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Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer DIY Kit (220 x 220 x 250mm Printing Size) for €176.48

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,657 ✭✭✭Zimmerframe


    Anyone used the laser "yoke" ?


    https://youtu.be/L2mjFVSvmho


    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,071 ✭✭✭el Fenomeno


    You get a very small amount. Enough to print a few level checks but you wouldn't be printing much with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,496 ✭✭✭quarryman


    Lucifer wrote: »
    I have done a few upgrades. Have a pi with octoprint and camera. I got the creality silent board. I have upgraded the bed springs which helps keep it level without needing regular adjustment. They were only about 3 euro. I have an all metal extruder but have not got around to fitting it. Have capricorn tubing ordered and a cheap all metal hotend ordered.

    People who upgraded to the bltouch or equivalent, how often were you leveling the bed before getting this? I don't do it too often.

    Anyone who is using octoprint, did you all cover the 5v pin on the USB cable to stop random serial disconnects?


    Just to echo this, I can't emphasise enough the benefit of replacing the springs does. Before I replaced them I seemed to be levelling the plate between every print. Best bang for buck on upgrade.


    In order of benefit for me on upgrades:


    1. Springs
    2. Octopi
    3. Silent motherboard
    4. Quiet fans
    5. Camera


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    Where is the best place to order filament, i looked on amazon etc loads of different types, what is best


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    i've heard pretty good things about both 3djake and prusa, so have a couple of rolls of each on their way. got some sunlu from amazon and not sure i'd buy again, it's okay but it's all tangled on the roll and a couple of prints have failed as its jammed and the filament snapped at the extruder. have a roll of prima orange and that's better, but took a while to dial it in before it worked well

    am about to start printing some figures and masks so hoping the prusa/3djake are decent. both are ordered direct from them


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  • Registered Users Posts: 28,043 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey




  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    jap gt wrote: »
    Where is the best place to order filament, i looked on amazon etc loads of different types, what is best

    My favourite from Amazon is AMZ3D https://www.amazon.co.uk/1-75mm-White-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZO8O3O/
    It's sometimes on sale for £16.99-£19. Nice winding and never had a problem printing with it.
    I've tried Sunlu pla+ but had a horrible time trying to get the layers to adhere together properly. Also had problems with Eryone filament.

    I've ordered some from 3dJake before. Got a few rolls of Fillamentum which is a bit on the expensive side but it is very high quality and comes in amazing colours. I recently got some Lumberjack wood filament from them but I'm yet to try it.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    quarryman wrote: »
    Just to echo this, I can't emphasise enough the benefit of replacing the springs does. Before I replaced them I seemed to be levelling the plate between every print. Best bang for buck on upgrade.


    In order of benefit for me on upgrades:


    1. Springs
    2. Octopi
    3. Silent motherboard
    4. Quiet fans
    5. Camera


    think i'd put the silent motherboard and quiet fans as top 2, but i'd add a set of feeler guages, no more messing around with sheets of paper, get a guage with a 0.1mm thickness and it makes levelling so much easier, no more judging how tightly paper is gripping.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    think i'd put the silent motherboard and quiet fans as top 2, but i'd add a set of feeler guages, no more messing around with sheets of paper, get a guage with a 0.1mm thickness and it makes levelling so much easier, no more judging how tightly paper is gripping.

    Where is the best place to buy these ad ons


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    i bought the skr mini v2 from amazon uk bundled with a bl touch i haven't installed yet, and teh fans from amazon de


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  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    Does anyone have any recommendations for a quieter part cooling fan?
    Its the only loud part left


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    if you are willing to print up a new shroud you can use a 40x10 from noctua or the like and move to dual side cooling, the hero me allows dual noctuas i'm pretty sure


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,301 ✭✭✭Harcrid


    bryan06 wrote: »
    Does anyone have any recommendations for a quieter part cooling fan?
    Its the only loud part left

    I’m in the same boat. Installed the silent board today which has made a huge difference to the sound. The downside now is the fans so I’ll be looking to address that next.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    Harcrid wrote: »
    I’m in the same boat. Installed the silent board today which has made a huge difference to the sound. The downside now is the fans so I’ll be looking to address that next.

    for the hot end fan i installed the noctua 40x20 and it's working very well

    haven't touched the part fan, think mine is pretty quiet

    the psu fan though i am considering, that's a lot of noise on mine when it spins up


  • Registered Users Posts: 48 bryan06


    mossym wrote: »
    for the hot end fan i installed the noctua 40x20 and it's working very well

    haven't touched the part fan, think mine is pretty quiet

    the psu fan though i am considering, that's a lot of noise on mine when it spins up

    For the psu I printed this case and used a 80mm noctua. Don't notice any noise from it now. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    bryan06 wrote: »
    For the psu I printed this case and used a 80mm noctua. Don't notice any noise from it now. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389

    cheers, i'd seen that one alright. I'l planning to build an enclosure for the printer from aluminium profile and plexiglass (have seen the ikea table based enclosure, but it's wood, so combustible) and will likely mount the power supply external, so waiting to see how i tackle that before printing any case for it


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    this was a good alignment and adhesion test

    eLWmWqGl.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭Mr Bloat


    I just want to think the OP and everyone who supplied info on this thread. I received delivery of an Ender 3 Pro 2 weeks ago and it has barely been off since I built it. I've since fitted a silent board and upgraded the springs and levelling nuts, as well as printing off improvements for the printer itself.

    Definitely one of the best purchases I've ever made!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    Finally got around to putting this together today, it came with a 2 pin plug, fitted an adaptor and it powered up, turned it off and no way can I get it to come back on, any ideas


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    did you check the voltage on the back is set to 220 if it came with the wrong plug?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    did you check the voltage on the back is set to 220 if it came with the wrong plug?

    Yup set to 220, I connected it to computer and it powers up but the switch won't turn it on or off, I assume I have a fault power unit


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    it doesn't need to be hooked up to a pc, when you say it powers up but the switch won't turn it on or off, what starts up if the switch won't turn it on?

    there is an issue with the usb port powering up some of the printer control board when the printer is turned off, and then it acts funny when turning it on.

    if you switch on the power supply with no usb connected, does anything happen? any fans spin or anything?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    it doesn't need to be hooked up to a pc, when you say it powers up but the switch won't turn it on or off, what starts up if the switch won't turn it on?

    there is an issue with the usb port powering up some of the printer control board when the printer is turned off, and then it acts funny when turning it on.

    if you switch on the power supply with no usb connected, does anything happen? any fans spin or anything?
    It powers on when I connect a usb charger (just happend to be from a computer), but it's on no matter what way the switch is positioned, nothing happens when I switch on from power supply, no fan etc just worked the first time and nothing since


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,955 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    jap gt wrote: »
    It powers on when I connect a usb charger (just happend to be from a computer), but it's on no matter what way the switch is positioned, nothing happens when I switch on from power supply, no fan etc just worked the first time and nothing since

    Sounds like your power supply is either faulty or there is a loose connection.

    I think the ender 3 power supply fan only kicks in when needed (im not sure on that). I know for sure the hotend fan turns on straight away normally so maybe the fan you heard first time was this.

    There is a XT60 connector (a chunky yellow connector) between the psu and the mainboard, maybe just double check that is connected ok first.

    I would also take a look that there is no loose cable in the mainboard. (Plug out the power supply when you are doing this!)

    The mainboard turning on from being plugged into USB is considered a design flaw by most, higher end machines such a Prussa do not this. At least in this case it proves that your mainboard is working!


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    you don't need a usb charger. the control board takes its power from the main power supply via the xt60 connector that WMN mentioned. when things don't work, bring it back to the simplest form, disconnect that usb cable, make sure the yellow connector is connected, and power it on via the switch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    you don't need a usb charger. the control board takes its power from the main power supply via the xt60 connector that WMN mentioned. when things don't work, bring it back to the simplest form, disconnect that usb cable, make sure the yellow connector is connected, and power it on via the switch.

    I know I don't need the usb but currently it's the only way it powers on, the switch will not power it on everything connected correctly and have double checked everything, I'm leaning towards a faulty power supply to say it worked perfect the first time but would not power up a second time


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    jap gt wrote: »
    I know I don't need the usb but currently it's the only way it powers on, the switch will not power it on everything connected correctly and have double checked everything, I'm leaning towards a faulty power supply to say it worked perfect the first time but would not power up a second time

    cool, thats the bit i wasn't sure. sounds like a faulty power supply alright.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    cool, thats the bit i wasn't sure. sounds like a faulty power supply alright.

    I know there are plenty upgrades available for the Ender 3 am I better off sticking with stock or is there an upgrade available


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,766 Mod ✭✭✭✭mossym


    you brought the pro right? it has the meanwell psu, which is the better version and the one you want. I'd pop the cover off and make sure it is a meanwell, but if you are going to buy one yourself it's the meanwell you want


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,896 ✭✭✭jap gt


    mossym wrote: »
    you brought the pro right? it has the meanwell psu, which is the better version and the one you want. I'd pop the cover off and make sure it is a meanwell, but if you are going to buy one yourself it's the meanwell you want

    Thanks for the advice cheers


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