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Tech Support for Aritech Alarm systems

1235716

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 11,637 ✭✭✭✭altor


    EddieN wrote: »
    Hello Altor, Yes, output 5 Int Bell is negative and output 6 Ext Bell is negative.

    If it is not working then defaulting the panel is the only option. When you default the panel, go into the zones and set the gross and pulse on the zones, I would not program any names or other settings till you can see if it is the control panel not working. Set the alarm and see if it sets off the bells by activating the window sensors again. The default user is 1122, default engineer is 1278. If it does not work there is likely an issue with the panel. An upgrade of the control panel would be the best option in this case as you can still use all the sensors you have installed with a new control panel.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 EddieN


    Not entirely clear how to default the panel. I could not find anything in the Engineers menu. Is this done by a jumper in the panel and are there any steps I need to take before/after?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,637 ✭✭✭✭altor


    EddieN wrote: »
    Not entirely clear how to default the panel. I could not find anything in the Engineers menu. Is this done by a jumper in the panel and are there any steps I need to take before/after?

    If you go into engineering, then into miscellaneous, you load the factory defaults. Another option is to remove the mains and battery, take off the JP1 link on the board, and power back up the system with it removed. This option will only work if engineer lock is not on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 EddieN


    Ok, I managed to set factory defaults by removing the JP1 ( had to also disconnect battery). And now it is working properly. Alarm goes off when window is opened. The only thing that I need to figure out is how to get the second keypad working. I have 2 keypads, one at the front of the house and the other at the back. The second keypad is now displaying "CS350 V3.3" and does not respond to any key strokes. Any idea how to activate this again? Thanks for your help!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,637 ✭✭✭✭altor


    EddieN wrote: »
    Ok, I managed to set factory defaults by removing the JP1 ( had to also disconnect battery). And now it is working properly. Alarm goes off when window is opened. The only thing that I need to figure out is how to get the second keypad working. I have 2 keypads, one at the front of the house and the other at the back. The second keypad is now displaying "CS350 V3.3" and does not respond to any key strokes. Any idea how to activate this again? Thanks for your help!

    Thats good to hear it is working now. If you go into the outputs/remotes menu, all you have to do is add remote.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 EddieN


    Fantastic, all working now. Thanks for your help today. If you have an engineers manual would be grateful.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,637 ✭✭✭✭altor


    EddieN wrote: »
    Fantastic, all working now. Thanks for your help today. If you have an engineers manual would be grateful.

    Your welcome, always happy to help :D

    I sent you a P.M regarding the manual.


  • Registered Users Posts: 114 ✭✭your desired user name


    Hi, Just moved into a house with aritech cs 350.
    The alarm code set the alarm without any access to the menu.
    I have managed to allow access to the menu with the eng code 1278 but I still cant inhibit a zone.
    I see from previous posts that I must sign in in eng code and enable IN.
    Could anyone point me in the right direction for a eng manual or tell me how to go about this.
    Thanks


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Go into engineer mode & arrow down to zones.
    Press the correct key
    Arrow down to zone Attributes & press the correct key .
    Check if all Alarm zones have the IN attribute beside the zone number.
    Ill PM you the manual as well. Come back & let me know how you get on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,637 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Hi, Just moved into a house with aritech cs 350.
    The alarm code set the alarm without any access to the menu.
    I have managed to allow access to the menu with the eng code 1278 but I still cant inhibit a zone.
    I see from previous posts that I must sign in in eng code and enable IN.
    Could anyone point me in the right direction for a eng manual or tell me how to go about this.
    Thanks

    Press 0, enter your user code, normal set, open zone, arrow up, inhibit zone, put in zone number you want to inhibit.

    The user manual explains it more than the engineer manual, here is a link.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 114 ✭✭your desired user name


    Thank you both for the help


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,637 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Thank you both for the help

    Your welcome, I hope it worked for you.

    Any other problems let us know :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,701 ✭✭✭dar31


    outside sound going off for the last hour. control panel says low battery, cant enter code or eng code
    afraid if i open box to disconect battery it will set off inside sound bomb
    and wake the kids
    any ideas


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,058 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    Sounds like the battery is pulling down the voltage at the panel and causing all sorts of problems.
    Sounds like you will have to disconnect the battery to solve this.
    I would turn off the power, remove battery and power it back up
    Failing that call out a professional


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 pmurphy7


    I have the Aritech CS350. Three problems:

    1. Low battery was displaying on the controller.
    2. Cabinet Tamper switch activated as I opened the cabinet to get the model of battery to buy. The tamper appears ton be a plastic box sat against a spring on the circuit board.
    3. Alarm reports bedroom zones as open and alarm is activated intermittently although the windows are closed. Will the instruction, Press 0, enter your user code, normal set, open zone, arrow up, inhibit zone, put in zone number you want to inhibit work ?
    4. I cannot determine which circuit from the main fuse box is powering the cabinet as the fuse box isn't labelled. Is there a particular amp fuse it requires as I have a temperamental electric pump for the shower that breaks when powered down even when isolated locally. Or can it be safely isolated locally within the cabinet via a fuse ?
    5. The codes for engineering access are denied. The alarm was installed by Prestbury Security in Dublin.

    Therefore I need to replace the battery (eurosales), deactivate the tamper and fix the open zones - whats the best course of action and is it do-able with no real electrical/ alarm knowledge. I need a plan as the wife isn't impressed to date .... there a short time window for me to fix it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,058 ✭✭✭Jnealon


    Call in a professional, he/she will sort this out for you while are scratching your head thinking about it, no offence


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    First things first. You need to turn of the mains power to the panel first. Turn off the trip switches one by one. It will normally be on a light circuit.
    Replace the battery with the same as what's there. Ensuring to observe polarity. Red + Black or blue - .
    After you do that post up what the zone error is and we will help you from there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,701 ✭✭✭dar31


    Jnealon wrote: »
    Sounds like the battery is pulling down the voltage at the panel and causing all sorts of problems.
    Sounds like you will have to disconnect the battery to solve this.
    I would turn off the power, remove battery and power it back up
    Failing that call out a professional

    thanks
    go fed up listening to it just before 7, didnt matter the if kids got woken up.

    luckly we'd labeled the trip for the alarm, stoped straight away then, there was nt a drop of power left in the battery to sound the internal sounder.

    new battery in it now, and working grand.
    bit of a run around to put up trip switch, connect battery, and get code entered to stop sounders.

    in case anyone's wondering, new battery €15


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 pmurphy7


    cheers, I will give it a go on the weekend.
    Trip switches ? Are these on the circuit board ?
    Without a multimeter when will I know the power is down on the cabinet i.e.should the controller LCD display go off, as to date I have flipped must of the socket / lighting circuits and this display has remained powered up. I am reluctant to turn off the power to the hot water pump/ CH controller as the pump board/ transducer (?) tends to break even when isolated locally and its 140 euro for a replacement.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    The trip switches are on your electrical consumer unit.
    When the power to the alarm is turned off if will show on the keypad after a minute.
    As I said more than likely on a light circuit. Try the 10 amp and lower rater trips first.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23 pmurphy7


    cheers I will give it a go and get back to you. Thanks again. Pardon my ignorance, but these electrical things are easily broken and despite being small things they all seem to cost a fair bit so I will take things slowly.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    No problem we're here to help. Lets see what's what before rushing you off to call in the professionals. Oh I forgot,The installers on here are professionals :
    We'll get you sorted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 alliv


    hi guy,s first post. thanks in advance. i have a cs350 alarm pannel. last 2 nights it has being going off for no reason. first night it said sitting / living room. second night it said the same but i noticed it went off when i turned on the lights in the hall or the bedroom. it only does this when its set.any ideas? i thought battery but got a friends battery ond no difference.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    There is a faulty sensor or contact on that zone.Make sure there is nothing else on that zone. If its your standard lounge window with one or 2 openings I would just replace both. If theres more involved do you have access to a multi meter?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    It's a faulty sensor on a zone somewhere, not the battery. Either get an engineer out or find it and replace if yourself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 alliv


    KoolKid wrote: »
    There is a faulty sensor or contact on that zone.Make sure there is nothing else on that zone. If its your standard lounge window with one or 2 openings I would just replace both. If theres more involved do you have access to a multi meter?
    thanks for the quick reply. are we talking shock sensor? or window opening contacts? i have a multimeter but have to get a battery for it and learn how to use it. lol


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 alliv


    It's a faulty sensor on a zone somewhere, not the battery. Either get an engineer out or find it and replace if yourself.

    thanks for the info ,


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    alliv wrote: »
    are we talking shock sensor? or window opening contacts?
    Could be either or all.
    How old is the system?


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 alliv


    ok on the zone there is 7 shock and 7 contacts. is there a way of knowing which one is gone as replacing all of them might cost a bit. where would i get theese parts reasonable? thanks again


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Big Lounge?If you have a multi meter you can:

    Disconnect the zone from the panel & remove any end of line resistors,
    Set you meter to continuity and connect the pair to the 2 meter leads.
    on a lenght of cable long enough to reach all your windows on that zone.
    Make a note of the reading in ohms. One by one tape evey sensor & open and close every contact. After a tap or an open close the resistence should return to the same value. If it does not disconnect that device , close of the pair wired into it & move on. Replace any that you had to close off.


This discussion has been closed.
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