If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)

Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Hi all,
Vanilla are planning an update to the site on April 24th (next Wednesday). It is a major PHP8 update which is expected to boost performance across the site. The site will be down from 7pm and it is expected to take about an hour to complete. We appreciate your patience during the update.
Thanks all.

Camper Electrics

tomskimc · 2016-12-19 23:56:15

Hi all, I'm in the design stage of a campervan conversion and just starting to plan electrics. I've pretty much finalized what I need to include and I plan to mostly wild camp so will be dependent on alternator and solar charging. 240 hookup isn't a must but figuring I'd include so all bases are covered. So, now I'm…

Options

Comments

Options
#32 06-10-2017 10:20am
[Deleted User]
Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭

Join Date: -

Posts: 5238

Split Charging is madness. Keep it simple, works better.
Obvious choice when you look at it.
You can have one entire alternator that works right for the same invested in half an existing one that will never be as good.

0
Options
#33 06-10-2017 12:53pm
autumnalcore

Registered Users Posts: 825 ✭✭✭

Join Date: September 2017

Posts: 796

Jaden wrote: »

Very Seriously considering getting a 2nd alternator fitted, along with a 2nd Leisure battery.

Thought it was madness when I first heard the idea, but I'm coming around to it.

Diesel ducato isn't as simple as other vehicles, theres very little room, it has a skinny belt and the water pump runs on the alternator belt so you can't simply crank up the tension. If you don't have air con the best bet would be to fit the aircon crank pulley and tensioner and fit the second alternator at the front of the engine where the airconditioning would be, if you do have air conditioning you'd be very hard pressed to find the space.

0
Options
#34 06-10-2017 3:04pm
Jaden

Registered Users Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭

Join Date: February 1998

Posts: 2268

autumnalcore wrote: »

Diesel ducato isn't as simple as other vehicles, theres very little room, it has a skinny belt and the water pump runs on the alternator belt so you can't simply crank up the tension. If you don't have air con the best bet would be to fit the aircon crank pulley and tensioner and fit the second alternator at the front of the engine where the airconditioning would be, if you do have air conditioning you'd be very hard pressed to find the space.

Oddly, that had occurred to me. Turns out there is an upside to having no aircon. My mechanic is gonna LOVE me when I explain what I want to him...

0
Options
#35 06-10-2017 4:41pm
[Deleted User]
Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭

Join Date: -

Posts: 5238

Perfect opportunity go 24v & cash in on cheaper 60 cell solar panels. Half all cable sizes or double distance.

0
Options
#36 06-10-2017 5:42pm
autumnalcore

Registered Users Posts: 825 ✭✭✭

Join Date: September 2017

Posts: 796

Jaden wrote: »

Oddly, that had occurred to me. Turns out there is an upside to having no aircon. My mechanic is gonna LOVE me when I explain what I want to him...

Had a look at Fiats prices, not really economical to use original tensioner and brackets unless you find a scrapper as there are several cast pieces that cost several hundred euro.

You can get new febi AC crank pulley for about €50. I would go old fashioned with no tensioner.

This type of turn buckle tensioner should make life a bit easier.

0
Advertisement
Options
#37 10-10-2017 12:28am
[Deleted User]
Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭

Join Date: -

Posts: 5238

My preference would be for a rigid tensioner too. You can change pulleys on other accessories, or the crank, as double pulleys to drive new accessories. Swap mechanical accessories for electric possibly, to free real estate,, eg, electric coolant pumps, electric rad. fan., electric power steering. Plentya more lecky!
The most important thing is to get the alignment true. Minimise axial displacement on the belt as much as possible.

I wouldn't parallel (dis)charge with Ford regen braking Euro 6 & 7s jobs though. In fact with those systems basic split charge doesn't work at all, another dumb alternator would be the best foot forward I think.
I'd probably shy away from any three wire alternator.

As a rule of thumb if you need air con. then you won't need a second alternator because your climate will give you adequate solar input year round.
You could always just sacrifice the power steering.

To make the most of a dual alternator system I'd shift the engine running baseload onto the vehicle alternator to remove load and voltage sag on the service battery.
Meaning transfer refrigeration, water heaters & space heaters onto the vehicle alternator and then you are guaranteed maximum service battery charge. The difference in a good alternator charge circuit and a normal alternator charge circuit in power output is tenfold.
Good is appropriately gauged and short cable with accurate sense and minimun running load.

Variable Rate Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley Spring.
Rubber tube shrouded steel spring. A mite stretched.

Heres my new OE fan belt tensioner spring beside my original 23 year old recently retired veteran.
Phase One Complete! No more belt squeak.
Whoop! That was worth taking a radiator out for!

Phase 2: smaller alternator pulley
Phase 3: mmmMore Powah!!

0
Options
#38 23-10-2017 9:40pm
peasant

Registered Users Posts: 17,819 ✭✭✭✭

Join Date: February 2005

Posts: 16601

question about caravan electrics (fridge connection) moved to new thread http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057800968#

0
Options
#39 31-07-2018 10:20pm
tomskimc

Registered Users Posts: 44 ✭

Join Date: January 2007

Posts: 32

Ok back here after spending a lot of time doing the fit out and still plenty to do. I'm looking at this as a system for power management http://www.simplysplitcharge.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=257_258&product_id=1028 to manage alternator & solar (2 x 150w) supply. I already have a Tristar ts45 controller but wondering if I can just use the ctek system to control all and leave the Tristar out.

Thanks for any advice,
Tom

0
Options
#40 01-08-2018 12:14am
[Deleted User]
Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭

Join Date: -

Posts: 5238

tomskimc wrote: »

I already have a Tristar ts45 controller but wondering if I can just use the ctek system to control all and leave the Tristar out.

Sure. Why not!
I'd test them both and keep the best.
I know which I'd back.

I'd love to know your findings though.

0
Options
#41 13-05-2019 11:44pm
tomskimc

Registered Users Posts: 44 ✭

Join Date: January 2007

Posts: 32

Me again! Having a problem with the Tristar TS45. Initial test - when I open the circuit from the battery I'm getting a high voltage disconnect alert (red and green led's flashing). Not sure whats causing this. May be my din setup below.

The setup is 4 x trojan t105 6v wired as 2 x 12v. I have these running to a bus. Tristar running into bus along with shore charging unit (not connected to shore). Solar panels and alternator isolated.

I've the din's set up as follows:

1 - charging
2 & 3 - 12v
4, 5 & 6 - PWM 14.4v (not sure about this one)
7 - auto equalization
8 - PWM on

Photos of setup
https://www.amazon.com/photos/groups/share/Dn0s08KzSsCu4qyyC7vPlw.wiUC5X5CXF8lx-JArBBDKM

Tristar manual
https://2n1s7w3qw84d2ysnx3ia2bct-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/TS.IOM_.Operators_Manual.04.EN_1.pdf

Looking for any advice.

Cheers,
Tom

0
Advertisement
Options
#42 14-05-2019 7:51pm
tomskimc

Registered Users Posts: 44 ✭

Join Date: January 2007

Posts: 32

Hi all,
Have another question about wiring. Have kitchen unit taps (hot/cold) and shower/toilet taps (hot/cold), each with micro switches. Also have an external hot/cold shower supply, no micro switches. Wondering how these need to be wired back to the pump. Micro switches back to relay to pump? External shower on a separate on/off switch back to pump?

Any guidance on wiring and parts needed would be great.

Cheers,
Tom

0
Options
#43 14-05-2019 8:42pm
autumnalcore

Registered Users Posts: 825 ✭✭✭

Join Date: September 2017

Posts: 796

tomskimc wrote: »

when I open the circuit from the battery I'm getting a high voltage disconnect alert (red and green led's flashing)

With Tristar and generally with any regulator always disconnect the source before the load, another brand might have gone up in smoke.

0
Options
#44 16-05-2019 10:34am
[Deleted User]
Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭

Join Date: -

Posts: 5238

Use the PV disconnect first off, last on.

Noice work.
Needs cable stress relief.
P clips.

Screw through cable tie mounts

Compression Glands on that beautiful DC disconnect.

The TS takes M36 depending on which size knockout you are using.

Fuse the sense wires. Give the TS sense wires.

Insulate the terminals with cable boots.

Armour the unfused battery interlinking cables.

tomskimc wrote: »

Micro switches back to relay to pump?

Yes in series with the relay coil positive or ground.

tomskimc wrote: »

External shower on a separate on/off switch back to pump?

Exactly. DC rated Switch.

tomskimc wrote: »

Any guidance on wiring and parts needed would be great.

I like DIN rail they're usually certified.
Automotive products are over-rated.
Either works for your application.

Cable, crimp terminals, cable stress relief, crimper and switches what else do you need?

If you are using cable ties get a flush cutter say goodbye to stabby tie ends!

Battery restraint?

0