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Ford Transit conversion to camper MKII

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I was not aware of this smart charge alternator thingie.

    I've seen reports of people saying that the split charge relay works, some say it doesn't blah blah blah.

    Judging by the image below, I have a smart alternator (the plug on the negative terminal.

    Liamalot, can you explain the configuration of the wiring for the contactor and the dc to dc converter please?


    I'm assuming using a relay on the battery light from the alternator won't work in this case?

    Fuck me those dc-dc chargers are expensive
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTEK-D250SE-Dual-DC-DC-Battery-to-Battery-Charger-Transit-Custom-Split-Charge/253543922910?epid=20034910903&hash=item3b08653cde:g:c-UAAOSw-XVdQ7fJ

    IMG-20200830-151207.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]



    Judging by the image below, I have a smart alternator (the plug on the negative terminal.



    I haven't had the pleasure myself so I don't know what i'm looking at.
    Your alternator symptoms are classic smart alternator operation parameters.
    It turns off periodically and then goes max output when you hit the brakes [regen. engine braking).
    in the interm it runs down the ancilliary battery that's supposed to be souper whizzbang calcium plates.
    It's a dual battery setup btw. The house battery will be a third.


    I'm assuming using a relay on the battery light from the alternator won't work in this case?


    Not on a Ford since Euro 4.
    The engine loads will discharge the house battery.


    Fuck me those dc-dc chargers are expensive


    :pac: They sure are! That's not even a very powerful one or a good one.


    So an expensive electronic box gives you two batteries fighting over one alternator.
    Two alternators gives you double the power for a fraction of the cost.


    Redarc and Sterling are the only contenders.
    You'll pick up a used Sterling battery to battery charger in November/Demember on Ebay for ~£120
    or you can get a refurb


    Sterlings have the most output but they are made of bubblegum and the price reflects the odds of a warranty return.
    Redarc have a much higher build quality but lesser output.


    Another thing I've had and tested two 120A [input specification) Sterlings they never do more than 90A.


    My recommendation is keep it simple and reliable; get and fit a used bosch alternator off a luxury diesel.


    As for manuals they're on the manufacter websites. It's engine battery -> box -> house battery. Some will have voltage and temperature sensing.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    The man's a professional spoofer. It's the truth when it's not in direct relation to one of his own products. After that the waters are entirely muddy. Take it as an overview of the problem but reserve judgement on the product[s).



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    My recommendation is keep it simple and reliable; get and fit a used bosch alternator off a luxury diesel.


    I happen to have an old 96 transit camper with an alternator.........

    some fabricating to be done to get it installed, additional pulleys etc...


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    You might have dodged it...I'm mistaken it's Euro 6 onwards


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    My T1 came with a 45A alternator. I swapped it for a w202 150a and never looked back.
    I'll be putting linked twins in the Vario.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Sir Liamalot - do you have any chargers for sale? Are you based in the North West? It might be nice to meet to have a socially distant chat. I'm still a little fuzzy on some of the recommendations you've made and the need for them.

    I've been doing some research around some of the power aspects, and it seems that these days there's a permanent 240V supply to the sockets in the van. This also ties in with the theory of what Liamalot has been saying about a regular domestic fridge on 240 rather than an absorption fridge.

    Something along the lines of a priority shower unit would take care of the auto-switching between inverter power and plug in site power.

    It seems as though I'm stuck in the olden days of running everything on 12v, and the 240 only available when there's a plug in connection. Lots of learning here


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I went Shavenging today, or Scopping whichever the kids use these days. For the older of us I was Scavenging and shopping..

    I picked up the following today:
    • Drivers door lock
    • Sliding Door (inc window)
    • Drivers side panel window
    • 2 X rear panel windows
    • 2 X rear doors (inc windows)
    • Rear D Pillar on Passenger side (More to come)

    I have no interest in the rear doors save for the windows but it was easier to take the doors than just the glass since they have integrated wipers.

    Same logic with the sliding door, though I was planning to swap out the sliding door. However the tinworm on the donor door seems to have set in, so I think I'll keep with my own door and just cut the glass out and swap over.
    I did switch out all three rollers / hinges and it made a big difference to the rolling of the door.

    Small panel windows for the rear

    IMG-20200919-193235.jpg

    Donor Doors

    IMG-20200919-193316.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    In regards to the pillar, the passenger side of the van at the rear got a nasty slap on my van. I've since learned that the MK6 & MK7 are exactly the same from the dashboard backwards, so I took the pillar from the van that was kindly donating the parts as per the previous post.

    Existing Damage:

    IMG-20200919-193333.jpg

    Donor Pillar:

    IMG-20200919-193226.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    To follow on from this I started to Schutz the underside of the van.

    I bought a gun to do the job, which also had a hose and a nozzle to do the inside of the chassis rails. Looks like the wee hose is useless. It doesn't seem to be doing anything to the inside of the rails when I use it, versus the spray gun on its own.

    Before:
    IMG-20200919-182855.jpg]

    After:

    IMG-20200919-183028.jpg

    IMG-20200919-183152.jpg

    IMG-20200919-183202.jpg

    IMG-20200919-183205.jpg


    I also replaced the drivers door lock. I was astonished when I put the barrel back in that the key did't work - I couldn't believe it.

    I'm such a genius that I put the same lock back into the door that I took out. Had to take it out again. When I did though, things were great - all went well.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I've used this stuff on the inside of the lower panels that drop below the floor. Pulled out a rubber bung and sprayed them.
    I also did the inside of the chassis rails too, it was an easy job. Need to get some more though - I ran out

    IMG-20200926-165213.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Removed the 24v eberspacher heater from the old van with a look to tidying it up and making sure it fires. I have a 12V battery that I can use to test it before install.

    Since it came from a Scania, it had a rather long loom with an additional socket that wasn't used. Most of the control panel wires were looped through this and they were just bundled together under the seat bench.

    I took the time to remove this socket and all the needless wiring that was with it.

    IMG_20200926_203012.jpg

    You can see I took Sir Liamalot's advice too.

    IMG_20200926_202929.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Reminded myself yesterday that I'm useless when it comes to skilled welding, or bodywork. On the plus side, the before and after is an improvement and no holes through - This was arguably the worst arch on the van, notwithstanding the hole in the other side.
    Not bothered about the paint job at the moment. There's more body work needs doing on this and it'll most likely need some form of paint job afterwards

    Before
    IMG-20200822-181811.jpg

    After
    IMG_20200927_151329.jpg


    I've also removed all of the plastics on the outside of the old van that I intend to re-use. Going to attempt to clean them up and paint them black so they may look a bit nicer asthetically.

    I took out the Cassette toliet while I was at it, since the pump wasn't working. I remember replacing the microswitch in it during a previous life and i wanted to see if it was the same again - turns out the pump has failed and needs a new one. Replacement ones are 'spensive, around 40 - 50 STG. This one however looks a bit more appealing price wise.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Sir Liamalot - do you have any chargers for sale? Are you based in the North West? It might be nice to meet to have a socially distant chat. I'm still a little fuzzy on some of the recommendations you've made and the need for them.


    No chargers persay. I have some Morningstar PWMs knocking around, an old ProStar 12 gen. 1, and an EcoPulse 30M.


    I'm 30 mins South of Tristan.


    I've been doing some research around some of the power aspects, and it seems that these days there's a permanent 240V supply to the sockets in the van. This also ties in with the theory of what Liamalot has been saying about a regular domestic fridge on 240 rather than an absorption fridge.


    There can be. It's a matter of convenience.


    Something along the lines of a priority shower unit would take care of the auto-switching between inverter power and plug in site power.


    I can do it with a cheap 20A 3PDT DIN Rail Relay.
    An Integrated Transfer Switch on a central Inverter-Combi unit.
    Double your sockets. Shore Only & Inverter Only.
    Delay driven Relay Interlocks.
    A Manual Cam Changeover Switch.
    Or professional automated Interlocking Contactors.


    It depends on your needs and demands.


    My preferance is keep the whole lot 12v and just get a big charger.





    It seems as though I'm stuck in the olden days of running everything on 12v, and the 240 only available when there's a plug in connection. Lots of learning here


    Inverters add 20% loss (space heat). My van is 12volt everything with inverter and shore capability.


    Mains lights are madness.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    If you are scaling up to electric cooking then an inverter is essential. You can't have a 12volt appliance greater than 400W for cable and practicality purposes.

    I've a plan to put 1500W of solar on my truck and grid tie it to my house...I'm looking at 3.5kVA, 440Ah @ 24v.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    No chargers persay. I have some Morningstar PWMs knocking around, an old ProStar 12 gen. 1, and an EcoPulse 30M.


    I'm 30 mins South of Tristan.

    Is he still on this forum? I've not seen a post from that account in a long time

    Inverters add 20% loss (space heat). My van is 12volt everything with inverter and shore capability.


    Mains lights are madness.

    I'll be using 12v lights


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Ha no, he turned back to his spanners for obvious reasons. Clever lad.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Bit of a blocker at the minute. I'm waiting on someone to come and do the bodywork at the back of the van and replace the pillar, so I can't do any work on the inside really. Might get at the floor soon.

    This weekend before the monsoon I tried the captains chair for size in the drivers seat. Needed a bit of modification of the old brackets, but nothing too strenuous. Happy that I managed to avoid welding again altogether.

    I did notice that the seatbelt buckle isn't mounted to the seat base like it was on the old seat. Turns out there is a fixing on the seat base for it but its the other side of the seat since these bases were swapped from each side (as per my old thread)

    For now, the buckle that's in the floor for the passenger seat will do. I have another one that I can fix in also that will do the single passenger seat when it's fitted.

    I had planned to fit some windows, but the rain put paid to that.

    IMG-20201003-170812.jpg

    IMG-20201003-170819.jpg


    Tackled some more surface rust this weekend too.

    IMG-20201003-191041.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,364 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Are you going keeping the van yellow?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    it's the best colour :cool:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I've a mind for yellow and black, since there'll be tinted windows in the back


    yellow-black.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Main-View-Right.jpg

    683bb485b57824153223f3f852f68369.jpg

    Vob04.jpg

    5989888664388240912_1.png


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Van is gone to someone who knows about welding and stuff this weekend.

    I picked up some sheets of timber and 2x1 lats for the build. I'll start with the floor whenever the van comes back.

    I don't have a need for this stuff as of yet, but I smell another lockdown coming, so I'll have materials to keep me going this way.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    but I smell another lockdown coming, so I'll have materials to keep me going this way.


    If you read between the lines on the publicity spin and telling us what we want to hear we won't be tuther side of it until a vaccine predicted in late 2021 early 2022. We're not even halfway there yet. Buy all yer solar gear and chargers in November used on Ebay when everyone is looking thuther way.


    I make a killing every year. What I don't keep I sell with a 30% mark-up in Spring when the weekend warriors stir themselves.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    If you read between the lines on the publicity spin and telling us what we want to hear we won't be tuther side of it until a vaccine predicted in late 2021 early 2022. We're not even halfway there yet. Buy all yer solar gear and chargers in November used on Ebay when everyone is looking thuther way.


    I make a killing every year. What I don't keep I sell with a 30% mark-up in Spring when the weekend warriors stir themselves.


    Why is november such a month for it?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Everyone is paying their tax bill, getting ready for Christmas, not using their campers or even thinking about it. Can't gift used items and clearing out sheds for shopping funds. Nobody buys solar gear when it's not sunny (except me).

    MorningStar for charge controllers (MPPT will save you money in the long run because you can use domestic panels with them that are 5x the value of 12volters with PWM)
    Studer/Yellow Xantrex Inverters
    TriMetric for Battery Monitors (or cheap and cheerful Chinese)
    Albright SW80 is a fine choice for a split charge contactor for most van applications they go for about €30 used.

    Ctek mains chargers are ok. I don't use them, I hybridise solar controllers instead.
    ProNautic are as good and slightly programmable.

    Stay away from Victron (garbage), MasterVolt (extortionate garbage).
    Sterling is hit and miss...ok if the price is right...not very reliable.

    Redarc I haven't tried personally but they're Aussie defacto brand so maybe there's something to it.

    Anything like Callira, CBE, Electroblok etc. run a mile...if it says motorhome you can expect it to be junk.

    You asked me for a charger...well I have a 15A Victron lemon now, and an absorption fridge...can't do it to you. They're junk. I'll send you the donedeal links in the Spring when I flog them...but I don't recommend them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,364 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    What’s wrong with the Victron MPPTs?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    They're built by accountants not engineers. They spend all the R&D money on pdfs and promo.

    The temperature sensor is onboard and measures it's own heatsinks (doesn't work at all).
    The efficiency is poor.
    The charge termination is ~90% SOC

    As far as I have tried (quite a lot of products) MorningStar is the only charger that gets the battery electrolyte to specific gravity 1.28.
    Most of the rest call it a day at 1.26 which causes premature aging and sulphation.

    Impossible to know if you're rockin' sealed batteries.

    That 15A charger I have is 12.5A max after derating in the first 5 minutes of charge due to operating temperatures (MorningStar hold rated up to 40°C ambient with remote temp. sensing). No programmability.

    I also have a Victron BMV, the display is too small to read (it's a battery "monitor" ffs) and the blue backlight looks shyte. Takes 15 button presses to enable the backlight (same again to turn off) despite being automotive standard size (no trigger for backlight). The Ah counting calibration is rough and needs intervention. They use UTP cable for high vibration applications and put the + feed 3mm from the main vessel ground...asking for trouble.

    They solder the input fuse of their small inverters. Then omit any mention of life-harm protection in the manual (correct eathing proceedure and RCD implementation) because that would make it look complicated and unattractive. The waveform (not bad by standards) is distorted.

    I have some of their batteries too, I was looking at the charge parameters and they might as well not bother the envelope is ± 0.5v which means they don't know or couldn't be bothered.

    Their hardware is cheap with a high fail rate.
    It's all marketing and no substance.
    They walk a line of pricepoint and familiarity.

    Cheap chargers cost batteries.

    I've never replaced a battery on a MorningStar.

    The whole you must charge a lead battery fully every week thing is bollox. If you have a real charger once a month is fine, I've been doing it for years.
    They're also defaming lead because they make more from li-ion. Their presentations are a loada cobblers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    So just for the power aspect alone, some of the prices for this stuff is owie expensive. I have a charger in the old van, I must pull it out and post a photo for you to review.

    I know I'll need an inverter and, depending on the alternator a charge control module

    I'm not against spending money to build the van the "right way" but I also need to balance this and the impending paint job with the fact that this will be a van that gets used a few times a year.

    I'd love for every aspect of it to be perfect - but reality also looms.

    To go back to the fridge issue for a moment, and while I've not removed the old fridge to inspect it as of yet I've thought long and hard about using it again or not.

    If I were to run a modern fridge, and notwithstanding an inverter, would something like this be workable / efficient in the van?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I'm missing an after photo, but all of the external plastics that are fitted to the van have been painted black, after a coat of plastic primer.

    Here's the before:
    IMG-20201002-151928.jpg


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