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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K



    fairly close to what the PHPP calculated. if i upped my solar array by another 1.2kW it would bring the Energy Value down to zero.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭randombar


    Another installer doing up calculations at the moment recommending I upgrade my rads UGHHHH

    E.G. Master Bedroom 23.5 SQM using a heatloss figure of 1057.5 (I gave him our original BER of B1, waiting on heat loss survey)

    Current radiator is 1400

    What do people think?

    Obviously I don't want to go messing with floors etc. to force a 2m rad in, what are my options?



  • Registered Users Posts: 409 ✭✭Dozz


    @randombar I suppose for it to run at max efficiencies & COP that is what is required however you could ask him to design to a higher flow temperature and see if that makes a difference to your radiatior sizes.

    It will mean that your efficiencies are lower though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    Hi about a vertical radiator. You'd easily fit a vertical 2m rad in most bedrooms.

    Something like these > https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/radiators/vertical-radiators

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭randombar


    For the sake of the better efficiencies it would probably be worth it all right.

    Rads are under windows so would be limited by height but I could go 600 high maybe and narrow it down.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,702 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    option to move rad away from windows?

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭DC999


    Bedrooms normally run a cooler trmp than downstairs. And heat rises. So a lower heat upstairs is fine, no?

    Different story in main room ye sit in.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭randombar


    Not easily, had a look this evening a 600 rad.

    500x2000 = 600x1600 ish

    Also waiting on heat loss survey so hopefully figures might go down a bit.

    Triple panel looks good but coming out into the room a good bit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,702 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Are quotes from Northern Ireland far cheaper?

    😎



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  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    For heat pumps? I was quoted a similar price for a heat pump and cylinder by a local distributor in Cork. In the end I went with a supplier from Louth. Both were competitive compared to the quote I got from a supplier in Larne. That is supply only, my plumber is fitting.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,702 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    hadn't considered self ordering need a plumber and a spark though?

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    indeed. my plumber was happy for me to order it from the distributor. i got it for the same price he was quoted previously.

    i discussed the various brands out there and he personally recommended thermia as he had installed a number of them including at his brother and sisters homes respectively without the slightest issue. the spark ran the cabling for the thermostats, outdoor unit and cylinder. it ain't rocket science to these lads.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭randombar


    What kind of price are we talking for labour and documentation for grant etc?

    it doesn’t seem to be that big a job but I’m getting a couple of crazy prices for the labour.



  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    It depends on the make of unit. My outdoor and indoor units are thermia. According to the plumber they are a fairly simple design and easy to install as the cylinder is pre-plumbed. He advised against other named brands which I won't mention as they are difficult (he used more colourful language) to get at when a problem occurs or he has had to return to sort out warranty issues with them.

    When it comes to installing what the plumber has to do is run two 50mm (I think that's the diameter) pipes from the outdoor unit to the cylinder and connect the cylinder to the rads/UFH manifolds and mains. It isn't rocket science and doesn't take very long. Depends on location but my house took a couple of days max. The sparky has to run power from consumer unit to the outdoor unit, a thermostat cable to the outdoor unit and thermostat cabling throughout the house. He then needs to wire the cylinder.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 19,672 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    Basis some of the advice here and given we have a night rate i have set my samsung system to heat the water during the night (there was no timer set before). I have it on for 3 hours from 4am to 7am and then two hours from 6pm to 8pm in case anyone needs a late shower.

    Does that sound like enough, or too much? i know its how long is a piece of string but there are 4 people in the house, 2 are under 9 so only showering once or twice a week and then 2 adults showering daily.



  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    well it depends on a number of factors e.g. how many litres is your tank, how long do the adults take in the shower etc.

    the best way to find out is to record what happens on a daily basis and judge over lets say a two week period. the data should inform whether you need to reduce or extend the durations the HP kicks in. it might take a few goes before you're happy with the output from the HP.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 19,672 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    yes you are right,

    what happens say if i have it set to hear water from 6pm to 8pm, does it just heat it to 48.5 degrees or whatever its set at and then stop once it reaches temp?



  • Registered Users Posts: 769 ✭✭✭ColemanY2K


    I'd imagine so although the user guide should be able to tell you that. the thing is though is if the tank doesn't reach the desired temperature in that timescale will the HP cut off? highly unlikely not to reach that temp in two hours but lets say you change it to 1 hour.

    🌞 7.79kWp PV System. Comprised of 4.92kWp Tilting Ground Mount + 2.87kWp @ 27°, azimuth 180°, West Waterford 🌞



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,070 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    What size is your tank?

    For now, I would stick with the 4-7am and disable the 6-8pm.

    What is probably happening now is that you are really doing all your hot water heating during the 6-8pm period which defeats the purpose.... the reason being is that day 1 you heat the water from 4-7am and take a shower at 8am, the water temp drops so now at 6pm it heats it again and now that hot water sits there until 8am the following day so on day 2 the 4-7am has nothing (or very little) to do and you take your 8am shower and the process repeats (heats water again at 6pm as you used it at 8am)... making sense?

    Its all down to the size of your tank and whether it has enough capacity to take your normal daily load from one heating session (4-7am). There's really only one way to find that out and that's disable the 6-8pm schedule and see if the wife complains! 😉


    As a reference, I have a 300l tank. It heats exclusively at night rate and we rarely run out of hot water. Happens occasionally if someone takes a long shower or there is extra hot water used at the sink or something like that. House of 5, so lots of water being used with power showers.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 19,672 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    seems a good plan ill try that! no idea what size the tank is, will see if i can find out.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,783 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Keep reducing it until you get complaints!

    Then you will know when you've reached the limit,



  • Registered Users Posts: 409 ✭✭Dozz


    https://youtu.be/AXamAjE0juw?si=UBfmhYDjiEhCZJ-1



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,783 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Give us a tldw or an overview, or your opinion.. or even a title!



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭randombar


    What are peoples advice on wall vs ground mount for a heat pump?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Mine is fairly sizeable so I doubt anyone involved would have fancied wall mounting it.

    Plan to wall mount a smaller air to air unit for AC above it though.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,783 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Urban plumbers just touched on that in his last video, usually wall mounts if in an alleyway to avoid micro climating



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,361 ✭✭✭randombar


    Was watching that all right, need to change footpaths outside and trying to line up everything. i.e. don't want to put unit down on footpath that needs to be ripped out.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,723 ✭✭✭podge3


    Heatgeeks seem to think alley ways are less of a problem:https://youtu.be/L5O2BSFqWwY?si=-QKnC6OlIs1lgKd_



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,702 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    What sort of money have people paid for larger pumps including labour? Ideally looking for some ground source replacement comparison

    😎



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