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My garden Room Build

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Comments

  • #32
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I don't think you'll need a window, at least as far as light is concerned.


  • #33
    listermint
    Registered Users Posts: 33,570 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Lumen wrote: »
    I don't think you'll need a window, at least as far as light is concerned.

    Ya if that whole section is glass door. No window needed.

    How is it orientated for day sunshine. Bearing in mind heat can be excessive


  • #34
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Its south west facing. So i will have to put some ventilation in. I worry the opposite corner wont get light though.


  • #35
    Class MayDresser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Its south west facing. So i will have to put some ventilation in. I worry the opposite corner wont get light though.

    What kind of roof do you know? Something you could incorporate a skylight in at a later stage if it needed it?


  • #36
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Yea, its a flat roof with epdm i can put a 300 by 300 roof light in without too much bother.


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  • #37
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Its south west facing. So i will have to put some ventilation in. I worry the opposite corner wont get light though.
    That's not how light works. :D

    What you probably won't get in that corner is direct sunshine, but you probably don't want that anyway, you want the light to bounce around the room and create a bright space.

    I'd post a pic of my dining room but it's a kip. I have one 2.3m slider for a room that's 4.3x4.7m, and it's plenty bright enough.

    25% glazing to floor ratio is one rule of thumb I've seen.

    Google "Daylight Factor" or "glazing to floor ratio".


  • #38
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Im well above that. 3.5 x 3.5 and exclude the edge i zipped off means its closer to 12sqm
    Door is 2x2


  • #39
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Im well above that. 3.5 x 3.5 and exclude the edge i zipped off means its closer to 12sqm
    Door is 2x2

    That gives you a ratio of 1:3 (4/12), which is well above 25%.

    edit: oh yeah, that's what you meant (facepalm).


  • #40
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Im well above that. 3.5 x 3.5 and exclude the edge i zipped off means its closer to 12sqm
    Door is 2x2

    I thought it was larger than that the pics are deceiving. What height is it? 2.4m if roof I'd guess.

    Did you manage to use the code Ali got for the EPDM? I see he has one for the facia place he used also but either might be useless in Ireland.


  • #41
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    I thought it was larger than that the pics are deceiving. What height is it? 2.4m if roof I'd guess.

    Did you manage to use the code Ali got for the EPDM? I see he has one for the facia place he used also but either might be useless in Ireland.

    Oh - sorry, you mean the code from Ali Dymock ! you had me totally confused :D:D

    I'll have a goo now, but the shipping for the epdm from the UK made it cheaper here.


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  • #42
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Oh - sorry, you mean the code from Ali Dymock ! you had me totally confused :D:D

    I'll have a goo now, but the shipping for the epdm from the UK made it cheaper here.

    I've binged watched that many youtube videos of his I feel like we're on first name terms now. :D


  • #43
    maxamillius
    Registered Users Posts: 1,134 ✭✭✭maxamillius


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Oh - sorry, you mean the code from Ali Dymock ! you had me totally confused :D:D

    I'll have a goo now, but the shipping for the epdm from the UK made it cheaper here.

    How much was the EPDM in Ireland?


  • #44
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    500 all in for 4mx4m plus bits


  • #45
    Supernintento Chalmers
    Registered Users Posts: 566 ✭✭✭Supernintento Chalmers


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    500 all in for 4mx4m plus bits

    Thanks, it's very interesting and helpful as I plan something similar down the line.
    If you don't mind, listing the costs of the various stages, along with suppliers (if that's allowed) would be great.

    Out of curiosity, are you planning any electrics?


  • #46
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    another day another wall !

    You may not be able to see it very well here, but the top plates on the wall frames will overlap so as to build a bit more strength

    The last wall going in next week will be a big mile stone as I dont forsee my back being able to take much more of it

    I actually screwed this wall together, a) because I felt it was less harsh on my back than bent over swinging, b) the bottom plate was fairly bowed and screws helped tighten it up ( weight will I know but ) c) neighbours were out all day in garden, the noise of the hammering might get to them

    49877343611_f638f50603_b.jpg

    And finally - as its predicted to get a bit watery around here I invested in a huge tarp. They were out of the size I wanted (10x10) so I got an upgrade to the 9x14 which leaves a lot over, but "Better to be looking at it than looking for it !"
    this is not the final roof covering !
    49877647192_a7f43097e9_b.jpg

    I will post a full bill of materials and prices as I get a bit closer to completion with the delivery number so folks can see the stages I purchased at.

    hth


  • #47
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    this is not the final roof covering !

    Are you trying to convince us or yourself :D


  • #48
    NIMAN
    Registered Users Posts: 32,943 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    Just happened upon this thread, and will be following it from here on......looking good so far OP.


  • #49
    Class MayDresser
    Closed Accounts Posts: 395 ✭✭Class MayDresser


    Great job so far, very neat and tidy.
    What's the blue handled tool in the foreground of the second last picture?
    The springs in your trampoline:eek::eek: If my two were in there there'd be something chopped or pinched, fair enough if no kids about.


  • #50
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    Class MayDresser wrote: »
    Great job so far, very neat and tidy.
    What's the blue handled tool in the foreground of the second last picture?
    The springs in your trampoline:eek::eek: If my two were in there there'd be something chopped or pinched, fair enough if no kids about.

    The handle off an old dust pan. They use it alright, but more keen on the PS4 !


  • #51
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    so another day another bit done - roof frame on today.

    Its a fair amount of work but I've put enough brackets and screws in this to make sure its going nowhere.

    I originally was going to go with 400mm centres. but I 600 should be fine given the span / load - its on the edge of ok and I am fairly sure there is plenty of tolerance built in.



    A tip - put all the joists up unfastened.
    Put a brace under 2 of them that allows you to put the barge board up single handed and then slide the others to meet it - screw the ends into the joists rather than try nail them as you will find trying to stop the whole thing sliding all over the shop a pain in the a33

    I was worried about the roof cantilevering over the door area thats why I ran the joist on the wall - I think in hindsight I should have built a rafter ladder and left the noggins on the wall instead of them being shorter and suspended out over the edge like this.

    Also, I dont know why but I had decided using the circular saw was better than the chop saw because of the size and weight of the boards - today I took time to set up a work area correctly for the chop and the difference was huge - the cuts way straighter and the chop finds the cuts easier than the circular did so so did I.

    The whole thing is way more solid now, but needs the sheeting to make it super stable ( whenever TJ decides to deliver - its only been 2 weeks now ! )

    ive had a couple of sparks out to price it up - I am totally confused but the dearest spec'd the lowest cable and didnt think a fuse board was necessary in it - the cheapest didnt seem too confident, so the middle of the road man looks a shoe in :D:D

    The wind nearly took the tarp away - but it also gave me the op to get a good pic of it.

    Prices are getting saucy ! but I think I am still in good stead to make it for under 5k - but its gonna be tough ( mainly coz of the sparky ! )


    49902883167_e4f6c91513_b.jpg

    49902065953_fd2e7acec2_b.jpg

    49902581761_109d00f7c2_b.jpg


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  • #52
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    Prices are getting saucy ! but I think I am still in good stead to make it for under 5k - but its gonna be tough ( mainly coz of the sparky ! )

    You could wire that yourself not a bother there isn't much to it. The most awkward part will be running a cable back to the board in the house and if you're doing that you may aswell run some comms cable back to the router also. The cheapest has probably planned to wire back to the nearest socket.


  • #53
    NIMAN
    Registered Users Posts: 32,943 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    op

    Have you a design you are basing this on?

    Then again, perhaps we shouldn't see it, spoil the surprise of the finished product.


  • #54
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    NIMAN wrote: »
    op

    Then again, perhaps we shouldn't see it, spoil the surprise of the finished product.

    exactly ! I cant wait to see what its going to end up like ! :D

    Really no - I woke up this morning and designed the roof in 10 mins and built it.
    The overhangs changed size about twice during the day based on wood use and how it looked.


  • #55
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    You could wire that yourself not a bother there isn't much to it. The most awkward part will be running a cable back to the board in the house and if you're doing that you may aswell run some comms cable back to the router also. The cheapest has probably planned to wire back to the nearest socket.

    ( dont let anyone from the Electrical forum read this :eek: :eek: )

    bar the wiring into the consumer board yes I could - and based on me being told to use 3 different spec's of wire, there is a good chance I'd get it right, or as right as some of them

    I think it needs a bit more than a spur off the kitchen though.


  • #56
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    ( dont let anyone from the Electrical forum read this :eek: :eek: )

    bar the wiring into the consumer board yes I could - and based on me being told to use 3 different spec's of wire, there is a good chance I'd get it right, or as right as some of them

    I think it needs a bit more than a spur off the kitchen though.

    Yeah I'm waiting to be eaten alive for that :D but I can't imagine you're going to have much running out there. A few sockets some down lights inside and maybe in the overhang. If you're going to the trouble of wiring back to the main board a small DB in there would make sense albeit overkill.


  • #57
    RobAMerc
    Registered Users Posts: 5,862 ✭✭✭RobAMerc


    no, probably a laptop, telly maybe a PS4 and some down lighters - but a heater is what I am worried about.


  • #58
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    RobAMerc wrote: »
    no, probably a laptop, telly maybe a PS4 and some down lighters - but a heater is what I am worried about.

    You'll probably be somewhere between 2A and 10A depending on the heater you choose I assume it's a panel heater you're looking at. The other things you mention will have a small draw particularly if using LED bulbs.

    Price up the cable and see which size suits your needs if the price is negligible the bigger will future proof you. You've probably had quotes for 2.5/6/16sqmm incoming cable supply.


  • #59
    looksee
    Registered Users Posts: 28,012 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    When I had a shed wired for power, computers, lights etc the electrician insisted the best job was to put in a box just where the wires left the house for the shed - and cut out a channel in the concrete path, then buried the cable.


  • #60
    Lumen
    Registered Users Posts: 31,008 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Cable and switching is cheap, so it makes no sense to skimp.

    Mine was done with a new 20amp mains supply from existing house consumer unit to new distribution board in shed complete with main switch, 20amp RCBO & 16amp MCB.

    Whatever the hell all that means.

    The armoured cable was buried in a 600mm trench.

    Proper ducting is also cheap.

    It's the labour which is expensive.


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  • #61
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users Posts: 6,367 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Lumen wrote: »
    Cable and switching is cheap, so it makes no sense to skimp.

    Mine was done with a new 20amp mains supply from existing house consumer unit to new distribution board in shed complete with main switch, 20amp RCBO & 16amp MCB.

    Whatever the hell all that means.

    The armoured cable was buried in a 600mm trench.

    Proper ducting is also cheap.

    It's the labour which is expensive.

    20A RCBO to cover the sockets
    16A would be used for lighting & small power. I'd keep them separate myself but they may have only installed a small enclosure and had limited space.

    What size SWA did they use and how long was the run? I'd have thought 6sq would suffice here possibly 10sq if the run was particularly long but no harm to have the 10sq if cost was negligible.

    OP you could always pull in the supply cable yourself as pointed out if you intend on burying the cable that'll be a fair bit of work.


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