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Ford Transit conversion to camper MKII

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Comments

  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Yeah can be expensive that's why I buy everything high end and used. It's doable with patience. Wanna see the truck system? I put it in my house as a backup until I get around to it.

    bGEks0p.jpg

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    I generally don't entertain fitment requests less that €5k because I'm not interested in standard or working with an inherited mess. I just do liveaboards 200A design loads or higher.

    300W a day for that fridge (about 8-10 times more efficient than what you have) exactly like I said 100W of solar will power that. It's the same efficiency as a danfoss 12v. A little higher power consumption because you'll have to run an inverter with it. It'll run for less if you insulate it and vent the condensor.

    There's not much wrong with your old one €50 might fix it but then you'll have to live with it afterwards.

    As I say watch the used market between here an Christmas you can pick up MS Sunsaver MPPTs for ~€80, Studer inverters sometimes €150. Either of those will run continuous for over a decade. I'd buy a good used product over a mediocre new one every day of the week.

    Actually this is a handy resource.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    There's two more 200Ah hiding under the bench.

    Master distro here...

    5NirzdC.jpg

    ...it'll evolve I'll make the final install pretty. All rough and ready at the minute.

    I wasn't joking I am grid tieing it to my house. The truck is a backup and a spare solar array.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Yeah can be expensive that's why I buy everything high end and used. It's doable with patience. Wanna see the truck system? I put it in my house as a backup until I get around to it.

    ...


    300W a day for that fridge (about 8-10 times more efficient than what you have) exactly like I said 100W of solar will power that. It's the same efficiency as a danfoss 12v. A little higher power consumption because you'll have to run an inverter with it. It'll run for less if you insulate it and vent the condensor.

    There's not much wrong with your old one €50 might fix it but then you'll have to live with it afterwards.

    So this is where I am at the minute.

    I took it as a given that I could essentially copy / paste from the old van into the new one, noting that in the old van there was 240 available only on shore power.
    Technology has moved on considerably since then, and now it seems the norm to go with an inverter / shore power with a contactor / switcher to deliver permanent 240v to the van, so I'm going to go with that as an install at the least.

    Jury is still out on if my van has a smart alternator or not. I still need to get it re-conditioned so I'll find out when that's done.

    The fridge I have is old, and the stat is gone on it I believe so doesn't work on 240. This of course can be repaired and isn't overly expensive but taking on what Liamalot is saying on board I'm giving serious consideration to not re-using it.
    I mentioned the under-counter fridge because I happen to be able to acquire one for free. It would also mean that it's considerably larger than the 3 way, larger freezer, doesn't run on gas and doesn't need two air vents and an exhaust flu fitted to the van. Also don't have the hassle of needing 12v.

    Kitchen would need a bit of re-work too (thats if I plan to re-use the kitchen unit).

    We have an oven with the van, but I can't recall ever actually using it previously, so I'm not sold on keeping it if there's a preference to put something else in, like a larger fridge.



    I'm not too fussed with solar atm, but if I can future proof and do it at a later date then I'm good with it. I don't envisage selling this van in the future.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Technology has moved on considerably since then,


    All my hardware is at least a decade old/on the market


    and now it seems the norm to go with an inverter / shore power with a contactor / switcher to deliver permanent 240v to the van, so I'm going to go with that as an install at the least.


    This feature is built into higher end inverters.


    Jury is still out on if my van has a smart alternator or not. I still need to get it re-conditioned so I'll find out when that's done.


    I'm not 100% but I think a smartbank might still work even if it is. Not ideal though.




    doesn't need two air vents and an exhaust flu fitted to the van.


    The colder you keep the condensor the more efficient it will be. At least add some internal vents and maybe some thermostatically controlled fans.



    I'm not too fussed with solar atm, but if I can future proof and do it at a later date then I'm good with it. I don't envisage selling this van in the future.


    2 x 4mm² solar flex will cover you for this.
    I'd fit solar before mains. It'll make you battery immortal and stop you paying €25 to buy €0.16 of lecky into the battery from a campsite while touring.
    Alternators are great for brute force power but appalling at battery maintenance.

    I don't have much confidence in mains chargers to do the job either having tested quite a lot of them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I appear to be shit outta luck when it comes to re-using my 24v eberspacher heater. I cannot get it to fire.

    I've spent a good few hours tinkering with this and to no avail. The display isn't working correctly so I can't even see what fault codes their might be, or even adjust the temperature in it or anything.

    It starts and runs, pulses the pump a few times and the fan just continues to spin. There is diesel in it, and the pump is pulling it so I'm at a loss.

    As it stands, it's difficult to use with a dodgy display, and I need to get a silencer and diesel tank for it.

    I think I'll give up the ghost and spring for a new one. Can get them reasonable enough from china.

    IMG-20201011-151243.jpg


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  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    1200px-Hooded_vulture_%28Necrosyrtes_monachus%29.jpg

    How dodgey is the display? Is it a DL1?
    If you fancy a bittov horse trading I have a plumbed in eber but not the controls for it. 24V.
    If it's serviceable and you want to part with the gubbins I could trade you a 12A PWM solar charge controller with a display or something of equivalent value for the controls and gubbins.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I get the turkey reference alright... but I've seen them installed and they're perfectly fine for what I need, plus it comes with all the kit I would need to install it cleanly - no messing with dodgy diesel tanks or pluming, proper silencer and so on. It has to be easy to use, since it won't be just me that's using it too.

    Yes, it's an eber D1L, so I've no doubt it's serviceable.

    It came from a 4 series Scania so it runs on 24V, and has the Scania controller as you can see in the image.

    If you look closely at the image, you can see what's wrong with it, Some of the bits light up, some others do faintly, and some are always on - you can see the display flashing in the way it should when you switch it to "heat" but you can't make out the word it's showing because either more or less of the lcd's are on.
    I believe it's just a failing LCD or a dry joint possibly. While I can do many things, electronics (inc diagnosis), welding & bodywork are not some of them.

    When it was installed initially the lcd was working, and the heater was running correctly. My brother took the fuel tank out of it before they went to Poland for the euro's so it's not been ran since.

    I'd be interested in trading yes. What sort of PWM solar charge controller have you in mind?


    IMG-20201011-192921.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    I get the turkey reference alright...


    :pac: It's a vulture!


    Before you chuck it have you checked is the filter clogged? Glow plug running?


    I've a ProStar 12M Gen. 1 on offer.
    Used Eber controls go for about £50 so if you're chucking them I'll recycle them for you. If they're serviceable then you're welcome to anything in my spares pile of equal value. If it's dodo I'll send you postage charges or return the bits to you whichever you prefer.



    I can pm you some pics of what I have in that price range.


    LCDs are easy swap, the hardest part is finding the right replacement.


    To be honest I'd fix the one you have over getting a Chinese one and get a 12v -> 24V converter. Tristan sent me a number for a guru..I'll dig it out and PM you.


    I liked your relay circuit on the Mk-I but there's easier & neater ways to do it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    :pac: It's a vulture!
    Yeah, I've shown myself up there alright.

    Before you chuck it have you checked is the filter clogged? Glow plug running?
    There's no inline fuel filter, but no, I've not checked the glow plug. There is diesel at the end of the fuel line going to the heater, but the heater doesn't run through the start cycle where it pulses the pump consistently to try to fire. I've pulsed the pump manually to bleed the line, and the fuel is there. That particular Scania controller was always a shitty design

    The only thing I have gotten in a while was a puff of smoke out of the fuel line when I was checking if fuel was getting in.....
    It doesn't display any of the common symptoms that I've seen on common issues and since I can't see the fault code........

    I've a ProStar 12M Gen. 1 on offer.
    Used Eber controls go for about £50 so if you're chucking them I'll recycle them for you. If they're serviceable then you're welcome to anything in my spares pile of equal value. If it's dodo I'll send you postage charges or return the bits to you whichever you prefer.



    I can pm you some pics of what I have in that price range.

    Please do. If you have anything of else I may be interested, please include them. I'd rather spend my money locally if I could.


    LCDs are easy swap, the hardest part is finding the right replacement.


    To be honest I'd fix the one you have over getting a Chinese one and get a 12v -> 24V converter. Tristan sent me a number for a guru..I'll dig it out and PM you.


    I liked your relay circuit on the Mk-I but there's easier & neater ways to do it.

    I have a 12 -> 24V setup transformer already and it's doing the job, since I had intended to re-use this one. The circuit relay was cool at the time too, but it was a mess of wiring along with the loom that was inside.

    Being pragmatic about it, I'd be spending around £30 to get a decent fuel tank and a silencer for this one (past experience says yes I need one) and lets just say another £50 on a replacement controller. At this point there'd only be a score in the difference of the price of a chinese job, and my one may still not be working. It's hard to justify the expense when it's not working as it is. Given this conversation, I may have another stab tomorrow and check if the glow plug is working / getting hot...


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    and get a 12v -> 24V converter....

    I liked your relay circuit on the Mk-I but there's easier & neater ways to do it.


    I just noticed...You already have one in the setup, am I correct?


    Is it strong enough to power the unit. There's a fair bittov inrush on those yolks. Was that setup working before? Whats the boost reg rated output?

    Try two batteries instead; real 24v.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I just noticed...You already have one in the setup, am I correct?


    Is it strong enough to power the unit. There's a fair bittov inrush on those yolks. Was that setup working before? Whats the boost reg rated output?

    Try two batteries instead; real 24v.

    Yeah, I got a traffo on fleabay. It's strong enough yes. I got a 20A specifically because of this. I had to check my old build because I had it written down in that thread. It uses 11.8A on startup.

    It did run once and pulse the pump correctly the first time i tried it, but alas it wasn't drawing fuel at that time.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    I've not checked the glow plug.


    The old school way is to force feed it 24v and see if there's a spark when you marmalade the wire onto it.


    I take them out and stick jump leads on 'em. if they're not red in <7 seconds get a new one.


    There is diesel at the end of the fuel line going to the heater, but the heater doesn't run through the start cycle where it pulses the pump consistently to try to fire.


    Try two batteries, running a pump, a fan, a glow plug and a heater might be to much for that converter jobber.

    Scania controller was always a shitty design


    Are you negotiating me down? :pac:





    Please do. If you have anything of else I may be interested, please include them. I'd rather spend my money locally if I could.


    Grand I'll see what's in the treasure horde at the mo and send you some pics tomorrow.
    I'm a bit cleaned out at the mo...this Covid is great for business. :o





    The circuit relay was cool at the time too, but it was a mess of wiring along with the loom that was inside.


    I've almost copied it many a time...then I usually came to the same conclusion.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Mr T, What exactly do you get up to that you're not telling us about?

    I just popped over to your public profile and 10/11 of your last visitors were Mods! I think the only odd one out used to be a Mod....

    Whatever it is I want a 15% stake!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Mr T, What exactly do you get up to that you're not telling us about?

    I just popped over to your public profile and 10/11 of your last visitors were Mods! I think the only odd one out used to be a Mod....

    Whatever it is I want a 15% stake!

    That, or I'm coming to the modulator attention for all the wrong reasons... :pac:


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    If I was a betting man I'd say Buford T. Justice XIX was attempting to strongarm a name change.

    images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcSDgCRKXk9XV8DonN0e7SNi1ArTDyRTITT24g&usqp=CAU

    I've seen him about and thought you got promoted.

    Almost as confusing as seeing my doppleganger commenting in Colm_mcm's thread...that freaked the feck outtov me for half a minute!

    529556.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    If I was a betting man I'd say Buford T. Justice XIX was attempting to strongarm a name change.

    They say power corrupts........ :pac:


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Yurp

    dnbB4LP.jpg



    Thing about moderating...if you touch it, it dies.

    The knack is a hands off approach imho.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,958 ✭✭✭spaceHopper


    I'd beef up the wire between the 12 to 24 step up. You'll lose more voltage than you think and heater controllers can be picky


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Second that....I had thought it. It might be current limiting too.
    Use two batteries and at least 4mm².

    Process of elimination. Those Ebers are pretty reliable...they do break nowhere as frequent as the Chinese specials tho.

    If it works reintroduce the boost reg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Van still getting welded - Should be back this week

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Picked up the van today from the welder. If I'm perfectly honest, I wasn't entirely happy with the finish of it, but he did say he wasn't a panel beater, he was a welder. My expectations could've been way off instead which is my own fault.

    I got the pillar replaced in the back, there was a crack in the door that was welded, the rust hole was cut out and replaced with new steel & the security locks that weren't used were covered up and welded over.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    So I took to it again with the sander and polyfilla P38 using my vast experience.

    I sanded it down and went over it twice with some polyfilla P38 and sanded it again.

    I asked on the motors forum and the suggestion was to use zinc primer and to heat it before I applied it. So I headed the rattle-can before I pained it and it made a huge difference to the application. I had the heat gun with me today so was able to speed the drying process up too. Few coats of black topcoat to finish the job. The yellow and black looks nice. Think that'll be the color scheme for the van

    IMG-20201025-171402.jpg

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    The bottom of the two rear doors are fairly bent. Was chatting to the welder and he suggested cutting these panels out and replacing them. The donor doors I have look to be straight at the bottom so that may be a job for the future


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Whilst I was literally waiting on paint to dry, I made a start on the floor of the van. As a base layer I'm putting down 12mm shuttering ply which will be covered with a more finished floor thereafter.

    I cut up some tin and used some silicone to cover the holes in the floor. I realise Silicon isn't suitable for this job, but it was purely to hold it in place while I was putting down the underlay. The idea of this is to prevent the occasional splash of water coming in when the van is on the road.

    IMG-20201025-154304.jpg

    IMG-20201025-154324.jpg

    I used some bog standard spay adhesive to help stick this stuff down. It's 5mm flooring underlay that happened to be lying around from something else.. Ran out of time, but next will be fitting the floor and the windows.

    IMG-20201025-164152.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Also, to give Liam something to scoff at.. err review I took out the old charger from the old bus. Its a logic 1 5A charger. I'm sure it still works and I don't see any issue with getting it to work in this build

    IMG-20201025-171058.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    but he did say he wasn't a panel beater, he was a welder.


    Ya get what ya pay for. I dunno what yer complaining about, it's watertight innit?


    So I took to it again with the sander and the polyfilla using my vast experience.

    I sanded it down and went over it twice with some polyfilla and sanded it again.


    I really don't recommend that. It's open cell, water [& paint] absorbant. Asking for the same problem all over again. P40, or thickened epoxy is the job.
    Harder to work but that's what angle grinders are for

    Also, to give Liam something to scoff at.. err review I took out the old charger from the old bus. Its a logic 1 5A charger.



    Jaysus....ferro-resonant maintainer..:rolleyes:..er yeah...muck.
    Throw a battery at it every year jobber.


    You know my batteries live for decades? Just saying!
    I'll send you a link to something decent when it pops up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I really don't recommend that. It's open cell, water [& paint] absorbant. Asking for the same problem all over again. P40, or thickened epoxy is the job.
    Harder to work but that's what angle grinders are for

    I don't know why I said polyfilla - Must've been a brain fart - God imagine using something for an interior of a house on bodywork :eek:. I used P38 is what I meant to say.

    And yes, it's watertight, dent is gone and the rust is stopped so I'm happy.
    You know my batteries live for decades? Just saying!
    I'll send you a link to something decent when it pops up.
    Cheers.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    P38 is what I understood you to mean. It'll absorb water soon as the paint cracks. If you saw what I did to mine with that stuff you wouldn't.
    P40; variable speed angle grinder and scotchbrite flappy discs for polishing metal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    Started on the base floor. Turns out I didn't have enough 12mm sheets of ply so I'll need another one to finish the job.

    IMG-20201101-162446.jpg

    IMG-20201101-162449.jpg

    Also wrapped the wheel arch to get a bit of insulation for it.

    IMG-20201101-163553.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    I took that felt cover off the storage area over the drivers cab and it's quite large.

    I toyed with the idea of removing the shelf altogether to get a bit more space and to stop nutting myself off it but I figured I'd lose too much storage that way. Think I'l keep it.

    IMG-20201101-161636.jpg

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  • Registered Users Posts: 73,379 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    That’s a fine size of a shelf.


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