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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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  • Options
    #2222
    o1s1n
    Registered Users Posts: 34,417 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    giphy.gif


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    #2223
    L1m1tless
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 2,164 Mod ✭✭✭✭L1m1tless


    BrownFinger wrote: »
    Ah now I was (and am) very grateful for that!
    If you want to post me up the chassis and cap kit I'd gladly do it for you.
    Consider it a trade for the SF?

    I appreciate the offer but I'm not looking for anything in return.

    Myself and Tony are 2 different people, it would be nice to post here without the attachment.

    If you were genuine in helping me.out I would gladly pay for the time and expertise.

    Thanks


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    #2224
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    that's the thing tough. There's a few of us who'd gladly do it for free but after that debacle attached to the cabs it's hard to consider doing someone we don't know a favour. There's more to fixing monitors than a simple re-cap and if we went down the road charging people for it, it would inevitably end up being a cluster of arguments and confusion.

    If tony is close to you and has the experience he claims he has with arcade machines I would definitely contact him. I recall he said he knew how to fix crts.

    But ultimately, my advice is to pick up a soldering iron and get at it yourself. It's part of the fun of maintaining these machines and a lot more rewarding and cost effective way of getting it working. You'll learn a ton of stuff in the process, which is super important if you want to keep your 3 machines working. A recap is one of the most simple process in PCB maintenance, it takes time and it can look overwhelming but it's an easy job really.


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    #2225
    L1m1tless
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 2,164 Mod ✭✭✭✭L1m1tless


    Thanks I appreciate the advice.

    I do own a soldering iron and there is lots I can do myself but when it comes to monitors I'd be nervous of shocking myself.

    Tony is my first call when I need help but he's been very busy lately. He is however going to do it for me this week so happy to be getting it sorted.

    Has already been diagnosed as needing a cap kit so I'm looking forward to getting it fixed and playing some games over Christmas.

    It's my Irish made red machine, i have all the bodywork restored so just the monitor now and it's back to its former glory.


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    #2226
    Doge
    Registered Users Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭Doge


    Does anyone have recommendations on which Microswitches to buy from Arcade World UK for concave happ style buttons?
    And does anyone know the difference between the standard happ buttons and ultimate ones?

    Looking for something clicky with short travel.

    https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/Microswitches/


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    #2227
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    Doge wrote: »
    Does anyone have recommendations on which Microswitches to buy from Arcade World UK for concave happ style buttons?
    And does anyone know the difference between the standard happ buttons and ultimate ones?

    Looking for something clicky with short travel.

    https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/Microswitches/


    how many do you need ? I've a good few with buttons I'm unlikely to use you're welcome to them


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    #2228
    Doge
    Registered Users Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭Doge


    BGOllie wrote: »
    how many do you need ? I've a good few with buttons I'm unlikely to use you're welcome to them

    16 buttons I think for the 2 player SF2 Arcade1UP cab, which would include the extra button per player for MAME.

    Thats very kind of you Ollie, are they decent ones by any chance?

    I wouldn't mind contributing some cash towards it


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    #2229
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    no worries. I'll take a photo tomorrow and pm ya then. You can choose if you want them or not then.


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    #2230
    Doge
    Registered Users Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭Doge


    BGOllie wrote: »
    no worries. I'll take a photo tomorrow and pm ya then. You can choose if you want them or not then.

    Thanks dude!


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    #2231
    80s Synth Pop
    Registered Users Posts: 711 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    Thank you to the person that advised me to get a minipac as an alternative to the out of stock jvspac / jvstrike for the Naomi. It worked perfect.

    I bought a couple of connector blocks and pins from radionics and now everything is a plug and play swap between the original hardware and the PC.

    468340.jpg


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    #2232
    eddhorse
    Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    nice work, any link to the radionics connector blocks, i find that website a maze.


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    #2233
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Another monitor saved, just need a new LOPT and a bunch of capacitors :)

    32486595848_cba59b24ef_z.jpg

    32486596468_4d7e11d6c3_z.jpg


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    #2234
    80s Synth Pop
    Registered Users Posts: 711 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    eddhorse wrote: »
    nice work, any link to the radionics connector blocks, i find that website a maze.


    Here is a copy/paste from the invoice for the parts:



    TE Connectivity AMP Universal Power Crimp Terminal Contact, Male, 0.1mm² to 0.35mm², 26AWG to 22AWG, Tin Plating
    Stock no.:712-1993
    Qty:50





    TE Connectivity AMP Universal Power Crimp Terminal Contact, Female, 0.1mm² to 0.35mm², 26AWG to 22AWG, Tin Plating
    Stock no.:712-1980
    Qty:100




    TE Connectivity AMP Universal Power, 3.96mm Pitch, 12 Way, 3 Row Female Connector Housing
    Stock no.:719-4379
    Qty:2


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    #2235
    80s Synth Pop
    Registered Users Posts: 711 ✭✭✭80s Synth Pop


    L1m1tless wrote: »
    Any recommendations on getting my arcade monitor repaired. I reckon it just needs a cap kit. Which I have bought but don't think I'd manage it myself.




    Send it to Grant in UK. If it's a sanwa chassis it's usually just cold solder joints as it has lead free solder. You could try reflow everything but if you don't have time Grant will fix it for you in no time.



    Or you can get a rodatron chassis and run your screen as a tri sync.


    Personally I would stick to the sanwa chassis since the repair will be cheaper than purchasing a new chassis.



    Plus, the 31Khz sanwa with software scanlines looks indistinguishable to a 15Khz chassis. Final Fight in groovymame on sanwa with software scanlines in 31Khz is 2560x448 super resolution and the picture looks identical to the rodotron in 15Khz in 2560x224 resolution. Then you can run Demul in native 640x480.


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    #2236
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    I think Grant has posted a few times that he doesn't like taking on chassis's that have had repair attempts on them. Just pack it up and sent it off for repair or exchange.


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    #2237
    L1m1tless
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 2,164 Mod ✭✭✭✭L1m1tless


    80s Synth Pop wrote: »
    Send it to Grant in UK. If it's a sanwa chassis it's usually just cold solder joints as it has lead free solder. You could try reflow everything but if you don't have time Grant will fix it for you in no time.



    Or you can get a rodatron chassis and run your screen as a tri sync.


    Personally I would stick to the sanwa chassis since the repair will be cheaper than purchasing a new chassis.



    Plus, the 31Khz sanwa with software scanlines looks indistinguishable to a 15Khz chassis. Final Fight in groovymame on sanwa with software scanlines in 31Khz is 2560x448 super resolution and the picture looks identical to the rodotron in 15Khz in 2560x224 resolution. Then you can run Demul in native 640x480.

    Thanks for the reply but I have someone local fixing it for me now. Funny you should mention final fight as I've an original final fight board that might be going in after its sorted. 😁


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    #2238
    safetyboy
    Registered Users Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭safetyboy


    I have an RGB modded PC engine from japan but when I put the scart in to my tv I only get sound no picture, its an old Akai 14" pal CRT. It worked fine on my old LCD. is there a different wiring in the scart lead?


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    #2239
    Inviere
    Registered Users Posts: 7,466 ✭✭✭Inviere


    safetyboy wrote: »
    I have an RGB modded PC engine from japan but when I put the scart in to my tv I only get sound no picture, its an old Akai 14" pal CRT. It worked fine on my old LCD. is there a different wiring in the scart lead?

    Sounds like the tv isn't NTSC-compatible

    Retro Computers/Consoles Repair/Restoration List



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    #2240
    safetyboy
    Registered Users Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭safetyboy


    Inviere wrote: »
    Sounds like the tv isn't NTSC-compatible

    I'm sure I had my Sega genesis working on it before, I will dig it out later and try.


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    #2241
    o1s1n
    Registered Users Posts: 34,417 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Inviere wrote: »
    Sounds like the tv isn't NTSC-compatible

    If it's RGB the it should work as NTSC/PAL signals are for composite and RF only.

    At worst there should at least black and white picture.

    My PCE does some weird stuff when the video isn't grounded properly (including no picture) I wonder is it maybe something similar?


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    #2242
    o1s1n
    Registered Users Posts: 34,417 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    sugarman wrote: »
    Does the TV definitely have an RGB scart input? Cheaper brands / Smaller CRTs sometimes only have AV inputs.

    The thing is, if it was composite only over a scart socket, he's still be getting a composite signal as scart carries composite too. (So if it was an NTSC/PAL TV composite issue he should be seeing a black and white composite picture at least)


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    #2243
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    sugarman wrote: »
    I was just thinking along the lines of it not having a composite output at all since the din connecter has to be changed for the RGB mod. Whoever done it might not have bothered to reconnect it as it wasn't needed anymore or depending on the connector used, awkward and not worth the hassle.

    The composite carries the Sync signal, so has to be connected. Can you open the console and check how the mod is wired ?

    There are some total sh1te modders out there unfortunately :(


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    #2244
    safetyboy
    Registered Users Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭safetyboy


    I'll power it up tonight and take some pics. Is there a way to wire the Scart so that it jumps to AV straight away as I cant find the remote


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    #2245
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    safetyboy wrote: »
    I'll power it up tonight and take some pics. Is there a way to wire the Scart so that it jumps to AV straight away as I cant find the remote

    9v-12v on SCART pin 8 will switch the TV to AV (4:3) mode.

    But you'll get away with 5v as this should switch to AV (16:9) but fall back to 4:3 if widescreen not available.


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    #2246
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    repaired this tetris bootleg board. I was booting randomly due to both detached caps and blown ones. When it booted the sound was missing.
    It seems on these board the electrolytic caps also play a role the Ic voltage regulation (it's usually audio and voltage stabilisation ) .
    Replaced all caps and the board booted fine & audio was back but some controls were missing. the pokey chips handle the i/o stuff so I swapped them around just to see what the effect could be. same result.
    After some poking around I guessed that the socket for one of the pokey chips must be making partial contact. I replaced the (old single swipe) socket with a new one and all's back working :)
    48390341_10156928526628276_5397198243664756736_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=e39be5e185c5d5bdb39dc97cba99ae38&oe=5CD81668


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    #2247
    CiDeRmAn
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,528 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    My Veccy is alive again, seems all it needed was a fuse in the plug!
    Still have the issue of text rendered upside down.
    I have to take the back off the machine and do some pot adjustment.
    Wish me luck!


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    #2248
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Got the Naomi cab working again :)
    Done the caps on the chassis, well as many as were included in the kit, geometry is much improved so just need to tweak the colour balance again and might change the remote board pots. But happy with the results so far..


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    #2249
    BGOllie
    Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭BGOllie


    nice one.
    Are you changing the flyback as well ? I keep hearing it's better to change it after a cap kit as the new caps can put a strain on it (although I yet have to discover why and how this can happen )

    I just put together a video of that Bom Jack pcb repair I did a while back



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    #2250
    The Last Bandit
    Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    No, just changed the caps.

    The flyback and power transistors were all changed before judging by the burnt flux on the pcb :)


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    #2251
    Doge
    Registered Users Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭Doge


    BGOllie wrote: »
    the pokey chips handle the i/o stuff so I swapped them around just to see what the effect could be. same result.
    After some poking around I guessed that the socket for one of the pokey chips must be making partial contact.

    heh


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