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Electrical Heating

1356

Comments

  • #62
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    phormium wrote: »
    oil filled plug in radiator is very efficient for an electric heater

    All electrical heaters have almost identical efficiency, which is close to 100%.


  • #63
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users Posts: 73,381 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    The main reason I’d pick an oil filled over a convection heater is that it gives off a more pleasant heat. A converter can be smelly and give off dry heat.
    They’re also inherently safer.

    I would say get a regular sized oil filled heater, they’ll have a thermostat anyway so as long as you’re trying to keep the room at a certain temperature, the power consumption will be the same as a smaller one.


  • #64
    Duke of Url
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,662 ✭✭✭Duke of Url


    EGH20AW_1_Supersize.jpg?width=937&height=937&v=24

    Would something like this work for you?


  • #65
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users Posts: 73,381 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Duke of Url wrote: »
    EGH20AW_1_Supersize.jpg?width=937&height=937&v=24

    Would something like this work for you?

    That’s got an app and stuff? Might be handy.
    Just to note, it’s still a 2000w heater but it’s smart capabilities might help to not have itself heating all the time.

    On another note:
    I’m don’t think that heating the room 24 hours a day has much benefit if the room loses heat.
    Put it on a timer to come on an hour before you start work.


  • #66
    Duke of Url
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,662 ✭✭✭Duke of Url


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    That’s got an app and stuff? Might be handy.
    Just to note, it’s still a 2000w heater but it’s smart capabilities might help to not have itself heating all the time.

    On another note:
    I’m don’t think that heating the room 24 hours a day has much benefit if the room loses heat.
    Put it on a timer to come on an hour before you start work.

    Looks good alright

    https://www.buyitdirect.ie/p/electriq-2000w-wall-mountable-low-energy-smart-wifi-alexa-designer-glass-heater-ultra-slim-only-8cm-bathroom-heater-ip24-egh20aw?refsource=bidieadwords&mkwid=sgDgGq1t3_dc&pcrid=442403281605&product=EGH20AW&pgrid=104084082193&ptaid=aud-891296860025:pla-839045911843&channel=googlesearch&gclid=CjwKCAjww5r8BRB6EiwArcckCzAtJVvchwnQM77p7BvKmC-cVYNel5mefz3MaLMHBfTG1NanpG4QuxoC85gQAvD_BwE


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  • #67
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users Posts: 73,381 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    3-E5-F3-D1-A-C0-F4-447-D-B8-AA-2-FA9575-CEDAA.jpg

    This is what the business end looks like. Regular convector heater.

    Can’t believe they’re recommending to mount those up high on a wall.


  • #68
    POBox19
    Registered Users Posts: 637 ✭✭✭POBox19


    Oil filled radiator, 1.5kw should do the job for about €50. I got one a few years ago for a small home office and I could set it and forget it. Ran it on a thermostat setting all day, sometimes overnight. The room was always comfortable, no smell or noise. It was very easy on the electric bill, in fact didn’t notice it at all.


  • #69
    IsThisOneFree
    Registered Users Posts: 254 ✭✭IsThisOneFree


    Thanks for the replies.

    That's an interesting looking piece of kit alright, it might be a bit big for the office though as there isn't much floor space left that isn't occupied already :-) The oil radiators tend to be a bit taller and slimmer at least. But thanks !


  • #70
    Duke of Url
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,662 ✭✭✭Duke of Url


    https://www.aldi.ie/electric-convector-heater-%26-remote/p/801602386423200


  • #71
    JackieChang
    Registered Users Posts: 1,494 ✭✭✭JackieChang


    I've just moved into an apartment (rented) and the storage heater in the kitchen doesn't heat up at night like it's supposed to.

    There is only one cable coming out of it, and it's plugged into a regular old socket. There doesn't seem to have one of those "spurs" with a little neon light like the other storage heater in the hall.

    The only feature that works is the on demand convector heater. But it does not store heat at night like it's supposed to.

    Can storage heaters work as normal (i.e. charge up when the night rate kicks in) if they are plugged into a regular old socket?

    I don't know what else to check. It's literally stone cold when I wake up in the morning.

    I also know exactly how they're supposed to work with the input/output knobs etc. I lived in an apartment before with these.

    However I'm a bit discombobulated with this one.


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  • #72
    JoChervil
    Registered Users Posts: 2,002 ✭✭✭JoChervil


    Could someone, please, explain me one thing. Why lower BER rating excludes air to air heat pump?

    If someone has bad rating and storage heaters, so must pay much for heating anyway. So can't such person install air to air pump and add some heat from storage heaters, if from the pump is not enough? Or install two pumps? Wouldn't it be a better solution, than using only storage heating?

    But maybe I don't understand something and it is simply not working in a lower rating house?

    Imagine a situation, when it is a single retired person spending a lot of time in Spain in a winter time. They are not interested in a big investment and a big job done. Instead of spending money on better insulation or wet heating system they prefer to travel. They already have storage heaters. Wouldn't it be a good solution for them to add air to air heat pump/s, if it requires so little job and investment?


  • #73
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,531 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    JoChervil wrote: »
    Imagine a situation, when it is a single retired person spending a lot of time in Spain in a winter time. They are not interested in a big investment and a big job done. Instead of spending money on better insulation or wet heating system they prefer to travel. They already have storage heaters. Wouldn't it be a good solution for them to add air to air heat pump/s, if it requires so little job and investment?

    BER do not take personal circumstances are the cost of an investment into account.

    From this link:

    "Your BER is calculated through energy use for space and hot water heating, ventilation, and lighting."


  • #74
    splashthecash
    Registered Users Posts: 2,305 ✭✭✭splashthecash


    We have a 2 metre wall in which we are planning on installing a built in electric fire into but there is so much choice, what should I be looking for first and foremost? Power output? How much electricity it uses? Any brands I should I stay away from?

    We’ll probably go for something around 90-100cm wide


  • #75
    colm_mcm
    Registered Users Posts: 73,381 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    They all use the same amount of electricity for the amount of heat you get out.


  • #76
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If you heat a liquid or a mass then the heat doesn't eff off as fast as heating a gas (air) so while they use the same lecky for the same heat some have lower duty cycles.
    An oil filled rad will have a lower duty cycle than a convection heater.


  • #77
    Duke of Url
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,662 ✭✭✭Duke of Url


    splashthecash wrote: »
    We have a 2 metre wall in which we are planning on installing a built in electric fire into but there is so much choice, what should I be looking for first and foremost? Power output? How much electricity it uses? Any brands I should I stay away from?

    We’ll probably go for something around 90-100cm wide

    We just got a 120cm Electric fireplace installed. You will need an outlet installed.

    Our fireplace was mounted into a cabinet.


  • #78
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    If you heat a liquid or a mass then the heat doesn't eff off as fast as heating a gas (air) so while they use the same lecky for the same heat some have lower duty cycles.
    An oil filled rad will have a lower duty cycle than a convection heater.

    If it costs the same, I'd imagine the duty cycle must be the same. Might be more actual cycles with one than the other maybe.


  • #79
    ercork
    Registered Users Posts: 177 ✭✭ercork


    JoChervil wrote: »
    Could someone, please, explain me one thing. Why lower BER rating excludes air to air heat pump?

    If someone has bad rating and storage heaters, so must pay much for heating anyway. So can't such person install air to air pump and add some heat from storage heaters, if from the pump is not enough? Or install two pumps? Wouldn't it be a better solution, than using only storage heating?

    But maybe I don't understand something and it is simply not working in a lower rating house?

    Imagine a situation, when it is a single retired person spending a lot of time in Spain in a winter time. They are not interested in a big investment and a big job done. Instead of spending money on better insulation or wet heating system they prefer to travel. They already have storage heaters. Wouldn't it be a good solution for them to add air to air heat pump/s, if it requires so little job and investment?

    I don't see any reason why an A2A can not be used as a replacement for storage heaters, regardless of BER. If your storage heater is pumping out 1.5kW of heat every hour, your A2A can do the exact same thing at half the cost (or less). Most A2As can churn out 3 or 4 kW of heat per hour so could replace a couple of large storage heaters.

    In fact, replacing a storage heater with an A2A would actually improve your BER as the type of heating system you have is one of the main factors that feeds into the BER formula.


  • #80
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Bruthal wrote: »
    If it costs the same, I'd imagine the duty cycle must be the same. Might be more actual cycles with one than the other maybe.


    A thermal mass has better heat retention that a gas. Hot air will leave an Irish house to beat the band.


    A WBS will hold heat long after the fire is out.


  • #81
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    A thermal mass has better heat retention that a gas. Hot air will leave an Irish house to beat the band.


    A WBS will hold heat long after the fire is out.

    Which is cheaper to heat the living room, oil filled or convection?

    Presumably if the oil filled retains heat longer after its turned off, it takes longer to heat up also.


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  • #82
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Dunno. I tend to go oil filled because I can stick a cushion on it and sit on it worst case scenario.
    It'd be worth sticking a kWh counter on to find out.

    I'm just applying the does a fridge work better with stuff in it or empty after you open the door mentality.


  • #83
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Dunno. I tend to go oil filled because I can stick a cushion on it and sit on it worst case scenario.
    It'd be worth sticking a kWh counter on to find out.

    I'm just applying the does a fridge work better with stuff in it or empty after you open the door mentality.

    It's an interesting one. The oil filled compared to convection is hard to compare. As well as kWh meter, a room Stát is required. Both to keep the room at exact same temp will read the same kWh over time. But that's the crux. Setting both the same. Although the same exact matching comparison of 2 different convection heaters would also have the same requirements.

    If oil filled and convection are placed outdoors, the oil filled may go on and off while the convection doesn't. The oil is limiting the element output. So the 2kw convector will put out 2kw the entire time, but the oil filled might not, depending on the ambient air temp.

    An upright empty fridge, the cool air rolls out when door opened. But full of already cooled mass, it's more stable. But when you first put the contents in, there may be a longer compressor running time than if just re-cooling the air again.


  • #84
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I used to put mass into a fridge (bottles of water) as I took it out (edibles).
    Van life. Worked great. Top loading is a head-wreck unless you over-engineer it with a carousel and sliding drawers.

    Open fire or WBS.
    WBS hands down.


  • #85
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Open fire or WBS.
    WBS hands down.

    One is directly heating outside much more than the other there most likely.

    I installed a boiler stove here and linked it into the gas heating system. I prefer it to the gas, although gas likely cheaper in my setup. Stove certainly miles ahead of open fire.


  • #86
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Because one's heating air thuther is heating cast iron methinks.

    I'm still insulating....haven't even started on better sources.
    Geothermal would be nice. Oil will be first.

    Always better to unify a system than several stand-alones, I've found anyway, it gets real interesting when the sources become loads.


  • #87
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    Because one's heating air thuther is heating cast iron methinks.
    That, plus you have control of the directed air intake.
    I'm still insulating....haven't even started on better sources.
    Geothermal would be nice. Oil will be first.

    Always better to unify a system than several stand-alones, I've found anyway, it gets real interesting when the sources become loads.

    The stove would do me on its own. Gas is handy with the sonoff relays in its motorised valves though. Faulty thermistor on its return pipe this week though. Too dangerous for me to fix, obviously.


  • #88
    Padre_Pio
    Registered Users Posts: 4,894 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Which is cheaper to heat the living room, oil filled or convection?

    Presumably if the oil filled retains heat longer after its turned off, it takes longer to heat up also.

    Technically it's the same to heat the room, but the temperature ramps are smoother with the oil heater.

    A convection gives you heat in a second, but once it turns off the heat disappears if there's any draught.
    An oil takes a while to get up to temp, but the oil stays warm even when the element is turned off, so you get a nicer, more even heat.


  • #89
    JackieChang
    Registered Users Posts: 1,494 ✭✭✭JackieChang


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    WBS hands down.

    What is wbs?


  • #90
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Bruthal wrote: »
    The stove would do me on its own.


    Arah I like making things complicated. Like heating a back boiler on a stove with geo-thermal.




    ....not saying I will..just that I will be able.
    I've a colleague can heat his radiators with his immersion.
    He's no mains at his light switches. Just signal cable to a central relay control network.









    WBS = wood burning stove.


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  • #91
    autumnalcore
    Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭autumnalcore


    You can get diy install spit heat pumps where the lines are push fit and pre evacuated. Loads of chinese ****e out there but Sanyo units come up fairly regularly for about €700 delivered on a pallet from UK on ebay.


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