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Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 2,163 Mod ✭✭✭✭L1m1tless


    Hi all, Where's good to buy T Molding from thats fairly reasonable priced.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    L1m1tless wrote: »
    Hi all, Where's good to buy T Molding from thats fairly reasonable priced.

    https://www.t-molding.com
    Shipping can be a bit costly.

    Otherwise :
    http://www.arcadeworlduk.com/categories/Arcade-Parts/T-Molding/


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭Maragenie


    Well dudes I have an Atomiswave Sammy Candy Cab machine, everything was fine and dandy until we transported it to another location, now the monitor seems to randomly wrap/shift over to the left hand side of the screen, a lil bang on the side of the case seemed to help straighten it up but that trick has now passed.

    I have read it could be a dry/crack solder joint. My next question is how do I get this sorted and if any of you know someone that can help?

    A sin having this thing parked up, a sin.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,351 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    There's a guy over on arcade otaku called Grantspain. He's based in the UK and you can send a chassis off to him to have it repaired for really decent prices.


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭Maragenie


    Excellent I will follow that lead up.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,351 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    He's sorted loads of chassis for folks around these parts. I had a completely borked one that he not only brought back to life, but gave it a complete once over and the picture looks stunning.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Yep sorted two monitors for me.
    Very nice guy, extremely helpful to everyone on every website.

    Goes by Gunblade on the forums Jammaplus / Arcade Otaku / Ukvac


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,056 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Before sending the chassis anywhere check that all the wires are properly connected, maybe one came loose during transport (which is what happened when I got mine).


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    Before sending the chassis anywhere check that all the wires are properly connected, maybe one came loose during transport (which is what happened when I got mine).

    Good point, some pictures so we might spot something would be good.


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Yea.check the remote board


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Can someone recommend a soldering iron and kit etc, wanna get a good one but lots of options, desoldering would be helpful too.


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Can someone recommend a soldering iron and kit etc, wanna get a good one but lots of options, desoldering would be helpful too.

    price range?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Antex XS25 is good for the majority of jobs you'll be tackling, try and get one with a silicone lead if possible.


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    when it comes to desoldering the main thing is practice,then more practice !
    especially if your doing ICs
    Desoldering stations are not magic at all.They can make life a bit easier in some cases but wont make you a pro overnight.
    Flux,flux and more flux.
    get the solder wick with flux and add more flux to it with a paint brush,
    then add more flux to the pad!
    you'll need IPA to clean up your work too ;)

    -edit
    did i say flux?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,526 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    India Pale Ale?
    Isn't that the stuff Sparks drinks?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    when it comes to desoldering the main thing is practice,then more practice !
    especially if your doing ICs
    Desoldering stations are not magic at all.They can make life a bit easier in some cases but wont make you a pro overnight.
    Flux,flux and more flux.
    get the solder wick with flux and add more flux to it with a paint brush,
    then add more flux to the pad!
    you'll need IPA to clean up your work too ;)

    -edit
    did i say flux?

    So from your post im guessing theres flux involved.

    Also Last Bandit Antex XS25, i have one of those, maybe more tips needed.
    Was willing to spend 50-100 but i see some really cheap stuff and some really expensive stuff.


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭Maragenie


    I have got onto Grant and we are going about trying to sort out the problem, if I was to send him the chassis for repair what kind of Bill in total would I be facing?

    He is indeed a sound fella.

    BTW I just found this crowd...

    http://limerickcomputers.ie/store/home/archade-machine-repair/

    Could be epic!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Maragenie wrote: »
    I have got onto Grant and we are going about trying to sort out the problem, if I was to send him the chassis for repair what kind of Bill in total would I be facing?

    He is indeed a sound fella.

    BTW I just found this crowd...

    http://limerickcomputers.ie/store/home/archade-machine-repair/

    Could be epic!

    Could be €50-€100


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,942 ✭✭✭Doge


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Can someone recommend a soldering iron and kit etc, wanna get a good one but lots of options, desoldering would be helpful too.

    As for soldering the Hakko FX-888 is the pedigree of soldering stations.

    You can order it from Dancap, the only UK distributor of Hakko products.

    http://www.dancap.co.uk/soldering/fx888D.html

    Must be done by email though a their website is like something from 1995. :p

    Its £89.

    I have to say though I find the chinese clones of the old Hakko 936 very pwoerful, im planning on buying genuine hakko tips now though to use with mine.

    You can slso get the 936 clone style soldering stations with a desoldering iron attached also.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,942 ✭✭✭Doge


    As for desoldering stations these are the ones myself and The Last Bandit Used, only difference is the brand name they're both OEM.

    http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384

    http://ie.farnell.com/proskit-industries/ss-331bc-f/desoldering-station-60w-240v-eu/dp/2320603

    They're great but take up a fair bit of room on the desk.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,717 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Yep they are big and noisy but work very well, until you break the glass on the gun and have to order a new one :(

    For SMD work though I use a hot air station but recently tried out Chipquik repairing a MVS and was very impressed with it - expensive stuff though..


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭Maragenie


    eddhorse wrote: »
    Could be €50-€100


    Shur Jaysus I'd have no problem with that. Anyone know if it's a dodgy job whipping out the chassis?


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Maragenie wrote: »
    Shur Jaysus I'd have no problem with that. Anyone know if it's a dodgy job whipping out the chassis?

    Loads of guides online.
    Its very straight forward.
    people make a big deal out of it but its not .
    as long as you follow the guide

    edit-
    I think i paid him 70e last time.use parcel motel !


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭Maragenie


    Will I have to discharge the monitor? I haven't turned it on in days.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Maragenie wrote: »
    Will I have to discharge the monitor? I haven't turned it on in days.

    Do it regardless, just so you know it's done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Definitely discharge the monitor just in case, its a big capacitor holding a very big charge.
    People have been thrown across rooms from it and I think it was Grant himself that got a broken arm from the charge jolting his arm off the monitor neck. Not to scare you or anything.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,780 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Doge wrote: »
    As for desoldering stations these are the ones myself and The Last Bandit Used, only difference is the brand name they're both OEM.

    http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00672/desoldering-station-uk-eu-plug/dp/SD01384

    http://ie.farnell.com/proskit-industries/ss-331bc-f/desoldering-station-60w-240v-eu/dp/2320603

    They're great but take up a fair bit of room on the desk.

    Thanks for the tips, will defo check them out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Maragenie wrote: »
    I have got onto Grant and we are going about trying to sort out the problem, if I was to send him the chassis for repair what kind of Bill in total would I be facing?

    I only recently had the exact same chassis repaired by him. I sent the chaos over via parcel morel. 15 Euro.
    His repair, parts and postage back cost 75 sterling.

    So you're looking at about €115 assuming you need some standard parts.

    Those chassis have auto discharge circuitry. I just lash the chassis out but at the same time I'm not grabbing on to capacitors for the fun of it. I generally disconnect the anode cap first and touch the metal clips off the inside of the cab just to be safe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭Maragenie


    I only recently had the exact same chassis repaired by him. I sent the chaos over via parcel morel. 15 Euro.
    His repair, parts and postage back cost 75 sterling.

    So you're looking at about €115 assuming you need some standard parts.

    Those chassis have auto discharge circuitry. I just lash the chassis out but at the same time I'm not grabbing on to capacitors for the fun of it. I generally disconnect the anode cap first and touch the metal clips off the inside of the cab just to be safe.


    Oh man I will be bricking it, but aside from the discharge is it just like pulling a motherboard out of a PC?

    One more thing, lets say from the day you posted it to him, how long before you got it back?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,919 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Yeah. Once the anode cap unsorted just a case of unplugging a few cables and unscrewing the chassis from the cab.

    Feel free to message me if you need help.


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