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Turbo trainer/rollers

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    #92
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,438 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    MojoMaker wrote: »
    Optical HR is a waste of space basically.

    I know! Just didn’t think it would be that bad!!


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    #93
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,438 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    lissard wrote: »
    Sounds way too complicated, I get all of my Zwift rides automatically uploaded to Garmin Connect in the following way:
    - Connect your Garmin Connect to a Strava Profile
    - Connect Strava to Zwift

    Everything is then shared provided you have a Strava profile.

    Nothing complicated about it at all. As I said i just wanted to see what the training affect was.

    I have the exact same setup. All I did tonight was turn on indoor bike activity on Fenix watch.

    Anyway, won’t be doing that again. Would like to have training affect but which is a pity. I think there is a way to combine both files to get training affect into your zwift activity on connect. Just not sure or haven’t really looked into it


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    #94
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,268 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Power is less subject to variables than heart rate. Calories burned by heart rate also requires the zones to be set correctly.

    Fwiw, I find zwift understates calories compared to the kj/ work figure. I'm not really sure why, as I think kj = calories is generally accepted as pretty accurate.

    Fwiw 2, I only really find wrist heart rate inaccurate on the bike, and more particularly if I'm on the rivet. It's fine commuting, family spins, running, walking etc.


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    #95
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    I've been using my tacx gallaxia rollers for an hour a day, 6 days a week, for the past three weeks and following my own training plan with high speed cadence and then alternating with high gear "power" work as resistance training. All going well and no mishaps, although I still do it in a doorway just in case I go off kilter!

    Anyways, my query is this, I saw a YouTube video yesterday where it said that the bike's front hub should be positioned behind the centreline of the front roller? This is contrary to what I read before, (and what it says on Tacx's website where it tells you to measure from the front hub to the rear one and this gives you the recommended length to which you set the rollers up), which is that the front hub should be over the centre of the front roller. However the youtube video yesterday said that by positioning the front hub over the centre of the front roller makes the bike "squirrelley" which is how I find it tbh as after three weeks of using the rollers, I wouldn't attempt to ride no handed like I've seen some do online. Even moving my hand positions on the bars takes careful consideration as the bike can get very unstable, very quickly even though I'm normally a "smooth" cyclist when out on the road and can ride one handed no problem.

    So if anyone on here is a regular user of rollers, do you have your front hub positioned over the centreline of the front roller or behind it?

    Here's the piece that makes me doubt that I've set the rollers up wrong by positioning my front hub directly above the centreline of the front roller (even though that's what Tacx advise!)
    https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/knowledge/skills/sportives-ridesmart/article/izn20141126-How-to-ride-the-rollers-0


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    #96
    TooObvious
    Registered Users Posts: 294 ✭✭TooObvious


    I use my rollers with the hub very much over the centre of the front drum. I am toying with moving the cylinder forward a smidge to see if it makes much difference. Cycling one handed, taking a bottle from the water cage, various rubbing and scratching are no problem at the moment. No handed would be a push, but I'm sure would be easier if I changed the drum position - so I'll be doing that tonight and let you all know how I get on.

    I do think there is an element of personal preference involved as well.


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    #97
    MangleBadger
    Registered Users Posts: 493 ✭✭MangleBadger


    I think this question came up recently in another thread. And the poster moved the roller out and found it much more stable


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    #98
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Just checked Tacx's instruction manual and my bike is "between" two of their recommended positions, i.e. 980-1000 and 1000-1020. My bike measures exactly 1000mms from the front hub centre to the rear hub centre. So at the moment the front hub is directly above the centre of the front roller.


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    #99
    eeeee
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,820 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    I go hub over hub (centre of drum).
    Find it grand, as poster above single handed, single legged, get drinks, change music, no handed (but not in public!).
    You just need to get used to them.


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    #100
    fat bloke
    Registered Users Posts: 5,813 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    Don't mind them middle-of-nowhere, not a banister in sight, track-y show offs. :D

    If you want to follow the voyage of roller self-discovery of a poorly coordinated, talentless trout then click below.

    I'm going to kick out the roller one notch more and see how that works in terms of allowing me to pedal out of the saddle more easily, which I still can't do with any efficacy. But moving it forward immediately allowed me to pedal no-hands, and I can do higher cadence stuff without the bike threatening to surge forward and breach the rollers altogether.



    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116103472&postcount=8948


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116104982&postcount=8950


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116109505&postcount=8951


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    #101
    a_squirrelman
    Registered Users Posts: 604 ✭✭✭a_squirrelman


    I only have my rollers a few days now so excuse me if this is a dumb question or maybe it's all in my head.
    But it feels like it's easier to cycle in the highest gear, when I lower the gears I'm finding it hard to keep going.
    Is it a case that you need to work hard at the beginning to get some rhythm and then it gets easier?
    Altogether I've only been on them 45 mins or so so far, I feel like I get way more wrecked than on the road.


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    #102
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    a_squirrelman wrote: »
    I only have my rollers a few days now so excuse me if this is a dumb question or maybe it's all in my head.
    But it feels like it's easier to cycle in the highest gear, when I lower the gears I'm finding it hard to keep going.
    Is it a case that you need to work hard at the beginning to get some rhythm and then it gets easier?
    Altogether I've only been on them 45 mins or so so far, I feel like I get way more wrecked than on the road.

    The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked mate!

    As a relative newbie myself to rollers, I find that I need to have a fast cadence to keep upright and stable. You can't cycle slowly on rollers or you'll lose balance. Think of it as like a coin that's made to spin on a table surface, when it spins fast, it stays upright but as it loses speed, it starts to wobble and eventually falls over. Same with cycling on rollers. There are three options available to you here:
    1. A very fast cadence drill in a low gear. Tiring and tricky as you must keep the wheels spinning fast
    2. Put the bike in a high gear for more "resistance" and not so fast cadence, but as the wheels will be spinning fast from the high gear, you'll be stable
    3. Cycle in a medium to high gear at a cadence sufficient to keep you stable.

    I mix the three up for the hour I spend on the rollers each day. I find the low gear high cadence to be very tiring and the one that gets my heart rate up the highest according to my heart rate monitor. The high gear is the next most tiring while the cycling at a steady rate in a medium gear is what I call my "rest" period even though my cycling computer says I'm doing 45kph (I know, I'll take that with a bit of salt as there's no road, wind or hill resistance).

    And like you, I find it way more tiring than being out on the road. I find I sweat buckets as there's no wind to cool me. I bought a fan to help cool me but also had to get a sweat band for my head to stop salty sweat stinging my eyes (it works well but it does be sodden with sweat at the end of the hour on the rollers). Still, its keeping me fit and I can help the kids with their homework while cycling indoors.


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    #103
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    fat bloke wrote: »
    Don't mind them middle-of-nowhere, not a banister in sight, track-y show offs. :D

    If you want to follow the voyage of roller self-discovery of a poorly coordinated, talentless trout then click below.

    I'm going to kick out the roller one notch more and see how that works in terms of allowing me to pedal out of the saddle more easily, which I still can't do with any efficacy. But moving it forward immediately allowed me to pedal no-hands, and I can do higher cadence stuff without the bike threatening to surge forward and breach the rollers altogether.



    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116103472&postcount=8948


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116104982&postcount=8950


    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=116109505&postcount=8951

    Thanks for that mate. Appreciate it a lot. I was doing a high cadence workout yesterday and I had this fear that the front wheel was going to hop off the roller and I'd go flying forward and through the wall into next door's kitchen like a looney tune cartoon. I know I shouldn't have been looking down at the front wheel but I couldn't help but notice (as I was down in the drops) that the front hub was inching ever so slightly forward due to my legs spinning the cranks so fast. As its already balanced directly over the middle of the front roller, it wouldn't take much to literally "put me over the edge"! What type of rollers do you have btw? I followed the recommended set up for the Tacx Gallaxia rollers I have to the letter but there's no way I'd call myself stable on the bike when on the rollers. While I'm not falling off the edge or even need the doorframe to save me, I need total concentration for even moving my hands from the tops to the hoods to the drops, or even when shifting my weight on the saddle or else I'll get a serious dose of the wobbles. When I see youtube videos of guys cycling no hands or out of the saddle (which I'd love to do as my ass gets incredibly numb from being in the one position for an hour), it makes me doubt I'm doing it right even though I haven't fallen off the rollers since my third attempt on day one three weeks ago. I'm going to extend the rollers today and see if it helps. One question though......does this make it harder to cycle as the front wheel is "pushing into the roller" as opposed to sitting on top of it?


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    #104
    a_squirrelman
    Registered Users Posts: 604 ✭✭✭a_squirrelman


    D13exile wrote: »
    The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked mate!

    As a relative newbie myself to rollers, I find that I need to have a fast cadence to keep upright and stable. You can't cycle slowly on rollers or you'll lose balance. Think of it as like a coin that's made to spin on a table surface, when it spins fast, it stays upright but as it loses speed, it starts to wobble and eventually falls over. Same with cycling on rollers. There are three options available to you here:
    1. A very fast cadence drill in a low gear. Tiring and tricky as you must keep the wheels spinning fast
    2. Put the bike in a high gear for more "resistance" and not so fast cadence, but as the wheels will be spinning fast from the high gear, you'll be stable
    3. Cycle in a medium to high gear at a cadence sufficient to keep you stable.

    I mix the three up for the hour I spend on the rollers each day. I find the low gear high cadence to be very tiring and the one that gets my heart rate up the highest according to my heart rate monitor. The high gear is the next most tiring while the cycling at a steady rate in a medium gear is what I call my "rest" period even though my cycling computer says I'm doing 45kph (I know, I'll take that with a bit of salt as there's no road, wind or hill resistance).

    And like you, I find it way more tiring than being out on the road. I find I sweat buckets as there's no wind to cool me. I bought a fan to help cool me but also had to get a sweat band for my head to stop salty sweat stinging my eyes (it works well but it does be sodden with sweat at the end of the hour on the rollers). Still, its keeping me fit and I can help the kids with their homework while cycling indoors.


    Cheers D13.
    I'll give a middle gear a shot today, it doesn't help that my bike is ancient with gears on the downtube so once I choose the gear I'm stuck with it unless I stop (or take a tumble).
    The mrs is sceptical about the whole thing so there'll be no giving up until I get the hang of it. :D


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    #105
    MangleBadger
    Registered Users Posts: 493 ✭✭MangleBadger


    Once you've mastered no hands this is the obvious next step...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aav7J_S9ji0


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    #106
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    a_squirrelman wrote: »
    Cheers D13.
    I'll give a middle gear a shot today, it doesn't help that my bike is ancient with gears on the downtube so once I choose the gear I'm stuck with it unless I stop (or take a tumble).
    The mrs is sceptical about the whole thing so there'll be no giving up until I get the hang of it. :D

    Gears on the downtube? Ah that brings back memories of my first "racer" in the mid 80's. It would be considered a classic now!

    You have my admiration mate. I don't think I'd have the confidence to reach down to change gear on your bike. I find it tricky enough on my shifters. Put the bike in cog 6 or 7 (if you have a ten speed like me) or 7 or 8 if its an 11 speed. It'll give you sufficient momentum to stay stable without tiring you too much. And keep it in a doorway as knowing there's nowhere to fall if you do wobble helps your confidence a lot. We noobs must stick together!!!:D


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    #107
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    MangleBadger wrote: »
    Once you've mastered no hands this is the obvious next step...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aav7J_S9ji0

    Oh thanks a bunch mate!. Now I truly feel inadequate: D

    I do notice however, that her front hub is not positioned directly over the centreline of the front roller and there I would consider that "cheating" (my excuse and I'm sticking to it!)


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    #108
    a_squirrelman
    Registered Users Posts: 604 ✭✭✭a_squirrelman


    D13exile wrote: »
    Gears on the downtube? Ah that brings back memories of my first "racer" in the mid 80's. It would be considered a classic now!

    You have my admiration mate. I don't think I'd have the confidence to reach down to change gear on your bike. I find it tricky enough on my shifters. Put the bike in cog 6 or 7 (if you have a ten speed like me) or 7 or 8 if its an 11 speed. It'll give you sufficient momentum to stay stable without tiring you too much. And keep it in a doorway as knowing there's nowhere to fall if you do wobble helps your confidence a lot. We noobs must stick together!!!:D


    Yeah I'm saving for a basic road bike, this one is best used for trips to the shops :pac:
    Thanks for the tips!


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    #109
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    Moved the front roller position so that the bike's front hub is now an inch (or 2.54cm to you young 'uns :) ) behind the centreline of the front roller. Did an hour on the rollers then at an average of 45kph according to the bike computer (I'm going to be sooooooooo disappointed when I eventually go back on the road and my speed is back in the mid '30s :) ). Was it any steadier? Tbh, I don't know. I've been managing to stay on the rollers just fine (if a little twitchy when moving hand position) the way they were. With the front roller pushed out a little bit, I didn't see any massive improvement, like I won't be cycling no hands anytime soon on them. Maybe I'll push the front roller out another inch and see what happens then, although the front hub will definitely be over the "back slope" of the front roller at that point.


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    #110
    eeeee
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,820 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    You can definitely go slowly on rollers. The reason I think you're feeling unsteady in a lower gear is cos it's a harder to balance in a lighter gear but it's just practice. You'll get there. It's good for you!

    On the axle placement, I feel like my bike is bumping up to the rollers when it's a bit behind them, it feels like you're rocking the bike on them if that makes sense?
    Plus that bit of instability from a hub over hub makes you use your core and develop better skills.

    Every roller session I do has a plan - always intervals, clear, timed. I do it to cadence and use gears for difficulty. I'd wholeheartedly recommend a structured session rather than jumping on and seeing how you go. Also mess with your balance during your warm down, take a bottle from your bottle cage, try one legged, out it into a big gear and try no handed etc. You're more relaxed and used to it during the warm down.


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    #111
    lennymc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    Can anyone recommend a good tablet/laptop holder for a bike?
    thanks


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    #112
    D13exile
    Registered Users Posts: 728 ✭✭✭D13exile


    lennymc wrote: »
    Can anyone recommend a good tablet/laptop holder for a bike?
    thanks

    Mantel cycles have this one (out of stock now but due back in a few weeks). I've bought from this Dutch company before and they're excellent to deal with

    https://www.mantel.com/ie/tacx-handlebar-holder-for-tablets


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    #113
    fat bloke
    Registered Users Posts: 5,813 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    https://cyclingtips.com/2021/01/outdoor-cycling-legend-sean-kelly-launches-indoor-cycling-screen-mounts-on-kickstarter/


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    #114
    lennymc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    fat bloke wrote: »
    https://cyclingtips.com/2021/01/outdoor-cycling-legend-sean-kelly-launches-indoor-cycling-screen-mounts-on-kickstarter/

    yeah, looks good, but 50% of the funding, so far, and it probably wouldn't be here next week.... :)

    I'll probably go with the tacx one, it looks fine for what i need it for (couple of weeks turbo indoors, cos it's cold in the shed!! LOL Whatever happened to HTFU


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    #115
    joey100
    Registered Users Posts: 3,421 ✭✭✭joey100


    Sheet music stands work well, won't be attached to the bike though, but can be bit cheaper than a dedicated tablet stand for the bike.


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    #116
    fat bloke
    Registered Users Posts: 5,813 ✭✭✭fat bloke


    lennymc wrote: »
    yeah, looks good, but 50% of the funding, so far, and it probably wouldn't be here next week.... :)

    I'll probably go with the tacx one, it looks fine for what i need it for (couple of weeks turbo indoors, cos it's cold in the shed!! LOL Whatever happened to HTFU

    Tacx supplies seem low everywhere but it's definitely a good price if you get your hands on one.
    joey100 wrote: »
    Sheet music stands work well, won't be attached to the bike though, but can be bit cheaper than a dedicated tablet stand for the bike.

    I tried the sheet music stand option and... based on my own experience I wouldn't recommend one. They're awfully flimsy and I've knocked it over more times than I can count, pulled it off via the headphones cable or charger cable. Also you can't really have it in front of you because the front wheel is in the way so it has to be to one side and not in your natural field of view.


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    #117
    lennymc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    stock of the tacx looks to be an issue alright. I might have to try an el cheapo tablet holder somewhere and a tri bar extension.


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    #118
    dinneenp
    Registered Users Posts: 8,099 ✭✭✭dinneenp


    lennymc wrote: »
    stock of the tacx looks to be an issue alright. I might have to try an el cheapo tablet holder somewhere and a tri bar extension.

    Tacx Flux 2 in stock for €799 here


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    #119
    lennymc
    Registered Users Posts: 6,458 ✭✭✭lennymc


    dinneenp wrote: »
    Tacx Flux 2 in stock for €799 here

    cheers for that - i'm ok for a turbo, looking for the tablet mount.


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    #120
    devonp
    Registered Users Posts: 799 ✭✭✭devonp


    Hi


    so got myself a set of Elite Arion Rollers...apart from the steep learning curve (and i'm still learning ) i got a speed sensor (Garmin 2 dual) how can i send this data to my Mac in real time to monitor my speed/time/distance ?
    i have an old Garmin edge 810, its works in that it picks up the speed sensor and HRM buti dont want to be looking down at the stem :eek: and want to set up the Mac with its bigger screen. Also i will have 1 months free sub to Elite trainer app


    cheers


    tmrw looks wet i'll give it another go


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    #121
    devonp
    Registered Users Posts: 799 ✭✭✭devonp


    got going on the Arion rollers today...first time
    in a door frame, with runners


    26km 34kph avg 46mins


    some differences btw garmin connect and strava numbers ?



    its sweaty work indoor cycling :P


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