 1/2" BSPP male to 1/2" Hose Male fitting (JIC)
Top - Cap for hose fitting

I use this as my return for the Log Splitter.

NcdJd · 23-10-2020 12:55pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Here

Thanks again Patsy was talking to my brother last night and he's gonna root around at the weekend for what you suggested. Wouldn't mind it was him who feckin lost it

patsy_mccabe · 23-10-2020 1:01pm

Here's the plug I took off. It's a 1" BSPP plug, but a square hollow. A 1/2" drive wrench will take it off.

The elbow fitting is actually 1" BSPT (tapered) but a parallel fitting will fit it fine.

(Edited above post too)

NcdJd · 23-10-2020 1:06pm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

....

I'm gonna have another check around the backend later on. I'm still convinced it fell or is wedged somewhere.

patsy_mccabe · 23-10-2020 1:11pm

NcdJd wrote: »

I'm gonna have another check around the backend later on. I'm still convinced it fell or is wedged somewhere.

The plug is actually a plumbing fitting, so any hardware store might have them.
,

893bet · 25-10-2020 2:27pm

Any objections to during mower in up position for winter?

Waffletraktor · 25-10-2020 2:36pm

893bet wrote: »

Any objections to during mower in up position for winter?

Like a power harrow keep it somewhere dry so you know if the bed leaks?

893bet · 25-10-2020 2:44pm

Waffletraktor wrote: »

Like a power harrow keep it somewhere dry so you know if the bed leaks?

It’s normally in the field flat. If bed leaked you wouldn’t have a hope of seeing it. That shed is fairly dry. Would see oil gather underneath. As it’s upright there will only be oil in a small part of the bed anyway.

Just wondering if it’s ok upright. I can’t see any issue but thought someone else might have seen an issue before.

BullBauld · 25-10-2020 2:50pm

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Is it for an IW?

Yes an Ifor Williams

wrangler · 25-10-2020 3:00pm

Waffletraktor wrote: »

Like a power harrow keep it somewhere dry so you know if the bed leaks?

There's a vent screw on the gearbox of my mower that leaks sometimes if I leave it in the up position. I store it down flat but sometimes leave it in the up position on the tractor. It doesn't leak very often, maybe once a season, don't know why
As you say leave it somewhere dry

zetecescort · 25-10-2020 3:53pm

should be fine upright once its safe and secure.

Base price · 25-10-2020 4:51pm

My brother put a cap on the Fiat. He removed the sun roof, heater radiator and cut out all the rusty metal. He welded in new bits to carry the roof, re did the wiring for the lights, put in new switches overhead, fixed the wiper motor (I can't remember it working) cut out part of the floor that had a hole and replaced with aluminium chequered plate, plated and bolted the near side door/hinges and cut out and replaced other bits. I have to get clear carbon/perspex stuff for both doors and we still have to put the new second hand tyres on the front. It watertight now which is a luxury in itself

Reggie. · 25-10-2020 5:34pm

Base price wrote: »

My brother put a cap on the Fiat. He removed the sun roof, heater radiator and cut out all the rusty metal. He welded in new bits to carry the roof, re did the wiring for the lights, put in new switches overhead, fixed the wiper motor (I can't remember it working) cut out part of the floor that had a hole and replaced with aluminium chequered plate, plated and bolted the near side door/hinges and cut out and replaced other bits. I have to get clear carbon/perspex stuff for both doors and we still have to put the new second hand tyres on the front. It watertight now which is a luxury in itself

Savage

raypallas · 25-10-2020 6:42pm

Base price wrote: »

My brother put a cap on the Fiat. He removed the sun roof, heater radiator and cut out all the rusty metal. He welded in new bits to carry the roof, re did the wiring for the lights, put in new switches overhead, fixed the wiper motor (I can't remember it working) cut out part of the floor that had a hole and replaced with aluminium chequered plate, plated and bolted the near side door/hinges and cut out and replaced other bits. I have to get clear carbon/perspex stuff for both doors and we still have to put the new second hand tyres on the front. It watertight now which is a luxury in itself

Looks the part, would you be better off to get the proper glass, polycarbonate or perspex will always discolour. Couldn't be too dear.

NcdJd · 25-10-2020 7:08pm

She'll be grand now for another 30 years

Base price · 25-10-2020 7:20pm

raypallas wrote: »

Looks the part, would you be better off to get the proper glass, polycarbonate or perspex will always discolour. Couldn't be too dear.

I doubt you would get the correct shaped ones anymore. OH knows a guy who has those poly carbonate sheets and my brother said he would cut and fit them.

Odelay · 25-10-2020 7:33pm

Base price wrote: »

I doubt you would get the correct shaped ones anymore. OH knows a guy who has those poly carbonate sheets and my brother said he would cut and fit them.

Any of the guys doing glass for machinery will be able to cut and temper glass to size. Not sure of the cost but might be worth a call.

zetecescort · 25-10-2020 7:56pm

local windscreen place here cut glass for an old Duncan cab for me a few years ago. any shape as long as it was a flat pane of glass. only thing he couldn't do was drill holes for handles or hinges

funkey_monkey · 25-10-2020 8:52pm

BullBauld wrote: »

Yes an Ifor Williams

Parts list is here - roofs are listed on page 102:
https://www.iwt.co.uk/iwt-parts/download/4290

Can't find an accurate price but, this is the only one I can get (roof prices on pg 6):
https://www.barlowtrailers.co.uk/image/catalog/PDF/Ifor-Williams-Parts-Price-List-2016-17.pdf

Cross ref the part no from the first into the price list - works out at about £100 - £150 per sheet depending on the trailer - bear in mind that price list is from 16/17. Each trailer requires two.

Do you need two or is the damage confined to a single side?

You will get steel sheets from your local fabricator cheaper, but they'll not have the heat reflective surface that IW put on them. You could paint them though. I'm not 100% as I've not done this job before, but I don't think they need to be rolled to fit the roof frame profile - I think if you start at the upper vents and work towards the centre line then the rivets should pull it into place - just get it al squared before you start and don't overbore the holes when taking out the existing rivets.

I'm not sure what a plain sheet would cost locally - it would be roughly 10' x 4' x 2" - if it was a TA510 10ft - as the sheet is jointed along the centre ridge (I think). You'll need a tube of seam sealer too.

If you do decide to do it yourself, I'd recommend not using the self drives with the hex heads as they can catch on cattle - best using rivets or pancake head self drive.

dzer2 · 25-10-2020 8:55pm

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Parts list is here - roofs are listed on page 102:
https://www.iwt.co.uk/iwt-parts/download/4290

Can't find an accurate price but, this is the only one I can get (roof prices on pg 6):
https://www.barlowtrailers.co.uk/image/catalog/PDF/Ifor-Williams-Parts-Price-List-2016-17.pdf

Cross ref the part no from the first into the price list - works out at about £100 - £150 per sheet depending on the trailer - bear in mind that price list is from 16/17. Each trailer requires two.

Do you need two or is the damage confined to a single side?

You will get steel sheets from your local fabricator cheaper, but they'll not have the heat reflective surface that IW put on them. You could paint them though. I'm not 100% as I've not done this job before, but I don't think they need to be rolled to fit the roof frame profile - I think if you start at the upper vents and work towards the centre line then the rivets should pull it into place - just get it al squared before you start and don't overbore the holes when taking out the existing rivets.

I'm not sure what a plain sheet would cost locally - it would be roughly 10' x 4' x 2" - if it was a TA510 10ft - as the sheet is jointed along the centre ridge (I think). You'll need a tube of seam sealer too.

If you do decide to do it yourself, I'd recommend not using the self drives with the hex heads as they can catch on cattle - best using rivets or pancake head self drive.

Just on the hex head screws give the part through the steel.a tap.of a hammer and they break off clean enough not to catch on the cattle

emaherx · 25-10-2020 9:06pm

Base price wrote: »

My brother put a cap on the Fiat. He removed the sun roof, heater radiator and cut out all the rusty metal. He welded in new bits to carry the roof, re did the wiring for the lights, put in new switches overhead, fixed the wiper motor (I can't remember it working) cut out part of the floor that had a hole and replaced with aluminium chequered plate, plated and bolted the near side door/hinges and cut out and replaced other bits. I have to get clear carbon/perspex stuff for both doors and we still have to put the new second hand tyres on the front. It watertight now which is a luxury in itself

Looks great, a few tyres would finish off nicely. I know you fixed up rather than replace but at least now if you decided to upgrade you'd have a much easier to sell machine too.

funkey_monkey · 25-10-2020 9:20pm

Ahh its yourself - I was just going to ask you a question emaherx!

Those weigh scales you got - how to they react to a live load? Also, could they be cut and shortened down? We have a similar setup to yourself - albeit with a analogue clock. I was considering getting a platform folded and then it can all be stored on a shelf and not take up as much space as the weighbridge crush. Weighing the cattle is a bit of an demoralising task as you have to go to another farm, put it on the tractor and drive back, set it up, use it, wash, put it back on tractor, back to farm off load... If it was simpler to set up we would be more inclined to monitor their progress and adjust feed.

I see that stumpy scales are around £550 on Amazon. Have you investigated the scales to see if they can be easily shortened?

Do you know roughly what height each scale is - too much of a step could make it a pain to use.

emaherx · 25-10-2020 9:33pm

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Ahh its yourself - I was just going to ask you a question emaherx!

Those weigh scales you got - how to they react to a live load? Also, could they be cut and shortened down? We have a similar setup to yourself - albeit with a analogue clock. I was considering getting a platform folded and then it can all be stored on a shelf and not take up as much space as the weighbridge crush. Weighing the cattle is a bit of an demoralising task as you have to go to another farm, put it on the tractor and drive back, set it up, use it, wash, put it back on tractor, back to farm off load... If it was simpler to set up we would be more inclined to monitor their progress and adjust feed.

I see that stumpy scales are around £550 on Amazon. Have you investigated the scales to see if they can be easily shortened?

Do you know roughly what height each scale is - too much of a step could make it a pain to use.

No issue with a live load, although you have to wait for the animal to settle down a bit if they are excitable. The crush makes a good job of it as animal has no option but to put all 4 feet in and with the bar behind them and head gate if nessacery they settle quick enough, a bucket with a little meal helps the most excitable of them settle fairly quickly.

Not sure of exact height of beams, but you could shorten handy enough or just remove the weigh cells and connect directly to your new platform someone else here has done exactly that, I'm thinking maybe Limestone Cowboy but I'm not sure.

Edit: found you the thread
https://touch.boards.ie/thread/2058097664/2

funkey_monkey · 25-10-2020 9:38pm

dzer2 wrote: »

Just on the hex head screws give the part through the steel.a tap.of a hammer and they break off clean enough not to catch on the cattle

I was working on the assumption that he would be screwing from the inside out as the should of the bolt would hold it tight in position. I've done it before with self bores and cut with a grinder.
TBH - if the trailer is in any sort of shape go with the rivet as self drives have a rough look to them along side the proper stuff. You could knock them off square too as suggested above, but you need to drive from the inside outwards - hence why I don't like the hex heads as the protrude too much with sharp edges.

Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread II

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