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Swapping engine

  • 09-06-2021 9:13pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭


    Engine in my car is shot, no bueno, she's dead. After stressing for a while about getting a car for €2000 thereabouts and taking a risk in that. A friend of mine (who's a qualified mechanic) said he'd fit an engine for me if I went off and sourced one. So I've been looking and the engine code is D4FD and power output on my car is 116bhp, I've seen engines that are the very same code, but with 140bhp, would this make a difference if I were to buy a 140bhp engine with D4FD code? Any issues with assembly or would everything be the same. I'm unsure if the power would be different and if clutch and other components could deal with it. Also does it matter if engine comes out of an automatic car when mine is manual? Anything else to watch out for, any useful information is much appreciated. Hopefully this works out and I can stop banging my head off the wall


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 14,192 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    Engine in my car is shot, no bueno, she's dead. After stressing for a while about getting a car for €2000 thereabouts and taking a risk in that. A friend of mine (who's a qualified mechanic) said he'd fit an engine for me if I went off and sourced one. So I've been looking and the engine code is D4FD and power output on my car is 116bhp, I've seen engines that are the very same code, but with 140bhp, would this make a difference if I were to buy a 140bhp engine with D4FD code? Any issues with assembly or would everything be the same. I'm unsure if the power would be different and if clutch and other components could deal with it. Also does it matter if engine comes out of an automatic car when mine is manual? Anything else to watch out for, any useful information is much appreciated. Hopefully this works out and I can stop banging my head off the wall

    It might be a solution to your problem and if the car was generally ok before once you have a serviceable engine installed you should be good to go.

    As for getting the right one you really should get the mechanic to source it.

    He has the knowledge and skills so best to let him ok the engine even if you have to pay him a bit more.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    elperello wrote: »
    It might be a solution to your problem and if the car was generally ok before once you have a serviceable engine installed you should be good to go.

    As for getting the right one you really should get the mechanic to source it.

    He has the knowledge and skills so best to let him ok the engine even if you have to pay him a bit more.

    Car itself is in good nick, engine is just knackered, all the accessories are fine. It's fairly straightforward with the Hyundai there isnt too many different engine codes and from 2012-2019 I believe is D4FD for 1.7crdi engines although there may have been slight changes along the years I'll try source one thats like for like with the one in my car and run it by him before I make payment, also talking to the lads in a breakers I'm sure they'll help out. He's putting the engine in and hasn't made any notions about payment, he's a Saint in that way but I couldn't allow someone take on a job like that without being compensated


  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭mk7r


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    Car itself is in good nick, engine is just knackered, all the accessories are fine. It's fairly straightforward with the Hyundai there isnt too many different engine codes and from 2012-2019 I believe is D4FD for 1.7crdi engines although there may have been slight changes along the years I'll try source one thats like for like with the one in my car and run it by him before I make payment, also talking to the lads in a breakers I'm sure they'll help out. He's putting the engine in and hasn't made any notions about payment, he's a Saint in that way but I couldn't allow someone take on a job like that without being compensated

    Go like for like, Hyundai/Kia made small annoying changes so it could be a nightmare


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Yeah, there's a bazillion subtle variations of that bare engine, i'd only take the same bhp from the same year as your car. Second hand engines are scarce and expensivr when they do come up for reasons you're now aware of.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    Great stuff thanks lads, I'll go for a 2013 D4FD from a 116bhp i40 so to be safe, yeah they're expensive enough, looking around €2,500 for the bare block with no accessories, there's some reconditioned ones for around same price on Ebay but I find eBay to be hit and miss and don't want to take a chance on it once I've transferred someone €2,500, and they all specify they want my old engine I presume to re condition and sell on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Check with Eurocarparts, I remember getting one from them before. It was a base engine not a short block but was sensible enough money.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    Check with Eurocarparts, I remember getting one from them before. It was a base engine not a short block but was sensible enough money.

    Eurocarparts as in the parts supplier? Didn't know they traded in second hand engines. Also by base engine do you mean just the block,head and valve cover and nothing else, that's probably what I'll end up getting even though it'll be more work stripping parts off the old engine and onto the replacement


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    This may be a stupid question, but does it matter if the engine I get is from a manual or automatic transmission? Mine is manual


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    Eurocarparts as in the parts supplier? Didn't know they traded in second hand engines. Also by base engine do you mean just the block,head and valve cover and nothing else, that's probably what I'll end up getting even though it'll be more work stripping parts off the old engine and onto the replacement

    Yes the motor factors, it was a recon engine and it was around €2k on an exchange basis iirc.

    You'll be stripping those bits either way, you'll either be getting a base engine or a short block, if you get a short block you'll have to swap the cylinder head etc over from your old engine too. You won't get a recon engine with all the ancillaries attached, in fact a lot of second hand engines wouldn't even come like that.

    I think the auto cars only came with the high power engine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    Yes the motor factors, it was a recon engine and it was around €2k on an exchange basis iirc.

    You'll be stripping those bits either way, you'll either be getting a base engine or a short block, if you get a short block you'll have to swap the cylinder head etc over from your old engine too. You won't get a recon engine with all the ancillaries attached, in fact a lot of second hand engines wouldn't even come like that.

    I think the auto cars only came with the high power engine.

    I've never seen them advertise anything like that, I must give them a shout so, if I wanted to do it as cheaply ad possibly I could just get a short block so as both my mechanic and my friend who is a mechanic reckon the damage is in the bottom end, big end bearings and/or main bearings, but I'll more than likely just get the base altogether as I'm unsure if damage could have extended to the cylinder head when the car died, red oil pressure light isn't a good sign to me. My friend reckons it'll take the weekend to do. Maybe longer if I give him a hand lol


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  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭mk7r


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    I've never seen them advertise anything like that, I must give them a shout so, if I wanted to do it as cheaply ad possibly I could just get a short block so as both my mechanic and my friend who is a mechanic reckon the damage is in the bottom end, big end bearings and/or main bearings, but I'll more than likely just get the base altogether as I'm unsure if damage could have extended to the cylinder head when the car died, red oil pressure light isn't a good sign to me. My friend reckons it'll take the weekend to do. Maybe longer if I give him a hand lol

    If I was you I'd get a second hand engine with injectors fuel pump etc complete, you have been on a bit of a ride and whether you needed what you needed is imo unlikely. You want to put this behind you? Get complete engine and ancillaries


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    mk7r wrote: »
    If I was you I'd get a second hand engine with injectors fuel pump etc complete, you have been on a bit of a ride and whether you needed what you needed is imo unlikely. You want to put this behind you? Get complete engine and ancillaries

    I see where you're coming from, but would my refurbished injectors not be a safer bet from the old engine, my main worry would be if the turbo is in working order if there's been metal fillings running around the engine within the oil, which is more than likely. Also the high pressure pump that I got 2nd hand seems to be working fine as the car started up no problem but once it was running it sounded like everything inside was loose, didn't appear to be a fueling issue, I didn't notice anything wrong with the turbo beforehand there's wasn't any smoke or lack of boost or excessive whine


  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭mk7r


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    I see where you're coming from, but would my refurbished injectors not be a safer bet from the old engine, my main worry would be if the turbo is in working order if there's been metal fillings running around the engine within the oil, which is more than likely. Also the high pressure pump that I got 2nd hand seems to be working fine as the car started up no problem but once it was running it sounded like everything inside was loose, didn't appear to be a fueling issue, I didn't notice anything wrong with the turbo beforehand there's wasn't any smoke or lack of boost or excessive whine

    Not a safer bet no, you will have them as spares if needs be but you won't require them


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    mk7r wrote: »
    Not a safer bet no, you will have them as spares if needs be but you won't require them

    Been ringing around some breakers, seem to get better deals that way rather than buying one online, got quoted €1700 for the engine with all bells and whistles, including turbo, and delivery from a salvage yard in Mayo that seems to have good reviews. Only catch is they take my engine, if I can do it for that money then I'd take the lot as I don't know what other stuff has happened to other components in my own engine, other side is I don't know the history of the used one I'll be getting other than was told there's 190k km on it


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,577 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    The problem with buying an I40 engine in a breakers is that it could be as bad as what you are taking out of it.
    Personally Id go with IVI and see if they have a price supplied and fitted.

    Otherwise I really think you are throwing good money after bad with that I40 - Its become a money pit at this stage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    Hellrazer wrote: »
    The problem with buying an I40 engine in a breakers is that it could be as bad as what you are taking out of it.
    Personally Id go with IVI and see if they have a price supplied and fitted.

    Otherwise I really think you are throwing good money after bad with that I40 - Its become a money pit at this stage.

    To be honest I think mine was destined to be a money pit, I see plenty of i40s same year and 2012 on the road regularly, I know people that own the same year as me and have had no issues, my mechanic also said he's never seen them give bother like that, he's the person that said they're reliable when I asked him what would would a good car to go for. And they have customers that bring them in just for services. So I'm hoping swapping the engine out will sort it all


  • Registered Users Posts: 719 ✭✭✭mk7r


    BlakeS94 wrote: »
    To be honest I think mine was destined to be a money pit, I see plenty of i40s same year and 2012 on the road regularly, I know people that own the same year as me and have had no issues, my mechanic also said he's never seen them give bother like that, he's the person that said they're reliable when I asked him what would would a good car to go for. And they have customers that bring them in just for services. So I'm hoping swapping the engine out will sort it all
    What kind of mechanic would tell you an i40 is reliable....


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    The sort of mechanic that's never seen one before.


  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    just found my old blown engine i40 on donedeal, must be running well if the mechanic I sold it to did a good job replacing the engine. Any takers lol



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,804 ✭✭✭passatman86


    You had some luck with that car



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  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    I know, it's behind me now I love my Mondeo, best of luck to the next owner though



  • Posts: 468 [Deleted User]


    No offense but try to keep the next car better. Cut the service intervals shorter and DIY. You do not need to wait until you see the yellow/red light, make your own service intervals. It is possible to adjust the computer settings lower too. Typically many garages set it maximum some reason.... (they want to kill your engine or what???). Sure you can drive the max interval too but you need to buy the proper consumables too. Not any oil or filter, special long mileages and only from dealer. I know, you never care about that until the next time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    What are you on about? I kept that car golden it was a mechanics error after replacing the head gasket that fu#ked it



  • Posts: 468 [Deleted User]


    Finally we got the real reason, thank you. Do you know exact reason why head gasket ruins your well kept engine? Typically every aftermarket parts have a 2 years warranty if installed properly by manufacturer specification.



  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    I have another post up about what happened, basically fuel feed and return going into the engine were put on the wrong way around, engine ran like ****, had it back to the mechanic that did the head gasket a number of times, engine went up in smoke shortly after



  • Posts: 468 [Deleted User]


    I read multiple your posts and now it is clear. This is shame. Your mechanic was swapnostic and you paid big money. If you see high estimated bill, always ask 2nd opinion from other shop. These days cars is bit complicated and there is more and more electronics around. Walk away if they do not have a garage service manuals. They do not need to know everything from there, just very specific things like procedures, torque specs etc. It is very sad to see people who say "I have a 30 years experience, I know everything". Unfortunately nobody can not know everything. Do not understand me wrong, 30 years experience is highly valuable. 30 years ago was things very simple. Now even the simplest thing can be over engineered. Only 1 thing is sure, garages/mechanics who does not evolve does not have a place in future. Be angry (if anyone) want, it is reality.



  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    He probably replaced the engine in my i40, and then reconditioned the one he took out and that's the one he's selling. Profits,profits,profits.



  • Posts: 468 [Deleted User]


    To get even more profit out, sell these almost new parts separately and earn even bigger money.

    There is only one question. It was made deliberately or not?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 983 ✭✭✭BlakeS94


    What was made deliberately?



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