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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    hoping to buy an evil the following frame in the next month or so. Wondering what i can get away fork wise on it, i know people run 140mm forks with it but im wondering how badly a dual position 160/130 will sit with it? Am i as well off to just put a 140mm fork on it?

    Bike late to this but here goes:

    FYI Dual position forks generally not considered too good, assuming you're talking about Talas. Basic rule is that unless you really know what you are doing, stick to the length forks the bike was make for. With that said, it won't do any harm, so you could try it to see how it feels, but if I were buying a nice frame like that, I'd want the right forks on it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭ec18


    steamsey wrote: »
    if you have v brake type set up - pretty sure you can work away with whatever v brake levers you want

    If you have hydraulic / disc brakes:
    One thing to keep in mind is that your Shimano system will be filled with mineral oil. Other systems could be Dot 4 or 5.1 used in Avid, Hope, Formula and various other brakes. Easiest thing would be to stick to Shimano assuming your calipers are Shimano too. If you really had to mix in a non Shimano lever I'm sure you could but prob not worth it.

    Forgive me if I'm overexplaining but you will also prob need to bleed the system if replacing levers although 1/100 chance you'll get away with it.

    http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hydraulic-brakes-can-i-mix-up-the-makes-of-calipers-and-levers

    Great thanks, at the moment the system is all shimano, so I should just be able to add the new lever and re attach the hydraulic hose? then bleed for sanitys sake :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    ec18 wrote: »
    Great thanks, at the moment the system is all shimano, so I should just be able to add the new lever and re attach the hydraulic hose? then bleed for sanitys sake :)

    Yeah it's pretty straight forward to put a new lever on assuming you are not cutting the hose length etc.I'm comfortable bleeding Shimano systems so if I was installing a new lever, and brakes hadn't been bled in a while, I'd take the opportunity to bleed. If I was less comfortable bleeding the brakes, I'd take a lot of care with the new lever and hope for the best.


  • Registered Users Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    crosstownk wrote: »
    I’m looking to replace a bottom bracket on a mates bike. It’s a Shimano BB71 press fit. We’ll go halves on the tools but I’m unsure which tools I need. Will the one in the link below do the job.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/x-tools-press-fit-bottom-bracket-installer/rp-prod155423

    Also will any removal tool do?

    I haven’t tackled press fit before. Any help appreciated.
    It's fairly straightforward, it's literally as described, just fits in by being pushed.

    I have done it the wrong way plenty of times in my youth and suffered no malfunctions, but that doesn't mean it's recommended :)

    Correct fitting is more important than correct removal. The key is to ensure that it's done evenly. To remove you can get a piece of wood and gently tap out the cups from the inside - move all the way around the cup so that it comes out evenly rather than one side at a time. The purpose of using wood is to prevent damage to the frame; lots of people will use large screwdrivers or pieces of pipe, but that's just asking for trouble imo.

    There's a guide here which shows the process with an appropriate tool, but it's obvious that it's really just a case of banging the cups out of the frame.

    Getting the new cups/bearings in is really all about getting them in evenly. Again, in the past I've done this with a piece of wood and a rubber mallet, but I think €30 for the right tool is money well spent.


  • Registered Users Posts: 471 ✭✭dermabrasion


    Fox Suspension: Ive a 7yr old Cannondale RZ One Forty Fox 32 Float RL 140, 1.5 suspension. The rebound is really really slow.
    Are these serviceable? and is it worth it?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,366 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Fox Suspension: Ive a 7yr old Cannondale RZ One Forty Fox 32 Float RL 140, 1.5 suspension. The rebound is really really slow.
    Are these serviceable? and is it worth it?

    It should be serviceable. Worth it? Depends how much use it gets but it is a good fork so would be worth doing. Has it ever been serviced?

    Mad Elk used to service Fox they seem to be BOS now but I'd say they still have what#'s required for a basic service. https://madelkcycles.com/


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭ec18


    went to change pedals today but the drive side pedal just spins in the crank and doesn't tighten/loosen...any ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    ec18 wrote: »
    went to change pedals today but the drive side pedal just spins in the crank and doesn't tighten/loosen...any ideas?

    Crank arm is toast (threads stripped) :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭ec18


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Crank arm is toast (threads stripped) :(

    would there be anyway to salvage the pedals?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    ec18 wrote: »
    Type 17 wrote: »
    Crank arm is toast (threads stripped) :(

    would there be anyway to salvage the pedals?

    Hold the crank steady (asisstant or bench vice) and unscrew the pedal spindle whilst pulling hard on the pedal body, to get the spindle to engage with the wreckage of the crank arm’s threads and actually unscrew.
    If that doesn’t work, cut/grind away the crank arm to release the pedal.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,249 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Looking at power meter options, and specifically crank options (probably the watteam). Both bikes are shimano bottom brackets, compact 11 speed cranksets (one lower end shimano, one ultegra). Moving the cranksets between bikes - would it be as simple as a straight swap. One bike is a BB71 the other BB86?

    I've tried working out the Bottom bracket standards myself, but just confusing myself and just need a straight answer which google isn't giving me! I'm learning the maintenance side, but bottom bracket differences looks beyond me at this point!


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,249 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Just giving this a bit of a bump for help...

    If I'm right about it being a straight swap between RS500 and 6800 cranksets (both compact, and I think the bb match), am I missing something in thinking that if I was swapping left only cranks between bikes (say for a stages/ 4iii left only), there isn't a whole extra to just swapping the entire crankset (for dual leg options)?

    More wear on the crankset that's used most, but am I creating anymore trouble for myself down the line?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭ec18


    If I want do I need to get a new set of cranks do i need to get a set that are compatible with the bottom bracket or or bottom bracket and cranks?

    and a second question what considerations do I need to look at if I wanted to upgrade the brakes with larger disc rotors?


  • Registered Users Posts: 68,317 ✭✭✭✭seamus


    The bottom bracket stuff is annoying alright. If you want to keep your current bottom bracket, then your cranks need to be compatible with it.

    There's a lot of cross-compatibility, especially between Shimano and SRAM, but they won't really tell you about it and will "officially" say that you should only use SRAM/Shimano parts together.

    Bottom brackets are fairly cheap though, so if you like a particular pair of cranks, then just get the bottom bracket that goes with them.

    Of course, you then need to get the correct bottom bracket for your frame...


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,988 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    sounds easier just to buy a new bike if you ask me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,700 ✭✭✭ec18


    sounds easier just to buy a new bike if you ask me.

    Yup it would be but I'm using the bike in question as a learning bike to upgrade myself to learn and try things on. My main bike is a different one :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    Can someone explain Tyres -- I see alot of people talking tubulars etc on TT bikes.. I dont see the advantage though? No inner tube but if you get a flat your goosed?

    And do Carbon deep rims have a shelf life with the braking contact area wearing down over time?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,988 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Milk_Tray wrote: »
    And do Carbon deep rims have a shelf life with the braking contact area wearing down over time?
    Metal rims do too though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,596 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    If my winter bike is running 11 speed 11 25 and my turbo has an 11 28 on it can I use the same bike on the turbo or will it need indexing and/or damage the new chain?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,988 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    possibly need indexing, i guess? i think a similar question came up in one of those ask gcn tech videos in the last week or two.

    edit: 2:08 in:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Another issue with two cassettes/one chain might be uneven wear:

    New chains skip on excessively worn cassettes.
    Worn chains wear down new cassettes quickly.

    With those points in mind, it's a good idea to change the chain early enough to be able to keep the cassette(s) going with the new chain.

    In your case, you should keep a particular eye on your chain wear and change your chain regularly, as you'll have two (relatively expensive, 11-speed) cassettes on the go.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,466 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Anyone good with Cantilever brakes at all? They are seriously grating (in fact literally sometimes) and ruining any enjoyment for cycling.

    The daily, bad weather, touring steed as Tektro Oryx cantis. Bad weather of late has seen me change the pads way more than usual and more than I would have expected. I think they are often rubbing off the rims, or not returning properly as I'm often fiddling with them on the move if I hear something.

    I noticed the link cable is often not going back properly, and is catching in the mudguards. Not sure how to adjust this at all.

    Also to note, rear wheel spacing is for 135mm I think, but I'm using a 130 mm hub. Could that little extra pinch on the seatstays also give rise to this?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Sounds like the pads are wearing, and are creeping down the rim (normal), causing the formation of a lip along their bottom edge, which is getting stuck under the rim. This can also happen if the rim has a deep enough wear-line on the brake track.

    Is the straddle cable a single piece of cable with a triangular yoke, or is the yoke a round shape with half of the straddle cable attached to it? If it's the first type, you can alter the angle of the straddle cable (lower gives more power, but too low fouls the mudguards, etc).

    I doubt that 5mm in the axle spacing will affect the brakes, but if the newer (130mm hub) wheel rim is a lot wider, it could mean the straddle cable is now too low, as the arms would be swung back further.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,466 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Type 17 wrote: »
    Sounds like the pads are wearing, and are creeping down the rim (normal), causing the formation of a lip along their bottom edge, which is getting stuck under the rim. This can also happen if the rim has a deep enough wear-line on the brake track.

    Doesn't seem to be this so much, though it was an issue before. That was a straightforward pad swap. The pad on the right hand side is definitely worn down more than the others, and seems to be the one rubbing, but it's even and no lip.
    Is the straddle cable a single piece of cable with a triangular yoke, or is the yoke a round shape with half of the straddle cable attached to it? If it's the first type, you can alter the angle of the straddle cable (lower gives more power, but too low fouls the mudguards, etc).

    It's one of the round one. I lubed up the cables, having not thought of that and that seems a little better, but still it seems to still get caught or hit the mudguard.

    I think I could cut a few mm off the cable housing to get the straddle yoke higher. I can live with lower stopping power if it means no break rub, far less adustment. It's the slow going bike.
    I doubt that 5mm in the axle spacing will affect the brakes, but if the newer (130mm hub) wheel rim is a lot wider, it could mean the straddle cable is now too low, as the arms would be swung back further.

    It's a Mavic A319 rim, so not a narrow rim by any means. I guess any squeeze on the stays is on the lower part anyway.


    I know there's nothing wrong with Canti's. Decades of use, millions of users show that. I'm just crap at adjusting them and any video I watch seems to leave me bamboozled.

    I'm using V-Brake pads rather than canti pads too, so assumed that might have a minor difference in toe in etc.

    Must just get better at maintenance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Weepsie wrote: »
    I think I could cut a few mm off the cable housing to get the straddle yoke higher. I can live with lower stopping power if it means no break rub, far less adustment. It's the slow going bike.

    I know there's nothing wrong with Canti's. Decades of use, millions of users show that. I'm just crap at adjusting them and any video I watch seems to leave me bamboozled.

    I'm using V-Brake pads rather than canti pads too, so assumed that might have a minor difference in toe in etc.

    To get the round-type yoke higher, you'll need to add some cable housing to the side that covers half of the straddle cable.

    The simplest way to adjust canti's is to tighten the barrel adjusters all the way, so the pads so are touching the rim, and then adjust the pads (with some toe-in if required) and then loosen the barrel adjusters to regain the correct cable-travel.

    You're lucky to be using V-Brake pads - two of my bikes have the older stud-type pads, which are a real pain to set up.
    Additionally, many cheaper cantilever sets (not mine) don't even have adjuster screws for the return-spring tensions, and so are almost impossible to centre.


  • Posts: 0 Mira Creamy Viper


    dahat wrote: »
    If my winter bike is running 11 speed 11 25 and my turbo has an 11 28 on it can I use the same bike on the turbo or will it need indexing and/or damage the new chain?

    They are both 11 speed cassettes so I don't see a problem other than the cog size.

    Basically I presume stay in the same gears which are equal or lower to what's on the bike because the chain will overstretch the rear derailleur if you if you go too high up the range.

    I stand to be corrected though.

    BTW I use a 10 speed bike in the turbo with some old wheel with a cassette that was from a Claris bike, not sure either 7 or 8 speed I think. I've never actually looked at it. It shifts fine but I can't use its easiest (biggest) cog on the rear......Other than that its all oxo....


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,339 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Any recommendations for mudguards for a 29er?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,408 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    going buying this cube frame in the next week or two to build it up.
    I'm thinking of putting a coil shock into it with some offset bushings and a 150mm fork to slacken it out a little bit. as long as i find a coil shock thats 200x57 i should be grand right?
    was thinking something like this RS vivid although ive no idea of what strength spring to purchase.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,466 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Anyone recommend some functional, not too expensive jockey wheels for a 10 speed SRAM rival RD? Mine seemed to go kaput earlier.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 221 ✭✭Milk_Tray


    do upgraded tyres make much of a difference? Hearing a few people mentioning grand prix 4000's and they are a 'must have',... are they really worth getting a set ?


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