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What are you working on currently?

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  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Sheet of sandpaper and a flat surface. Belt sander, professional services, not required :D
    Glass, MDF, tiles, anything flat.
    Take some masking tape, stick it down on the flat surface, rub it on. thin line of superglue down the tape, then put the sandpaper on top of the glue, smush it a little to spread it and then hold it in place for a few seconds to set. Now it's not going to shift sideways on you while you sharpen. Then lift the tape off the surface at the end to remove the paper cleanly.

    Sellers covers this really clearly and there are fifty other videos on this on youtube.



  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    (and if you can get some stropping compound and some leather, stropping for a few strokes every so often keeps the edge nice and sharp for longer without doing a full resharpen)


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Sparks wrote: »
    (and if you can get some stropping compound and some leather, stropping for a few strokes every so often keeps the edge nice and sharp for longer without doing a full resharpen)

    Any links to a good compound?


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 sheriff_os


    Built a quick & dirty miter sled for my new table saw - going to use it to make some Christmas picture frame gifts




  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    delaney001 wrote: »
    Any links to a good compound?

    This is the stuff I use but there are loads of different ones from loads of different places.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Sparks wrote: »
    This is the stuff I use but there are loads of different ones from loads of different places.

    Lovely stuff, cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Making a present for a wedding. Bottle of whiskey in a dovetailed box.
    First pic is the 4 corners of dovetails cut and ready to be glued.
    Second is the box glued and clamped.
    Third is jointing and flattening the material for the lid.
    Hopefully it'll come together nicely.
    Any suggestions on a finish?


  • Registered Users Posts: 379 ✭✭mobfromcork


    Nice idea for a present. Dovetails look good


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Holy carp but walnut is so much nicer to do joints in than that crappy whitewood crap.

    IMG_9901a.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,711 ✭✭✭Gryzor


    Gryzor wrote: »
    Making this coffee table from white oak. Source material is rough sawn 1x6 boards, and it is pretty rough in places! Handtools only for me at the moment, so it's slow going dimensioning everything, but it's coming out ok so far.

    Finally done, hard to get time these days...happy with the result. Lots of learnings along the way!

    401733.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Corners went together thank feck. Happy enough with em. Of course there's always one crap corner to hide!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,857 ✭✭✭✭Dave!


    The table I was working on was a bit too wobbly and I wasn't arsed trying to fix it, so I used the wood to make one of these sofa arm rest table things instead! The table top is on hinges so I can leave it behind the couch when not in use, and it has magnets to hold it in place when it's open. The magnets are not effective at all! So will get a little hook and hoop thing maybe to hold it in place


  • Registered Users Posts: 137 ✭✭Sean Farrell


    delaney001 wrote: »
    Corners went together thank feck. Happy enough with em. Of course there's always one crap corner to hide!

    Nice job....looking forward to seeing the finished product....but methinks you've already polished off the bottle of whiskey already judging by evidence from the photo.


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Nice job....looking forward to seeing the finished product....but methinks you've already polished off the bottle of whiskey already judging by evidence from the photo.

    No that was empty to begin with :(
    Just using it for scale and size.
    Have it assembled and just need to finish it. Anyone any experience of using danish oil, just wipe on with a rag? Do you sand between coats?


  • Registered Users Posts: 456 ✭✭peter bermingham


    delaney001 wrote: »
    No that was empty to begin with :(
    Just using it for scale and size.
    Have it assembled and just need to finish it. Anyone any experience of using danish oil, just wipe on with a rag? Do you sand between coats?
    Ya wipe on thin coats you could give it a rub with 320 when dry


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    delaney001 wrote: »
    Anyone any experience of using danish oil, just wipe on with a rag? Do you sand between coats?
    I painted on for the first coat last time I used it on an outdoor patio table. Standard oil finish routine though; paint or rag on, leave for 20 minutes, wipe off excess, leave to cure, rub down with fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool, apply next coat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    I'll give it a go over next 3 nights and post a pic of it finished. Need to get a move on though, the wedding is Friday!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Update.
    Good news - Danish oil is very easy and nice to use. Just keep putting on until it won't take anymore.

    Bad news - the moisture content must be very high in the workshop cause as soon as I brought it to apartment, the corners started cracking and separating. Serious disappointment.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,857 ✭✭✭✭Dave!


    First attempt at carving a spoon - turned out a bit lumpy cos I've nothing to scoop out the bowl, but happy enough with it!

    404211.jpg

    404212.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Been testing some finishes for the crib. Top to bottom, shellac on walnut, same shellac on ash (ugh, not doing that), osmo clear thin wax on ash, milk paint on poplar (this will be the inside of the drawer, just for laughs). Goes on all vibrant and lovely:

    IMG_0144a.jpg

    Then dries to a fairly dull look:

    IMG_0148a.jpg

    But some osmo over the second coat of milk paint does bring it back up somewhat. And hell, it'll be the inside of a drawer.

    BTW, anyone have any tips for applying different finishes to different parts of the same assembly? Asking on behalf of a complete amateur.

    Oh, and got the back panel of the base of the crib almost finished.

    IMG_0165a.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Front frame assembled (and the panel is done too, but I managed to stick a chisel in my finger while cleaning a tenon so I haven't gotten the grooves ploughed yet).

    IMG_0183a.jpg

    Minor problem - that's actually wedged.
    I'm not sure I can fit this thing on the bench to assemble it...


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,745 ✭✭✭laugh


    Sparks wrote: »
    Front frame assembled (and the panel is done too, but I managed to stick a chisel in my finger while cleaning a tenon so I haven't gotten the grooves ploughed yet).


    Minor problem - that's actually wedged.
    I'm not sure I can fit this thing on the bench to assemble it...

    Nice, nice bench too!


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    Building a vacuum chucking system for my lathe. Have some of the fittings together, just have to get the rotary adaptor for my lathe and a vacuum generator.


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Installed the front panel.

    IMG_0193a.jpg

    Also cut more tenons and tested drawboring in this walnut.

    IMG_0220a.jpg

    I rather like that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Have a set of dining chairs that the backs of are gone very wobbly. See attached (very poor) pic of the leg set up. Rear leg and back are one continuous piece.
    Would inserting a stretcher from front leg to back be the best job?


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    IMG_0299a.jpg

    IMG_0301a.jpg

    So, just a back support, top crossrail, two drawer runners and twenty-four slats to cut joints for and fit, then one drawer to make, and some finishing, and by the time this sodding thing is done, the kid is going to be five years old...



    (And no, I can't assemble it on the bench in the shed, it's too big :( )


  • Registered Users Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Done, not too much hardship in the end.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,857 ✭✭✭✭Dave!


    Was working on a table from hazel wood, carving the tenons by hand with a knife - took bloody ages, and very hard on the hands - but I made them a couple of them too loose :mad: So I decided to ditch it cos I couldn't be arsed trying to fix them.

    Turned one of the legs into a spoon though, which turned out a hell of a lot better than my previous attempt!

    405104.JPG

    405105.JPG


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,857 ✭✭✭✭Dave!


    My sister-in-law has asked can I build a bookshelf for the kids, which is to be mounted on a wall - exciting!

    The wall in the kids' bedroom is hollow drywall, and I'm a bit concerned about pulling it down - are the wall plugs for this purpose pretty sturdy/capable of holding decent weight, or should I be looking at screwing into the studs?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    Try and make the book shelf that it incorporates a solid cross batton
    Locate the studs in the wall and screw the cross batton to the wall
    I wouldnt trust plaster board fixing when it comes to book shelves


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