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Aidan's tip of the week

  • 16-07-2010 11:52am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭


    following from the Alko-chassis thread about greasing them , Peasant gave me the go-ahead to post a "weekly tip" , here's the first in hopefully a regular series of simple things I've picked up in the workshop. We start with the basics...


    Most motorhomes I see are pretty clean , but still there's the few dirty ones out there . Crud , and mud , and sediment , if not shifted , builds up in the seams , seals and joints of the MH . Over time , this turns to a mossy type of growth , and can actually push the seams apart . And in winter , it holds moisture in the joint , which when it freezes expands even further , and rapidly makes the problem worse .
    Regular cleaning , with a good Car-Wash type brush will prevent this . On the roof , where it can be worst , something a bit stiffer , like a sweeping brush , might be better . And don't let anyone tell you you can't use a Power Washer... You Can , as long as you exercise a bit of common sense .
    Don't direct the high pressure spray into the edges of windows , vents , seams etc .

    A bit of car-wash shampoo helps soften grime , or the likes of Fenwickes Caravan cleaner , or my own personal favourite , Traffic Film Remover (from the likes of Concept) .

    And god forbid , if there is a dodgy seal or leak lurking secretly , if you wash the camper regularly , chances are you'll find it! Sure it's a nuisance , but better to find it and get it fixed than to leave it lurking , and quietly destroying the timberwork...

    After the effort , your 'van will look better , and keep the smile on your face .


«13456713

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,418 ✭✭✭loobylou


    The outer skin of my camper has a "dimpled" type finish. The "valleys" between the dimples hold dirt that at this stage is unshiftable. This gives the whole camper a very dull, grey look.
    I have tried all types of cleaner but nothing seems to work. Have tried using a nailbrush and plenty of elbow grease to no effect.
    Has anyone got any suggestions?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Traffic Film Remover , or Cif cream on a nail brush .


  • Registered Users Posts: 217 ✭✭coolvale


    any tips on getting into the middle of the roof. what is the possibility of doing damage by walking on it ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    invest in a proper carwash type brush , with an extendable handle . If in any doubt about the roof , work off of a scaffold or ladder . bit Awkward , but better safe than sorry .

    Most factory builts are fine to walk on , in the area behind the Overcab section , but if in doubt , keep close to the edges . Also make sure you've no pebbles or stones trapped in the grips of your shoes .


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    A lot of customers tell me they leave the Camper plugged into main at home permanently , between trips away . The thiking being that it keeps the battery topped up , and the fridge cold , maybe also a little Dimplex type heater turned on to keep it aired out . Good idea you'd think? No , it seems.
    From what I've seen , even though the charging system should tail off to a tiny charge , all batteries prefer to go through cycles of charging and discharging . Whereas constantly charging , even at a trickle , will eventually cook the battery cells . I've seen it with Dry Cell , Calcium , Gel , Acid , Leisure and ordinary types , none of them seem to like it . They'd be fine for a few months , maybe a year , then they seem to deteriorate .

    Also , fridges..... I've discussed it with the tech guys in Dometic/Electrolux , and Thetford , and they say Motorhome fridges aren't designed to be left on permanently . Sure they'll work , but the life span of them is a lot less than a typical household fridge . So being on constantly means they may last only a few years , rather than a decade .

    What we find works fine is to plug in the camper for a day or two a week , it's plenty to keep a healthy battery charged , and to keep a fridge in good working order . Also in these times of income worries , you'll lower your ESB bill a wee bit .

    If you do like to keep a heater working over the winter , see if you can disable the charger , or else run an extension lead through the window for it .

    Hope that is useful to ye.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 217 ✭✭coolvale


    what about solar panels. some campers have them connected all the time to keep the leisure battery up ?
    your advise is welcome.
    thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Old Timer


    coolvale wrote: »
    what about solar panels. some campers have them connected all the time to keep the leisure battery up ?
    your advise is welcome.
    thanks

    If you cover the solar panel or panels with some heavy duty black plastic that should stop them working.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,943 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    coolvale wrote: »
    what about solar panels. some campers have them connected all the time to keep the leisure battery up ?
    your advise is welcome.
    thanks

    If you have a good solar charge regulator it will switch off the charging when the battery nears full.

    Instead of pluging in all the time, plug in a day or so before you go and freeze a few bottles of water at home then put them in the fridge as well to get it cold then stock up before you go with food and drinks from your own fridge so it's cold.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Solar panels don't charge constantly folks.... what about when it gets dark?

    I like them for that reason .


  • Registered Users Posts: 222 ✭✭defike


    I intend to put up solar panel to charge and a dehumidifier on a timer maybe 2 hours a day to discharge the battery.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 17,819 ✭✭✭✭peasant


    Aidan's tips now new and improved ...condensed and stickied :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    defike wrote: »
    I intend to put up solar panel to charge and a dehumidifier on a timer maybe 2 hours a day to discharge the battery.

    Have you a 12v Dehumidifier?


  • Registered Users Posts: 222 ✭✭defike


    Argos sell a small 220v one which is actually 12v when you remove the transformer and rectifier.


  • Registered Users Posts: 80 ✭✭NCG


    defike wrote: »
    Argos sell a small 220v one which is actually 12v when you remove the transformer and rectifier.

    Could you tell me which one? They have a few and obviously don't get into the voltage details on the website. Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 222 ✭✭defike


    I can't tell you the exact name as i gave the one i had to my brother for his van and he sold it last year with the dehumidifer in it .He tells me it was something like Challenger Midi.
    I was going to buy this one and as Argos offer 14 day money back guarantee I could easily change for the next one if its not the 12v one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Tip No.3..

    Gas today... Anyone with screw on connections to the gas bottle , if it's a Threaded nut with a rubber seal/washer in it , it should be only a little more than hand-tight . Put away that vise-grips!:D Over tightening damages the seal , causes it to break up . Also , check your flexible pipe , if you're lucky enough to have a "normal" Kosangas type regulator , a lot of people have pipes that are perished and cracked , and don't realise it . The standard flexi pipe you get in the hardware is supposed to be changed every few years . It's normally dated .


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Do you know where the camper gets it's main 12v feed from the battery? On Ducatos pre 2002 it's usually beside the engine battery , from 03-06 under the passenger seat . This should be a fused link , often 2 separate one , one for the charging , one for the fridge 12v . Well worth looking at , and making sure that they're not corroded , melted , or loose . They carry lary amounts of current , often enough to overheat , and melt the plastic around them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Are ye still interested in these tips folks , or am I boring ye?


  • Registered Users Posts: 460 ✭✭Malta1


    Keep them going.....we may not like what you say (eg this thing about having to wash the van :p )....but it has to be done

    Knowledge is no load to carry


  • Registered Users Posts: 217 ✭✭coolvale


    by all means keep em coming.please. we never know it all.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 214 ✭✭demoreino


    Keep them coming.
    They're very good.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,233 ✭✭✭TigerTim


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    Do you know where the camper gets it's main 12v feed from the battery? On Ducatos pre 2002 it's usually beside the engine battery , from 03-06 under the passenger seat . This should be a fused link , often 2 separate one , one for the charging , one for the fridge 12v . Well worth looking at , and making sure that they're not corroded , melted , or loose . They carry lary amounts of current , often enough to overheat , and melt the plastic around them.

    Yep, you're right Aidan. On my 1998 Ducato/Hymer, which I sold earlier this year, the fuse holder near the engine battery melted & I had to replace it with a motor factor replacement fuse holder..

    Tim


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Aerosol tins of spray grease are your best friend! Gear linkages on Ducato's , all the moving parts of the awnings , the electric Step , the wiper linkages , the bonnet hinges and latch.....anything that moves , a shot of grease makes all the difference . Regularly giving any of them a quick spray , means they all work freely . It's especially noticeable on the Ducato gear linkages , on the '88-'94s and the '03-to current models .

    Even a press catch , or toilet catch with the top and bottom clips too . If you find the grease is "dirty" , a smear of Vaseline.


  • Registered Users Posts: 43 allthatGlitters


    Please keep the tips coming :p Even though we have had the camper over 2 years now, its all a learning curve - thanks Aidan


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    You know , it's funny... I work on campers every day , yet to think up useful tips is hard!


    When parking your motorhome up for the winter/long periods , empty the waste tank , fresh tank , toilet tank (if you have one) , drain the boiler , then turn on all the taps for a few seconds to purge the water pipes . Then , turn off the pump , leaving the taps in the On position . This helps prevent them bursting in frost .


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,709 ✭✭✭meercat


    aidan m m,keep the tips coming.and all your other helpful replies.thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,819 ✭✭✭✭peasant


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    You know , it's funny... I work on campers every day , yet to think up useful tips is hard!

    I can change the heading from week to month (or year :P), if you like :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 159 ✭✭wonderworm


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    You know , it's funny... I work on campers every day , yet to think up useful tips is hard!


    When parking your motorhome up for the winter/long periods , empty the waste tank , fresh tank , toilet tank (if you have one) , drain the boiler , then turn on all the taps for a few seconds to purge the water pipes . Then , turn off the pump , leaving the taps in the On position . This helps prevent them bursting in frost .

    park the van up on leveller ramps, it stops the water from ponding on the roof!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    wonderworm wrote: »
    park the van up on leveller ramps, it stops the water from ponding on the roof!

    That's exactly what I do ( a few 6' x 2's nailed together into a stepped ramp gets a nice slope on the roof!!). A good tip.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭stapeler


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    You know , it's funny... I work on campers every day , yet to think up useful tips is hard!


    When parking your motorhome up for the winter/long periods , empty the waste tank , fresh tank , toilet tank (if you have one) , drain the boiler , then turn on all the taps for a few seconds to purge the water pipes . Then , turn off the pump , leaving the taps in the On position . This helps prevent them bursting in frost .

    On the parking for the winter subject, I leave the MH in gear with the handbreak off. Found that keeping the handbreak pulled causes it to stick a bit. Any thoughts?


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