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Oil Heating Thermostat Query

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  • 14-10-2019 12:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭


    We have oil central heating in the house.

    There are two thermostats - one in a bedroom upstairs, one in the kitchen downstairs. The one in the kitchen has to be set at 26/27 degrees or higher to come on even when the kitchen is feeling really cold. Pain the arse having it there but as in rented accom we couldnt get it moved.

    Over the past two years we've had to turn up the dial. I believe it was only fitted three years ago, just before we moved in so not that old. Is there any way to test the temp on it or get it regulated without needing to call a plumber or electrician? Sometimes the bedroom also feels chilly (I can take all levels of cold but sometimes I even feel the chill) yet the thermostat will have the heating off upstairs & need to turn it to 20 or higher.

    There is a small gap around some skirting boards which I must try and fill but I dont believe its big enough for the chill factor.

    Any ideas or suggestions for best settings for the oil boiler or test testing the heating system/thermostat?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Place a household thermometer alongside the room stat and then turn the stat briefly fully clockwise to ensure its calling for heat then slowly turn it anticlockwise until you hear it clicking off.....compare this setting with the thermometer, then turn it very slowly clockwise until you hear it clicking on, there should only be a few degrees (maybe 3 or so) between on and off.

    70C/75C would be a reasonable setpoint for the boiler stat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    John.G wrote: »
    Place a household thermometer alongside the room stat and then turn the stat briefly fully clockwise to ensure its calling for heat then slowly turn it anticlockwise until you hear it clicking off.....compare this setting with the thermometer, then turn it very slowly clockwise until you hear it clicking on, there should only be a few degrees (maybe 3 or so) between on and off.

    70C/75C would be a reasonable setpoint for the boiler stat.

    Thanks John!

    Did all that and its just weird. The radiators, no matter how high the thermostat goes, just dont get too hot to the touch like they did previously. And I had the oil on this morning for hot water for an hour and there was little hot water. Wonder if something is up with the system?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Can you post the make/model/age of the boiler and also the number of rads including and number that are singles or doubles.


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    John.G wrote: »
    Can you post the make/model/age of the boiler and also the number of rads including and number that are singles or doubles.

    Its a Firebird Enviromax boiler. I believe it was only installed before we moved in, so about 3-3.5 years ago. Hasn't been serviced since we moved in.

    There are 8 rads downstairs (2 sitting room, one porch, one (small) hall, one (small) under-stairs bathroom; 1 kitchen, 1 playroom, 1 (small) utility room).

    There are 7 rads upstairs (2 main bedroom, 1 second bedroom, 1 third bedroom, 1 hall/landing area, 1 (small) main bathroom, 1 (small) en-suite).

    All are TVC rads. Thermostat on the wall in the kitchen and also in the main bedroom. I've adjusted the TVC controls on all rads to be at 3 now (watched some vids from PlumberParts) and put downstairs thermo on 24/25 (thats when it clicked) and upstairs on 19/20.

    I put the thermo on the boiler itself to 70-75degrees.

    All rads are warm at the top but none get boiling hot like they once did. Watched a vid on rad balancing so may need to do that.

    It was the hot-water aspect that most worried me this morning. It comes on for 20 mins by itself each morning and wasn't enough hot water for 2 showers like there used to be.


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    All rads are like this


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    You have 15 rads and if we assume ~ 2kw each then the total output is ~ 25/30 kw, you dont give the output of the boiler but its possibly a 50/90 which may have been set to 70 or ~ 21 kw output which would be underpowerd for your requirements but the burner nozzle can be changed to give ~ 26 kw output. That said, I presume the boiler cuts out after an hour or so in the morning and then cycles on/off ? if so then the rads should be "roasting" all over. I dont think 20 minutes is enough to heat a cylinder of cold water, you would need to time it to come on for an hour or so, if you have a cylinder stat ensure that its set to 60/65C.
    Its also possible that the circulating pump setting is too low, can you post the make and exact model number or take a pic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭jimf


    could be something as simple as a lazy circulating pump don't assume it was changed when the boiler was fitted

    maybe the boiler itself needs a good service and set up properly with a flugas analyser

    some stats around that time on firebird boilers wer troublesome

    maybe the system is just low in water do you have 2 tanks in the attic a large and a small


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    Pics (1) of boiler outside, thermostat in kitchen, system in the hotpress


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    Pics (2) of boiler outside, thermostat in kitchen, system in the hotpress


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    jimf wrote: »
    could be something as simple as a lazy circulating pump don't assume it was changed when the boiler was fitted

    maybe the boiler itself needs a good service and set up properly with a flugas analyser

    some stats around that time on firebird boilers wer troublesome

    maybe the system is just low in water do you have 2 tanks in the attic a large and a small

    Just one tank in the attic and its relatively small.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭jimf


    choicer wrote: »
    Pics (2) of boiler outside, thermostat in kitchen, system in the hotpress

    picture 3 in this post shows your system pressure at zero unless your gauge is faulty this is where your problem is get a plumber to check the system for you
    pressure here should be at approx. 1bar cold


    and get the boiler serviced as well and set up properly


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭jimf


    hope you don't mind me asking is this a property you are renting if so this is an issue your landlord should be addressing


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    jimf wrote: »
    hope you don't mind me asking is this a property you are renting if so this is an issue your landlord should be addressing

    Tis a rental but just want to make sure we've set up the heating system right before making any calls. Can take some time down here in Tipp to get a plumber out and dont want to have a cold xmas.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭jimf


    get on to your landlord tell him your issues

    from reading back on your full post id guess your system pressure has been dropping gradually and your heating system is now low in water

    your boiler is now cutting out a lot sooner than it should because of the low water level


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭choicer


    Forgot to add to this with the cause. Turns out a part of the boiler (can't remember the name put in image IMG_20191212_133711.jpg above its underneath all that) was gone. It was a white plastic u-bend type of thing. Since these boilers were released they've been replaced with metal versions of the u-bend. Boiler also needed a service.

    The white thing was slowly disintegrating and once it got hot and expanded, it cut the boiler out. So when the boiler was getting hot this part was causing the boiler to then shut up shop.

    Been mighty since it was replaced with the rads getting as hot as they should and been on far less than any time in the last few years.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,466 ✭✭✭John.G


    Condensate trap.


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