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Bathroom Renovation

  • 13-07-2020 10:22pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭


    All, I am looking to do a bathroom refurb, that wont cost me an arm and a leg but at the same time give me something that is workable.

    Just today I have followed this thread below, a lot of good stuff on it:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058088839&page=4

    Last weekend after much thinking I have made a start, however I would stress that I have not finalised any of the design, but I am looking for any advice from all the posters online. So far electric shower, shower tray, tiles & a radiator removed.

    Attached are some photos so far, & where possible I will do most of the work myself.

    With regards to design I am looking for a new shower tray, doors and a new radiator. With regards to existing suite the bath, sink & toilet I am looking to hold onto these where they are currently located, but in my head I would like to install a new free standing bath.

    With regards to look, I am looking to hold onto the wood panelling (paint grey or dark blue) and tile full height walls over bath & shower area. Tile colour would probably match the panelling colour or be a subway white with grey grout. Walls, I would like to hold onto some white colour walls. Floor tiles will depend on the panelling/wall colours. Ceiling is a sloped wood panelling ceiling similar to the current wall panelling with 4no. spotlights.

    Any thoughts on the design, solutions etc. welcome:)


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Some additional photos to give a sense of the space and the type of suite existing in the bathroom. I had to drain down the whole system to remove this one radiator, but thankfully all returned & heating system & down stairs shower in operation for duration of this project. Note that all the waste pipes are above floor level which is annoying to say the least.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    Does the bath get used at all?
    Its very tight for both a bath and a shower(Can you give measurements)



    If you can why not get rid of the bath and put in a double sink vanity and a large walk in shower.
    Another piece of advice would be find a picture of a bathroom you like and work towards it, dont just make it up on the spot. So many little details add up to create a great bathroom. For example I trimmed my freestanding shower screen in black U channel (Not the normal chrome one the shop wanted to supply) on all 4 sides instead of just 2 and it made such a big difference to the overall look of the place.
    Find an image and work towards it otherwise it'll be a bog standard bathroom renovation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    seannash wrote: »
    Does the bath get used at all?
    Its very tight for both a bath and a shower(Can you give measurements)



    If you can why not get rid of the bath and put in a double sink vanity and a large walk in shower.
    Another piece of advice would be find a picture of a bathroom you like and work towards it, dont just make it up on the spot. So many little details add up to create a great bathroom. For example I trimmed my freestanding shower screen in black U channel (Not the normal chrome one the shop wanted to supply) on all 4 sides instead of just 2 and it made such a big difference to the overall look of the place.
    Find an image and work towards it otherwise it'll be a bog standard bathroom renovation.

    I was thinking to do that, but I would prefer to leave it in for now as I may sell the house in the next few years. I would love to change it to a free standing bath, any thoughts on that


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Some additional progress to date, rad gone & shower gone


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Shopping list & taking up existing ply board


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  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Deciding how the shower waste exits the shower trap has been a difficult one. Initially I was looking to make one 90degree bend out from the trap, then as per the photo, two 45 degree bends but cant get it to work. Then I taught about straight out from the waste trap without using the 45 degree bend that came with the trap.

    Now I have decided to rotate the trap 180 degrees so the outlet faces away from the corner of both walls, short length of waste & the run will run approx. under the middle of the shower tray.

    Had I decided to purchase a shower tray with the outlet on the left hand side it would of made life alot easier:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Photos attached again


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    seannash wrote: »
    Does the bath get used at all?
    Its very tight for both a bath and a shower(Can you give measurements)



    If you can why not get rid of the bath and put in a double sink vanity and a large walk in shower.
    Another piece of advice would be find a picture of a bathroom you like and work towards it, dont just make it up on the spot. So many little details add up to create a great bathroom. For example I trimmed my freestanding shower screen in black U channel (Not the normal chrome one the shop wanted to supply) on all 4 sides instead of just 2 and it made such a big difference to the overall look of the place.
    Find an image and work towards it otherwise it'll be a bog standard bathroom renovation.

    Seannash would you mind sharing a photo of your shower with the u-channel, definately would be interested to do something like this too. Did u get someone to make it for you


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    James 007 wrote: »
    Seannash would you mind sharing a photo of your shower with the u-channel, definately would be interested to do something like this too. Did u get someone to make it for you

    Apologoes James i just saw this now.
    https://imgur.com/gallery/dzarau1

    Didnt get anyome to make it for me, i just talked to the glazier who was installing rhe glass and told him i wanted blqck u channel on all 4 sides, mitred on the corners and he said no bother. Cost was 400euro but the glass is 12mm thick as its freestanding (no bar going across the top of it)


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,179 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    James 007 wrote: »
    Photos attached again

    I’d that where the tray is staying. Or are you going to pull off the panelling to get the tray to fit?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    seannash wrote: »
    Apologoes James i just saw this now.
    https://imgur.com/gallery/dzarau1

    Didnt get anyome to make it for me, i just talked to the glazier who was installing rhe glass and told him i wanted blqck u channel on all 4 sides, mitred on the corners and he said no bother. Cost was 400euro but the glass is 12mm thick as its freestanding (no bar going across the top of it)
    I like this seannash, can I ask what kind of lighting do you have in the room, I am looking for some black type industrial hanging lights, anyway this is just a thought at the moment but if you could let us know your type of lighting, thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    ted1 wrote: »
    I’d that where the tray is staying. Or are you going to pull off the panelling to get the tray to fit?
    It was originally planned to just put in a shower, a new towel radiator & a lick of paint, leaving the bath, sink & toilet where they are were located. I had planned to hold onto the wood panelling, outside the shower area in that photo if the originally plan was to go forward.

    I now have changed the whole design to try & incorporate a male & female washbasins, photos to follow:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007




  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007




  • Registered Users Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    James 007 wrote: »
    I like this seannash, can I ask what kind of lighting do you have in the room, I am looking for some black type industrial hanging lights, anyway this is just a thought at the moment but if you could let us know your type of lighting, thanks

    Sure, the overhead light is from Dowsing and Reynolds and the lights beside the vanity are from West Elm. All online stores. Others to consider are Made.com and Cult furniture. You should be able to find some industrial stuff on those sites


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    seannash wrote: »
    Sure, the overhead light is from Dowsing and Reynolds and the lights beside the vanity are from West Elm. All online stores. Others to consider are Made.com and Cult furniture. You should be able to find some industrial stuff on those sites

    Thanks seannash some lovely lights in those websites. I also came across this website too which seems to have exactly what i was looking for.

    https://cusacklighting.ie/collections/bathroom-wall-lights/products/swan-neck-outdoor-bathroom-wall-light-pewter-tube-glass?variant=31679099437169

    Original manufacturers here:
    https://www.industville.co.uk/collections/vintage-style-bathroom-lighting/ip-rating_ip44?page=2&sort_by=price-ascending


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,672 ✭✭✭seannash


    James 007 wrote: »


    Nice find, thats a great looking light fixture


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    IMG_20200810_152139.jpg

    IMG_20200810_152406.jpg

    IMG_20200810_154905.jpg

    Change of design, bathtub wont fit to my configuration. Its really thrown a spanner in the works. It works ok when sitting on the toilet, you have 2 inches either side, but from a look perspective its too tight:o


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    IMG_2722.jpg

    IMG_2730.jpg

    IMG_2727.jpg

    IMG_2720 (1).jpg
    seannash wrote: »
    Nice find, thats a great looking light fixture

    I needed to gather my thoughts today & went viewing some fittings, some nice external lights, all classed as IP44 so should be suitable for bathroom too, at reasonable price, would be interested if anyone has used these for such a setting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Plumbing done for now, onto fitting the shower tray & waste outlet, photos to follow tomorrow


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  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Attached showing the plumbing for the wash basins, glad thats done & all in working order for both hot & cold feeds. Shower tray put down yesterday on a sand/cement bed & tested, waste working fine to outlet.


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    Anyone have thoughts about running the qualplex above floor level behind the wood panelling as I have done in the 3rd photo. The floor tiles will run in as far as possible should I ever wish to remove the panelling & tile at a late stage. I ran the lines above floor so that I could have access in the event of a leak.

    When I uploaded the photo this morning, the first thing that came into my head was why I didnt run it through the floor joists & keep all within the floor joist depth, with no access. I know they are probably never expected to leak but welcome anyones views


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,514 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    James 007 wrote: »
    Anyone have thoughts about running the qualplex above floor level behind the wood panelling as I have done in the 3rd photo.

    I don't see an issue.

    Just reading your thread with interest as you linked to my bathroom thread in your 1st post :)
    The floor tiles will run in as far as possible should I ever wish to remove the panelling & tile at a late stage.

    Personally I would try to do everything once. So if yo decide to go for wood paneling then do it and move on. Don't do it with a plan to change it out later.
    I ran the lines above floor so that I could have access in the event of a leak.

    Speaking as an amateur plumber I would:
    1) Use descent compression fittings and install them using high quality proper fitting spanners.
    2) I pressure test everything before "closing up".
    3) Always install as few connections as possible.
    4) Then I would not worry about a leak. I have installed many connections over the last few decades, so far none have leaked.


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=114316075#post114316075

    See attached electrical proposals & lighting. Also Meercat comments, very much welcome, hopefully I will try & have both threads merged


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    2011 wrote: »
    I don't see an issue.

    Just reading your thread with interest as you linked to my bathroom thread in your 1st post :)



    Personally I would try to do everything once. So if yo decide to go for wood paneling then do it and move on. Don't do it with a plan to change it out later.



    Speaking as an amateur plumber I would:
    1) Use descent compression fittings and install them using high quality proper fitting spanners.
    2) I pressure test everything before "closing up".
    3) Always install as few connections as possible.
    4) Then I would not worry about a leak. I have installed many connections over the last few decades, so far none have leaked.

    Thanks 2011, yes I really liked your thread, wasn't confident enough to install a wetroom over my kitchen though. I do plan to place magnesium oxide boards on the shower walls & tank all with a flexible tanking system. Where do you pressure test connect from & what equipment do you use, link below with what I have found
    https://www.screwfix.ie/c/tools/plumbing-testing-equipment/cat831346

    I agree with you with regards to either wood panelling or tiling. I definately made up my mind to go with the shower wall for complete length & height with tiling & then the rest of the walls with either 1/2 way up tiling or wood panelling. Attached photo shows how un level the window wall is. My preference is heading towards wood panelling at the moment as a different colour paint a few years down the line will give it a different feel.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,514 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    James 007 wrote: »
    wasn't confident enough to install a wetroom over my kitchen though.

    It really isn't any harder than what you are doing. Regardless of whether you decide to go for a wet room or not I suggest:

    1) Use cement board in the wet shower area. Three 8 x 4 sheets will most likely do you (great prices on this in Chadwicks). Just seal the joins with Marmox sealant, apply the Marmox over the same joints and penetrations.
    2) For around €150 you could buy a matching cement board shower tray. Tile adhesive is best used to hold this in place (no penetrations). This comes complete with the trap. Seal this to the cement board in the same way.
    3) Tank everything, then tile. Take the view the purpose of the tiling is not to make the shower area waterproof. It should be fully waterproof before a single tile is applied.

    In my opinion the above is the lowest risk approach. I am always concerned about the joint between the conventional shower tray and plater board / cement board / concrete wall.
    I do plan to place magnesium oxide boards on the shower walls & tank all with a flexible tanking system.

    I am not familiar with this product. I assume that it has similar properties to cement board? Maybe it is even better, I don't know.
    Where do you pressure test connect from & what equipment do you use

    I should have explained this better. I didn't do anything fancy. I just made any installed pipes "live" and checked all joints before closing up. I also ran the shower for a while before slabbing. Following careful observation of all connections on pipework at normal operating pressure for several days I felt confident.

    A few tips:

    1) Use flexible grout and tile adhesive.
    2) Support cement board, shower tray, magnesium oxide boards extremely well. You want zero movement or you will have trouble down the road. This means plywood on the floor and very solid battens on the walls.
    3) Try to avoid the use of pipe grips and such like for pumping connections. These tend to make the circular parts of the connector oval. Instead use proper spanners and throughly tighten. Also apply Bosswhite (or similar).
    4) Be very generous with tanking kit.
    5) Rent proper power tools when you need them. I used rented a massive Hilti drill and 4" masonry hole saw and a huge industrial vacuum cleaner.

    Good luck!


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,514 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Just to add: I would not install a bath. I know that many will disagree (each to their own) but this is why I wouldn’t:
    1) I did this twice before and they were never used 😄. It was an enormous amount of extra work and expense for nothing. The seal between the bath and the wall can be difficult.

    2) in most cases this allows for a far larger shower. The bigger the shower the better. If the shower is large enough the requirement for doors can be avoided. In my experience high quality doors are very expensive and all doors break eventually. The only difference is the expensive ones last longer. No doors also means easier cleaning

    3) No bath means far more space in the bathroom and a cleaner look.

    5) Massive schedule reduction.

    6) You can’t beat a good shower :)

    By the way this is the toiled I used:
    https://m.ebay.ie/itm/ROCA-GAP-Close-Coupled-WC-Toilet-Rimless-WC-Cistern-Soft-Closing-Seat-Option/264162098835?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/5282-53468-19255-0/1?ff3=2&toolid=10039&campid=5338471181&customid=101_205_269&item=264162098835&vectorid=229543&lgeo=1&srcrot=5282-53468-19255-0&rvr_id=2558109783860&rvr_ts=f683fec11730a6e55924c09dffc5a29b&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true&pageci=6d44dd78-6386-419e-ac17-a34d00baeaac

    Easy to install and easy cleaning afterwards as it seals totally to the wall and is rimless.


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    2011 wrote: »
    It really isn't any harder than what you are doing. Regardless of whether you decide to go for a wet room or not I suggest:

    1) Use cement board in the wet shower area. Three 8 x 4 sheets will most likely do you (great prices on this in Chadwicks). Just seal the joins with Marmox sealant, apply the Marmox over the same joints and penetrations.
    2) For around €150 you could buy a matching cement board shower tray. Tile adhesive is best used to hold this in place (no penetrations). This comes complete with the trap. Seal this to the cement board in the same way.
    3) Tank everything, then tile. Take the view the purpose of the tiling is not to make the shower area waterproof. It should be fully waterproof before a single tile is applied.

    In my opinion the above is the lowest risk approach. I am always concerned about the joint between the conventional shower tray and plater board / cement board / concrete wall.



    I am not familiar with this product. I assume that it has similar properties to cement board? Maybe it is even better, I don't know.



    I should have explained this better. I didn't do anything fancy. I just made any installed pipes "live" and checked all joints before closing up. I also ran the shower for a while before slabbing. Following careful observation of all connections on pipework at normal operating pressure for several days I felt confident.

    A few tips:

    1) Use flexible grout and tile adhesive.
    2) Support cement board, shower tray, magnesium oxide boards extremely well. You want zero movement or you will have trouble down the road. This means plywood on the floor and very solid battens on the walls.
    3) Try to avoid the use of pipe grips and such like for pumping connections. These tend to make the circular parts of the connector oval. Instead use proper spanners and throughly tighten. Also apply Bosswhite (or similar).
    4) Be very generous with tanking kit.
    5) Rent proper power tools when you need them. I used rented a massive Hilti drill and 4" masonry hole saw and a huge industrial vacuum cleaner.

    Good luck!

    Thanks 2011,

    I have run the shower over the last few days & its currently running again now, it will be open for another while yet so have more time to test it. The magnesium board is 1/2 inch so I will ensure my wall fixings are spaced closer together. The tanking kit i have plenty so I do intend to use it all up. I have run the heating system & have checked all supply lines are feeding both cold & hot water, also checked the radiator too for infeed hot supply.

    I have been thinking of getting extra light into the bathroom by having a velux installed now too. I dont want to come back to it later & probably would prefer it to be installed as everything is stripped back. Half thinking about doing it myself but I think it would take me 5 times the amount of time as a person experienced at doing it. I'll do all the donkey work identifying the location & stripping back the ceiling panelling. Can anyone recommend someone to complete this work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 962 ✭✭✭James 007


    2011 wrote: »
    Just to add: I would not install a bath. I know that many will disagree (each to their own) but this is why I wouldn’t:
    1) I did this twice before and they were never used 😄. It was an enormous amount of extra work and expense for nothing. The seal between the bath and the wall can be difficult.

    2) in most cases this allows for a far larger shower. The bigger the shower the better. If the shower is large enough the requirement for doors can be avoided. In my experience high quality doors are very expensive and all doors break eventually. The only difference is the expensive ones last longer. No doors also means easier cleaning

    3) No bath means far more space in the bathroom and a cleaner look.

    5) Massive schedule reduction.

    6) You can’t beat a good shower :)

    By the way this is the toiled I used:
    https://m.ebay.ie/itm/ROCA-GAP-Close-Coupled-WC-Toilet-Rimless-WC-Cistern-Soft-Closing-Seat-Option/264162098835?ul_ref=https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/5282-53468-19255-0/1?ff3=2&toolid=10039&campid=5338471181&customid=101_205_269&item=264162098835&vectorid=229543&lgeo=1&srcrot=5282-53468-19255-0&rvr_id=2558109783860&rvr_ts=f683fec11730a6e55924c09dffc5a29b&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true&pageci=6d44dd78-6386-419e-ac17-a34d00baeaac

    Easy to install and easy cleaning afterwards as it seals totally to the wall and is rimless.

    Yes I thought of this too for a long time, & my bathroom would of suited a long shower up to 2.3m max, so could of accommodated one with built out shelving for shower shampoos etc, many people have said it to me & some said the opposite. For me there are times that I have used the bath just to relax for a certain period of time. I have decided to go with one, restrict the length & width so as to reduce floor taken up by it.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,514 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    James 007 wrote: »
    I have run the shower over the last few days & its currently running again now, it will be open for another while yet so have more time to test it.

    Sounds good.
    The magnesium board is 1/2 inch so I will ensure my wall fixings are spaced closer together.

    Just to be clear: every fixing through the board is a hole you will have to seal throughly. What you need to do is ensure that there are plenty of wooden battens supporting the board really well.

    What are you doing on the floor? It is best not to tile directly onto wood even if it is tanked. I would suggest cement board stuck to plywood with tile adhesive, then tank.
    The tanking kit i have plenty so I do intend to use it all up. I have run the heating system & have checked all supply lines are feeding both cold & hot water, also checked the radiator too for infeed hot supply.

    Sounds good. I would use tape, then tank.
    I have been thinking of getting extra light into the bathroom by having a velux installed now too.

    I would love to have a Vellux in mine. However I would only install a motorized one, press the button and it opens. This would be a massive advantage to a room with a shower. Honestly you won’t regret it and you plant to alter the electrics anyway.


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