'Bespoke' suit for wedding

MarcusFenix · 02-02-2017 9:23pm #1

Hey people!

I am getting married next year and want a suit that really looks good, trouble is I'm short and stocky (5'6", very muscular thighs and shoulders with soft middle). I've had a handful of suits in my life and they have all been off the rack. I've had the pants taken up but that's where the alterations finished.

However, I always find that tops tend to fit in one area and look bad in others, like if I get something to fit my chest /shoulders it generally will be too long. With pants if I get something to fit my thighs it will look to baggy on the lower leg.

I'm fairly clueless about fashion so could do with some advice.

Firstly, can anyone recommend a tailor within dublin/kildare area that really knows what they are doing?
I have read a good bit about how altering leg / shirt / jacket widths in the arms/legs can do a lot for my type of shape but any time I've brought that subject up I get blank stares.
I am asking here about a suit specifically but would love to find someone who I could go to on a regular basis with all my clothes.

Secondly, park the tailor option for now, if I were to go with a bespoke suit where would be the best place to go?

Keep in mind I know nothing about cut/cloth/weight so would really just be interested in getting the best fitting suit possible.

If it wasn't already clear I have no clue about fashion so any advice is greatly appreciated!:)

baby and crumble · 02-02-2017 10:25pm

Ok, well let's talk about getting an off-the-rack suit altered.

Your best bet is to find a suit that fits your shape as well as possible and then get it altered. You should try on lots of suits in a department store (different suit companies tend to cut their suits slightly differently). Try on slim fit, eegular fit, longs and shorts, the whole thing. "Short" jackets are not just shorter in the body but also cut more generously in the stomach area which might work well for you. Try and find somehwere that sells their suits as separates- if you've an unusual shape you'll find it easier to mix and match. Debenhams is great for this. My Dad swears by M&S as it's the onky place he can get jackets that fit him well- he's short with a big belly and a short jacket from there works great.

I've just had a suit altered in Fitz tailors on Abbey St- Ivan/Ivor (I'm not 100% sure of his name) is extremely good. There's only so much they can do, though. Shoulders are the key thing- I had to buy my jacket too big in the shoulders to fit everywhere else and while it looks very good, there's only so much he can do. You want to find a proper place- ie not a dry cleaners that does alterations.

As for bespoke, be mindful that this gets really expensive, really fast. I've seen some lovely suits come out of a place call "A Suit that Fits", based off Leeson St. I'm going with them for a bespoke suit for my wedding. Haven't started the process yet as mine isn't until November. You'd want to give at least 2 months, ideally 3 for the whole process. If you really want to push the boat out, Louis Copeland do amazing suits and sometimes have "bespoke sales" where they cut the cuts of bespoke suits for a weekend and if you get fitted then, it's way cheaper. But very good quality, obviously.

Speedsie · 03-02-2017 7:10pm

Michael Johnson in Tullow is regarded as one of the finest tailors in Ireland. He comes from generations of tailors. But it is an expensive and slow process. But you will have a suit for years, and one that can be relaxed as your body shape changes.

A bespoke suit can go down the years, a friend of mine wears a suit made by Michaels father for his grandfather. Michael made some minor alterations.

But it can be eye-wateringly expensive.

tatumkelly · 03-02-2017 7:16pm

A colleague had suits made by Mark and they looked so good that all the rest of the guys in the office were asking about him. He came into the office with samples and catered to all their price ranges (mid to super expensive).... he basically set up in our board room!

http://www.mypersonaltailor.ie/

TheAnalyst_ · 03-02-2017 7:19pm

You could get a full bespoke suit but I would make sure that its wearable for business or other formal events and not just a one day wonder.
Can you get proper bespoke in Ireland is a question though.

Stheno · 03-02-2017 7:21pm

My OH gets his suits sometimes in Tony Byrne in Malahide.

They are extremely good at identifying where the fit is not the best and having their tailor alter it.

His last suit the jacket was too long, the sleeves were too long, and the trousers too long (he's not the tallest guy in the world)

It was all pinned up for alteration and came back fitting very well.

MarcusFenix · 07-02-2017 11:22pm

Thanks for all the suggestions folks!

I have a good bit to digest as well there, I will look into the different options.

In terms of talking to a tailor, is there anything I should be able to ask or will a good one know what to alter without me asking?

PhoenixParker · 07-02-2017 11:27pm

Louis Copeland on Capel street.
They'll know where to alter it unless you want to tell them otherwise to go for a particular look.

Stheno · 08-02-2017 12:18am

MarcusFenix wrote: »

Thanks for all the suggestions folks!

I have a good bit to digest as well there, I will look into the different options.

In terms of talking to a tailor, is there anything I should be able to ask or will a good one know what to alter without me asking?

My Oh doesn't even talk to a tailor, he just goes into Tony Byrnes, and they can spend up to half an hour adjusting a suit to fit.

It's a gift good salespeople who sell mens suits have. I'd love to find the female equivalent

baby and crumble · 08-02-2017 10:33am

MarcusFenix wrote: »

In terms of talking to a tailor, is there anything I should be able to ask or will a good one know what to alter without me asking?

You should know roughly what kind of look you're going for. The tailor will usually just pin for the standard fit that most guys want- relatively trim but not too much, a half-break in the leg, about 1/4 inch shirt cuff showing. If that's not what you want (more or less of your shoe/ socks showing, more cuff, more accentuated waistline in the jacket) then say that. No harm in bringing in some pics of the kind of fit you want.

Articles of Style is a great site for inspiration- it was a general style blog that Dan had whilst training as a tailor. He now has his own business (US only I think) but still puts out a lot of articles about fit and styling. This one (about designing a suit for your body type) might be useful reading for you, OP. Have a look around at the likes of GQ, Esquire and fashion blogs. See what you like and don't like.

MarcusFenix · 08-02-2017 1:13pm

baby and crumble wrote: »

MarcusFenix wrote: »

In terms of talking to a tailor, is there anything I should be able to ask or will a good one know what to alter without me asking?

You should know roughly what kind of look you're going for. The tailor will usually just pin for the standard fit that most guys want- relatively trim but not too much, a half-break in the leg, about 1/4 inch shirt cuff showing. If that's not what you want (more or less of your shoe/ socks showing, more cuff, more accentuated waistline in the jacket) then say that. No harm in bringing in some pics of the kind of fit you want.

Articles of Style is a great site for inspiration- it was a general style blog that Dan had whilst training as a tailor. He now has his own business (US only I think) but still puts out a lot of articles about fit and styling. This one (about designing a suit for your body type) might be useful reading for you, OP. Have a look around at the likes of GQ, Esquire and fashion blogs. See what you like and don't like.

Thanks! and for the original response too.
Will check those out, what I have seen is to be clever about what I wear, monochrome and nothing chunky or mad patterning will make me look taller apparently!
I find most of those style mags and sites cater for average size guys, if not a little on the skinny side, so I immediately think "well that's not designed for me...keep walking!"

baby and crumble · 08-02-2017 2:53pm

MarcusFenix wrote: »

Thanks! and for the original response too.
Will check those out, what I have seen is to be clever about what I wear, monochrome and nothing chunky or mad patterning will make me look taller apparently!
I find most of those style mags and sites cater for average size guys, if not a little on the skinny side, so I immediately think "well that's not designed for me...keep walking!"

No worries. I know what you mean about the average sizes, but a lot of bloggers are coming up that are of varying sizes etc., and they break a lot of the "rules" and look awesome doing it. One of my favourite Instagrammers is The Big Fashion Guy. Instagram is great for inspiration.

Also, I just started working with Shirt By Hand to get custom fit shirts and OMG the difference is amazing. Highly recommended if you've odd proportions - as a woman who dresses in masculine clothes it can be hard for me to get shirts that have the construction I want but that fit my chest and stomach properly that then don't gape at my neck and have trailing sleeves!! Once they have your measurements and you're happy with the first shirt you can just keep ordering and they make them from scratch for you.

MarcusFenix · 09-02-2020 2:46pm

Back to update just in case anyone else is interested....

I did actually get a shirt from Shirt by Hand which fits really well and I would highly recommend using them! I got a casual fit (short enough to leave tucked out) but would go for the business fit in future as I don't really leave shirts tucked out.

For the suit I went with Louis Copeland on Wicklow Street and had it made to measure.

I am not very happy with the suit actually...

The problem I have with the trousers is that I was advised to get a low rise by the salesman / tailor. Having done some research in the meantime (Sartorial Talks, Gentlemen's Gazette amongst others) I now realise that this is having the complete opposite effect to that of what I wanted; making my torso look longer and my legs look shorter. This is unfortunately obvious in the pictures from my wedding day

. I would have expected they would have known not to do this.

I also wanted to wear braces / suspenders instead of a belt (for the reasons outlined in OP; short and wide so belt = bad!) and this low rise waist makes wearing them very uncomfortable and looks a bit weird. On top of this, the hem on the trousers is very scraggy on the inside and i've nearly put my toe through the stitching when putting the trousers on a few times ! For 1200 euro I would expect much higher quality.

I must say though, the fit on the leg is excellent as well as the overall fit on the jacket. I got a 3 piece but since i've put on a few kg since the big day, the waistcoat is temporarily out of action

If I could go back in time I would have asked for a high-rise trouser with a pleat at the front as I have a few pairs like this and they are so much more comfortable and look much better. I think I will actually ask them if they can put together a pair of trousers to that effect at some point because the trousers I have now are basically useless.

M

v638sg7k1a92bx · 21-02-2020 12:41am

Three options for men’s suits

1. Bespoke
2. Made to measure (MTM)
3. Off the rack

Unless you are prepared to make a trip to Savile Row forget about a bespoke suit. Minimum €3k and the trade doesn’t exist in Ireland anymore.

MTM is basically a fancier name for an off the rack suit only more expensive. You basically buy an off the rack suit which is then tailored to your size but as one poster already said, there is only so much they can do: take up the trousers, shorten the sleeves take in a few cm in the back. They cannot alter the shoulders or if they can you are better off buying a smaller jacket because altering shoulders in suit jackets is very difficult and expensive and only a very good tailor would be able to do this and they don’t exist in Ireland anymore.
Whether you buy a MTM or an off the rack suit you will always need to get a suit altered whatever suit you buy so there is no difference only a heftier price tag because they do the alterations in store and they make you come back a few times and the customer thinks they’re a big shot buying a “MTM” suit. A well know Dublin men’s store which has been mentioned here sell MTM suits, assuming they haven’t changed supplier they were selling Baumler suits with their logo on the inner lining, making a few alterations and calling it made to measure.

Final option is off the rack which is what most people buy and the least expensive.
Most men’s suit shops in Dublin have only a commercial knowledge of men’s haberdashery and commercial is putting it politely. 99% off off the rack suits are fused, made or sourced in China, which is not always a bad thing depending on the construction and the fabric, but most sales reps have no idea about the fabric, mill, construction, half canvas, full canvas or fused.
Do some research on Suit Supply https://eu.suitsupply.com/en_IE/home
No store in Ireland but you chat with them online, you will need to know your measurements, and you can get some suits sent to you with free returns. The fabric they use are from very reputable European mills, made in China but construction quality is good. Half canvas suits for €300 - €400 from some of the best European mills. The most comparable option to a similar suit in store would be a canali which is €1200.
You could also try pini Parma in Italy. I’ve never bought anything but apparently they are a step up in quality again and also a step up in price around €700.

'Bespoke' suit for wedding

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