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Console table - give me your input!

  • 25-03-2020 1:13pm
    #1
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,333 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭


    Hi folks,

    I'm looking to make a small console table. It's to go behind a small sofa to put a lamp and some books on, but it'll still be relatively visible. It's going to be a painted finish, a dark navy blue I think to go with some other furniture in the room.

    Here's what I am thinking, and since I'm relatively new to this I thought I'd get your input.

    The dimensions for the table top will be 1140mm long and 220mm deep. The top of the table will be 720mm off the ground.

    I plan to use 18mm MDF. Not sure if I need MR MDF? I see conflicting info online, some people saying it's only really needed in kitchens, others saying they just use it as standard.

    The top will be obviously 1 piece of MDF. Then the apron underneath, I am thinking 80-100mm? Do people have any input on whether or not it will look better to have the apron flush to the edge of the table, or to set it back a bit to have a bit of a lip? I guess flush would give the appearance that the top is a solid, thicker block?

    The legs are where I'm not totally sure yet. I am thinking just glueing 2 18mm bits together to create 36mm square legs? Any other recommendations?

    Paint wise, I'm looking for a smooth finish. Thinking of priming it, lightly sanding it down, then painting, probably 2 coats? Should I use spray paint, or roll it on?


Comments

  • #2
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    Technically a console table has two legs or brackets and leans against a wall. There is a classic design for a sofa table but its much more demanding to make.
    You are really down to basics making it out of MDF. Moisture resistant MDF is better but will soon have dents and nicks as the edges are quite soft. The top should overhang by about 25 mm but the legs are too skinny at 35 mm - about 45 is better.
    If you can find a hardwood already planed like yellow poplar it will be far more durable and takes a paint finish very well
    - and a spray finish will always be better than a brushed finish. Good luck !


  • #3
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,333 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Thanks recipio, I was worried about the legs looking a bit thin. Might have to try figure out an alternative for those than glueing MDF together.

    Going with MDF cause I like the clean lines and want a smooth, painted finish. Also cause it's my first go, don't really want to be using anything too expensive.


  • #4
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    awec wrote: »
    Thanks recipio, I was worried about the legs looking a bit thin. Might have to try figure out an alternative for those than glueing MDF together.

    Going with MDF cause I like the clean lines and want a smooth, painted finish. Also cause it's my first go, don't really want to be using anything too expensive.

    Structurally you can use glued MDF and it will make the piece look cohesive - no need then to try and hide wood grain with layers of paint. ( Poplar is the exception - it has virtually no grain ) You could glue two 18mm and one 10mm piece together to get 46 mm.If you rout a radius on all the edges they will last longer. The apron should be about 70 mm - you will need a little depth to join it to the legs and something like 10 mm dowels will work.
    Its worth making a full size ' mock up' of the piece out of cardboard to get a feel for the piece - I still do this and I've been making furniture for 30 years !


  • #5
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,007 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Would sheeting the piece in mitred ply give it a tougher finish and also allow for smooth painting?


  • #6
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,333 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    recipio wrote: »
    Structurally you can use glued MDF and it will make the piece look cohesive - no need then to try and hide wood grain with layers of paint. ( Poplar is the exception - it has virtually no grain ) You could glue two 18mm and one 10mm piece together to get 46 mm.If you rout a radius on all the edges they will last longer. The apron should be about 70 mm - you will need a little depth to join it to the legs and something like 10 mm dowels will work.
    Its worth making a full size ' mock up' of the piece out of cardboard to get a feel for the piece - I still do this and I've been making furniture for 30 years !

    Great info!

    On routing the edges, I was thinking of this, but I don't have a router and I think the wife would divorce me if I buy any more tools.

    Another alternative approach I was thinking was to buy a 44x225 board and put some metal hairpin legs on it. My concern is this will look a bit weird on such a narrow table. I could try source some square metal legs. But on this approach, I'd need to find a nice piece of timber at that size, or find a few pieces and glue them, then make it perfectly flat, and I think this is likely to be a lot harder to do than it sounds.


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  • #7
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,007 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    If you are working with finished wood then a biscuit jointer should give you "perfectly flat" to a pretty good degree.
    Otherwise its out with the hand plane (assuming you dont have a planer/thicknesser lying around!)


  • #8
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    awec wrote: »
    Great info!

    On routing the edges, I was thinking of this, but I don't have a router and I think the wife would divorce me if I buy any more tools.

    Another alternative approach I was thinking was to buy a 44x225 board and put some metal hairpin legs on it. My concern is this will look a bit weird on such a narrow table. I could try source some square metal legs. But on this approach, I'd need to find a nice piece of timber at that size, or find a few pieces and glue them, then make it perfectly flat, and I think this is likely to be a lot harder to do than it sounds.

    Well, you can make virtually anything by screwing bits and pieces together. Remember you will have to look at it everyday. Navy blue is a very strong furniture colour and probably needs a modernist design to carry it off. You might just find what you want in IKEA ?


  • #9
    awec
    Administrators Posts: 53,333 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    recipio wrote: »
    Well, you can make virtually anything by screwing bits and pieces together. Remember you will have to look at it everyday. Navy blue is a very strong furniture colour and probably needs a modernist design to carry it off. You might just find what you want in IKEA ?

    Yea the room is modern, there's a navy blue sideboard in the room. I haven't decided completely on whether to try match, or just go for another colour that'll go with it.

    The size I'm after here is quite particular / not really that ordinary. Most IKEA things and other furniture shops are just too big or not what I'm after.

    Also, I thought it would be fun to give it a go myself. I've always wanted to try this stuff, but until recently been stuck in an apartment without the space to do it! I'm fairly handy, once I figure out exactly what I need to do what's in my head I can get it done.


  • #10
    chillyspoon
    Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    awec wrote: »
    I've always wanted to try this stuff, but until recently been stuck in an apartment without the space to do it! I'm fairly handy, once I figure out exactly what I need to do what's in my head I can get it done.

    Same happened to me - 12 years in tiny apartments with no possibility of using tools at all; utterly brilliant when we finally moved somewhere that I can make noise and a mess :D


  • #11
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    awec wrote: »
    Yea the room is modern, there's a navy blue sideboard in the room. I haven't decided completely on whether to try match, or just go for another colour that'll go with it.

    The size I'm after here is quite particular / not really that ordinary. Most IKEA things and other furniture shops are just too big or not what I'm after.

    Also, I thought it would be fun to give it a go myself. I've always wanted to try this stuff, but until recently been stuck in an apartment without the space to do it! I'm fairly handy, once I figure out exactly what I need to do what's in my head I can get it done.

    I mentioned IKEA as they sell steel screw on legs. The bent metal legs seem to run about 20 euro each as well. If you have no workshop or tools that might be the way to go. I would try to make the top about 30 mm deep - skinny table tops just don't look right.


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