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Isolating hot water feed to kitchen sink

  • 18-03-2019 4:57pm
    #1
    Damiencm
    Closed Accounts Posts: 280 ✭✭


    Hi all,

    In the middle of removing kitchen sink as I type. Cold water turned off, no problem.

    But no tap/level underneath sink to turn off hot water feed. Definitely none!

    In the hot press, the first picture shows most of my options, the pipe with paint is warm and goes down into the floor. But I turn off the nearest level and water still flows (I waited several minutes but no slow down).

    Anyone any idea how I can stop the hot water feed to my kitchen??

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • #2
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,203 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Can you post the first image, but taking in the bottom of the cylinder also.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #3
    Damiencm
    Closed Accounts Posts: 280 ✭✭Damiencm


    1st picture is the left handside with pipes running floor to ceiling.

    2nd is righthand side

    Should have mentioned also that this is a 1st floor hot press


  • #4
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,203 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    This time you left out the top part of the tank, however I think I can follow them. Try turning off the valve immediately to the right of the painted pipe. If that works then good, if not turn it back where it was.

    There is always the possibility of operating the correct valve, but it being faulty as in not closing fully. Anyway try my suggestion.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • #5
    agusta
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    It looks to me to be the furthest in gate valve.The one nearest the pressure gauge


  • #6
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,203 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    agusta wrote: »
    It looks to me to be the furthest in gate valve.The one nearest the pressure gauge

    Could be. Btw that gauge is reading very low.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • #7
    agusta
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Wearb wrote: »
    Could be. Btw that gauge is reading very low.
    Looks like it.very observant and good eyesight.


  • #8
    Damiencm
    Closed Accounts Posts: 280 ✭✭Damiencm


    Thanks for all the advice. I'll try again the morning and report back


  • #9
    Damiencm
    Closed Accounts Posts: 280 ✭✭Damiencm


    It was a bit stiff but the red tap closest to the pressure gauge did the trick!

    Thanks all


  • #10
    CaptainCoPilot
    Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭CaptainCoPilot


    I get asked this all the time and I'm sure it gets searched here on boards quite often.

    In a traditional vented system like the OP has, you need to turn off the supply coming from the attic to the bottom of the cylinder. This feeds the cylinder where it is heated and the hot water is drawn from the top of the tank. As this also acts as an expansion, a valve can't be put on this side of the cylinder as it would be unsafe.

    You might need to run the hot tap for a short while to relieve the pressure as there is still a body of water in the cylinder.


  • #11
    Damiencm
    Closed Accounts Posts: 280 ✭✭Damiencm


    Resurecting this post so that I can use the pictures!!

    Since having a new kitchen and rads installed I am having a problem with hot water.

    We have had gas installers and plumbers messing around with the boiler during the works.

    Heating is working perfectly however the water in the taps is not getting ear as hot as it used to. We have a fairly new IDEAL boiler with 2zone heating and hot water control.

    I have moved the thermostat on the hot water tank to over 65c but no improvement.

    Could my problem be a fault thermostat or could a valve have been turned in error in the hot press?


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  • #12
    wiz569
    Registered Users Posts: 1,693 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Try turning the red valve in the second picture a couple of turns anti clockwise, see if that helps as that is a balancing valve between heating and hot water, the more open it is the quicker the hot water will heat, but the rads will be slower to heat and vice versa


  • #13
    Damiencm
    Closed Accounts Posts: 280 ✭✭Damiencm


    wiz569 wrote:
    Try turning the red valve in the second picture a couple of turns anti clockwise, see if that helps as that is a balancing valve between heating and hot water, the more open it is the quicker the hot water will heat, but the rads will be slower to heat and vice versa


    Will give this a try. Do u mean the picture that has only one red valve in shot? Thanks


  • #14
    wiz569
    Registered Users Posts: 1,693 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Damiencm wrote: »
    Will give this a try. Do u mean the picture that has only one red valve in shot? Thanks

    Yes m8 the one on the right hand side :)


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