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Rockwool vs Knauf Earthwool for acoustics

  • 26-11-2020 1:11pm
    #1
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    Is there much of a difference in acoustic performance between Rockwool slabs and Knauf Acoustic Earthwool?

    Earthwool looks like the same stuff I've insulated my attic with (topped up) whereas Rockwool seems far more solid. I'm looking to put insulation between the floor joists under the floorboards of the first floor of the house to help reduce impact noise from next door. I accept there might be minimal benefit but I'm willing to give it a try before actually renovating the rooms a bit.

    Thanks!


Comments

  • #2
    Dudda
    Registered Users Posts: 1,541 ✭✭✭Dudda


    Pretty similar and while they'll help they won't make a massive difference. How are you fitting them? Are you lifting the timber floor or removing the plasterboard in the ceiling below?

    If you're lifting the floor then you should consider putting down something like the GypFloor SILENT. It's like a metal profile with foam that sits on top of the timber joists. The timber floor finish gets fixed to the metal. The foam between the timber floor finish and the timber joists helps reduce sound transfer and doesn't really change or impact the overall height of the floor.

    If you're removing the plasterboard you can fit a Gypframe Resilient Bars to the underside of the timber joist. The plasterboard then fixes to the metal bar. This also helps reduce noise transfer and is relatively cheap.

    I've used both successfully converting an old building into a public theater which needed special acoustic control. Also used them between noisy plant rooms and quiet student study areas in third level projects.

    While you can have both of the above if you go adding recessed spotlights or don't detail the perimeter of the room correctly the sound will transfer around (flanking) or through holes where you've services. Sound will always travel through the weak spots so attention to detail is critical.


  • #3
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Dudda wrote: »
    Pretty similar and while they'll help they won't make a massive difference. How are you fitting them? Are you lifting the timber floor or removing the plasterboard in the ceiling below?

    If you're lifting the floor then you should consider putting down something like the GypFloor SILENT. It's like a metal profile with foam that sits on top of the timber joists. The timber floor finish gets fixed to the metal. The foam between the timber floor finish and the timber joists helps reduce sound transfer and doesn't really change or impact the overall height of the floor.

    If you're removing the plasterboard you can fit a Gypframe Resilient Bars to the underside of the timber joist. The plasterboard then fixes to the metal bar. This also helps reduce noise transfer and is relatively cheap.

    I've used both successfully converting an old building into a public theater which needed special acoustic control. Also used them between noisy plant rooms and quiet student study areas in third level projects.

    While you can have both of the above if you go adding recessed spotlights or don't detail the perimeter of the room correctly the sound will transfer around (flanking) or through holes where you've services. Sound will always travel through the weak spots so attention to detail is critical.

    Excellent points and it all fits with the research I have been doing on this stuff. The trouble is it's a semi-d and the impact noise comes from the attached house so I'm probably on a hiding to nothing really but given we're going to have carpets laid soon I thought I might as well take up the floorboards and fill the empty space with some insulation to see if it'll help...


  • #4
    Yellow_Fern
    Registered Users Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    Fabio wrote: »
    Excellent points and it all fits with the research I have been doing on this stuff. The trouble is it's a semi-d and the impact noise comes from the attached house so I'm probably on a hiding to nothing really but given we're going to have carpets laid soon I thought I might as well take up the floorboards and fill the empty space with some insulation to see if it'll help...

    When you put it down beware of the triple cavity effecthttps://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/triple-leaf-effect

    Is the party wall drylined?


  • #5
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Yellow_Fern wrote: »
    When you put it down beware of the triple cavity effecthttps://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/triple-leaf-effect

    Is the party wall drylined?
    It is. I ended up lifting the floorboards nearest the chimney and filled some Rockwool in there, not great, might not make any difference but I don't think it'll do any harm either.


  • #6
    Yellow_Fern
    Registered Users Posts: 2,569 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    Fabio wrote: »
    It is. I ended up lifting the floorboards nearest the chimney and filled some Rockwool in there, not great, might not make any difference but I don't think it'll do any harm either.

    A soundproofing contractor was explaining to me that the drywall can amplify the sound. Removing the drywall and giving it an old fashioned hard plaster can often help despite being counter intrutive but naturally consult a expert if go ahead with this.


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  • #7
    Fabio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Yellow_Fern wrote: »
    A soundproofing contractor was explaining to me that the drywall can amplify the sound. Removing the drywall and giving it an old fashioned hard plaster can often help despite being counter intrutive but naturally consult a expert if go ahead with this.

    Might be more hassle than it is worth maybe, although thanks for letting me know. I know that, being a timber-framed semi-d there'll always be some form of transmission.


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