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Raised beds

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  • 15-05-2019 8:08pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 9,364 ✭✭✭


    Looking to put a riased bed on a lawn, using sleepers. Planning on getting two layers of sleepers, lying on their fat side. Also want to use a weed prevention layer to slow down a native weed. Few questions.

    1. Can I lay the sleepers direct on the lawn? Would the dew from the lawn not rot the sleepers over time?

    2. How deep do I need sleepers to grow plants. Most sleepers I see are 10cm wide, so two of them would give me a soil depth of about 20cm (weed prefention layer being the bottom). Does this limit what I can plant there? Would a maple that's currently in a pot for example manage or would depth become an issue over time?

    3. Do I need to put something on the inside of the sleepers to keep the soil in? Or should the sleepers be tight enough to not require that?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    1. I wouldn't. Put large angular gravel under the sleepers for drainage and levelling.

    2. 20cm is fine, on top of the existing topsoil with turf removed. The object is to create deeper, better drained topsoil that's possibly slightly easier to access (if the beds aren't too wide). Don't put membrane down, just remove the turf. Weed seeds arrive by air, they won't grow up through 20cm of soil.

    3. No, but you will need to connect or brace the sleepers to stop the soil pushing the walls out (although this is not necessarily much of an issue with heavy sleepers and heavy soil). But put membrane on the inside of the sleepers to keep excess water off. They will eventually rot, but are easy and cheap to replace.

    FWIW I used 3 x untreated oak sleepers for a few raised sections of bed, connected with galvoband and tek screws. They're going nowhere and look a bit nicer than softwood, but are a little more expensive.


  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 11,358 Mod ✭✭✭✭lordgoat


    what have you against weeding one raised bed? Literally takes less than 2 mins a week. Plus plenty of info on how to run a no dig bed out there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,364 ✭✭✭Shedite27


    I'm finally after getting around to building my raised beds, hoping to end up with something that resembles this (apologies for the size)...
    timber-sleepers-raised-bed.jpg?la=en&hash=F69AB1393C6EBF988C1B92740D29D90EA0259AE5

    I've ordered the wood and the soil, can anyone advise what I should be looking for with regards to brackets. Should I be looking for brackets to connect the sleepers to sleepers, or the sleepers to the ground, or sleepers to the wall.

    I've a corner plot I'm using, 2 sides will be boundary walls (concrete), I'll be making an L shape with the sleepers to create a rectangular bed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,344 ✭✭✭ErinGoBrath


    Shedite27 wrote: »
    I'm finally after getting around to building my raised beds, hoping to end up with something that resembles this (apologies for the size)...
    timber-sleepers-raised-bed.jpg?la=en&hash=F69AB1393C6EBF988C1B92740D29D90EA0259AE5

    I've ordered the wood and the soil, can anyone advise what I should be looking for with regards to brackets. Should I be looking for brackets to connect the sleepers to sleepers, or the sleepers to the ground, or sleepers to the wall.

    I've a corner plot I'm using, 2 sides will be boundary walls (concrete), I'll be making an L shape with the sleepers to create a rectangular bed.

    What I did for min was secure the sleepers to eachother using 150mm landscape screws.

    If you have an l-shape this will prevent it from moving also.

    I dug a shallow trench (100m) filled with hardcore and used some sharp sand on top to help get the levels. I laid the first row down and then screwed the 2nd row down into the 1st.

    Hasn't budged

    My sleepers were 200x100


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,364 ✭✭✭Shedite27


    Built my riased beds over the past few days, smaller one to be filled with topsoil this afternoon. Any suggestions that would work well in these. It has one tree in front of it, so I should probably be looking for something that fits with that. Looking for things that max out about 2-2.5m high, bit of colour, not looking at flowers that need to be redone every year.

    Current thoughts are everywhere from a Japanese Maple (though I gather these can get to 8m), and going tropical (Trachycarpus Fortunei, Chamaerops humillis, Cordyline Pink Star/phormium) or even a Chamelia


    IMG-3792.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 591 ✭✭✭Garlinge


    I dont understand why you would put a membrane at bottom of bed? Whatever you plant there will want to root downward. I would have dug up the lawn sods and stored upside down as they rot down quickly and make nice compost.

    Weeds will be blown by wind and settle on top so always an issue if any bare soil. Any topsoil you introduce will probably have a seed within it.

    Japanese Anenome will do well anywhere and flower from August to December but will take over the bed... 4 ft or so high. You will see them in gardens at the moment. They range from pure white with light green centre to deep pink.

    Aspect is important ie how much sun but think your spot is getting good light? Tight in corner means maybe not a lot of rain due to fences. I would stick to shrubs not to take from beauty of nearby tree. Something to train up fence? rose?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,293 ✭✭✭phormium


    I agree with the above re the sods or at the very least remove the weed membrane or save it for the top where you will have weeds :)

    I would go Phormium over Cordyline as the Cordyline is cute when small but once they get stalky they are unattractive I think. Buy one of the smaller Phormiums or it will be too big for that bed in no time, I'd put it in the corner roughly. I'd definitely put in some bulbs for spring colour, couple of heathers maybe and I love Heuchera, can get fab colours in them and all year round colour and don't grow huge. Couple of smallish grasses so you have a bit of movement. The perennial geraniums are good too, come back every year and add a bit of flower colour.

    You could put weed fabric on top, cut holes, plant plants, gravel top maybe. I don't like bark, well in fact I do like the look of it but birds will dig in it and throw it out onto the grass all the time which annoys me!


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,364 ✭✭✭Shedite27


    Thanks both, not too late to remove the membrane, would the grass grow up through 10cm of topsoil?

    I'll have a look through the recommendations of the plants with the real boss, I like the idea of something that could grow alongside the fence.


  • Registered Users Posts: 591 ✭✭✭Garlinge


    No grass will not grow up thru thick layer of top soil. Yes was also going to recommend perennial geranium ( common one is Johnstons Blue) not to be confused with pelagonium geraniums. On their own they will take over the bed and also cover bare soil and mean less weeds. . They would be good start as smaller plants really 'ground cover' until larger get established. Bulbs a good idea also if sunny spot and will have done their thing by time geraniums get going. Now is time to put in bulbs but time enough for other ones in spring.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,293 ✭✭✭phormium


    The membrane left sitting there will kill off the grass after a while so depending on when you are planting you can leave it there temporarily. It has to come up though before you plant or you wont' really have enough depth of soil for plants.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 880 ✭✭✭celticbhoy27


    Cardboard box would be perfect there instead of the weed membrane. Will kill of the grass and decompose over time allowing whatever you plant root down


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭rje66


    Would it be too late to incorporate the tree into the bed?? Looks odd so close and probably a pain mowing grass.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,293 ✭✭✭phormium


    That will be a pain to mow! Square off the corner with more wood around the tree and decorative stone. Or edge the lawn in a curve from either side of raised beds around tree with one of the many products available and stone again.

    How big is that tree going to grow? If a good bit larger I wouldn't put it in the corner as it will just be overhanging the other gardens and a nuisance if they want it trimmed or whinging about leaves etc.

    It is possible move trees, I moved one about 3 times before I was happy with it but it's a risk. If I was moving it at all I'd move it away from there altogether so that your raised beds are more visible however you may have it there for screening purposes but now that you mention it it's definitely going to be a pain from a mowing point of view. If it's one thing I have discovered over the years never plant trees randomly stuck in the grass, always a nuisance for mowing unless you do a bed or enclosure of some sort around them. Hence the moving of my own tree 3 times, it started off in the lawn, bad job! Now it's a beautiful tree incorporated into the side border.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,364 ✭✭✭Shedite27


    phormium wrote: »
    That will be a pain to mow! Square off the corner with more wood around the tree and decorative stone. Or edge the lawn in a curve from either side of raised beds around tree with one of the many products available and stone again.
    I like the edging idea, will definitely look into that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,047 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Don't build anything up round the tree, it looks planted a bit deep as it is.


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