Labour Saving and General Guntering

bk1991 · 22-07-2009 12:28am

Sam Kade wrote: »

This is a bale handler that I made last week. I also have old paddles to fit it, for stacking wrapped bales.

great idea i had to move three bales for neigbout today which were wraped and had to mess with lengerth of tubler bar over dung fork
what are the measurements for ur bale spike id love make one save time moveing bales and the like plus i have make spike for straw why not make one for both wraped and standard bales
what are width ,height,distance between spikes
its just 5 sections of box section steel ???? what size 4x4inch ?5mm thick
roughly what cost is it over new one ???

Sam Kade · 22-07-2009 1:42am

bk1991 wrote: »

great idea i had to move three bales for neigbout today which were wraped and had to mess with lengerth of tubler bar over dung fork
what are the measurements for ur bale spike id love make one save time moveing bales and the like plus i have make spike for straw why not make one for both wraped and standard bales
what are width ,height,distance between spikes
its just 5 sections of box section steel ???? what size 4x4inch ?5mm thick
roughly what cost is it over new one ???

It's 3x3inchx6mm box, height is 18 inches top to bottom width is roughly 50 inches. 3 sections cut 1 foot long and 2 sections cut 50 inches long, flat plate welded on ends to finish it off. Width between tines is 34.5 inches from centre to centre, which is a little too close for bales that have been left out for a while it would be better to have them 3-4 inches wider. I made it for welger rp12 bales, which are smaller than standard bales. I got the hooks made to fit my loader by the local engineer, I got a mechanic to burn out holes for tines the rest I did myself. The metal cost €66, hooks cost €50, tines cost €108, bushes for tines cost €15.8, half box of welding rods €11, burn holes €10, hamerite paint €5. Total cost was roughly €266 not including paddles. You could also pick up a second-hand bale squeezer for around that price, I don't have a 3rd valve on my loader so that was the reason I made this one.

Bitten & Hisses · 22-07-2009 10:30am

Tidy job there Sam. Well done.

bk1991 · 22-07-2009 12:37pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

It's 3x3inchx6mm box, height is 18 inches top to bottom width is roughly 50 inches. 3 sections cut 1 foot long and 2 sections cut 50 inches long, flat plate welded on ends to finish it off. Width between tines is 34.5 inches from centre to centre, which is a little too close for bales that have been left out for a while it would be better to have them 3-4 inches wider. I made it for welger rp12 bales, which are smaller than standard bales. I got the hooks made to fit my loader by the local engineer, I got a mechanic to burn out holes for tines the rest I did myself. The metal cost €66, hooks cost €50, tines cost €108, bushes for tines cost €15.8, half box of welding rods €11, burn holes €10, hamerite paint €5. Total cost was roughly €266 not including paddles. You could also pick up a second-hand bale squeezer for around that price, I don't have a 3rd valve on my loader so that was the reason I made this one.

cheers for info

Sam Kade · 22-07-2009 2:21pm

Thanks

The cost of a new one is around €500 so you are saving about half that.

bk1991 · 22-07-2009 4:11pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

Thanks

The cost of a new one is around €500 so you are saving about half that.

wheres the flat plat for the brackets is it ?????
i was toying with idea of makeing hydralic one but the one u made there looks good plus i am only starting wedling so dont want anything too compliciated where did u get the paddles for urs what length the tines .u have two little bits welder to hold on the paddles aswell havent u ????
have u used it for wraped bales yet ?
i move up to 900bales a year with just back bale handler so would save some time and deisel if i had one on front aswell

have u much welding experience ???????

Sam Kade · 22-07-2009 9:53pm

I made the paddles 10 years ago for another handler.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/3747127018_bd7c877bdf.jpg?v=0

I have a big washer welded onto the paddle and a nut welded to the handler it fits inside the washer on the bolt. The reason the big nut is on the bolt is because the smallest bolt I could get was 1 inch. The reason I made the paddles tapered was to make it easier to stack bales 3 high with them.

I drew in 80 bales on Saturday with it; the bales had been in the field for a while so I had to turn the bales upside down to get the handler under them. The tines are 28" from the frame to the tip. The plate for the brackets is 3/4" thick.

I learned basic welding in secondary school.

bk1991 · 22-07-2009 11:59pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

I made the paddles 10 years ago for another handler.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3439/3747127018_bd7c877bdf.jpg?v=0

I have a big washer welded onto the paddle and a nut welded to the handler it fits inside the washer on the bolt. The reason the big nut is on the bolt is because the smallest bolt I could get was 1 inch. The reason I made the paddles tapered was to make it easier to stack bales 3 high with them.

I drew in 80 bales on Saturday with it; the bales had been in the field for a while so I had to turn the bales upside down to get the handler under them. The tines are 28" from the frame to the tip. The plate for the brackets is 3/4" thick.

I learned basic welding in secondary school.

nice job overall the padles would be hard to make bending the steal does the nushes extend more foward that normal to let the padles roll on them ?...does anyone else make padle bale handlers inireland apart from
this one from cashels http://www.cashels.net/Handlers.htm
i could try get spikes and padles from them but prob expensive save makeing them
would be hard to rip bales with paddles compared to normal bale lifter
that could also be used for moveing palets

bk1991

Sam Kade · 23-07-2009 12:31am

bk1991 wrote: »

nice job overall the padles would be hard to make bending the steal does the nushes extend more foward that normal to let the padles roll on them ?...does anyone else make padle bale handlers inireland apart from
this one from cashels http://www.cashels.net/Handlers.htm
i could try get spikes and padles from them but prob expensive save makeing them
would be hard to rip bales with paddles compared to normal bale lifter
that could also be used for moveing palets

bk1991

Yes I left the bushes extend out as far as possible so the paddles could swivel on them.

I priced paddles 10 years ago from an engineering company that made them; he wanted £120 for 2 paddles like these back then. When I heard the price I decided to make them myself. I hired out a hydraulic pipe bender from a local plant hire which cost £14/day and I bought 2" galv blueband pipe (it has to be blueband for bending) for £6, I already had the pipe to go over the tines which is the next biggest pipe after 2". The big pipe is in the centre of the paddle that goes over the tine. I had to cut a V out of the front bend to make a point. I made it in an evening after milking total cost £20. You could get a local engineer to make them up for you. The engineer I went to 10 years ago thought I was desperate for them so he gave a price to suit him at least that was the impression I got from him.

bk1991 · 23-07-2009 12:45am

Sam Kade wrote: »

Yes I left the bushes extend out as far as possible so the paddles could swivel on them.

I priced paddles 10 years ago from an engineering company that made them; he wanted £120 for 2 paddles like these back then. When I heard the price I decided to make them myself. I hired out a hydraulic pipe bender from a local plant hire which cost £14/day and I bought 2" galv blueband pipe (it has to be blueband for bending) for £6, I already had the pipe to go over the tines which is the next biggest pipe after 2". The big pipe is in the centre of the paddle that goes over the tine. I had to cut a V out of the front bend to make a point. I made it in an evening after milking total cost £20. You could get a local engineer to make them up for you. The engineer I went to 10 years ago thought I was desperate for them so he gave a price to suit him at least that was the impression I got from him.

yea was thinking of getting an engineer to make em looking at cashels ones there diped which would ad more on to them roughly what is the measurements of urs 2inch pipe in middle 5 or 6 mm thick and the 2 inch for sides would u recomend tapered like urs or the ones on cashels which arnt tapered
i am going make a start on it this week anyway mad to get some practice with the new welder :Dthe barckets would be cheeper from engineer than dealer aswell

Sam Kade · 24-07-2009 7:19pm

The full length of them is 43" the width at the widest part is 15". The middle pipe is 2 1/4" outside diameter the bent pipes are 2" outside diameter. The thickness of the pipes is the standard thickness. Tapered would be best for stacking bales but then again I don't know the width of cashels paddles, if they were less than 10" wide they might work for stacking as well.

bk1991 · 25-07-2009 1:03am

Sam Kade wrote: »

The full length of them is 43" the width at the widest part is 15". The middle pipe is 2 1/4" outside diameter the bent pipes are 2" outside diameter. The thickness of the pipes is the standard thickness. Tapered would be best for stacking bales but then again I don't know the width of cashels paddles, if they were less than 10" wide they might work for stacking as well.

cheers for the information better put it to use now will get a few quotes on paddles from cashels and majior

vanderbadger · 28-07-2009 8:31am

not as handy at the welding unfortunately but put my own calving camera system in place, bought the wireless gear pretty cheap on the internet, basically 3 wireless bridges, one on my brothers house, one on my house and one on the slatted shed, On the brothers house im connecting back into his broadband so that where I get my internet, on the slated shed Im connecting to an IP camera and then on my own house I just connect back into a wireless access point to provide me with wireless inside the house, basically I can take the laptop up to the room if i want to keep an eye on a cow, just open up a webpage with the IP address of the camera and take a look. Got qouted massive money by some of the guys in the journal to link slatted shed to house with camera, with my system i was able to incorporate brothers house also and get rid of that fcuking 3G broadband piece of sh1t. The wireless stuff i bought from a crowd in Greece, I think they were about 60 to 70 euro each, very easy to set up, antenna is build into device so you can actully cable tie them to downpipes or anything, the IP camera was about 200 euro, might cost more actually as I got it thru work, the only other thing I had to do was make long patch leads with cat5 cable to run from wireless bride to camer etc, again easy and cheap to do

bk1991 · 28-07-2009 11:03pm

got quote for the paddles 120 inc carraige
i was also told to use stone fork tines which are 39 inches long with heavy duty stone fork bushes

bk1991

Sam Kade · 29-07-2009 9:57am

bk1991 wrote: »

got quote for the paddles 120 inc carraige
i was also told to use stone fork tines which are 39 inches long with heavy duty stone fork bushes

bk1991

The tines I used are stone fork tines, which are the standard ones for round bales. The handler I made 10 years ago had lighter stone fork tines and that handler stacked 5000 bales for me and never failed. I was estimating that if I had to make new paddles now they would cost approx €60. Did you ask an engineer about making the paddles?

bk1991 · 29-07-2009 3:27pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

The tines I used are stone fork tines, which are the standard ones for round bales. The handler I made 10 years ago had lighter stone fork tines and that handler stacked 5000 bales for me and never failed. I was estimating that if I had to make new paddles now they would cost approx €60. Did you ask an engineer about making the paddles?

pricies so far
:39inch stone fork tines somewhere between 50 and 60 euro
:bushes 15 euro
brackets will be roughly 50
the paddles from rohan engerring in limrick are 120 inc vat and i think carrage will be 20 more

il make the frame and get the holes drilled for bushes and make up that for start then get the brackets on the sort paddles after

if i could get paddles made 42 inches long and 12 inches wide would that work if i got the holes bored and brackets made plus paddles made in same place it might not big as big a bill hopefully

but il need some design on paper or something

new bale handler is 500 €uro
but this is a bale handler for wraped bales ,wraped bale stacker,hay/straw bale handler ,stacker
pallett forks

thats 5 uses plus many more so if i could make it for under 320 which will be tight have loads of galvinised pipes lieing around anyway

bk1991

Sam Kade · 29-07-2009 10:25pm

Yes it should work out cheaper to get all the work done with the same engineering company. Paddles 42" long and 12" wide should work fine.

bk1991 · 30-07-2009 1:09am

Sam Kade wrote: »

Yes it should work out cheaper to get all the work done with the same engineering company. Paddles 42" long and 12" wide should work fine.

yea il have make a drawing of them for him to make them
am getting steel ,tines,bushes in morning and make a start on it

what loader is it on the brackets a far apart mine only 36in apart
have u used it much

bk1991

Sam Kade · 30-07-2009 9:34am

bk1991 wrote: »

yea il have make a drawing of them for him to make them
am getting steel ,tines,bushes in morning and make a start on it

what loader is it on the brackets a far apart mine only 36in apart
have u used it much

bk1991

I have a bomford 3510 loader the brackets are 46" apart. I only drew in and stacked 80 bales with it as the weather has silage making stopped.

bk1991 · 30-07-2009 2:48pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

I have a bomford 3510 loader the brackets are 46" apart. I only drew in and stacked 80 bales with it as the weather has silage making stopped.

yea bad weather alright

this is what my design is

top +bottom is 3x3 6mm thick 50 inchs long
sides are 3x3 6mm 12 inches

uprights in middle are 12 in long and 2 1/2inch box

so far costs

steel is 68€uro
tines +bushes is 141€uro

have get holes bored now tomorrow and see about brackets and paddles

bk1991

Sam Kade · 30-07-2009 10:31pm

You cut the box good and square did you cut it yourself? When you are welding them together you need to give them 2 or 3 runs to fill the gap. Don't forget to keep the tines more than 35 inches apart as mine are too close together at 34.5 inches.

bk1991 · 30-07-2009 11:51pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

You cut the box good and square did you cut it yourself? When you are welding them together you need to give them 2 or 3 runs to fill the gap. Don't forget to keep the tines more than 35 inches apart as mine are too close together at 34.5 inches.

wish i did cut them na got them cut when buying it ..would i need to grind a chanfer on the box as it is 6mm to get weld to penatrate ????

i was thinking of putting tines at 38" centers would that be too much
il make a start mabey tomorrow eveing as it is soposed to be raining asusual have more ideas for this apart from just bales more to come in future
cheers for the advice anyway

bk1991

Sam Kade · 01-08-2009 10:13am

Theres no need to cut a chamfer in the box for welding. 37 or 38 inch centers would be about right.

bk1991 · 01-08-2009 1:42pm

Sam Kade wrote: »

Theres no need to cut a chamfer in the box for welding. 37 or 38 inch centers would be about right.

got a 51mm hole saw so will bore the holes meself
will get pics of progress later

blue5000 · 02-08-2009 6:37pm

blue5000 wrote: »

that is neat, I've made a few things myself probably the best one is a woodburning stove from the back end of a fordson major. The wood goes in where the lift cover was, air goes in where the brakes were, and smoke goes out where the pto was. It took a year from getting the idea to having it in the lounge! All the photos of making it are before I got a digital camera, I'll scan them and put them up.

hope this works, photo of stove from major backend using pix.ie

pakalasa · 02-08-2009 10:12pm

How 'bout this;
Found it while browsing tru youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYTjLLo_8p4&feature=related

bk1991 · 02-08-2009 10:50pm

blue5000 wrote: »

hope this works, photo of stove from major backend using pix.ie

now that loks well u woulnt even know it was backend of tractor what excatly did u have do to make that

pakalasa · 03-08-2009 9:47am

blue5000 wrote: »

hope this works, photo of stove from major backend using pix.ie

Be careful with something like that - you could unwillingly create a lot of carbon monoxide - lethal........:eek:

Make sure that there are permanent inlets for air that can't be closed even with ashes etc..

blue5000 · 03-08-2009 1:06pm

I have to confess I bought the door (went into a stove shop with a tape measure). I had a flat cast iron panel from an old water tank and used it for the front and fire bed. CO problem is solved by leaving gearstick hole and brake pedal shaft holes open. At the bottom of the chimney(cast iron water pipe) there is a damper which can't be seen in photo. Hardest part was drilling and tapping cast iron for extra bolts. Anymore questions send me a PM

quietsailor · 08-08-2009 8:55pm

I'm sick of tripping over the strimmer when i go into the shed and it never seems to balance carefully in the corner - one tip and it's on the ground tangled in your legs. So I made a shelf that holds the strimmer motor as well as the oil and mixing cans used for the strimmer - that's on the left hand side of the photograph. I then used an old rain gutter bracket attached to a wall at right angles to the original shelf to support the strimming head end.

Sorry for the quality - it was taken with a camera phone, the yellow is a face guard hanging off the same bracket

Labour Saving and General Guntering

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